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No Idea

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About No Idea

  • Birthday 08/10/1967

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    Dudley Black Country England

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  1. Hi druxey - I can't help but feel that the garboard plank gives new builders more issues than any other plank. I've read so many descriptions of this plank that it even confuses me. I think we need to come up with a more simple description of it. Yes its generally wider, yes it can go through a 90 degree twist at the stern and yes it needs to be parallel to the keel. But its still a plank that needs to be made just like all of the others. There are more clever builders on here than me that could attempt to resolve this issue in plain language.
  2. I'm not sure what the instructions you have mean if I'm honest. However the garboard plank is very important in your build but no harder than any other plank if you plan it right. For its entire length all of the following planks need to be straight to the keel.........but it must also not rise up on the bow. This is so contradictory so a picture paints a thousand words. Have a look at this and its gives you and idea You can see how the Garboard plank tapers in at the bow to stop it from riding up and crowding later planks - I hope this helps
  3. Was the bulkhead laser cut? Did you remove all of the burnt edge first. The ash that’s left can stop a decent gluing joint
  4. I have had a very enjoyable Sunday afternoon reading you build from start to the present. I think your approach to using edged tools is absolutely commendable and your build is beautiful, there is so much to learn right here. Having seen this I am very tempted to buy some carving tools from Mikhail and was wondering if there is a webpage to look at there tools? I'm looking forward to the next update.
  5. Thats very interesting Kurt and thanks for sharing
  6. Hi Kurt that's really interesting as I have been leaning to the same conclusion as you, especially when ripping long lengths of thick hardwood for planks. Can I ask which is your preferred carbide blade?
  7. Just a guess but I think he left the long Allen key in which locks the blade height and it may have rattling around
  8. Mine does this sometimes and all it is on mine is the blade catching on the zero clearance insert. It makes a tinkling noise but stops after a while. It’s amplified on theses saws because the insert is thin aluminium and underneath it is basically a sound box. Nothing to worry about at all. Without doubt my Byrnes saw is the best tool I have ever bought.
  9. Hi - I can see why you may want to swap woods - but as you have said this is your first wooden boat build. Why not just build it and get some great experience under your belt. You will learn loads and solve many small problems along the way too. There are some really tricky planks that you would have to cut and it will take you ages. This may put you off a bit for a first attempt as it should be fun and inspire you to more complex builds. Just my thoughts that’s all 👍
  10. You can sometimes really over think things. I’m terrible for doing this and my experience has shown that more often than not the doing is much easier than first believed. Just go for it and solve each small problem as it arises. If your unsure whether to glue something, clamp it in place first and have a play around with it. You’ll get the idea but make sure you have fun and enjoy your build
  11. Yea your right there but what’s the worst that can happen. It’s a diluted mix of PVA which most likely is just going to coat the surface of the wood. Nothing more and nothing less Ah come on that’s hardly inspiration for this builder and has nothing to do with their original question. Personally I wish the builder really good luck and I hope it turns out great 👍
  12. If this is the kit I’m thinking of the planks are already spilled “shaped” by the manufacturer and the hull is clinker built. This would mean that there’s going to be no lateral bending forces, in fact I bet there’s very little bending involved at all due to the pre-manufactured planks. Its also a very narrow hull which will also help. Personally I would follow the instructions word for word as the kit is designed with ease of build in mind. If I’m thinking of the wrong kit then just ignore my ramblings 😂
  13. Hi Wallace - have a look at this. This guy sails and works on them, has made the full size boats and also makes beautiful models of them too https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,61583.0.html
  14. Great get reading they are fantastic sources of information. They will explain about lining the hull, tapering planks, fairing the frames and working out planking widths and runs. As you progress it will all make sense and make your planking so much easier for you. And it will look great too. Don’t get too hung up on how to heat the wood for bending. All methods work as they all involve heat and it’s a case of finding what works best for you. I like to use a hot air gun whereas others like to drop planks straight into a boiling kettle. It all works no problem. As for clamping there are many options such as the micro mark clamps to name but one. I’m sure others will be along soon to give you a few pointers.
  15. Hi - firstly if you haven’t read the planking for beginners in the articles database it’s a great place to start. It really will answer most of your questions. Personally I don’t use pins to hold planks I much prefer to use clamps but that’s my choice and others will use their own methods. I haven’t made the Rattlesnake but looking at the pictures the frames are quite spaced apart. This will make planking harder to get the correct shape especially if it’s single planked. Can you fill between the frames with some balsa to get the Hull shape before planking? If you can it will make the job much easier. Now as you have decided to steam your planks, you will make them flexible but at the same time the moisture content will increase. This expands the wood so you need to clamp/pin/hold your planks in place and then let the plank dry out. Once this has occurred you can then glue it in place. If you don’t then usually the glue doesn’t bond very well and also the plank shrinks a bit. This will then give you gaps. By the sound of things you have an electric aeropiccola bender which is a great bit of kit so why not try heating and bending your planks with that first? Have a good read through the data base and good luck with your build 👍. Effective planking is all about the planning of the entire job before one plank is even laid.

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