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No Idea

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About No Idea

  • Birthday 08/10/1967

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dudley Black Country England

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  1. Just chipping in on this subject as there are some very good comments here. I use HSS "jobbing bits" as we call them in the UK on wood as they fly though without any issues and never really wear out due to the lack of friction and heat. They are also easily sharpened when they go dull on a grinding wheel. For brass, steel and stainless steel I use cobalt bits which are a little more expensive but not overly so. They last for ages and just go through without any problems as long as they are lubricated if appropriate. Anything else in modelling is just over kill unless you are using exotic metals which are particularly hard.
  2. Also these people supply the ready cut strip wood. The don’t seem to have any boxwood at the moment but they do have many other woods https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/cherry.html
  3. Hi - I’m a UK builder and I get all of my wood from these people http://shop.exotichardwoods.co.uk/boxwoods/page/4/ The Castillo boxwood they supply is great quality and their service is excellent too
  4. Hi - I've recently cut some 13mm thick boxwood into 1.5mm planks on my Byrnes saw. I used a .040 slitting blade and had no problems at all doing it in one cut. I made about 30 planks which I then cut in half to 6mm using a .020 slitting blade. This saw is very good but take all of the advice given above as it can bite if you don't respect it. The only thing that concerned me was how hot the motor got but it cooled down okay and has been perfect ever since. Now the only reason that I did this was because I ordered the wrong size wood so I thought that I would just give it a go. It really showed me just how good my saw is. Sorry I should have said that I placed a metal rule as a spacer on the fence that ended half way along the blade. This was to prevent the back of the blade grabbing the wood and getting a kick back due to the lack of a splitter on this tool
  5. Wow that is truly beautiful
  6. Hi Dave - If you want some really good advice regarding building and using a Perkasa this is the place to ask https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php There have been many built on here and they tend to specialise in RC too. You will also find all of the model shops and websites that you need in the UK
  7. I too am lucky enough to have one of Jim's table saws and I shipped it to the UK. As Grant has said the cost of shipping is high; in fact by the time I had paid shipping and also 20% Customs VAT on both the cost of the saw and postage it pretty much doubled the price. Was it worth it - absolutely in fact I have since bought a thickness sander from him too. There is no way I could justify the cost but its just the best gear you can get, and your only here once. I should have bought them earlier!
  8. Hi druxey - I can't help but feel that the garboard plank gives new builders more issues than any other plank. I've read so many descriptions of this plank that it even confuses me. I think we need to come up with a more simple description of it. Yes its generally wider, yes it can go through a 90 degree twist at the stern and yes it needs to be parallel to the keel. But its still a plank that needs to be made just like all of the others. There are more clever builders on here than me that could attempt to resolve this issue in plain language.
  9. I'm not sure what the instructions you have mean if I'm honest. However the garboard plank is very important in your build but no harder than any other plank if you plan it right. For its entire length all of the following planks need to be straight to the keel.........but it must also not rise up on the bow. This is so contradictory so a picture paints a thousand words. Have a look at this and its gives you and idea You can see how the Garboard plank tapers in at the bow to stop it from riding up and crowding later planks - I hope this helps
  10. Was the bulkhead laser cut? Did you remove all of the burnt edge first. The ash that’s left can stop a decent gluing joint
  11. I have had a very enjoyable Sunday afternoon reading you build from start to the present. I think your approach to using edged tools is absolutely commendable and your build is beautiful, there is so much to learn right here. Having seen this I am very tempted to buy some carving tools from Mikhail and was wondering if there is a webpage to look at there tools? I'm looking forward to the next update.
  12. Thats very interesting Kurt and thanks for sharing
  13. Hi Kurt that's really interesting as I have been leaning to the same conclusion as you, especially when ripping long lengths of thick hardwood for planks. Can I ask which is your preferred carbide blade?
  14. Just a guess but I think he left the long Allen key in which locks the blade height and it may have rattling around
  15. Mine does this sometimes and all it is on mine is the blade catching on the zero clearance insert. It makes a tinkling noise but stops after a while. It’s amplified on theses saws because the insert is thin aluminium and underneath it is basically a sound box. Nothing to worry about at all. Without doubt my Byrnes saw is the best tool I have ever bought.

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