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No Idea

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About No Idea

  • Birthday 08/10/1967

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    Dudley Black Country England

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  1. Try Cornwall model boats they do it https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Model-Boat-Timber-Stripwood.html
  2. Kurt you are right silver soldering is really easy as long as you keep it spotlessly clean. Also when you clean the joint do not use any kind of sandpaper or emery paper as this will contaminate the surface. Always use wire wool and you'll get a really clean surface. To save loads of hassle try using a silver solder like this https://www.cupalloys.co.uk/low-temp-silver-solder/index.asp It comes in a syringe and has the flux already built in. You just clean the joint and then apply a little paste and get it really hot. You will know when the joint is hot enough because the solder suddenly looks like very shiny molten silver. I've seen a lot of unsoldered joints simply because the heat was taken away too soon and the solder did not flow. Just practice on some old bits of brass and you'll get there and wonder what the fuss was all about.
  3. I too had this problem with my Byrnes tools so a good friend of mine turned a couple of reducers for me in his lathe. It makes hooking up so much easier. They are made of aluminium and are an interference fit on my hoover hose.
  4. I’ve got one of those and they are great. I have found it a bit to big though for my everyday modelling hammer. This is my favourite- it’s tiny and has changeable heads https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74060-Micro-Hammer/dp/B000BN6AAU
  5. Which way are you trying to bend the wood?? With the grain or laterally?? I have just bent some boxwood through 90 degrees laterally and it was very time consuming. The only way I could do it was by soaking the wood for 24 hours and then applying heat with a heat gun as I bent it around a former that I had previously made. I cannot tell you the amount of wood I wasted working this out so feel your pain. Soak for as long as you can so that the wood really absorbs the water and then apply heat as you form the wood. It will steam as you do it - its very satisfying once you've done it though.
  6. Hi All At the moment I'm planking a steam tug and came across a problem that I needed to solve. Just around the prop shaft the hull has a depression in it and no matter how a bent the planks, I could not get them to sit tight against the first layer of planking. The planks needed to be pushed into the hollow and my usual clamps just would not do this. So I made a simple clamp using a toggle clamp - Its fixed to two pieces of 1/8 thick brass which is then fixed to the bulkheads. It gives a nice gentle push down and solved my problem so I thought I would share it on here. I hope this helps someone else
  7. Yea I've never seen these before but I've just ordered one off of Amazon in the UK - Cheers mate for the heads up :)
  8. Hi Mike Good decision Iwata make nice airbrushes but I like to buy from a dealer so that I get a proper guarantee. I don't know the US so I can help you there. As for the compressor I have no experience of Iwata compressors but this is the one I use https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Titan-Precision-22L-Silent-Quiet-Dental-Medical-Clinic-Oil-Free-Air-Compressor/302941915256?epid=26027212772&hash=item4688bec878:g:QOsAAOSw42dZMVbQ Is very very quiet and has enough CFM to power a small professional airgun should you need it. You would probably never need another compressor. Your question about paint and vapour removal is very important. There are many small spray booths available for small parts that work very well - but if your only spraying say water based acrylics its not so important. As long as you are ok cleaning up any overspray a mask will suffice inside and a very understanding wife! For large parts I use my mates garage or just go outside as long as the weather is ok. If you want to spray solvent based paints then extraction is important. The fumes are explosive and very toxic to us so the correct extraction is required. I only use acrylics now as its so much easier and safer.
  9. I've quite fancied buying a Paasche Talon airbrush - the one that comes with 3 different size tips. In theory you could airbrush the tiniest part to a complete hull using the fan tip. But it has so many mixed reviews which really puts me off taking the plunge.
  10. Hi Kevin - Your work looks really nice and far nicer than a trawler would be. I think I prefer your version though as modern trawlers can be really basic vessels without much thought about the finer side of carpentry joints. Its more about practicality over looks due to the battering they get whilst out at sea earning a living. Your doing a great job and I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.
  11. If your not an artist then your choice of airbrush is really dependent on what you want to do. If you just want to substitute spray cans for an airbrush then a big nozzle on the brush is required and whether its single or double action is pretty much irrelevant. If you want to do detailed painting then the size/action of the airbrush is important. Double action brushes do give the greatest control but they do require practice and experience of what paints will flow through them. Single action brushes take far less practice but do require you to be quite competent in spraying in the first place. My advice for what its worth is buy a medium priced airbrush and have a good play with it on many mediums. It will teach you the benefits and also the limitations of the brush. I've used an Aztec airbrush for quite some time as I've liked the different nozzles that can be purchased for it. Its also a single and double action brush in one. I've now moved on but the Aztec is a great start for anyone.
  12. I use scalpel blades too but I prefer a decent handle rather than the thin ones supplied by SM. Here’s the one I use on the right compared to the standard one. It works well for me
  13. This has probably been asked a million times before - but are there any blade suppliers in the UK? If so what do you buy exactly? Ta Mark
  14. For the UK market it’s actually a very good price. If you bought it brand new, once you’ve paid taxes and shipping that saw would be about £950
  15. Byrnes table saw for sale in the UK and he's selling a thickness sander too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Byrnes-Model-Machines-Table-Saw-Accessories/264344805686?hash=item3d8c2da136:g:UfAAAOSww4Zc8a3S Don't say I don't look out for you guys :)

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