Trussben

And finally it all comes together by Adding the upper balcony panel. This is a bit tricky and requires everything before it to go well. 
 
The panel is 1/32 AYC and designed to fit over the QG’s and stern framing, it’s pretty delicate so be careful. 

start by clamping the panel on one
side at a time, making sure it fits around the windows. It should have a snug fit right over them as they protrude out of the QG slightly. You may also need to do some minor trimming at the bottom so they fit on top of the balcony beam. That 1/32 ledge behind the QG is exactly for this purpose. 

above you’ll also notice that I have the cove installed, I finally decided to print this along with the aft deck beam for the poop deck. This fits into some notches in the stern frames. 

I installed a temporary beam
to maintain the measurement between the two stern frames where the printed cove/beam install, I should have done this before I installed the QG’s it would have made things much easier, thankfully it was only about 1mm out so I pushed the ends in and quickly glued down the piece of scrap.

above you can see where the printer beam fits into the notches. It should sit at its proper angle. CA works best when attaching printed parts.
 
once satisfied with the fit, I pulled the balcony panel off and painted the beam red, we will Be adding an AYC margin plank to the top of the beam shortly.

I also painted the margins of the window with the blue I’m using to match the friezes, I chose to go on the dark blue side, similar to the contemporary  Bristol model.

With all that completed I set the panel back on and strategized how to attach it. With the arrangement above it wants to lift off on the outboard ends. So I glued all the clamped spots with PVA so I had working time and then once everything was set and clamped I worked the outer edges with CA, I used similar thick pieces of scrap to carefully hold the edges down while the CA set.
Once the panel was secured and drying I attached the upper part of the cove to the panel, if everything went well then it should already be a tight joint, I just let CA flow into it and it set.

now is the inner laminate part of the panel, this just gets us closer to the tidiness we want and stiffens it up. I cut the piece so the grain runs the other way to help it conform. I had to do some very minor trimming to get this to fit. It should drop in nicely. I secured it with PVA and some CA on the edges.

Finally we add the upper beam, this spans the stern frames and will be responsible for holding some knees later on in the build. This is a laminated piece. Way above you can see it in the parts sheet along with the 1/4” MDF jig that will help with providing the correct camber 

Once the beam it ready go ahead
and bevel the end that Fits against the panel until it fits nice. It can be secured with CA. And finally paint it all red.
as you can see once it all was finished I continued with painting the back side of the upper balcony panel blue, in fact the paint is still wet… it’s getting cold in the garage this time of year.
Today I will move onto finishing the upper stern with all the fun carved goodies, the reward for all the hard work.
JJ

Outfitting the QG’s.
 
before I permanently attached the QG’s I painted them and fitted the interiors. You won’t see much but I added some panels and the head, I wanted to hide as much 3D print as possible.
below are the parts to outfit the QG, we have the window frames, the columns and the head. Also I have some etched flooring as well as ceiling panels

in the photos you can see the flooring and overheads going in, along with the toilet. I will cover this more in detail in the instructions.

below we have the lower beam, since it will be visible through the windows I doctored it up with some thin AYC leftover from planking, I added a little shelf that will go over the head.
Before fully attaching the QG, I went ahead and taped off the frieze panel and painted in the red area, this way I don’t have to mask the QG.

after that was completed I went ahead and double checked The fit, made sure to sand down the added panels so they fit against the hull. Once that was completed I attached the QG, I screwed it down and then I pinned it with some copper rod (.040”) and CA.  

once firmly attached I used flush cutters on the soft copper and carefully filed down the rest.
on the back side I just folded the pins over, except where there will
be interior paneling, once the ca cured I flush cut that end as well and filed it down flush.

The rest of the QG outfitting will be completed once the transom is assembled, the molding has
to go on and then the columns can follow. You can also see the drop installed which is pretty straight forward, just a lot of sanding and adjusting until it fits tight.

Some updates:
 
So I started assembling the Q galleries and attaching them to the model. This is a very tricky part of the model and requires a lot of patience and attention. It will be emphasized in the instructions!
 
Begin with fitting the q galley on the model and marking where it needs to be filed to clear the channel wales, 

go ahead and file and sand until the part fits pretty tight against the side of the hull
i had to add a little bit of boxwood strips to the lower edge, my channel wales are probably running a little thick.
Test fit several times and make sure the q galley is sitting down correct on the beams as shown below as well as in the notch on the lower beam.


above You can see how the gallery fits up against the balcony beam. Make sure it’s just like this.
A lot of clearance is required for the channel wale so take Time to file it down right. 

once everything looks good you can make sure that a column fits on the forward lower window as well as the carving, the carving covers up a lot of sins so if you chip and edge of the q gallery don’t stress too much. 

below you can see the balcony beam hangs out about 1/32”, this is required for the transom panel to sit on, later after we get the galleries attached.

above, looking in the lower gallery you can see where the lower beam notch fits into the Q gallery, make sure you have that fit. It needs a little convincing to pop into place sometimes so take your time.
Below is where I drilled a hole to screw the upper part of the gallery down, I used tiny machine screws I found in the hardware store, anything will work as long as it’s small enough. I screwed them down in two places and this is helpful when taking them on and off frequently to test fit.
 

below is where I screwed the lower part, the q gallery has a solid block built into it for accepting a screw. Carefully mark out on the model where it’s located and drill the hole through, carefully mark on the part where to drill and then drill the hole when you take it off.

once the gallery fits well I went and painted the inside, I used an ivory white with some weathering compound to age it a little. Once it’s dry we can begin adding the interior parts. 

Enjoy all the sanding.

I report that the wing transoms are finally glued in place, and now there's a lot of sanding to do.

As for your question
 
 
According to "Steel" and the "Shipbuilders repository" table of scantlings, a 32gun frigate of the time would have had 11 1/2" wide framing,  with a room and space of 27 3/4"
 
So you would have a line of treenails in a row with a gap between them of just under 2.5" ( 11.5 + 11.5 + 2.375 + 2.375 = 27.75 ).
 
On my cutaway section on my Winnie I simplified that to 11" frames with 3" gaps inbetween. Also if you look on the Plans - Chuck showed a section midships above the wales with a treenail pattern that you could just copy.
 
Hope that helps - that would be a lot of treenails to make!

After getting through a multitude of terribly sunny, warm and blue sky days where I just had to force myself to sit out on the back patio, then having yet another health issue I am dealing with, I finally got down to the shop today.

I have my lower guides spot glued and clamped so I’ll be ready to go.

I have all but one of the main wale pieces dry fitted on the bench. The one piece needs to be remade. It is not perfect, but I am aware of my capabilities/limitations and can recognize when my “good enough” has been reached.
 
Now to get that last set remade and start getting them on the model!

Hi guys,
I'm sorry I'm not posting more updates, but there's no end to the housework before winter.
But here's a small preview of what I've done so far.
I took a slightly different approach and did the vertical filler first.
The inner and outer posts is glued together, but  don't yet glued to the bulkhead former.
Then, I laminated the wing transom.
Now, I'm fine-tuning the other transoms...

Made some progress today on the QG install but still working through some bugs, lots of parts in the trash! And I don’t like the color so I’m going to redo the paint work. More on these next week.
 
But I did have a success with the lower counter frieze and the boxwood molding. After some manipulation and multiple prints I think I have it where I want it and it fits pretty good. Some minor trimming required but nothing serious.

NICE!

Some small progress on the QG today. Spent most time designing parts and printing trial and error. Oh and whatever this resin is, it’s absolutely best friends with CA and believe it or not… Tightbond. There will be zero issues attaching things to these and then to the hull.

Great news! glad to hear it.

Chapter 2 complete (mostly)
 
I completed all construction on chapter 2.  I need to spend some more time on sanding and re-applying some wipe on poly.  Pictures below are with 2 coats applied and I didn't wait long enough between coats and the second coat softened the first coat making it too thick and glossy.
 
Down to the last strake on each side.  Showing pretty much all the tools I used for the planking.  Steel ruler, pencil, a #11 blade and a chisel blade, some sanding sticks, and a little water to use with my hand iron for edge setting.  The short scrap of plank is a critical tool used to check the width of two planks butting up to each other.

 
Last plank going in.  Marked the locations of the bullheads and transferred the dimensions using my calipers.  Then slowly sand and check the fit being careful to only remove minimal material each time.

 
I used a flashlight to backlight the planking while I was fairing the hull.  It makes it easy to see when you are getting too thin in a specific area of the hull.  On the second picture showing the stern you can see where a couple of planks have become very thin.  I've also added the stern post.

 
All chapter 2 construction complete and back on the build board.  I need to fabricate a couple more pair of supports but the model is surprisingly stable and level with just the one support midships.

 

 

 
Steve

This week's update.
 
I made better progress than I thought and am down to under 4 strakes on each side to finish.
 
Had a couple false-starts on the garboard, I documented one above and also took a few failed attempts to figure out a method of getting the forward ends of the planks tucked into the lower rabbet at the bow that worked for me.
 
Spending all the time on lining off the hull and working with the tape has paid off.  With only 2-4 plank widths remaking down the length of the hull, I have some pretty consistent spacing on both sides.
 
I've started studying chapter 3 and related work in the build logs.  Looking forward to a new challenge.
 
Steve
 

 

 

 
 

I had plenty of off cuts leftover from planking that just needing a trim so installing the subdecks went extremely quickly.  The supports between the bulkheads all needed to be trimmed about 1/16” so instead of making a best guess how much to trim at each end, I decided to fit the decks at the same time as the companionways.  First order of business was to find the centerline.  I centered a pin as close to the bow and the sternpost as possible.    I then put a small loop in a piece of string and put it over the bow pin.  I made a much larger loop in the other end of the string and put it over the pin at the stern.  Finally, cutting the hole for the rudder helped here as I fed the end of the stern loop through it and then applied tension to it.  This gave me a nice line where the string was centered on the pin rather than wrapping around one side of it.  I used the machinist square to mark the center point every few frames and the ruler to connect these marks.  I have a  straight line down the center that I could key the deck pieces off.  

I made my final adjustments to the false deck and then installed the 2 pieces at the bow.  I found the false decks was shifting a little bit when I was trying to take measurements for the beams and installing those pieces ensured there was no movement and it made tweaking the beams easy.  The forward companionway went extremely smoothly.  I cleaned out the mortises and taped the beams together before cutting and everything was square up and centered on the first try.

I then faired it and installed the center decking (which I forgot to take a picture and this is the final test fitting of the deck before fairing and glueing it down).

I repeated this process with the stern companionway.  This one had a small issue with the aft most beam and required some tweaking to the starboard mortis to get it to seat properly.  The photo is before tweaking and really just involved scraping the mortis a little more.

After adjusting the aft beam and making sure everything was square, I then faired it and installed the final deck pieces. 

The aft companionway is about 1/64" off center, but everything else looks fine.

I assembled the coamings and the aft one requires just a very small adjustment.  I’m not going to touch the opening where the grating will sit.

I’m looking forward to getting the inside of the bulwarks planked as I really struggled with fairing the inside of the frames and twice got so frustrated that I quit for long periods of time.  The inside of the bulwarks are a bit of a mess and there’s going to be some additional fairing especially under the gunports, so for the first layer of spirketting, I think I’m going to focus on small sections under the gunports of just a couple frames at a time.
 

It's about time I updated this.
I've got to the point where I need to do the chain pumps
So I made up the gallows a the bits, painted them and dry fitted, brass rods placed for the height of the previously made brackets.so far so good
Though on this photo the gallows need squaring up with the hatchthe columns are placed

And work continues 
Thanks for all the likes, they are much appreciated.
Cheers

Some very preliminary QG work done tonight. Lots of boxwood had to die for this to happen. New revised windows on an old prototype QG, some messed up columns and oversized moldings. But you get the idea. There’s still much more to these things but this is the basic idea.
 

Great news! glad to hear it.

I start with one of these wonderful dremel tools (everyone should have one) and then move on to a series of thin little block s that I make. And I finish out the gun deck level with this wide foam block that I used on the hull. The little thin sheet blocks are wide enough to span three bulkheads so they keep things even but they are flexible enough to not dig holes.  The curved one helps with getting down to the bottom of the extensions, the little pad with lighter sandpaper helps you keep a grip on it.

The end of chapter 2 or the beginning of chapter 3, however you want to look at it…is just a bunch of sanding. So that’s what I’ve been doing the last couple days. A little paintwork at the bow and some playing around with the beak head parts.
In the meantime I’m printing a revised QG prototype and hope to have a set of them  bolted on later this week, installing and outfitting the QG’s will
be the bulk of chapter 3, along with some other exterior details. More to come soon.
 

Great news! glad to hear it.

Great news! glad to hear it.

This capstan kit will be an open source project.  I will set it all up and add the downloadable stl files for 3d printing and dfx and pdf files for laser cutting.  
 
This group will have 3 sections…
 
1. I will create a build log of the step by step construction of the capstan.
 
2. I will create a build log of sorts for the laser cutting…materials and techniques. 
 
3.  Lastly a brief chat about the 3d printing…what resin I use …dyeing the pieces…i will provide pre supported stl files as well as those without supports.
 
With these technologies becoming more common,  we should have projects like this one.
 
In addition,  I will look for someone in the UK or Europe who wants to produce this as a kit.  To avoid tariffs and steep shipping.  And also someone in the USA to mfg as a kit…for the same reasons.  This way folks who dont have the equipment may get a chance to buy a kit and build it.  
 
I have no interest in making $$$ on the project so those who want to make this as a kit can have the license to do so free of charge and for life.
 
Maybe Chris W and ScrubbyJoe…
 
We shall see.
 
Its a nice fun little project…no more than two weeks to build once you have the parts.
 
Chuck

Great news! glad to hear it.

The business will be able to produce and sell all their machines on or about January 1, 2026 according to Donna when I spoke to her on 10/9/2025.
Currently available:  4” carbide blades with 24 and 36 teeth available for immediate sale.
If you are sure you want a specific tool as soon as it is available send an email to the business email using the Contact Us link on the website https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com
Donna reminded me that the Rope Walk Machine will no longer be produced but that they have most of the small accessories for its operation available.
Kurt