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abelson

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About abelson

  • Birthday 01/14/1949

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    Rhode Island

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    sesylven@verizon.net

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  1. On to Chapter 17. I had previously drilled the holes for and rough cut the 5/32” dowels for the fore and main masts back in Chapter 7. I had drilled the holes 1” deep. Before cutting the dowels down to size, I inserted each dowel into the predrilled hole and marked the top of the deck on each dowel. I scaled the length of the masts on Sheet 5 from the top of the deck to the top of the mast cap (Fore Mast: 8 13/16”, Main Mast: 9 9/16”). I cut the dowels longer to allow from inserting the dowel into my drill chuck for tapering the masts to about 3/16” at the top, as measured on Sheet 5. After ta
  2. I like the bands on the spars - a nice addition. I think I'll copy you when I reach that stage. Looking good. You better slow down or you'll be starting your next build soon. haha.
  3. This being April Fool's Day, it's no joke that I made progress on the the ship. But, as a matter of note, one thing that I’ve learned in model ship building is that Murphy’s Law - "Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong" - is ever present. With that aside, I’m continuing with Chapter 16. I glued the bowsprit in-place and allowed it to dry sufficiently before gammoning. I set up the gammoning with .021 black line, made the eye, thread the loose end through the eye and then rove it through the gammon hole. I found this to be somewhat difficult, mostly because the head rails block your view. I
  4. Excellent craftsmanship. Very clean and crisp work, and attention to detail.
  5. Well, we've come to see excellent work from you. So, it's repetitive to say excellent work. But, anyway, excellent work. I enjoy your posts. I'm not too far behind you, and I refer to your log often as I advance my build.
  6. Chapter 16 – Bowsprit, Jibboom, and Flying Jibboom. The bowsprit was previously completed when I was working on Chapter 13 (see Page 2). The next step is the jibboom. The jibboom was made per the instructions using a 5/32” diameter dowel shaped as shown on the plans. This was a fairly easy task. The most difficult part is creating the octagonal shape at the inboard end of the jibboom. To simulate the iron band on the jibboom, I used a piece of 1/16” wide black pinstripe tape, secured it with CA, and painted it black. The flying jibboom was made from a 1/8” diameter dowel as per the
  7. I laid the netting out and weighted it down to remove the folds. Before getting into the netting, I decided to make the rudder pendants. This was a fairly easy task. I removed one eyebolt from the rudder and attached it to the pendant chain. I inserted the eyebolt with chain into the rudder and then let the chain drape to simulate the photo in the instructions. I then cut the chain. It measures 12’ at 3/16” scale (roughly 2.5”). I then removed the eyebolt on the opposite side of the rudder, attached it to the chain and then cut the chain to the same length. I secured a ring made from 28 gauge
  8. Completed the sweeps. I shaped them by hand-sanding. The amount of sanding is a matter of perfection and what meets your eye, nonetheless, a lot of sanding is necessary. I stained the sweeps Golden Oak, coated them with poly, and lashed them together in bundles of eight (8) with .018 tan rigging line. Each bundle was lashed to its respective chock – this was a little tricky. For the lashing ropes, I made an eye on one end and seized the line. I passed the loose end of the rope through the eye, wrapped it around the bundle, passed it through the eye on the chock, seized it with a simple overha
  9. Nice rebound on fixing the hawes holes. I had a difficult time with this task too. I'm glad you checked that the 0.062” cables will pass. I didn't check mine and, consequently, had to ream the holes. In the process of doing that I damaged the hawes hole guides and had to re-do them. It's a learning process. Your ship looks great.
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