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About flying_dutchman2

  • Birthday 07/18/1957

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Crown Point, IN, USA
  • Interests
    Dutch Ships (1600-1850), Especially different types of merchant ships, Everything about VOC history, Woodcrafts (carving, scrollsaw), Bonsai, Edible gardening.
    Member & Secretary of the Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago.

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  1. Mark, thanks for the explanation and Ab, for the elaborate definition of all the decks. I appreciate the Dutch definitions as well. Marcus
  2. Measured many times the heights of the different decks. Meaning of the colorful push pins: Yellow and red is for the waterline. Green and blue is for the lower deck which will not be visible. White and clear is for the main deck, and decks I don't know the names for. This is the lower deck that will be completely hidden. I have put it in anyway because I will use it as a guide for the beams for the main deck and other small deck. What is the deck called under the poop deck (where does that name originate from?). Does the forecastle deck have a focsle on top of it? Please feel free to set me straight or steer me to a location where all decks are defined on any ship. I have books that have some explanation of decks but they are not complete. Thanks Marcus
  3. This morning I did the radical re-do without any problems. Removed the necessary planks and frames. Sanded everything and glued in the frames. Glued in the planking and for extra strength, drilled hole through plank and frame and hammered in a toothpick. Tomorrow I will sand lightly on the outside, add some more frames to the area and make sure there are no more drastic re-do's. Marcus
  4. Thanks for the suggestion. I will do the radical re-do and get the planking going straight up. I think it would look much better that way. Marcus
  5. Before I do another 'radical re-do', I have the following question for the modelers who have built a Fluit. When I am facing the ship with the taffrail/stern in front of me, on the left side from frame 50 to the taffrail the upper planking goes straight up. Facing the taffrail/stern again, on the right side. From frame 50 to frame 20 the top planking is at an angle and from frame 20 to the taffrail the planking goes straight up. Question: Do I need to do a drastic removal from the area on the right side from frame 50 to 20 and reinstall new frames, so when I plank that area the planks will go straight up? I am tempted to do this as it is easy to execute and doesn't take up a lot of time. On the pictures uploaded here, you can't really tell the angled planks to the straight up planks. On several pictures in the Merchant book it looks that way, not angled but straight up. Thanks for the suggestions in advance, Marcus
  6. Figuring the location of the decks. Starting at the waterline I measure between decks on the plan and transfer that number to the same location on the outside of the hull. Once all locations are marked with a pencil, I drill a tiny hole in the hull. I do the same for the other side of the hull. Stick a stainless steel rod through all the holes which give me an idea of where the decks will be. (From my Woodworkers club, a steel worker gave me stainless steel rods from sizes 0.3mm to 2mm) I just cut them in smaller lengths. Made deck templates from cherry veneer and put them where the permanent decks will be. The rods are temporary. Notches will be made where the tiny holes are located and a deck beam will be installed there. Then a new deck will be installed. On a different note. From the 10th to the 24th of February I will be in New Delhi, India. The first week is sight seeing and in the second week there will be a 3 day wedding. My niece is getting married in a traditional Indian wedding. I am the only paternal uncle and I have a crucial role to play. I will be giving the bride away. My wife and I have all the necessary clothing to wear for the occasion. Indian weddings must be one of the costliest occasions compared to other types of weddings. Feed 300 and counting guests for 3 days. Our clothes are in the frugal range of $$ but the wedding dress can go from simple to having gold strings sewed into them. My guess is that my niece's dress will not be cheap. Anyway, it is going to be an interesting affair. Marcus
  7. I love all the building material you have added to the diorama. It tells a story and makes the model so much more interesting On my present built, I plan to add an extra mast and a few yards. Marcus
  8. This jig measures the height and checks if both sides are level. Both sides have to be even. Besides measuring the height of both sides, I also draw the waterline on the hull and with pushpins attach planks to the edge of the waterline. From the plans I measure the distance from the waterline to the top of the railing. Then I transfer that figure to the ship. Lets me know how much wood I need to remove or add. Marcus
  9. Final layer not on yet. I plan to do the decks and the railings first because I will be moving the model a lot just to get the decks in the correct position. I don't want to dent the 2nd layer planking. Marcus
  10. G. L., Upper layer of planks? Do you mean the second layer of planking or the first layer of planking but up towards the taffrail mould? My tree nais are toothpicks cut in half with a razor blade. Marcus
  11. Thanks Ab. She looks so much better and the lines flow much nicer. As I wrote in Stevens reply, I will start on the decks now and install some of the inside the hull planking, that is the area on the main deck and the rest of the upper decks. Marcus
  12. Steven, Thanks for the compliment. Over the course of this build I've been reading a lot about the Dutch Ship wrecks on the coast of Australia and the museum in Fremantle pops up constantly (just need to visit it all....... one of these days... ). Museums in Australia have a wealth of information about the Dutch. Furthermore, many PhD dissertations in marine archeology are written about Dutch Ship wrecks in and around Australia and most of these papers are free. Because you like this build, you need to check out Jean-Pierre's beautiful build. In the search area, type Dutch whaler. It is a good looking model. Everything is nice and round. No straight lines. The second planking will be cherry (which will darken over time), and walnut for the wales. But first I need to install the decks and figure out where the masts will be placed. Marcus
  13. Slowly planking up and after the hips the planks go straight up. Again, she looks much better and the planks come together in a point behind the taffrail. Top view Marcus
  14. Thank you for the complement. Yes, I checked your build and I am impressed with how you build her. It is not an easy ship to built. Marcus

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