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Johnny Mike

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Everything posted by Johnny Mike

  1. Johnny Mike
    As mentioned there are many types of CAD programs. I started with auto cad LT but of coarse it is only 2D and you will need 3D for printing. For a while I used 2D and had a friend convert them to 3D but this does require some time to do because they have to redraw the piece. I am using Solid Works now. Not cheap but I like it because it is common as used everywhere. And will communicate easily with most all formats. These may not be the cheapest but they are professional grade and produce electronic files easily read by most software and printers. You will be best if you make sure what ever software you use can produce a drawing in STL format. Or something that a printer can read. I can design and draw a part in STL and down load it to my printer and print with no issues. Printed parts shown using PLA wood.
  2. Johnny Mike
    I am building the Batavia 1628. And just printed some parts the first time for me 3D printing. I am amazed at how good the parts came out. Some parts requiring high detail I decided to try what Creality calls wood. The color and texture are exactly like wood. The surface is just slightly rough and a perfect match to wood parts. One part I printed was the gun doors. I drew them to scale and added small lines to simulate the joint between boards. The realist look is great. I also printed the belaying pin racks with the holes to hold the pins and they are perfect. This is my first try at 3D printing but I could not be happier. It is a great addition to building tools.
  3. Johnny Mike
    Thanks That's is what I thought. I have used Autocad for many years and did not want to learn Solidworks or Inventor
  4. Johnny Mike
    I know and use 2D Autocad almost daily and just started 3D printing parts for my Batavia build. I want to be able to supply an STL file to my printer. Is there a simple program to convert my 2D to 3D
  5. Johnny Mike
    I started building the railing on the Batavia a stick at a time and finding it very difficult to get the pieces cut to the length, the correct angle with the deck and equally spaced. And I just was not happy with the glue joints I had on all these small individual pieces, up to 13 per section. Plus it took forever to do each assembly. I tried to build the assembly then fasted to the deck and build each rail piece by piece on the ship. Then I thought if I drew the rail assembly on Auto cad I could get all the angles, lengths and spacing exactly correct and print it 1/1 scale. I could cut it out check the layout by placing it on the deck for accuracy. This worked great I could check out everything about the fit and look of the railing complete. Then I could use the cutout to lay the parts on before gluing them together on the template. This worked also and I had an exact rail assembly I could mount in place. I have use of a 3D printer and thought why not print out each assembly using my drawing. I had found some newer print material that looked and felt like wood and printed them out. They look exactly like wood with perfect joints. 20250517_101404.pdf
  6. Johnny Mike
    Thanks for the comments, I guess. Seems the thread has taken a direction of its own. My intent was to give armature builders, like myself, an idea to make a fairly simple task out of a tedious task that in my opinion looks pretty good. That's all.
  7. Johnny Mike
    I had the same thing happen years ago building the US Dallas. I am sure it was because I planned one side more than the other before I noticed it. I did a lot of trying to straighten it without much luck. I eventually decided to soak a towel in water and wrap the whole hull and firmly clamp the bow and stern in c-clamps and gently over torqued the hull slightly. I did not have all the planking on so I could twist the hull slightly. I kept the towel damp for a week. It worked and I still have the ship today. If you look very close you can see a very slight twist but now much.
  8. Johnny Mike
    thank you
  9. Johnny Mike
    I found an easy way to build wood latter's and steps is to take pre cut wood grating and glue it in the configuration of the size you want then cut it into individual latter's, sand edges and cut to length.
  10. Johnny Mike
    Sorry I did not post a picture I was on an unfamiliar tablet at the time Here is a picture. I started the planking but quickly found out I can not continue this way without twisting the planks, and doing this to fit seems almost impossible. I have looked at laying the planks on an angle but this doesn't seem to work either.
  11. Johnny Mike
    I am building the Batavia and can not figure out to 9lank the two areas that would be the captain s quarters at the rear of the ship.
  12. Johnny Mike
    Just go to 'mini clamps' on Amazon and you will see anything you need.
  13. Johnny Mike
    I work in the basement and I am looking for a small quiet dust extractor. I only need it ocasionally and think a dental dust extractor might work well for me. Does any one have experience using one or have other sugestions? I dont need a shop vac because I have one and it is way more than I need here.
  14. Johnny Mike
    My favorite little sander quit. Obviously I have had it for a long time and they are not around any more. Any help in finding one that works?
  15. Johnny Mike
    Hello The tube I found is used as hand railing. I am not sure what the material is but it is tough and I have used it for steaming many planks for years and it hasn't degraded at all and is not effected by the steam or heat. I have tried using other methods of dry heat but I keep going back to my cheap steamer. It seems to suite my pace.
  16. Johnny Mike
    I have been away from building the Batavia for a while but I am now starting to work on it again. I need to continue planking it and thought I would look at steamers as this is how I have done bending before. I tried soaking and other methods and for me steaming works best. I looked around at different methods both home made and purchased and I am going to stick with what I have been doing because it is cheap and easy. I have not followed this forum for a few years so this may be something that has been discussed before. I just bought an electric tee pot years ago, I think for about $15.00, and found a piece of scrap plastic tube cost $0. As the picture shows I just set the pot on the floor and put the tube over the spout. Pretty crude but simple, cheap and effective.
  17. Johnny Mike
    This is probably not a new idea but I recently found a simple adjustable height work table designed for standing and sitting at a computer worked for me when using it in the sitting position only to work on ship building. I have used a single height table but found when I needed to work up close for small tasks like tying pulleys I had to raise the work and working on the rigging would have to stand up. And I would be in odd postures occasionally to get to a particular part of the model. With an adjustable table I can sit and bring the work to a comfortable height while I stay at one level.
  18. Johnny Mike
    Jan It is very helpful following your build as I am working on the same kit. I just got to some of the running rigging and was confused on where to terminate many lines around the base of the fore mast. I thought I left somthing out an reviewed the plans many times with no luck. Then I consulted your build. Thanks so much. BR JMS
  19. Johnny Mike
    Thanks Jan I am looking for thinner and more flexible line now too. I figured a clove hitch was needed and your tip about adding weight is helpful. BR JMS
  20. Johnny Mike
    Jan I am slowly working on the Prins Willem. I have completed some of the standing rigging. I do not know all the correct nautical terms so I have attached one of you pictures with an area circled. Do you have any tips or tricks for completing this part of the rigging? I have tried a few different methods to complete this and I was not happy with the individual line tension. The line I am using always seems like it should be more flexible. JMS
  21. Johnny Mike
    Thanks so much. This is just what I was looking for. JMS
  22. Johnny Mike
    Hello Marcus I stumbled across your posting by accident but I am so glad I did. I have been a big Dutch style windmill fan for years. I have had the opportunity to visit Zaanse Schans and seen many models on display in a few of the museums. Being a mechanical engineer by trade I am most impressed by the engineering and skill needed to build and operate a wind mill. I am also always impressed by the shear power they possess and the quietness of their operation. I wish the machinery I build today could come close to this power/noise ratio. I have built some models in plastic and a few kits in wood and have always wanted to scratch build one. I have a lot of plans in books and posters but my skill level is not quite up to building an exact duplication of an actual working mill. Can you tell me if and where I can get any plans like you are using? Best regards JMS

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