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amateur

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  1. Btw tommodelworks has them 3D printer in 1:700. perhaps they can scale up one or two for you? Jan
  2. You'll need the rescaled paper version cut, glue, ready or cut glue, spray, filler, spray again, base colour, oil canning, spray again, chipping. Done. You can do it, and the bv 138 was a sea plane. Not designed for carries: it had no landinggear, it was mainly in use on those catapult ships: in the water, until loaded onto the launch platform, shot into the air. No need for wheels.
  3. Today I spent the better part of the(rainy) afternoon on the 5 twin bofors anti-aircraft guns. I would have liked some of the parts ro be laser-cutted..... again, small parts, little guidance from the insteuctions. part 192 (the central 'housing' was to folded from a piece of card. I tried something different: I disected it into four separate parts, and glued those together, trying to get slightly crisper corners. The pieces became slightly smaller as a result. (I beveled the larger parts, to minimize the amount of white card visible.) the mount is fairly straightforward, but as the card does delaminate at sharp bends, it turned out a bit difficult to get it all squred up. I should have used the same strategy as for the boxy part. All five finished Next, I did the guns, using .5 mm evergreen, and .2 sofr copper wire. Believe me, the macro does look better than the original, the barrels won't line up properly.... aAnd last: a small 'testfit' on their final position. There should be a couple of small seat added, and some painting to do on the sides of the little floor. If it is rainy again tomorrow, I'll try to finish the other three... Jan
  4. Depends on what you are looking for. The book describes quite a lot of ship types, and their rig. It also shows a number of typical setups for parts of the rig. Very interesting and informatieve, so yes, it is as good as it looks. but when you are looking for a complete and detailed drawing of the rig of a certaintype of ship (where do the various blicks go, how do the lines run, how thick are they, and where should they be belayed, it gives as good as no information. So, no, it is not very interesting and informative. The choice is yours Jan
  5. Hi danny, Yeah, that'svthe one I meant. You wouldn't like the kit, though. It is JSC design, with all its problems. The 1:250 B&V looks convincing, though. Bussard was an interesting ship: it was the German answer to the fact the after WW-I treaties didn't germany allow for a carrier. (Shen ended a bit out of her original purpose after the war, as a dredger in Rotterdam....) Jan
  6. The interservice squabbling was one of the major reasons she was never finished.....
  7. You can ask @Dan Vadas to build some out of paper JSC has a german catapult-ship that includes the B&V 138 at scale 1:400. Some rescaling at the photocopier, and you're done certainly cheaper than that kit Jan
  8. I like the planes on the deck (even inpaimted ) It gives a good impression of the size of the ship. Btw: if not using PE, how are you going to do the windowstruts and antannae of the planes?? Jan
  9. And it wouldbe interesting to know when the messenger-system came in use. My guess would be that a Spanish galleon of around 1600 had a very basic anchor handling: just the anchor rope around the capstan, and nothing else. Jan
  10. Hi Danny, I would rather like the in-between: 50 tiny parts is beyond my cutting capabilities, but they could have done more than four, or at least made the graphics more life-like, in stead of flat grey.... But again: nowhere else to go for Dutch ships. Jan
  11. Here you can see how muchJSC simplified the capstans. Also: the cabledrums were smaller than the model suggests. and in the last pic you can also see again that the guns were rather small for a ship that was supposed to be the strongest of the fleet..... jan
  12. And now complete with the breakwater (even that didn't fit properly ....)
  13. Two months already .... time to get some glueoutof the bottle. Today I did the anchor"chain" and som small stuf on the front deck. I have to say: Scaldis has kept it rather basic, and still got me confused... these are the parts and this is the instruction (actually, this is how scaldis does quite a lot of its instructions: top-view, side-view, and the taxt says: puts parts 296-272 together and place on deck. Yeah.... so what to do: was part271 too small, or 270 too large, orwas it intentional? Nobody knows, and no way to check. I decided that it was intended so. The final result is not bad. placed on deck, it looks a bit flat, and not very inspiring. I don't have ideas how to spice thisup, so it is left as provided by Scaldis: Next part (thebreakwater) was again misprinted. JSC prints the parts two-sided. The problem is: they dont printa grey square onthebackside, wirh some margin for error, the justprint the part in reverse. Problem is: they have both sides off by almost a milimeter, which is rather annoying. And here the present state: breakwater stil drying, one cabledrum (unnumbered in the instructions, but printed) done (And no, the picture is in focus, the part ended up a bit fuzzy: the card used by JSC is rather fibrous: the print tends to crack up, and painting tends to loosen fibres along the edges. Not suitable for very crisp edges.... (I thoughtit was my poos handling, but I have come across otherbuildlogs of this one, and they struggled with thesame issues). Another problem: the card isnot very stiff, and althouogh I backed it up using 160 grams paper, the deck remains wavy, especially visible when you glue parts on it that should stand at 90 degrees to the waterline (eg capstans ) Jan
  14. We had our garden redone last year. The waterbill showed an impressive water usage Hope this year slightly more rain will fall (aand more evenly spread: rain tends to come in large showers, and then weeks nothing at all. Not quite typical dutch weather ) Jan
  15. Yeah, I did notice. Quarter was a bit larger than I expected Jan

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