6ohiocav

Chainplates and Deadeyes.
 
I am getting things in order to install the channels. That means stropping (?) the deadeyes. I am not sure if that is the right term.
 
I used a 24 gauge black wire.  Picking up a tip on this forum, I experimented with different sized wire rings which when crimped, created the proper shape of the wired deadeyes. I ended up using a ¼ inch dowel rod to wrap the wire around to get my circles.
 
I cut them, then soldered the ends, and carefully crimped the middle. I broke the solder joint on about 1/3 of them, but was able to crank out the required 20.
 
I also worked on the bottom chainplate that attaches to the hull with carriage bolts (pins). I tried different ideas.  I started making them out of the same 24 gauge black wire by wrapping it around a pin jig, then soldering the middle, leaving the holes at each end.  I did not like how it looked, and it took way to long.  This is a very small piece.
 
 
I then decided to take a different approach.  Starting with a 1mm brass rod, I flattened the end with a metal punch, and drilled a small hole with the pin vice.  I then cut the rod to size using a jig to measure, and flattened and drilled the other end.  I then blackened the piece.  This worked reasonably well and look like the chainplates in the plans.  I turned out 20 of these. 
 
I still have to make the wire parts, but believe that will go smoother, since it is a simple wire wrap.  I have to work on the deadeyes for the stays, and based on suggestions from this forum, will mount the completed deadeyes on the channels that I have created (still need painted) before attaching the assemblies to the hull.
 
Here are some photos showing the deadeye work.

And here are some photos of the lower chainplate assembly

Ken,
 
thanks for stopping in and "shining some light" on the topic.
 
I love your grist mill. I was hoping to order some good NC corn meal when it is done!

Great question and one that I have given some thought to.
 
I use a desk lamp on a movable arm (with a magnifying lense that I rarely use) with an incandescent bulb on my left. On the right, I have another desk lamp with a shade and normal bulb. My den has an overhead light that I can use as well.  Combined, I can almost eliminate the shadows created by my fat fingers, which to me is the biggest problem. I work during the day and do most of my model work at night, so lighting is always a concern.
 
Since starting this project, I have had to upgrade my reading glasses from a 1X to a 2X. I consider that a battle casualty.
 
An interesting side story.  Earlier this month, we had a power outage.  I think I was rolling rope coils, and decided to finish up using candle light. Thought I would experience what it was like in the 19th century.

Oh, I forgot. Make sure you strop a cold one once in a while to heal the eyes and brain.

Mike,
 
I don't know if this will help, or if indeed you are doing it this way, but I did the task systematically.  That is,
 
1. I made all of my eyebolts at one time (170).
 
2. I then seized all of my tackle loops at one time (80).
 
3. Then stropped all of the single blocks with loops and hooks at one time(80),
 
4. Then the double blocks with hooks (80).
 
5. I then seized all the eyebolts to the breech lines and passed them through the sled and carronade rings and seized the other end to an eyebolt.
 
6. I installed all of the eyebolts into the bulwarks and waterways.
 
Doing these tasks separately gets you into a rhythm, and you get efficient doing it. Only after assembling all of the component parts did I start going down the line to install the guns on the deck carriages.
 
Regardless, seeing all of that intricate handy work blossom on to the deck is worth the effort.  I still have those "did I actually do that" moments. 

I drilled two small holes.  My crew is glad that it can remove the water from the leaky hull! 
 
I have not glued the pump down on the deck yet.  I may wait a while.  This thing is very delicate. One bump, and I think the handle will completely fall apart.
 
How is the "stropping'?

Joel,
 
Your Lexington Rudder is a work of art. That does not look like a laser cut part. What type of wood is it made from.

Bilge Pump
 
This little project taxed all of my amateur skills. Carving, painting, metal work, and soldering. It took two evenings.
 
I started by milling some 1/8 inch square cherry bar stock to make the bits. I filed the chamfers with a micro half round file. Created the base, painted it gun stock red, and glued up the top.
 
Using the bar stock, I formed the rectangular metal band using the 1mm brass straps from the kit. I carefully soldered the ends together, filed and then blackened it.
 
I then worked on the center rod, and the “U” shaped bracket.  I used .05mm brass rods. For the bracket, I flattened both ends of a 3/8 inch length, I carefully bent it with my round nose pliers.
 
Soldering the base of the bracket to the end of a .05mm rod was a real challenge.  I clamped down the rod on top of a granite tile, and attached the U bracket to a pieces of scrap wood that I could hold in my left hand against the end of the rod.  That freed my right hand to do the soldering.  Getting it to line up square was the real challenge. Believe it or not, I actually did it right the FIRST time.
 
Once done, I cut the small black plates for the wooden handle.  I then blackened the plates and the center rod and bracket.
 
I carved the bilge handle out of cherry.  I inserted two of the small brass eye bolts from the kit on the bottom of the handle and attached two sections of 24 gauge black wire for the drivers. I drilled holes on top of the bits to accept the driving wire.
 
Once all of the components were done, I assembled them all together with medium CA. 
 
Here are some photos of the process.

I was able to reuse the gudgeons.
 
I just used Medium CA. I know it is not the preferred method of attaching brass to wood, but it holds well enough for this non moving part.  Besides, it came in handy when I had to remove them for the rework.
 
I have not decided how to attach the pinions to the painted ship hull. Any thoughts on how to remove the small sliver of paint needed for the brass strap without marring the adjoining surface. I only have to scrape a thin strip of paint. I thought about cutting a razor blade to width and using it like a chisel.
 
I came across the same challenge when I glue the pin rails to the painted bulwarks. I hacked the heck out of the surface and spent time repainting around the rails

Rudder and Tiller
 
​​Thanks to Joel's keen eye, I have reworked the rudder by carving the taper.  I also rounded the top and carved the tiller out of cherry. As I am replacing all non painted kit laser cut parts with my own creations, more time is added to the build.  However, in the case of the tiller, the fact that I left the unfinished part attached to the cherry stock actually made the fine carving easier. carving the octagon and then creating the rounded end would have been rather tedious on such a small delicate part.  Using the stock cherry stick as a handle helped.
 
As soon as I get the rudder painted, I will be installing the entire system.
 
Here are some shots.  

Ken,
 
What are the rings for on the sides of your carronades? Are they for a separate set of gun tackles, or for the breeching line?

Ken,
 
thanks for stopping in and "shining some light" on the topic.
 
I love your grist mill. I was hoping to order some good NC corn meal when it is done!

Great question and one that I have given some thought to.
 
I use a desk lamp on a movable arm (with a magnifying lense that I rarely use) with an incandescent bulb on my left. On the right, I have another desk lamp with a shade and normal bulb. My den has an overhead light that I can use as well.  Combined, I can almost eliminate the shadows created by my fat fingers, which to me is the biggest problem. I work during the day and do most of my model work at night, so lighting is always a concern.
 
Since starting this project, I have had to upgrade my reading glasses from a 1X to a 2X. I consider that a battle casualty.
 
An interesting side story.  Earlier this month, we had a power outage.  I think I was rolling rope coils, and decided to finish up using candle light. Thought I would experience what it was like in the 19th century.

Oh, I forgot. Make sure you strop a cold one once in a while to heal the eyes and brain.

Mike,
 
I don't know if this will help, or if indeed you are doing it this way, but I did the task systematically.  That is,
 
1. I made all of my eyebolts at one time (170).
 
2. I then seized all of my tackle loops at one time (80).
 
3. Then stropped all of the single blocks with loops and hooks at one time(80),
 
4. Then the double blocks with hooks (80).
 
5. I then seized all the eyebolts to the breech lines and passed them through the sled and carronade rings and seized the other end to an eyebolt.
 
6. I installed all of the eyebolts into the bulwarks and waterways.
 
Doing these tasks separately gets you into a rhythm, and you get efficient doing it. Only after assembling all of the component parts did I start going down the line to install the guns on the deck carriages.
 
Regardless, seeing all of that intricate handy work blossom on to the deck is worth the effort.  I still have those "did I actually do that" moments. 

I drilled two small holes.  My crew is glad that it can remove the water from the leaky hull! 
 
I have not glued the pump down on the deck yet.  I may wait a while.  This thing is very delicate. One bump, and I think the handle will completely fall apart.
 
How is the "stropping'?

Joel,
 
Your Lexington Rudder is a work of art. That does not look like a laser cut part. What type of wood is it made from.

Bilge Pump
 
This little project taxed all of my amateur skills. Carving, painting, metal work, and soldering. It took two evenings.
 
I started by milling some 1/8 inch square cherry bar stock to make the bits. I filed the chamfers with a micro half round file. Created the base, painted it gun stock red, and glued up the top.
 
Using the bar stock, I formed the rectangular metal band using the 1mm brass straps from the kit. I carefully soldered the ends together, filed and then blackened it.
 
I then worked on the center rod, and the “U” shaped bracket.  I used .05mm brass rods. For the bracket, I flattened both ends of a 3/8 inch length, I carefully bent it with my round nose pliers.
 
Soldering the base of the bracket to the end of a .05mm rod was a real challenge.  I clamped down the rod on top of a granite tile, and attached the U bracket to a pieces of scrap wood that I could hold in my left hand against the end of the rod.  That freed my right hand to do the soldering.  Getting it to line up square was the real challenge. Believe it or not, I actually did it right the FIRST time.
 
Once done, I cut the small black plates for the wooden handle.  I then blackened the plates and the center rod and bracket.
 
I carved the bilge handle out of cherry.  I inserted two of the small brass eye bolts from the kit on the bottom of the handle and attached two sections of 24 gauge black wire for the drivers. I drilled holes on top of the bits to accept the driving wire.
 
Once all of the components were done, I assembled them all together with medium CA. 
 
Here are some photos of the process.

Rudder and Tiller
 
​​Thanks to Joel's keen eye, I have reworked the rudder by carving the taper.  I also rounded the top and carved the tiller out of cherry. As I am replacing all non painted kit laser cut parts with my own creations, more time is added to the build.  However, in the case of the tiller, the fact that I left the unfinished part attached to the cherry stock actually made the fine carving easier. carving the octagon and then creating the rounded end would have been rather tedious on such a small delicate part.  Using the stock cherry stick as a handle helped.
 
As soon as I get the rudder painted, I will be installing the entire system.
 
Here are some shots.  

​
Rudder Assembly
 
 I worked on the rudder assembly.  To do that, I had to create the gudgeons and pins.  I used the brass straps from the kit.  I also bought some brass tubing and some brass pins that fit snuggly in the tubing.
 
For the female rudder brackets, I molded the strap metal with my pliers.  I then attached the finished U shaped strap to a strip wood clamp, and soldered the end of my tubing flush with one end of the strap.  I then cut off the other end and filed the excess.
 
For the male keel brackets, I did the same thing, then soldered a length of brass pin inside the tube and cut to size.
 
I used yellow glue drops to simulate bolt heads, and glued the straps to the rudder. The entire assembly was set aside for black paint, and once painted, I will attach it to the ship.  Here are some photos.
 
I also found time to work on the stern.  I finally lined the stern gun ports with red painted strip wood.  That was a tedious project, seeing that I could not sand the edges after installing without completely ruining the finish on the bulwark. I therefore had to make sure they fit perfectly before installing.  I do like the look however. 
 
Since I had to get out the red and green paint for the stern, I used it as an opportunity to do some much needed touch up work around the ship.
 
I also drilled the hole to accept the top of the rudder.  I located the hole where I thought it needed to be, only to get it wrong.  It needed to be as far back against the bulwark as I could place it.  I now have a larger hole than I would like, but feel that I can create a frame piece to cover it up that should look ok. I will add some photos later tonight for those of you that plan on cutting this hole in the future.
 
I am just about ready to open up the paint booth.  I have worked on all of the parts that need to be painted black, and since I believe I now have them done (including rough channels), I should be ready to break out the air brush.  On the list for black paint – Masts, trees, yards, gaffs, bowsprit, rudder and hinges, channels and some trim pieces.  All of that hard work now threatened to be tarnished by a mediocre paint job. Wish me luck.

​Installation of Fife Rails, Pin Rails, Catheads, Boat Davits and Forward Bits
 
​​I finally got around to installing some of the deck furniture that I created over the months and have been storing at the shipyard.
 
I built the Fife Rails out of cherry months ago, and somehow during storage, I lost one of the cross sections for the foremast fife rail. I will have to rebuild it. I pinned and glued the posts with medium CA. It was quite a chore to position them to keep them plumb and square. All by line of sight. 
 
I scrapped my initial pin rails that I built out of basswood and painted red.  I did not like the paint finish. So I rebuilt them out of cherry and finished them with poly. It took a while to scrape the paint from the bulwark. I glued them on with medium CA.  I still have to add the wire support brackets.
 
I glued the catheads in place with medium CA.  I have to add the wire support and knees.I also installed the stern Boat Davits.  All were made out of cherry 
 
I temporarily put the bowsprit in place, and glued the forward bits that hold the bowsprit in place.  I pinned and used medium CA. Getting them to line up plumb and to fit the notch at the end of the bowsprit was a challenge.  I realized that I will have to work on that notch some to make it fit right.
 
I finished all of the cherry parts in a flat poly.  I also finally put a coat of finish on the main rail. I cut them out of cherry as well and I am very happy with the look. 
 
Then I ran into a bit of an issue.  I placed the three stern skylights in place and realized just how cramped the rear portion of the deck is. It reminded me of a tip that Josh sent to me a while back about the interference these structures will have with the capstan. Now that I have positioned them in place, I can fully appreciate this point.  How on earth will my 1:64 scale crewmen operate the darn thing with all of the braces in place. There is absolutely no room to turn it.  Also, the rear skylight is only about 1/4 inch from the rear of my stern carronades, which gives me no room at all to install inhaul tackles.
 
I don't know if I am going to simply lay them down as is, or perhaps only use two, and if so, which ones, or eliminate them altogether. I set them on the deck in the following photos.
 
I will say this.  It is starting to look like a real ship, at least without masts and yards.

​Rope Coils
 
​I decided to clean up the deck of all of the loose tackle ropes and create rope coils.  I perused this forum for techniques and found a bunch of different approaches.  I pretty easily discarded the notion of rolling the existing lines on the deck. They will not stay rolled without a solution of water and glue, and the deck is not the place for that mess.  Besides, the intricate locations for the lines made it nearly impossible anyway.
 
I therefore decided to roll them off the ship.  I used a 50/50 solution of white glue and water.  I thoroughly submerged a 3 inch piece of rope, using inverted sharp point tweezers to grip the very end.  I rolled the rope on a glass plate.  I found that as long as the rope stayed in the small puddle of glue solution, it would stay down on the glass, and it would allow me to roll the rope and stay flat.
 
Extracting the tweezers without pulling the inside rope end out of the coil was a challenge. I accomplished it by using the back end of an x-acto knife and slipping it gently between the two ends of the tweezers and holding the coil down as I pulled the tweezers away.
 
I also learned that you CANNOT touch the coil until it is completely dry - and I mean 5 hours dry. The watered down solution takes forever to dry, and it is so sticky, any attempt to touch it before so simply ruins it. Patience, patience, patience.
 
By the way, I will say again that the Syren rope is an outstanding product. It rolled very well.  The kit supplied rope was too stiff and would not stay rolled, even when soaked with the glue/water. Of course, I ran out of rope again, and will be placing another order to replenish my shipyard stores.
 
Laying them on the deck wasn't easy either. I placed a medium drop of medium CA on the deck, and carefully positioned the end rope of the tackle in such a place that made it look like it merged into the coil.  I then dropped the coil down on the end of the rope. Not always an easy task with all of the enclosed places.
 
What I reasonable thought would take an afternoon took most of three days. Here are some photos of the finished product.

Rob,
 
Forgive me, but I did not realize you were from Charlestown. By all means, let it be The Constitution.
 
Technically, it is not necessarily more complicated than smaller ships.  The basic skills are about the same. It is the volume that gets you.  The Conny has a lot more "stuff" Tony's points are well said. Determination will get you there. 

I can tell you exactly what happened before this forum. I was a big modeler in my younger days, but had never built a wooden planked ship.  In the late 80"s, I purchased Artesania's La Toulonnaise. I never got passed the initial stern and transom construction.  I got lost in the poorly translated instructions and with no help in sight, abandoned the project. This site renewed my interest in ship building, and has given me the courage to re-enter the water.
 
Good luck with whatever you decide.