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No Idea

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About No Idea

  • Birthday 08/10/1967

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    Dudley Black Country England

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  1. Another small milestone achieved today. I've now completed frames 16 - 27 and I'm definitely getting better at making them. Practice really does make perfect! I still need to cut the slots for the frame spacers and also drill and fit all of the bolts. I really do need to work on my butt joints though as I have a few which are really visible. They look OK when I'm gluing them up but a bit more precision on my part is required.
  2. Hi Clogger and thanks for the nice comments I cut out the parts using a bandsaw but I stay away from the finished line. I then sand them down using a Dremel and a face sander before gluing them together. If you don't already have it I would recommend Adrian Sorolla's book called "An introduction to model ship building dockyard style". Its a full blown build of this model and I am using it as guide as this is my first POF build. What I do though is to make sure that when I sand the bevels the surfaces are sanded all of the way across. I think that this will make the
  3. Any soft solder will be ok - I still prefer the old type with the higher lead content it just flows better. Just have a good practice on something that doesn't matter and you will be ok. I should have said that the Powerflow flux is for soldering metals together only; never use this stuff on electrical connections.
  4. Hi Dave - I can't vouch for the quality in any way but if all your going to do is the odd occasional bit of small soldering these will do you An 80W plug in iron £13.79 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80W-LCD-Digital-Electronics-Soldering-Welding-Iron-Adjustable-Temperature-Tool/283979616080?hash=item421e810f50:g:1YoAAOSwWGNfN1N6 Or if you want to go with a gas soldering iron here's a pretty good make for £26. You can get cheaper ones and some come with a small gas torch adaptor https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GAS-SOLDERING-IRON-25w-80w-PRO-IRODA-SOLDERPR
  5. Hi Dave - The problem with using a gas soldering iron with soft solder is one of heat. If it's too cold it won't solder and if its too hot it won't solder either. They do not have any kind of way of measuring their heat output other than the size of the flame under the tip. Electric irons are set to work at the best temperature and generally always work. I only use gas with silver solder and then its a pure flame. I've never had much success with a flame and soft solder as the temperature is critical.
  6. Hi Dave - If you really want to get one for modelling I can honestly say that I have the cheapest and lowest wattage soldering iron you can get. It cost about £20 and I've used it a few times on copper and brass parts but I could have just as easily glued them together. The type of solder and flux is pretty irrelevant as cleanliness is the most important thing when soldering. Clean the parts with wire wool to remove all residues and then get going. The all singing and dancing soldering stations are great for electrical engineers but well over the top for your average modeller in my opinion
  7. I too have ordered a set from Mikhail - He must be quiet at the moment as I paid for them today and he is starting work on my order in the morning. I've gone for the full set with pear handles as I just couldn't justify the extra cost of the nicer handles even though they look amazing. So if you want some now the time to order and as others have said Google translate works great and he takes payment through PayPal so no risk either.
  8. I've now finished all of the bolts in the forward frames and there's nothing else I can do with these until they get installed. I've now packed them away for sometime in the near future. So I've made a start on the aft frames - I'm starting with the 12 standard frames (Is that the right terminology?) that are not rising. I ran the wood through the thickness sander and made the templates as before. This time though I used 100gm paper and I have found it to be much better than the standard 80gm photocopy paper for the templates. It holds its shape far better and is just stronger when it's g
  9. No pressure there then - the master Jedi is watching your build
  10. The results speak for themselves and I see a masterclass in CNC programming. It must be so difficult to work out all of the cutting passes and just how to hold the piece which probably needs turning around. How you work out the datum on something like that is incredible. This is an art in itself and more than likely the future of model ship building. I just wish that I could do it to be honest
  11. Hi Tony I get all of my wood from here https://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/boxwoods/page/4/ Although you can buy these pieces that are already cut, if you give them a call they will cut you pieces to your own sizes for a small charge. I simply worked out what I needed and gave them a call. The frames on this build are 7.90mm thick so I ordered the wood to be just over 8mm. I then just cut the planks into three to make them more manageable and then ran them through a thickness sander. Mark
  12. I'm now getting on putting in all of the bolts into these 15 frames - all 900 of them. I've already used 4 metres of 0.5mm carbon rod so I'm glad its really cheap to buy! Also a picture of the frames so far not quite lined up correctly. I just need now to get these bolts finished and clean up the frames. I guess I can then start on the rear frames.
  13. I've managed to get some more done. I've now completed the 4 forward rising frames but not without a problem. I found an error in the frame that I made above so it had to be made again. No big deal as I would rather it be right to save problems later.
  14. Thanks Tony thats a good suggestion - As this is my first POF build I really want to do things the right way as much as possible. I want to hopefully make a nice job of it and learn as much as I can for future builds. Well if I survive this one
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