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amateur

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  1. Ah, closed I like the way you display the model.! Jan
  2. Hi Chris, doing the guns of my De Ruyter, I actually deviated from the rule you gave: the paint had a very high tendency to break at the scoring. Someone suggested to di the scoring on the other side. It made a difference wrt the cracking (although: small). The quality of the print is the weak point of JSC: not completely waterproof, and rather easily cracking at bends.... (based on two models: axeldijk and De Ruyter) Jan
  3. Question: are you scribing the folding lines with a blunt needle or something? Doing that helps getting a crisp fold, and at the place you want it to be. the real pro's are even fussing about on which side you need to do your scribing, but actually, I never see the difference in my results. (perhaps my fault, or eyesight) Jan
  4. Hallo Tom, welkom bij MSW. the victory kit by Amati will be great, (and very large ). will give you some frustrations (all builds do), and lots of fun (most build do ) compared to your other builds, the building time will be slightly longer Jan
  5. And if the tail does not belong to the pixie holding the crown, what is the use of the tail (or: were is the head that goes with it?.) Jan
  6. Yes, I know that that is what you were thinking of. Therefore I mentioned the generic sets made by hmv and draf (There are also firms doing PE-style metal detail sets) Jan
  7. But hmv (and some other companies) sell aftermarketparts (such as railings, ladders, handwheels and anchorchains) fentens, drafmodel are two companies worth checking. Card modelling is serious business in countries east of here. Jan
  8. Oops..... can you salvage it, or do you need to do a total repaint? Jan
  9. I never saw a clue-line on the front of the sail.: they run from the yard to the clue block, back to the block at the yard. Jan
  10. question just for reference: is it a inch-grid onyour cuttin gmat, or a centimeter-grid? (or the same question stated differently: how long is the model?) Jan
  11. There is also a book (in Dutch, by Herman Ketting) giving quite a number of helpfull illustrations. He also gives drawings of the model, but the as Corel took some liberties, the drawings of the original model do not match the Corel drawings 100% The mdoel can be found here: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/NG-NM-11911 And some detail pics of the model (it was in depot when the pics were taken, hence the somewhat dusty appearance....). I was workin gon the rigging when I visited the model, so the pics mainly show riggin gdetails, and not hull details. But perhaps you can use them anyway for inspiration. ON the pics you will see one of the main differences between the original model, and the Corel version: it's the fore-deck: Corel put one in (following a suggestion of Ketting), but the model has none, and presumably, the original did not have one: quite a number of this size of Dutch ships did not have the fore-deck (although the outside apearance is that the have one). And in case you wonder why my avatar is the Prins Willem, and I have this many pics. Somewere in 2000 my wife gave me the Corel-kit as a birthday present, and I'm still not finised (not very hard at work either ) Jan
  12. Thanks for correcting me. Yes, I mean those blue thingies with the black mast in between. Jan
  13. OK. In that case there is no need to tell you the errors in the kit :). Wish you with your build. Guess you know that this drawing is based on a model that is in the amsterdam Rijksmuseum? Jan
  14. Do you work from drawing, or from the Corelkit? PW makes a nice model. Jan
  15. Coming along nicely. hope you stacks are not fitted permanently, you put them back-to-front.... I found getting the right colours a bit problematic (as did the paint shop who helped me ....) I noticed that you painted the upper decks blue. Never realized that they were not always green. (I did them green, as per the billings instructions) Jan

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