iMack

hey druxey, yeah they are all resin based - there aren't many materials available unfortunately. They have the standard resins with different colours, a 'castable' resin (wax based) used for investment casting in jewlery and a flexible resin. But that's it. That is one of the downsides with this machine. /Iain

The print is angled as the machine likes to print on a skewed orientation. That's what result in so much support structure (basically a sprue as you mentioned). Handily you can set the point size so that they can easily snap off however. An alternative (and probably wiser) way would be to print the model in several parts as dvm suggested. The reason the machine prints skewed, is just a result the way the printer functions. I believe this is due to the 'peeling' process that is involved with the bed. Each time a laser shoots towards the bed (the plate that holds the resin) it tilts downwards, allowing the model to peel off. The plate holding the model then moves upwards, and the same process then happens again. If I remember right that model was about 700 'peels' On high resolution (0.025mm) it'll take 4h20. Quite a drastic difference in time. Maybe I'll get a chance this week to give it a try and compare surface quality between the 3. Cannon 1:64 0.10mm : 1hr 0.05mm : 2hr 0.025mm : 4hr20 /Iain

I thought I'd add a post/log here of my experience testing with the Form1+ printer. I've had a fair amount of experience with different 3D printers so I'll document my ramblings and it may be of some use to someone, who knows? The university recently bought a Form1+, and since I'm the printing nerd they've given it to me to set it up (and play with). We have access to a whole range of different FDM printers in the studio but they are all junk for creating very detailed parts. They are good for objects with large surface area and some other parts, but the amount of sanding and filling is their downfall - even with a coat of XTC. So the machine arrived today and I spent most of the day setting it up. I'll be busy getting all my CAD files ready for printing and I'll get a whole batch on tomorrow. From the first try, the machine prints very well and is incredibly easy to setup (compared to some others). Simple and fast to operate it certainly gives some commercial machines a run for their money. With the machine costing less than a 1/10th of the professional ones the quality loss isn't drastic either. My test print cannon is at a 1:64 scale just over 4cm in length. Printed at 0.05 mm (which translates into medium settings for the machine) took 2 hours to print. Cost came to £1 (matieral wise) using just under 10ml of resin. However cost of consumables would have to be added (the printing tray and the alchol solution). Iain

Thanks for the comments guys. It looks like I've set the bar a bit high, the main reason I'd chosen this ship was because of the availability of plans. (not to mention high quality tiff files) For my first build I'd like to use a full set of plans, just to keep myself at ease. Could you folks suggest me good website with plans I could acquire?

Hey. Correct I am based in the UK, in Bournemouth. hmm Okay this gives me some more perspective, thanks for the input. I'll have to have a think over. Perhaps a sixth rate ship of the line might be more appropriate? With the pins in place wouldn't that hold the glue so that it can set in it's own time, meanwhile working on the following layer?

When regarding the keel and frames, I meant the width of the wood (not the thickness in terms of height, my apologies). and you heard me right. I realise it's a big undertaking, however I have the frames and keel drawn up and can be laser cut in a few hours. I can dedicate all day every day for 6 weeks. So it adds up to over 500 hours. Is this enough? I won't be doing any rigging so it'll just be a completed hull. thanks, Iain

I've taken a keen interest in the 3D printing movement and followed it continuously. I want to try using it to create the detail on the captains cabin and several other smaller details. I've used the Form1 desktop printer to print a section of the mary rose on a previous project at a 1:200 scale. I don't have any closer photo's unfortunately, but it came out very well. Check out this link, some interesting work being done there. http://3dprint.com/51566/carbon3d-clip-3d-printing/ Thanks, Iain

I do realise I'm jumping straight into the deep end. I have completed a small boat before in a clinker style, however it was made using styrene. I'll add a link below. I'm a complete novice using wood, however I bought myself two model boat building books that will help guide me through. Along with the help on the forums they will aid me greatly. Tools shouldn't be a problem. I have at my disposal laser cutters, a wood workshop full of machinery (circular saw, band saw, lathe, CNC machine) and an SLA 3D printer for all the custom pieces. I will most likely use lime because of it's availability. As for the scantling, what thickness of keel/ribs would you recommend on this scale (1:80)? Are these usualy two smaller pieces of wood glued back to back, or a single piece.The only restraint I have on this build is time really. I have 6 weeks to complete it, however I am able to dedicate the whole time towards this as it is a university project. http://cargocollective.com/iainmackenzie Thanks again, iMack

I would suggest sanding the char off just for the appeal factor most of all. It would be a shame to have the char visible once the model is built. Depending how charred it is (nearer black than brown) it can stain your fingerprints and dirty anything you touch. Doesn't usually effect gluing, however by sanding the edge means the wood is slightly more porous around the edges allowing the glue to seep in further. The laser cutter creates a thin barrier of sorts.

Thanks for the swift reply Jaager. That is correct I'll be scratch building it, however I was aiming to use the POF method. This is not finalised yet, so I might yet use the POB direction. I'm a complete beginner so please excuse all the questions. I assume plywood is not suitable for the keel and ribs then. I'll take a look at those links. I'm looking for a relatively affordable alternative as my student budget doesn't stretch far! Thanks again, iMack

Hello all, I'm in the process of planning my first build and searching for materials. I will be building the HMS Leopard at a 1:80 scale. Since this is my first build I'm unsure of what thickness of matieral to be looking for. I'm planning to use lime wood for the planking and plywood for the keel. What thickness of planking is usually used at this scale? and.. Is plywood acceptable for the keel, and if so what thickness? Thanks folks, iMack EDIT: Sorry i never noticed the wood subcategory, my mistake.