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About flying_dutchman2

  • Birthday 07/18/1957

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Crown Point, IN, USA
  • Interests
    Dutch Ships (1600-1850), Especially different types of merchant ships, Everything about VOC history, Woodcrafts (carving, scrollsaw), Bonsai, Edible gardening.
    Member & Secretary of the Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago.

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  1. Thanks for the ideas and likes. The bend 0.5mm thick plywood has been formed and installed where the tiller goes in and filled with the combo glue / sawdust. Once this is dried and hardened I can make a rectangular hole wher the tiller goes through. After that I will plank it with walnut planks that are 0.5mm thick by 2mm wide strip wood. The wales have been redone. Still needs much sanding Marcus
  2. Now the area where the tiller goes in. In Dutch it's called het "hennegat". Removed with a x-acto knife and saw the two upper wales on both sides. Then sanded it even. Created a template from a round dowel. Both sides of the dowel have the same angle as each of the sides of the Fluit With a combination of glue and sawdust re - installed the upper wales. The glue / sawdust combo was also added to the inside of the planks to create a hard structure. The newly glued on planks were held together with painters tape. The plank
  3. Made a template from the area that is glued on top of the sternpost. Created a 1mm thick veneer by glueing 0.5mm plywood and 0.5mm walnut veneer together. Used the template to create those 2 pieces and glued them to the sternpost. At the same time it will hide the square dowel added to the sternpost. Marcus
  4. I just noticed this built and I like the figures you added. It makes it so much more realistic. Excellent craftsmanship. Marcus
  5. Thank you both for your imput. The only thing I will be doing is add 10mm piece of wood to the keel and sternpost. Several people said the same thing on modelbouwforum.nl as you both did. Marcus
  6. Thanks for all the likes and comments. I've noticed another mistake (I keep doing this). When I initially cut out the sternpost it was according to the drawing. Glued it to the skeleton frame and started planking. My guess is that my planking is to thick as well as the wales because the post slowly disappeared. I should have planked the hull first and then glue the sternpost and add the wales last. So in some areas of the sternpost I will have problems gluing the gudgeons on to it. What I need to remember is dat the angle of the sternpost has to be
  7. Kees, as always, excellent craftsmanship. The book you used for your bilge pumps, what is the name and author of that book? Marcus
  8. Thank you. The pins I got a long time ago. In the 70's in the Netherlands. I bought a thousand and still have a couple of 100 left. I use the as steel pins in the wales. I'm looking for more. Once I find them I'll let you know. Marcus
  9. Thanks for all the likes and comments. When I was sanding the opening where the tiller goes in, the two top wales sprung loose from the hull. Ten cm of that wale was removed and 8 cm of the wale below the top wale was removed. Created 2 new scarph joints and placed 2 new walnut planks in place of where the other wales were removed. Using glue & sawdust combo, bend the wales towards the hull, clamped and pinned the area and let dry overnight. On the inside installed 0.5mm thick planks and most of it will not be visible.
  10. I just noticed this built and she is beautiful. I find fluits some of the more unique vessels. Yours looks really good and the hips are nicely curved. Marcus
  11. Thank you very much for the compliment. A Fluit is one of the most difficult ships to build. I've always loved her shape and always wanted to build one. But I had to built other ships to get ready for this one. I soak the walnut an cherry for several weeks and the planks become very playable. I also use many thin planks and layer them together to get a thick wale. The planking of the hull is the most difficult part of the built. You can read about some of the mistakes I made which Ab Hoving has mentioned and I redid it as he suggested. Ab has built several Fluits so I consider him
  12. Wales have been glued on and scarph joints have been created. Made some pilot holes with an awl and will drill them a bit bigger so a black pin will fit into the hole. Planking the sides above the wales and eventually paint it green. All colors for the Fluit will be paints that existed in the 17th century. Marcus
  13. Thanks for the compliment and they are. I started out wrong and by layering the wood slowly adjusting them to get it straight. I thought of a tear down and redoing this but that meant removing a significant amount of wood and than I might as well starting from step one. There are so many mistakes I made on this ship that I see this as an exercise towards another Fluit. On modelbouwforum.nl there is a guy, handle name amazone, and he has built several Fluits. He mentioned that the Zeehaen is one of the most difficult to built. He tried twice and they both ended in the
  14. Thanks for all the likes and comments. As I mentioned before the wales are 2.5mm thick and 6mm wide. The planks have been soaking in plain water for about 4 weeks. I soak all my wood a long time especially with building the Fluit. I made small indentations in tbe stem of the bow and stern. The plank for the wale will be pushed into it. I than slowly bend the planks by pushing with my fingers to the contour of the hull. At the same time I make small pilot holes and use pushpins to hold the we on the hull.
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