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  1. Thanks for the message. Give him our greetings. Jan
  2. Needle threaders can also be very usefull, especially for the from bottom to top at the pin rails. Threader down the hole, line through the threader, done. Especially at the pinrail where you have a rather large hole. Does not always work for blocks, where the hole should be the same size as the line itself, but sometimes it also works. lines not ending at a belaying pin: same story: don't tie off before having attached the whole lot. All lines and somewhere, and have to be fixed there. I found it helpfull to do first all the standing rigging, gave the lines some tensio
  3. Hi Marcus, Look at this site, and more specifically the book by Witsen: Witsen Scheepsbouw On page 121 (page 234 in the digital version) he shows the tables for the rigging, related to the mast-thickness. Basically, all measures are circumferences, and related to the thickness of the mast(s). These tables are the underlying tables for what Hoving has in his books. Rescaling the tables in his books, based on the mast-thickness of his Pinas and your model gives convincing looking results. Jan
  4. Not according to this drawing https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:HMS_Discovery_(ship,_1789)#/media/File%3ADISCOVERY_1789_RMG_J2021.jpg Jan
  5. Hi Roger, you write: the easiest way is to build frames square to the keel. that sounds rather straightforward, but looking at the Chapman-drawing above (large ship, build on a sloping floor) I sometimes wonder: how did they set up their frames: no laser equipment, and the most simple (piece oflead to a string) not working, due to the sloping ramp..... Jan
  6. The answer is two-fold: it is an historically interesting ship, and there exists a very good book (and drawings) on the ship. https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/55-monographie-du-fleuron-vaisseau-de-64-canons-1729.html
  7. That is toothick, but I think the stiffness ofyour thread is what is causing you trouble. Waxing will increase that stiffness, so was will not solve your trouble. I did my ratlines with simple gutermannthread. Problem with that material is that it cant be glued with PVA. An other thing I discovered: the clove hitch can be made in two (symetical) ways. Strictly adhering to oneversion does increase the homogeneity of the final result. Jan
  8. I never had that problem. The only problem I had, was that using a clove-hitch as firdt/last knot was a bit asking for trouble (it loosens when the loose end is cut clise to the knot. Jan
  9. It is the William Rex, a model build iin 1698, on the Admirality wharf of Flushing, build for the Admirality as a ‘showoff’ model for their headquarters. Build and rigged by the contemporeous professionals. Current location Rijksmuseum Amsterdam https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collectie/NG-MC-651 Jan
  10. Henry is right, I checked the literature. the sprittop sail is larger than the fore topgalant, and smaller than the topsail. The 'blinde' was around 1700 afairly wide sail, the length of the yard being three-quarter of that of the main fore. Still, it is a considerable amount of sail. Jan
  11. As Henry said: as long as spritsails were set, there were essentially no lines under the bowsprit, apart from the ones necessary to set the spritsail. Any other lines, as bobstays, were behind the spritsail, so no problem. I object to Henry when he sais that the spritsail and the topsail are always small: in the late 17th century they tended to be quitelarge, almost as large as the main and top on the fore mast. Jan
  12. How did you make those? Milled from a piece of brass, or build up from many small parts? Jan
  13. But make sure that you do not need to stain the wood after covering the part in glue... Jan
  14. Pretty worn out that ship. They should put a couple of men to work with a brush and a can of paint Did the real Z25 one ever reach that state, or is this "pure artistry"? (and artistry it is, as usual) btw I like the pic where you hold her in your (at least, I think it is yours ) hand, because that is the only one where she really shows her real size. Jan
  15. Hi Henry, you will have to make a decision on what your goal is: quite a lot of the kits of Statenjachten are based on Hoeckels "reconstruction" of the Brandenburger Jacht. Problem is: Hoekel did his work early 20th century, in a period he had no access to written sources, no body of academic knowledge to start from, so quite a lot of what he did was pure conjecture, often not in line with contemporary models. So: absolutely not useful to getyour model 'historically correct', but useful toget an idea of what the kitmaker had as a starting point. But now you have a "prob
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