NMBROOK

Hi Mates,
 
Minor update. Working with some sections of the sails has proven to be – well not so much fun (for me)– venting here Hmmm---
 
I got through the boltropes – pleasant enough. Then came the need to add various cringles. Now those are really hard for me. So far the least enjoyable part of this build.
 
I am also not satisfied with the results. And  knowing that a reinforcement canvas wrap should also be included around each cringle has annoyed me.
 
Tried several glues on sailcloth bits and could not find a glue that “disappeared”. Also these cloth rectangles are to be sewed as well – just not happening.
 
I  re-did the martnets after buying some triangular deadeyes from WoodenModelShipKit (one of the vendors that advertises here). After fiddling around several times finally discovered how to lace without lines crossing over each other. Happy with the results.
 
So this area (sail details) is slowing me some.
 
Several of the other sails will not need so much extra work – and it will all be fun again (;-)

Hi Mates,
Well sails are all done. Now for attaching them to the yards, (adding all needed blocks etc.)

 
Here comes more learning. How to actually attach them. Anderson has this. I also looked at the 1/10th and each rope is separate and unto themselves with each having separate knots.
 

 
Then there is the Tack knot.

 
 
I did find this online
 

 
Along with this link
 
http://www.survivalworld.com/knots/manrope-knot.html#.WWJu_tPyuV4
 
That’s about it for now – glad that I went for the sails – very satisfied (well they are not installed ha ha)
 
Cheers,

Hi Mates,
 
Minor update–working on finishing up the first sail (lower main)
 
Then noticed (first pic of 1/10th) that a shoe block is used where I had already laced two deadeyes with a single block in-between.
PS: I know that you know where that is, just having fun adding red circles here and there……
 
Looked at Syren, and elsewhere could not find this type of block – so trying to make some. Prob. too much time spent here – may just use the single block instead. A work in progress ----======================
PS2: Joachim thanks for the post. I remember that extra extension. I saw it when I bought the lathe, but passed on it. I looked again at Proxxon and elsewhere no longer seems to be available (even eBay did not have one)
 
Cheers,

 

Hi Mates,
 
I had mentioned that I slightly tweak Chuck’s (Syren) already super excellent blocks. This how I do it. The changes are very subtle, but for me make it worth it.
 
1) enlarge the pre-drilled holes (I’m sure most of you already do this anyway)
 
2) using the same drill bit I now angle it to “round out” and deepen the pulley look further.

 
Using a file I add grooves to the upper and lower edges

 
Using a small sanding block I sand the four side edges a bit inward.

 
Last bit I just started “now” after going to Chuck’s site to order more rope I saw his new blocks that included the four pins that attach the two block sides together. Hmmm – that looked so great.
 
Granted his blocks are larger but nonetheless wanted to add that look as well.
 
Using a tiny drill bit just drilled eight holes.

 
Here are some comparisons. AGAIN absolutely NOT implying anything at all missing regarding Chuck’s super perfect blocks down to the smallest scale.

 
 
This pic is a perfect example of how amazing his super small blocks actually are without any of my obsessive tweaks (;-)

 
PS: whatever these are called I have to pull them all off. Again a novice with rigging when I made those it did not occur to me to be sure that ropes will be able to loop through – well they can’t – did not leave enough space grrrr.
 

 
Cheers,

Update;
 
Moving onto lathing the yards. First looked for dowels that had visible rings, in order to better replicate the yards looking as if they came from in scale real trees.

 
Example of sailcloth and initial stitching, as well as first turned yard. It looks thinner than 8mm – but it is as Corel sized it.

 
Returned to sewing center to finish up the sails. I’m so glad that I met Ivy – she was awesome. I did the cuttings. She (thankfully) did all of the machine work. The resulting stitching, and the hemming is 100% her great work. She also used an industrial steam iron to fold the double hems, then perfect stitching. Came out so well.
 
All of the following photos highlight her great work. Sewing center also had perfect cutting tools
 

I used an unbleached cotton muslin, that has those little black specks here and there - adds to the unrefined look too the sailcloth IMO - Last two are how I decided to add the reinforcement to the lower main sail. Copied what I saw on the 1/10th - As always thanks for dropping by
 
Cheers,

Denis – thanks, yes that does now look as it should. Also thanks for your continued support and kind thoughts.
 
Yup sails keep me up at night J  Would definitely add a big “bang” to this project.
 
EJ – just a thought; I had difficulty trying to properly scale the euphroe block threads taught. A bow seemed to always stay visual coming from each side of the blocks
 
I went from Chuck’s  .018 to his .012 and that helped a bit. But the real solution was to use a routing bit and add indented grooves to the blocks themselves. This allowed the rope bends to be better hidden within the block.
 
Now when pulled the ropes take on a better scaled toughness through the blocks to their respective shrouds.

Cheers,

EJ,
 
Thanks for your nice comments – Yes your advice is well taken. This happens to be something that I have the foresight of understanding. Most of the standing rigging won’t be secured until much latter.
 
I also assume that I will need “reaching room” when attaching yards, sails, and required running rigging. It is my goal to complete the Vasa in 2017.
 
============================
 
And then move backwards to 840 AD or thereabouts (Oseberg) I will, for that one, leave several sections open, including part of the deck, and the hull on one side – making visible construction details that would otherwise be all covered up. So the extra work will be with wood. An area that I like to work with.
 
Probably won’t add the sail, nor its simple rigging, but instead truncate the mast for a partial display. So it will be just basically a hull model.
 
I was just going to ignore this one (too big1/25th scale) but have reconsidered this in hindsight.
And so many actual photos of the Oseberg are available making the structural accuracy easier to replicate correctly.
 
Below is a replica of the Gokstad detail view– (the Oseberg was built as a burial shrine). But these two give great insight into their construction. Oseberg is the full view photo.
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Continuing with standing rigging;
• Changing out the bowsprit lashing to correct – tarred ropes
 •First attempt at making Euphroe blocks, Found a more contemporary looking example online. May also incorporate  blocks with needed Euphros for mainmast backstay (as seen on that photo)
Funny PS; Word saw spelling error and wanted to change spelling to euphoria or euphoric ha ha
•Also making more fiddle blocks
Pics are self explanatory – so brief text here.
I can see that eventually tensioning all of these lines against each other will be complicated to get them all looking “right” That bridge is for later.
 
Cheers,

Hi Mates,
 
He are some updated full views as of today. Always thanks for dropping by.

Hola Michael:
Sure, if I can help you in anyway don´t doubt to ask.  All the stitches were made with my wife sewing machine after marking previously the lines.  About your specific question, for that sail i didn´t put any reinforcement, but I put it at the foremast lower sail. (picture) I took several pictures of the sails and don´t remember which of them I sent it to you, please tell me  if you want any in particular.
 
Saludos, Karl

Dave here you go
 
Tube pliers
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TUBE-CUTTING-PLIERS-HOLD-CUT-TUBES-RODS-3-SLOTS-2-10MM-HOLD-SQUARE-ROUND-/221178520670?hash=item337f44645e:m:mSLbCrYHyC5E5x6ThaElXhw
 
hole pliers
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazbot-7-Hole-Punch-Pliers-5-SIZE-Jewelry-Metal-Leather-HIGH-GRADE-HPP06-/280775730493?hash=item415f89a53d:g:mqgAAOSwN6JY~8CG
 

Hi Mates,
 
Minor update, in a diff area, I’m still waiting to receive needed ropes from Chuck (snail mail –grrr J  )
 
So installed one of the anchors. Positioning will evolve as will - how they are attached.
 
Found a jpg that visually showed how to attach the rope.

 
Used Landström’s drawings as my guide from his The Royal Warship VASA.
 

 
Some general pics
 

 
Here are the new tools that I now use to make the needed rings. This has thankfully evolved from my early attempts at making these rings. Now so much easier. Using aluminium 
tubing that is much softer than brass - though I do like this tool for brass works very well. Both tools found on eBay. 

 
 
Also working on making needed Euphroe blocks (Thanks EJ for your help on this)
 
Cheers,
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Continuing by installing the bowsprit mast. While deciding what size rope to use noticed my novice lack of rigging planning ahead. Easy fix (;-)
 
Also needed to decide if I should use tarred rope or not. There seems to not be a right answer with this.
The 1/10th installed tarred, and the 1:1 not. Clayton’s also did not use tarred. That said; the rope that I installed has a “shiny” tinge to it – not too comfortable with its look.  Here are some preliminary shots of the work so far.
 
PS: It would seem that these mast lashings, given the amount of moisture they receive, should be tarred?
 
Cheers,
 

Denis: thanks you are always so kind with your posts (;-)
 
Patrick: I used Landström for this bit. The only trouble I had was trying to locate falconets that matched the drawing from the book - I did not. I don't remember if F. Hocker mentions this in his books. As always thanks for your continued interest in this build.

Koen,
 
Thank you for your very nice remarks – very kind indeed.
 
Your comments regarding the cannons are correct. This has also been one of the issues with Corel’s Wasa kit. The hull framing is much too narrow as Peter mentioned resulting in the problem that you noted.
 
I wanted to create accurate gratings along with correct frames. As a result cannons have little room indeed. That was my choice of compromise.
 
Patrick’s photo is also very intriguing – The Vasa had extremely long cannon barrels on its weather deck. Yes! How could they possibly re-load those guns?? And Patrick thanks, as well for your comment.
 
EJ.
 
Thanks, your thoughts are much appreciated as well.  I got lucky with that extra bit of detailing, glad that you like it as well. This build is finally coming along. I hope to also start lathing the yards very shortly.
 
 

Part 2 of attempting to build and install catharpin for the lower main. First attempt was wrong, and out of scale.
 
Referred to Anderson, but the jpg that B.E. sent made it much easier to understand.
 
Again B.E. thanks for always being kind enough to also let me know when I’m doing something really wrong – always appreciated indeed.
 
As mentioned in an earlier post this bit seems to be an English type of construction. Though it is installed on the Vasa 1/10th with this type of assembly.
 

 
Put a positioning cradle to help with the install, and secured it into position. Then laced the middle ropes - on each side - to allow for proper tension as well proper alignment.
 

 
Then removed the basswood cradle and attached the other eight lines.
 

 
I’m very happy with this extra detailing – It was a stretch but nice bit of learning.
 

 
 
I looked up the word cat-harpin, apparently, it is – of course- nautical in nature (any number of short ropes gathering in shrouds near their tops) - but the etymology is uncertain. Hmmm.
 
=================
 
Standing rigging is coming along – hope to attach bowsprit mast this coming week.
 

 
A few more detail shots of latest rigging work
 

 
As always – thanks for your kind words, likes, and dropping by.
 
Cheers,
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

B.E.,
 
Thanks for your kind thoughts as well as your always very excellent advice.
Yes those blocks are indeed out of scale (and wrong). I woke up in the middle night, and my mind kept me awake thinking about how to do this correctly. I knew then that all of it was of the wrong scale.
 I actually wanted to return to my earlier pleasant dream of living a Gauguin style of life in the South Pacific, but no! my head kept spinning around the catharpins rigging issue.
 
I don’t have access to your source. I did Google it, available reference, but not that specific page.
 
My Roth, Mondfeld, Mansis, and Peterson sources were to no avail either, Anderson being the only one. Yes, in fact a deadeye is called for. Staring at the 1/10th I kept seeing triple blocks then squinted and saw the correct deadeyes.
 
I’m determined to (after two work sessions) to see this detail through. As a rigging novice I was stymied.
 
I will follow Anderson’s procedure. I think that I understand this now – my working vocabulary is still limited Hmmm. Ironically enough his explanation and drawings are perfect – I just did not understand all of it. I will also use one continuous strand through the deadeyes to the shrouds. 
B.E. thanks so much for still following along and always helping when you see something really wrong – so appreciated - As always,
 
Regards.
it at first read.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Dennis, thanks - 
So decided to “play around” with English style catharpins; work in progress.
Google images not helpful either regarding my bubble in pic 3. 
To be continued or omitted – not so sure about this,
 
Thanks for all of your kind remarks – as always.
 
Cheers,

EJ thanks, as always, for your thoughts and analysis.
 
The Dutch were certainly playing “catch-up” to the English and French of their time. I would also imagine that countries with royalties were not “open” to following possibly enemies’ better build protocols. And certainly these countries were also very ethnocentric as well. And as you mentioned so were the shipbuilders themselves.
 
With regard to ship captains it reminded me of reading somewhere that certain new ships, once away from land, would be ordered by their captains to “loose” some of the heavy gilding in order to increase their speeds while on duty. This may be only a tale – but seems as if it would be a good idea. Much of these heavily gilded galleries were certainly for the “eyes”.
 
Regarding the Vasa – it was certainly, as you mentioned, rushed near its completion in order to be available for the Royal launch; Hocker, as well as others write of this in their Vasa books as well. Certainly part of the reason she sank.
 
So, yes these catharpins certainly were not fitted, if indeed they were even intended to be part of Vasa’s rigging. 
 
It appears as if, and Popeye mentioned this in an earlier post, “who knows how she was really fitted”. Those fore and mainmast knighthead brace pins come to mind – again –the 1/10th differs from the original in this regard, along with the catharpins.
 
My dilemma was actually one of trying to improve my skills with rigging with these complicated looking little “things”; I thought that I would give them a whirl. I still have not decided (maybe one more pour will help!)
 
PS: The best of these that I have ever seen were on B.E’s build log (Pegasus)– amazing work.
About 150+years later in design –and much more complicated to replicate. Again thanks for your thoughts.
 
Cheers,
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Reaching a sort of dilemma. Thinking of also rigging catharpins. So went to my files and saw these two jpg’s. Both of the 1/10th (early and completed versions)
 
Both have lower catherpins added to main lower shrouds in different forms. So went to Anderson – it seems that the 1/10th (completed) is using an “English design” from the early 1600s. Hmmm??
 
The Dutch, according to Anderson, did not use these for the lower shrouds, but were limited to only English ships – or so it seems – until later.
 
Well it would be much extra work (I would rig them English style with the blocks) Looks nicer ha..BUT---
 
It is Sat – so I will enjoy a Single Malt and think about it for tomorrow, or not....

 
 
 
Cheers,

Hi Mates,
 
Update in same area of work. This side took a long time. As you all know it is very repetitive work; now onto the starboard side.
Though I am wanting to go “somewhere else “next. Then realized that the next work bit will be the yards (and the sewing class for the sails) –so more ratlines in my future indeed.
 
Nonetheless I feel that I have actually really moved forward (for me) though I will never be able to keep up with some “Ferrari Speed” builders here at MSW.
Mates – thanks for kindly still following along.
 
Photos speak for themselves (what did I learn?) so I won’t add redundant thoughts here J
 
PS: Thinking of speed my son treated me to this experience last week; BMW Performance Driving School.
 
Sharing 2 pics. Just shy of 130 mph on the long straightaway parts of the track in a “bells and whistles” equipped M3…
OK back to the 16th Century Ha ha…
 
As always, Cheers mates
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

Small update but:
 What have I learned (for me) to begin work on foremast ratlines, after having to remove the first six rows of the main, and starting over? (newbie at this)
 
Shroud ratlines.
 
1) Space-correctly, tighten and pre-glue each first shroud ratline knot (I happen to be R. handed so started with fore to aft). This “pre-locks” correct vertical       spacing for all rows up as I go along.
 
I was thinking of actually correctly tying the first and last ratlines - per row-but way toooo much work. And over the top minutia that would visually disappear. (see pic 1)
 
2) Next just give a gentle pull to each succeeding clove hitch as I thread the row
 
3) Don’t glue completed clove hitches on each row as I go up to the next row.
 
4) Don’t worry about the very last knot (aft side shroud) that will be revisited.
 
===============================
 
5) After all rows have been laced then fine tune adjust (vertically) all knots up and down the shrouds to properly space all rows so that they horizontally blend with each other and the platform above.
 
            Took me several “visits” to think that the results were acceptable.
 
6) Now fine-tune (if needed) clutch hitch tensions on each row.
 
7) Double check that rows are still evenly spaced
 
8) Glue clove hitches with a very tiny dab of G-S Hypo Cement.
 
7) Re-adjust and glue that last left-over aft knot on each row from before (4).
 
8) Then tiny dab of Flat Clear as needed to make G-S Hypo Cement totally disappear.
 
9) Clove hitches should be just a bit “firmer” for next mast
 
============================
 
What have I learned for next build (though it will be a cross-section only mainmasts to worry about). Nice change of venue – looking forward to it.
 
Platform/top
 
Well, this was due to my inexperience in lack of understanding/knowledge of how, in the aggregate, the proper locations of the futtock plates and dead-eyes can lead to problems later with regard to mast, yards and shroud spacing.
 
Pics explain my dilemma. I will have to remove the forward deadeyes and re-fit them toward the stern. This will need to be done for the lower foremast as well Yikes!!., and with the upper masts –
 
Oh no! still learning -TOO late for those, however minor – it’s still not right; spars will become crowded with shrouds. Grrr (lot’s of grrrs I know J)
 
Mates - thanks so much for your continued interest in this build. I hope that my mistakes will be helpful to some other members.
 
Cheers,

 

Popeye thanks SO much for going through this build. Your words are so encouraging as well – thanks again mate
And thanks for all the likes and just dropping by
----------------------------------
Yes yes – “It's All Coming Back to Me Now” (Borrowed this from David Crosby).
After I decided to rebuild the knights, and looking at the 1/1 for how they should look, I did not drill any holes. Thanks Patrick for clearing my weak memory. My initial build, did in fact follow Corel’s instructions (including that railing ha ha)
YES the original not have pinholes. I, now, remember thinking at the time, “well the ropes and shrouds will just wrap around the horizontal frame bit.
 
The 1/10th has it with pins, so I started panicking (sort-of) forgetting about the 1/1 photos - now that my head is wrapped in standing and running rigging thinking.
 
I then received a call from a MSW friend (who also built the Corel Wasa). He mentioned that he saw my latest post and called to let me know that he had met and spoken with Fred Hocker at a NRG meeting sometime back. Frank showed him iPad photos of his award winning (3) ship. Fred then let him know that the pin rails that Frank had installed (per Corel instructions) are in error as are the 1/10th.
 
Then Frank did further research and learned that early 1600s shrouds were just wrapped around the horizontal frames. It was not until later in the century that “the lights” came on” for the pins to make much more sense.
I then also looked again that the museum ship plans (1981) also do not have pinholes.
So this mystery is put to rest. This is part of the problem of taking soooo long to complete a ship build – for me anyways.
Let’s see how DeAgostini handles this issue with their new Vasa kit.
 
Cheers,
 

Hi Mates,
 
Got myself into a bit of a mess. As I’ve mentioned this is my second build. My Santa Maria so many years ago, by comparison, was a walk in the park, even for me a first time builder.
 Well as I have been really learning so much about rigging this Vasa I realize now, in retrospect, that I had/have very little foresight.
 
 For example; I installed the knights with cross-bits at the base of the foremast and main, without thinking ahead. I was happy that I had learned how to use the Proxxon to make slits for the sheaves. And let it go at that – happy to install. Even added nails in the cross pieces to “look” better.
 
So, now, looking ahead at the Corel rigging plans I realize that the cross-bits also needed pin holes (a lot of them) It took the THIRD, and last Corel rigging page to point this out to me (a learner) grrrrr. There was no way that I could drill these fourteen holes at this point.
 
Thought that I could wiggle the knights free and pull them up through the weather deck. The first set install they were just glued into place on the weather deck. When I built new ones with the sheaves I also cut holes through the deck and ran the new knights to the deck below.
They were not “going anywhere” curses. Then thought that I would just tear out the two cross pieces and make new ones, but was nervous about those cross bit nails.
 
Turns out the nails were only decorative and the cross bits just snapped off using small pliers.
 
=====================
 
Sharing because I’m super relieved, and in case another builder misses this foresight as I did as a newbie.
 
Cheers Mates sorry for the long prose. Ok time for a single malt – I think ha ha

 
 

Hi mates,
 
Anton T, and costeo - You are so kind –thanks so much for your thoughts
 =======================
 Almost back-to-back updates, this one is small but there was a lot of needed learning. This small bit took almost four hours to figure out and execute. Hmmmm.
 Decided, rather than removing the already attached Futtock shrouds (used Chuck’s .018s his .012s would have been too thin.
 --------------------------------------
 So did the following
 1-2) unspooled the center futtock shroud at the stave. Wrapped it around the stave separating the three “threads, then re spooled them between the shroud to add a bit of glue at the joint.

 
3) removed the third ply from the shroud and attached one to each side of the shroud at the ratline.

 
4-5-6) did the same for the other two end shrouds also removing one strand. After wrapping around the shroud scale “looked” ok.

 
7-8-9) secured the mizzen backstay.

 
10-11) Now onto the lower mainmast shrouds, BUT the dilemma starts. Looked at the 1/1 for guidance, for the mizzen shrouds, then noticed the 1/10th where the work looked much neater then “finally saw” the difference. Hmmm?

 
12-13) went back to my picture bible (what I have been modeling so far. Then read/looked at Anderson – either way it seems is “ok”.

 
 
Certainly the 1/10th method would be so much less work, but having already done all the topmasts, the bowsprit area, and the mizzen on one side the Peterson way – I will probably need to continue with the extra work for all of the lower shrouds.
 
PS: I’m not even totally comfortable with the work that I have done tying off the ropes around the shrouds - so dilemma indeed. I assume that ALL “finishing off” as Anderson calls it should be the same for the entire ship?
 
PS: Part of the problem is that I used lines that are probably too large for this area. Though the museum 1/1 seems to use a “thick” rope. Again hmmm
 
As always thanks for your kind thoughts and visits,
 
Cheers,