Trussben

It appears to me that you have sanded the bottom of the lower counter too much, it’s easy to check - look at the plans at the stern section or print out the frieze for that area and hold it to the counter to see if you need to make adjustments, better now than when you come to plank and find it’s wrong.

That looks beautiful Chuck, you are raising the bar yet again.

After cleaning up, the foot of each frame was carefully paired down with a chisel and offered up to the model until a correct height was achieved, then glued back into place and new spacers made and added.
From the pics you can see that they are now in their correct positions and no problem fairing them in should now occur.
Now back to making the last of the aft cants and the aftmost gunport.
 
Ben

Offending spacers and then frames have been removed carefully with the aid of isoproponal, a little bit of clean up to remove old glue residue is needed and then they will be refit.
 
Ben

Well just arrived home from working away, threw my bags through the door and went strait down to the workshop to look at the issues with some of my aft cant frames, Druxey hit the bullseye and my port frames 2&3 are sitting high compared to the starboard side ones!
 
Starboard frames do not show any problems and the height of breadths are dead on, the first pic shows the astern view of the starboard side from below, the second shows the problem port side internally and shows the frames sitting high compared to other frames.
 
So this weekend I will break out the isopropanol and move the frames down as suggested by Druxey.
It's great to get sage advice that saves your *** on this site, Druxey - I owe you the adult libation of your choice if we ever meet.
 
Ben

Here are some pics of aft cant frames 8 thru 10 installed.
Making up the last 3 frames now.
 
Ben

Here are the first seven aft cant frames made and installed, I've decided to carry on and make the other 6 and install them before moving forward to the bollard timbers, hawse pieces and fore cants unless someone can give me a reason not to.
Working away this next week so no progress will be made.
 
Ben

Thanks Andy, yeh this is the fun part tangeling with pesky cant frames that don't want to line up, had to remove one side of frame 3 as it decided to move position while the glue dried!!
 
Here is aft cant pair #4 installed, just need to install the temp spacers.
 
Ben

Aft Cant frames 2 & 3 installed using some scrap basswood sized and shaped to fit as temporary spacers at the frame tops.
 
Ben

And one side of the second aft cant frame being adjusted for fit.
 
Ben

Well here is the first aft cant frame installed.
 
Ben

Thanks Rusty, Mark, Grant and everybody for the likes.
 
Mark - I know the picture looks silly, sometimes I feel like destroying my phone but I wouldn't want to damage my precious Byrnes Sander.
 
Anyway - the stern transoms have all been fitted and pinned in place successfully! I had left the ends of the transoms slightly overlength so I could fair them back to suit the aft cant frame which is what I'm doing now and I have started cutting aft cants 1 thru 7 out of 9" stock.
 
Ben

Thanks for the Likes everybody.
 
Druxey - already been done, after that picture I marked the bolts and trimmed them down to a perfect size, see first pic.
 
I have predrilled all of the transoms before fitting for pinning with bamboo treenails, I used a #65 drill bit and drew bamboo down to #35 hole in the Byrnes plate, this is not to scale but just for reinforcement purposes.
 
Then the 4th transom was installed and pinned, making sure that it lined up with the buildboard markings as well as the heights above the keel bottom as measured from the mylar plan. I am deviating from the TFFM description of installing the transoms which would have the wing transom installed first, I am going to install the 4th first, then the fashion pieces below it, this should give me a solid bottom reference point, then I will install the wing transom which will give me the top point, and then install the transoms in between. Hopefully this works out like I envision.
 
Now on to the fashion pieces, they were cut out of 9" stock oversized slightly by 1/32" outside the lines, then I setup the Byrnes sander to excatly 29.5 degrees using an app on my Iphone, the angles were sanded and then the pieces refined until a perfect fit was achieved under transom 4. I drilled them ready for pinning and then glued in place using a square to make sure it was perpendicular ( the picture doesnt look like its correct but it is! ) you can see how the square matches the correct line on the buildboard.
 
ben.
 
 

Very slight but very important progress has been made this week, the buildboard has had all the frame lines scribed into it and the acrylic frames and keel holders have been screwed on.
I used the plan to mark points at all the frame intersections with a sharp awl, the the plan was reversed to do the other side. Then the points were joined using a steel rule and a sharp exacto blade, then graphite was rubbed into the scores and then cleaned off and the surface scraped with a razor to leave a smooth surface. It took several hours but came out matching the plans really well with little deviation.
 
Ben

Here are all the transoms made but they have not been glued and pinned yet, I had to make transom #4 twice as the first one was skewed.
I have finished making the acrylic stands and all I have to do now is finish marking the buildboard before bolting the keel down, then the transoms can be fixed in place.
 
Ben

Hi and thanks for the comments and likes.
 
As well as making the acrylic stands that will hold the stem/stern in place on the buildboard I have also started the stern framing.
 
Here is the all important Wing transom cut out of 18" stock and the 3" roundup sanded in so the piece is 15" all the way across. Now to start the shaping. I have left the ends 1/32 oversize to allow adjustment with the cant frame.
 
Ben

Thanks Druxey!
 
Here are the 3 pieces of rising wood complete with scarph joints being glued to the keel. I am not going to notch them for the frames like I did on the Echo as it won't be seen.
Tomorrow I shall start marking out and cutting the rabbet and finish shaping the deadwood into the sternpost.
 
Ben

The sternpost has been glued and pinned to the keel and aft deadwood now, I have to finish refining the shape back there and then I will start making the rising wood pieces.
 
Ben

Work on the sternpost has begun, complicated lining up with aft deadwood but moving along slowly is fine by me.
 
Ben

Work on the aft deadwood is well underway, also started the sternposts.
 
Ben

Hi,
 
I will be starting my second scratch build and I chose HMS Pegasus 1776, Swan Class sloop, using the plans from Admiralty models and all four volumes of the TFFM books by David & Greg. Also a full set of plans was bought from NMM and the wood package from Hobbymill in Swiss Pear wood with some highlighting in Boxwood.
I intend to leave her mainly in frame with a small amount of external planking - maybe from wales up, and will be using fully chocked joints and correct framing using the Disposition of frames plan. Internally I'm thinking of only framing Upper Decks with some planking, possibly the lower deck but just framing. Depending on how I feel when I get to that point will be the decision on Rigging her.
 
I include pictures of the main keel parts completed, halving joints were used and cut on the JimSaw, the forward keel piece with the boxing joint was cut from larger stock on the scrollsaw and the joint was chiseled out with care.
 
This will be slow starting as I am in the middle of rebuilding my workshop and I am also going to be working on my Confederacy when I need a rest from Pegasus.
 
Here begins another journey.
 
ben

A Small Update, Keel has been completed and false keel added, I like the contrast between the swiss pear and the boxwood, now I have started on the stem pieces.
 
ben
 
EDIT - Added missing picture back that was lost. 4-2-14

It appears to me that you have sanded the bottom of the lower counter too much, it’s easy to check - look at the plans at the stern section or print out the frieze for that area and hold it to the counter to see if you need to make adjustments, better now than when you come to plank and find it’s wrong.

If it's just a bow section, 1:36 may have better details, but as the full kit of the first POF project, I think 1:48 can be considered because many modelers will put her and winchelea side by side, the same scale is better. Moreover, POF projects are very complex,  smaller projects are undoubtedly a wise choice (they can be developed faster).
 
In addition, if I am lucky enough to cooperate with Chuck one more time, I hope do better than last time.

Au natural for me, the friezes are enough of a contrast with the hull.