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Stuntflyer

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About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

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    Mount Vernon, NY

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  1. Don, I like to use wood strips about 1/16" x 3/8" x 10". I adhere sticky back sandpaper to one side that's usually around 180 grit. Works great for doing those long stretches along the hull. For the stern and bow areas I use rounded soft-sanders. http://www.softsanders.com/products/wood Mike
  2. Looking good, Don. Take your time fairing those bulkheads and use the remaining char as a guide while doing so. There won't be much of it left after you are done. Mike
  3. Thank you all! No secret regarding the "perfect spirals". Those are laser etched by the master himself, Chuck. Mike
  4. Chapter three is still a work in progress. I added the friezes to the ship. The sides of the hull were done in sequence while adding the middle molding along the waste and the laser etched molding along the forecastle and quarter deck. The QGallery roofs were painted dark gray and work has started on the QGallery columns and roof rail. The friezes were cut out with the aid of long ships curves. This worked out quite well and I can think of only one edge that had to be done by eye. For adhesion, I used the Elmers School glue stick. When using the stick, I made several passes over the frieze. I wanted to use enough glue to allow for positioning of the frieze before the glue starts to set which can happen quickly if applied to sparingly. 3-4 passes should be about right. A sharp #11 blade and a clean planking edge makes easy work of cutting the friezes around the inner edge of the gun ports, but only after the glue has dried. Here is where I'm at as of today. Mike
  5. Beautiful work there, Thomas. Your attention to detail is inspiring. Mike
  6. Looking good! Keep in mind that the friezes will cover some of the planked edges at the ports. The more even (straight) the planked edge, the easier it will be to cut the frieze. Mike
  7. Nicely done, Rusty! Bet your glad that's over with. Now the fun part starts, Qgalleries. Mike
  8. Its been an interesting couple of days. I managed to get one roof sanded to shape and then I added the tiles. The first row of tiles overhangs the roof slightly and touches the molding below. Other than the last tile at the end of each row, I did not reduce the tile widths. With each row, I set the the tops of the tiles to touch each other and then angled them as needed to align into a staggered pattern with the row below. Each row was sanded paper thin at the top and reduced to about a 1/64" at the bottom. Then the next row was added. I also added the molding that sits on top. The molding has the added benefit of cleaning up the edge of that last row of tiles. I will be painting the roof black and applying some weathering powder to tone down the color. Mike
  9. Thank you very much for the kind words! I do enjoy the photography side of the build. Originally, I was shooting the photos against a beige painted wall in my apartment under 2500k incandescent. I never liked the lack of separation between the model and the background. While shopping for paint at the local Michaels store I found a 30x40 white stretched canvas. I tried using it as the background. It helped a lot especially after moving the shots to the workroom which has 3000k LEDs. Mike

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