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No Idea

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About No Idea

  • Birthday 08/10/1967

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  • Location
    Dudley Black Country England

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  1. Hi Tony - yes it’s clean but not straight 😂. I’m working on putting this right at the moment. If you look at the back of the monograph you will find the scantlings which give the timber sizes. What it won’t tell you though is the overall quantity that you need. I’ve found this to be unimportant as the time scale required to build this ship is long so if you like just buy what you need to get going. Or do what I did and just buy a load of lumber from your supplier and make them very happy people 👍
  2. I made this today entirely from start to finish (except for the tapered rabbet which was filed by hand) on an MF70. Is it up to the job - damn right it is! The thing that this tiny mill has over its much bigger counterparts is spindle speed. You can get up to 20,000 rpm which on a small cutter virtually eliminates chip out. This is one of my go to tools and wouldn't be without it.
  3. That’s a very nice job vaddoc. In regards to the gaps rather than using filler I would fill the gap with wood glue and then sand the hull whilst the glue is still wet. That may just fill them up and it would also be the correct colour.
  4. Thanks for the nice comments all. I’ve made a start and it won’t take me long. There’s only a few pieces to make and I’m in no rush. I’ll keep you posted as I just want this build to be right
  5. Hi Tony I'm pretty sure now that I pulled it around when I clamped the apron in place. The solution would have been to remove the apron so I left the whole thing in a bath of IPA overnight. This has not even touched the glue and everything is still as solid as it was. So like we do I tried to force it apart and its now damaged. So I'm going to remake it and I'm ok with this, as it needs to be right. I'll pick this thread up again once I get to where I was Mark 👍
  6. Well I guess something had to wrong sooner or later. I was just about to start on the last two rising wood pieces and I thought that I would just check the alignment of the keel again - and its wrong. The angle of the stem has moved by 1.65mm out of alignment and I think this happened when I glued the apron on. I think that I probably over clamped it and pulled it back somehow. I cannot pull the stem into alignment as it then stresses and bends the keel upwards. I think this will have to be a complete rebuild which is a shame but hey ho!
  7. Hi Dave - A word of caution as I'm going to encourage you to spend some well earned money!!! Have a look on the Cooksongold website as they sell Foredom tools. I have just swapped over to these and got rid of all of my Dremel gear after this was recommended to me. I was very reluctant to be honest but the difference is like night and day. Loads more control with torque rather than speed and a really decent drill press too which suits our needs. I have a hand piece that accepts 1/4 diameter bits too. I wish I had bought this years ago as the amount of money I have spent on little bits her
  8. Hi Clogger its not to far off now but I'm going to make the transom timbers first the same way Adrian has in his book. I will be making a jig so that things are nice and square too. Not much done today as I really needed to give my room a really good clean as I've been making quite a bit of dust. I've tidied up the sternpost rabbet so that it has a better transition. I've also just been going over what I've done so far to make sure nothings been missed.
  9. I got some more done today - you will be relieved to know that I go back to work tomorrow so my updates will be at my usual slow rate of building! The parts that were previously fitted dried OK but.......I do have a bit of a gap between the stem and the apron. I tried to scribe these parts together but it didn't quite work out as I had hoped. Its only a small gap and on my next build I'll learn from my mistake. I've now cut the stem rabbet which is time consuming but also really pleasing. I learn't on my last build that getting the rabbet right makes the planking j
  10. This is one of these solutions that seems good until things go wrong 1. You cut a thin strip of wood and the one side gets dragged down into the blade and busts through the tape seizing the saw. 2. The tape has drag that a metal surface doesn't. So your piece stops and your finger don't 3. This lulls you into thinking that your saw is set up correctly I think that you have got away with things so far. If you have worked with power tools for a long period you will know just what a nasty habit they have of biting back just when you're not expecting it. I
  11. Spot on Roger but considering the postage of a Byrnes saw outside of the USA is about $275 I don't think a few inserts will dent anyone's budget 🤣. We then pay 20% VAT on the cost of the item and the postage too when it arrives and before delivery. The UK Post Office put a $20 handling charge on just for good measure. I hope we get a Transatlantic trade agreement as soon as possible 👍
  12. This is great advice - you will need 4 - 5 zero clearance inserts dependant on the different width blades you use and its great to have a spare. I use all of the different blades for different jobs. I imported mine to the UK and the customs charge and postage basically added a third or more again to my purchase. So my advice to you is get as much as you can into your parcel and only pay for postage once. You'll be buying its own seat on the plane 🤣 Get a spare drive belt and spare bolts just in case you loose any. If your budget will stretch to it get the sled too.
  13. Hi Michael and thanks for your comment - Now it may look perfectly accurate in the pictures but just like everyone else I have to jiggle all of my joints around a bit to get them to fit. I also have to make loads of adjustments to make the parts fit the master plan as I have found that photocopies have much thicker lines. This may seem like no big deal but a few slightly thicker joints on a model that's a metre long adds up to a 3mm problem at one end or the other. I check against the plan more times a day than I care to admit too. I do quite a lot of machining but I always fini
  14. So far so good mate! Today I had to first correct an omission on my part. I forgot that the floor side of the frame has a narrower fitting on the rising wood and I had forgotten to do this. So I cut the 3 affected notches which luckily was easy enough. Next I made the lower apron and the apron. Another tricky part to get right but I've done the best that I can. Its now clamped onto the keel waiting for the glue to dry. I'm going to concentrate on the stem rabbet next so I need to put some thought into that.
  15. Hi druxey 🤣 Thanks for the comment - Maybe one of the mods can give me a new screen name I'll leave it to them to choose 🤣 Today I made the sternpost knee extension which turned out to be quite tricky to make. It has many notches at differing angles and then it has to be tapered towards the stern. Not only that it tapers downwards too and then the sternpost knee and the false sternpost have to tapered to match. I found the best approach was to fully mark out the tapers in all directions on all the pieces to that I could envisage how it should look after it was completed.
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