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    Rockville, MD, USA

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  1. The Dover edition that I picked up at Mystic (which is listed as an unabridged version of the 1928 text) is renamed for reasons that I don't understand. It has the diagrams and paintings, but at significantly reduced size and resolution, and only 4 of the illustrations are reproduced in color (2 each on the inside front and back covers). It's a nice start and has a lot of useful descriptive information. George K
  2. Coppering is complete. These first two photos show how I used the tape on the gore line to define the point where to stop the copper so that the next row above the gore line will sit neatly. And here is a view from above showing the starboard side mostly completed and the port side approaching the gore line. Once the second band of plates was begun, I put another line of tape on the ship with the tape centered over the load water line. It was there so I could copper up to the tape, have decent overlap, and still have a small amount of the black paint showing when I put the cap row into place. Finally, two views of the coppered hull, port and starboard. I used the kit supplied tape to cover the keel, figuring that the extra width wasn't a major issue, and used narrower (3/16"), black backed Venture tape that I got from a stained glass supply store for everything else as it was much closer to scale. The Venture tape is much better tape than the kit supplied tape. If I do another MSW kit, I'm throwing out the kit supplied tape as soon as I open it up. Next steps will be the rudder (so I can be done with copper), and the coamings that support the after deck house on the main deck (the only ones that I didn't install prior to planking). As always, thanks for looking in and the likes! Special thanks to Rob for his method which I adjusted to fit my needs. George K.
  3. Good to get the right name. The term I used came off the Model Shipways plans for the Constitution
  4. Well, a brief note. We were at Mystic Seaport and the Charles W. Morgan was out of the water on blocks getting some restoration work, including, it appears, its copper. Here are a couple of pictures of the ship on blocks and her copper. First, the whole ship. Her copper, fore and aft. I note that in contrast to the way it was described in the Fish instructions, the lower layers seem to overlay the upper belts. I also note that the copper is cut around the gudgeon, rather than being mounted on top of the copper. This makes sense, but I hadn't thought about it looking at models. Other observations. The foremast chain plates have backing links, the main and mizzenmast do not. The mizzen is smaller, so that makes sense, but why is the fore different? Extra strain from the jibs? The man at the museum didn't know. If you want to look at the Morgan's spars, now us the time. They are out for all to examine in forensic detail. And, I got a copy of this book! George K
  5. The plans had the gore line marked, which I assume was Ben Lankford's (probably excellent) assessment of where to put it. Transferring it from the side views to the three dimensional object would be a pain, so I located the line on the stem and stern and laid the tape out so that it would flow naturally, thinking that such a flow was the whole point of the change of direction. It looks consistent with the plans, but since they are just guesses anyway, it seemed good enough for me.
  6. What Rob said. I'm going to cut the ends of the plates at the gore line so that it will leave an uncoppered section that follows the tape, and then the Tamiya tape line will become the first line of plates in the next row with a changed direction
  7. Hello! There are a few others working on this kit, although I think we are all mostly behind you at the moment. @Keithbrad80 has a log, as do I. Welcome to the forum!
  8. Just a brief update, as we are about to go on vacation and then I need to return one of my children to college, so no updates for a couple of weeks. Coppering is proceeding apace, but even at 6 tiles per segment, I still have a way to go. The yellow Tamiya tape represents the first line of plates in the second belt (i.e. the bottom of the tape - or rather the top of the tape in these pictures) represents the gore line. Stay safe out there, and thanks for looking in and the well wishes. George K
  9. Wow. I would have expected the wheel to be inside somewhere (like the Monitor) rather than out in the open. I imagine that it would be an, ah, uncomfortable place during combat.
  10. Very brief progress update. I decided to use the 1/4 inch copper tape to cover the keel. The picture below shows the jig I made to mark the plates for cutting. The individual plates are 9/32 long, are scored with a pizza cutter. The individual plates were cut out and applied in 1/4 inch segments to the keel as below. I allowed the plates to flow onto the hull since they would be covered up by the regular plates later. Once that was complete, I made another jig that feeds two 3/16 rolls of copper tape and has two guides for the pizza cutter so that I can make 4 plates at a time, pull it through, make two more plates, etc. as seen below. The 'plates' are 3/16 by 1/2, or at 1:96 they are 18 by 48 inches. That makes them a little taller than the 14 by 48 inch plates that are called for in the plans, but I question my ability to manipulate anything smaller. Finally I cut 6 plate segments and start laying out the regular plate segments, starting at the stern and aligning against the keel. The picture below shows two incomplete rows on the starboard side, but you get the basic idea. I am using the self-adhesive, rather than using Rob's method of gluing the paper backed tape. It seems to be working okay, although I definitely get more 'scrunching' than Rob's method produces. Once I get a little further, I'll mark the gore line with Tamiya tape so that I know where to stop. I expect that this is going to take a while, but it's more about perseverance at this point - kinda like making ratlines. As you can see, I've gone for the simple look, with the plate divisions marked by using the pizza cutter on the visible, rather than the paper backing side. This produces plate separators that are lowered rather than raised, and is a bit less obvious, but still definitely there. I am also going to suggest that the imperfections in the plate laying are giving it the surface interest that is usually formed as a result of the nailing. In any case, that is my story and I'm sticking with it. Thanks for looking in! George K
  11. Looking great. None of the three MSW kits I've done or am working on provide many castings. I think the boundary condition for providing a casting is "can't be readily made with hand tools". That's fine with me, and it seems to be a distinction with some other manufacturers. George K
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