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mrmdpc

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  1. Ty for the picture. I always have an easier time making something look like something I have already seen.
  2. That actually makes sense. Thanks for the information and the photo. I can make that work. Marty
  3. I have not been able to find out what a "jib stop" is, what it does and how it is used. The only place I see it is on the set of drawings (not in the instructions) and only in this one place. This is a MS Bluenose kit build. Anyone have any insights?
  4. Anyone have any input on the sizing of the oars for the dory boats on the Bluenose. I could not find any info in the plans or instructions. While I am asking, what other items would be appropriate to display in the boats.
  5. I am making the deck furniture for my MS Bluenose 1:64 scale. At this size a fair amount of detail shows. The plans call for a reasonably contoured molding around most of the structures. Apart from grinding down a razor blade does anyone have alternative methods for consistent production of a contour on these relatively small pieces? Do I need to abandon the basswood from the kit and use a harder wood?
  6. I am trying my hand at blackening brass. I applied Jax Pewter Black with a very quick dark black coating on the brass. The only problem was that rinsing the part with water washed off most of the color as well. What am I doing wrong? Does it need to be allowed to dry before rinsing? That doesn't make any sense since leaving in the solution too long is supposed to result in a coating that flakes off. Open to any suggestions. Just saw the post from July on this same topic. I will renew my efforts painting it on.
  7. Hi Greg I am no expert, actually kind of a newbie myself. I did complete the Phantom a few months ago, It took a lot of slow gradual carving to bring the contour of the hull to match the templates. The most had to be removed from around the sternpost. Just take your time. I used a combination of a Dremel, wood chisels and sandpaper. Just follow the grain as best you can. As to the glue, if you are putting all this time into the build, it is worth the $3-4 for a fresh bottle of wood/carpenters glue. It gets tacky to hold within a few minutes and works well. Marty
  8. It works!! I am surprised at how much of a twist and a bend you can put into a piece of basswood.
  9. Thanks for the info. Never thought about how long it takes to dry out after soaking it.
  10. I am just starting to lay out the planking on my MS Bluenose 1/64 scale. Looking at the strake just below the waist, the planks take a twist, heading back towards the stern. There is no "curve" needed for the plank and a batten does lie flat, but it looks like it will take a 45 degree twist in the plank to get it to lie flat by the time it reaches the stern bulkheads and transom. I have read through the instructions and the planking tutorials and didn't see that issue mentioned. Am I missing something?
  11. I have just started my first plank on bulkhead kit, MS Bluenose. It is also the first time I have dealt with laser cut parts. Does the char from the laser cut need to be sanded off? I wondered if you will get the same strength glue bond with the charred wood left in place.
  12. Thanks Sal, I appreciate the drawing, as long as the scaling is on or close the PDF will be fine. I have been lucky enough to able to leave AutoCad to others. Marty
  13. Sal I am about to start planking the deck on my Phantom. Your deck plans look perfect. ( I think that only an engineer could produce it or appreciate what it takes to draft it.) Would you be willing to share the PDF of that drawing? I read the forum download article on deck planking and liked the look of the crossmarkings of the individual planks on every 5 rows. So...I am trying to plank it with individual planks. I have cut the scribed sheet into 15 foot scale lengths and then used the scribed marks to cut the sheet into individual planks sanding the edges smooth. I did a trial lay
  14. Sal I also recently started this kit and have been following your build. Thank you for taking the time to post all of this. As a newbie, even with the the practicum and the instructions there are always still alot of details that seem to be left out. Your descriptions and questions are helping to fill alot of those gaps. I am still coppering the hull. As I have been working on it I found that some of the corners of the plates will lift. Have you been seeing much of that as you have been working through the rest of the build? I am just wondering if it would be better to seal the co
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