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No Idea

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About No Idea

  • Birthday 08/10/1967

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    Dudley Black Country England

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  1. Sorry I clicked on the wrong quote - its an age thing! Here you go - £21 plus £7 postage - be quick https://www.cashconverters.co.uk/shop/product/parkside-disc-sander-ptsg-140-a1-140w-240v/245647
  2. Here you go - £21 plus £7 postage - be quick https://www.cashconverters.co.uk/shop/product/parkside-disc-sander-ptsg-140-a1-140w-240v/245647
  3. These sanders are great. We get them here in the UK from the Lidl supermarket for £29.99. Great value!
  4. The only thing that the manufacturer reckons this tool won't cut through is bull sh*t - if you've got £400 quid to buy one of these you seriously need help or medication. I've loved this thread its made me laugh so much can't wait for the next one like this
  5. Seriously how can a glue dispenser that costs £28 be any good what so ever for the every day modeller. Do you know how much glue I could buy for that much money. Enough to build two complete ships and a lot of brushes to spread the glue too. Come on I understand that we should embrace technology but thats like buying an atomic clock. Its good but so is my £1 Casio and isn't an improvement in real life.
  6. Ha ha Kurt that is cruel - but oh so true. The really do peddle expensive c**p. Please feel free to insert your own vowels and consternates to create the word crap
  7. I just watched the video on their website and just burst out laughing!!!! I really like the way the guy is suddenly wearing glasses when using their tool like it makes him smarter for using it. He also starts smiling so it probably gave him wind too. Any tool that comes in blue for men and pink for women - well enough said. So in my opinion its an over priced tool that you just do not need. Buy a decent knife - in fact for that money you could buy many decent knives!
  8. Some good advice there but can I add that when I do this type of work I hold the piece in a very small vee block. It holds the brass very centrally and makes the job that little bit easier. I also use cobalt tipped drills when drilling brass. They go through without any bother even when the brass is hard.
  9. If I see any more I'll post it on here I've been cutting some planks on mine today and every time I use it I just get a huge smile on my face. Its so accurate and a pleasure to use. I wish Jim would build a spindle sander - I'd buy it in a heart beat!
  10. Try Cornwall model boats they do it https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Model-Boat-Timber-Stripwood.html
  11. Kurt you are right silver soldering is really easy as long as you keep it spotlessly clean. Also when you clean the joint do not use any kind of sandpaper or emery paper as this will contaminate the surface. Always use wire wool and you'll get a really clean surface. To save loads of hassle try using a silver solder like this https://www.cupalloys.co.uk/low-temp-silver-solder/index.asp It comes in a syringe and has the flux already built in. You just clean the joint and then apply a little paste and get it really hot. You will know when the joint is hot enough because the solder suddenly looks like very shiny molten silver. I've seen a lot of unsoldered joints simply because the heat was taken away too soon and the solder did not flow. Just practice on some old bits of brass and you'll get there and wonder what the fuss was all about.
  12. I too had this problem with my Byrnes tools so a good friend of mine turned a couple of reducers for me in his lathe. It makes hooking up so much easier. They are made of aluminium and are an interference fit on my hoover hose.
  13. I’ve got one of those and they are great. I have found it a bit to big though for my everyday modelling hammer. This is my favourite- it’s tiny and has changeable heads https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74060-Micro-Hammer/dp/B000BN6AAU
  14. Which way are you trying to bend the wood?? With the grain or laterally?? I have just bent some boxwood through 90 degrees laterally and it was very time consuming. The only way I could do it was by soaking the wood for 24 hours and then applying heat with a heat gun as I bent it around a former that I had previously made. I cannot tell you the amount of wood I wasted working this out so feel your pain. Soak for as long as you can so that the wood really absorbs the water and then apply heat as you form the wood. It will steam as you do it - its very satisfying once you've done it though.
  15. Hi All At the moment I'm planking a steam tug and came across a problem that I needed to solve. Just around the prop shaft the hull has a depression in it and no matter how a bent the planks, I could not get them to sit tight against the first layer of planking. The planks needed to be pushed into the hollow and my usual clamps just would not do this. So I made a simple clamp using a toggle clamp - Its fixed to two pieces of 1/8 thick brass which is then fixed to the bulkheads. It gives a nice gentle push down and solved my problem so I thought I would share it on here. I hope this helps someone else

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