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No Idea

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About No Idea

  • Birthday 08/10/1967

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    Dudley Black Country England

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  1. Yea I've never seen these before but I've just ordered one off of Amazon in the UK - Cheers mate for the heads up :)
  2. Hi Mike Good decision Iwata make nice airbrushes but I like to buy from a dealer so that I get a proper guarantee. I don't know the US so I can help you there. As for the compressor I have no experience of Iwata compressors but this is the one I use https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Titan-Precision-22L-Silent-Quiet-Dental-Medical-Clinic-Oil-Free-Air-Compressor/302941915256?epid=26027212772&hash=item4688bec878:g:QOsAAOSw42dZMVbQ Is very very quiet and has enough CFM to power a small professional airgun should you need it. You would probably never need another compressor. Your question about paint and vapour removal is very important. There are many small spray booths available for small parts that work very well - but if your only spraying say water based acrylics its not so important. As long as you are ok cleaning up any overspray a mask will suffice inside and a very understanding wife! For large parts I use my mates garage or just go outside as long as the weather is ok. If you want to spray solvent based paints then extraction is important. The fumes are explosive and very toxic to us so the correct extraction is required. I only use acrylics now as its so much easier and safer.
  3. I've quite fancied buying a Paasche Talon airbrush - the one that comes with 3 different size tips. In theory you could airbrush the tiniest part to a complete hull using the fan tip. But it has so many mixed reviews which really puts me off taking the plunge.
  4. Hi Kevin - Your work looks really nice and far nicer than a trawler would be. I think I prefer your version though as modern trawlers can be really basic vessels without much thought about the finer side of carpentry joints. Its more about practicality over looks due to the battering they get whilst out at sea earning a living. Your doing a great job and I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.
  5. If your not an artist then your choice of airbrush is really dependent on what you want to do. If you just want to substitute spray cans for an airbrush then a big nozzle on the brush is required and whether its single or double action is pretty much irrelevant. If you want to do detailed painting then the size/action of the airbrush is important. Double action brushes do give the greatest control but they do require practice and experience of what paints will flow through them. Single action brushes take far less practice but do require you to be quite competent in spraying in the first place. My advice for what its worth is buy a medium priced airbrush and have a good play with it on many mediums. It will teach you the benefits and also the limitations of the brush. I've used an Aztec airbrush for quite some time as I've liked the different nozzles that can be purchased for it. Its also a single and double action brush in one. I've now moved on but the Aztec is a great start for anyone.
  6. I use scalpel blades too but I prefer a decent handle rather than the thin ones supplied by SM. Here’s the one I use on the right compared to the standard one. It works well for me
  7. This has probably been asked a million times before - but are there any blade suppliers in the UK? If so what do you buy exactly? Ta Mark
  8. For the UK market it’s actually a very good price. If you bought it brand new, once you’ve paid taxes and shipping that saw would be about £950
  9. Byrnes table saw for sale in the UK and he's selling a thickness sander too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Byrnes-Model-Machines-Table-Saw-Accessories/264344805686?hash=item3d8c2da136:g:UfAAAOSww4Zc8a3S Don't say I don't look out for you guys :)
  10. Just chipping in on this subject as there are some very good comments here. I use HSS "jobbing bits" as we call them in the UK on wood as they fly though without any issues and never really wear out due to the lack of friction and heat. They are also easily sharpened when they go dull on a grinding wheel. For brass, steel and stainless steel I use cobalt bits which are a little more expensive but not overly so. They last for ages and just go through without any problems as long as they are lubricated if appropriate. Anything else in modelling is just over kill unless you are using exotic metals which are particularly hard.
  11. Also these people supply the ready cut strip wood. The don’t seem to have any boxwood at the moment but they do have many other woods https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/cherry.html
  12. Hi - I’m a UK builder and I get all of my wood from these people http://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/boxwoods/page/4/ The Castillo boxwood they supply is great quality and their service is excellent too
  13. Hi - I've recently cut some 13mm thick boxwood into 1.5mm planks on my Byrnes saw. I used a .040 slitting blade and had no problems at all doing it in one cut. I made about 30 planks which I then cut in half to 6mm using a .020 slitting blade. This saw is very good but take all of the advice given above as it can bite if you don't respect it. The only thing that concerned me was how hot the motor got but it cooled down okay and has been perfect ever since. Now the only reason that I did this was because I ordered the wrong size wood so I thought that I would just give it a go. It really showed me just how good my saw is. Sorry I should have said that I placed a metal rule as a spacer on the fence that ended half way along the blade. This was to prevent the back of the blade grabbing the wood and getting a kick back due to the lack of a splitter on this tool
  14. Hi Dave - If you want some really good advice regarding building and using a Perkasa this is the place to ask https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php There have been many built on here and they tend to specialise in RC too. You will also find all of the model shops and websites that you need in the UK

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