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Stuntflyer

NRG Member
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About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

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    Mount Vernon, NY

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  1. Thanks everyone, Issue solved! I can make a miniature version of the Pioneer marking gauge.
  2. Fixed blocks This weekend seemed to be a good time to get started on the fixed blocks. Six are on the ship with the two really small ones near the transom completed, but off the ship. I'm not sure if I will add them before or after planking that area. I decided to scratch them, using the mill to make the slot between the two holes. When I originally drew in the upper wale location with the hull template, I also marked the location of the blocks. I could have gone with that and it would have been fine. However, since I started the build I've tried to measure off the plan sheet whenever possible. So, here again, that's what I did. I only needed to measure and drill the position of one of the two hole locations for each block. Then it was just a matter of establishing the distance for the second hole while aligning the top of the block parallel to the shear. Here is how I made the tiny rounded shape representing the sheave. It's only .020" deep. Mike
  3. Very nice! That's pretty much how I imagined it would be done. You mentioned that you didnt want to go with shiny metallic copper paint. I wonder how metallic paint would look with Dullcote on top.
  4. Rusty, Chuck, Thank you! Keelson I've been working on the keelson for a while. A little bit here a little bit there while fairing the frames. I went with boxwood as usual and milled scarph joints. I used 30lb (.023) black mono for the bolts. I noticed that the keelson would slip and slide a bit on the frames so I pinned it in two locations. This enabled me to center it port and starboard while saving a lot of eyeballing when gluing it down. Mike
  5. Hull planking, pt. 1 Fairing the outer hull was fairly straight forward. There is plenty of extra meat on the frames which gave me lots of wiggle room. The fairing cap edge should remain untouched, if at all possible. Easier said than done! Final sanding was done with 400 grit. Btw; I totally forgot to take some photos of the outer hull after the fairing was completed. Sorry! Once everything looked good I added the first strake (the upper wale). This was done with three planks. I did my best to eyeball the run as I added each plank and not to strictly rely on the drawn line which I made from Chuck's hull template. From there on it was just a matter of adding the two remaining wale strakes and a few more strakes above the upper wale. I also added the small filler piece which goes between the lower wale and the square tuck. With the added support given by these strakes, I decided to fair the inner hull. This ended up being more time consuming than I thought it would be. It took me several days to complete the work. Working the bow timbers, even with a Dremel or 80 grit, was slow. Once I was close I switched to a miniature curved scraper to smooth out the work. You can see just how thick the wood was in places. When fairing the area around the lower gun port sills, I found that a simple depth gauge came in handy. Including the 3/64" outer hull planking, the width of the sill should be 3/16” or maybe a hair less. I made this simple “T” shaped jig that I could place against the frames and then mark the width of the sill from inside the hull. Ready for the keelson Mike
  6. Chuck, very nice! Quick question. Is that bulkhead removable so that it will go in after the deck is laid?
  7. My apologies for not at first seeing Bob Cleek's post above and only those below his. My objective was to find the tool that would pencil mark the center at any width and be able to draw a center line over the length of wood. It appears that the Lee valley one, although not auto centering, would be the type I was looking for. It has the ability to mark and draw a center line even if the wood has a curve to it.
  8. Gregory, I like the tool. I'm also wondering if the smallest one would work. I'll wait a bit to see if there is a smaller version out there.
  9. Thanks, Kauz. I've seen that before. I was just wondering if there was a manufactured center line marker available online.
  10. Rather than using a compass, is there a small tool which can be purchased online to draw a center line down the length on 1/4"-1/2" wood strip? Thanks, Mike
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