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About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

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    Mount Vernon, NY

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  1. Chuck, you're doing a great job on the QGalleries. Very methodical and neatly done. Did you manage to straighten out the frieze with the name? How is the tissue paper working out? Mike
  2. Love it, Chuck! Could the moldings be added after the frieze is in place in order to hide frieze edge? Mike
  3. Rusty, Check the vertical timbers as well. Not sure how much it matters, but 2 of them are parallel to each other. Mike
  4. The second planking belt, now completed, has proven to be the most difficult one to do so far. I'm told that the last two belts will be much easier to complete which is good news. After seeing Chuck's taped off molding bands that run both through and above the gun ports, I was very curious as to how this would look on my ship. I wanted to know if the gun ports, fixed blocks and sheer were correct. Using measurements taken off the plan drawing I transferred the lower molding position onto the hull (turns out that the lower molding runs parallel to the wales). 1/8" tape was placed onto the hull to simulate the lower molding that runs through the gun ports. After eyeing the run from several positions I could see that some very slight tweaking was needed in order to establish a smooth run. Once satisfied, I added the simulated 3/32" upper molding which runs parallel to the lower molding. I was happy to see that both sides of the hull are almost identical with regard to gun port placement as well as sheer height and shape. Mike
  5. Nicely done, Chuck! Thanks for the heads up on the molding strip widths and using tape to establish a proper run for each. You've peaked my interest in knowing how accurately I have planked that upper section. Mike
  6. I saw Chuck's Winni last week at the house and it looks even better than the photos. . . Mike
  7. Joe, here are my findings regarding the planks going into the stem. . 1. Bevel the outside edge that goes into the stem as well as the inside edge. I find that it's the best way to hide the inside edge of the stem, leaving a nice transition between the plank and stem. 2. I have not found it necessary to bend the plank along its length around a "canister cap" or other round shape. I Just edge bend the plank enough so that its edge conforms nicely to the plank below while at the same time hugging the bulkheads that it crosses. Mike
  8. Chuck, beautiful work as always. I'm a bit behind you on my planking and that's a good thing. Your photos are very helpful, but as always make things seem easier than they really are. Now would be a great time for all those building the Winni to chime in on some of Chuck's expertise in planking techniques. Mike
  9. Looking very nice, Bob. Something that I almost forgot to do was to check the stern framing angle off the plan. Initially I was relying on how the frames sat in the bulkheads. Mike
  10. Yes, Joe, I use a 1 3/8" dowel or hard plastic container to curve the plank along its length. Just dampen, clamp and heat with a hair dryer. The curve can be finessed by hand afterwards. Mike
  11. Thank you all for the kind words and "Likes". Very much appreciated as always. Mike
  12. Work is now completed on the second belt. Not much to say other than more of the same. Just some cleanup sanding and as always I try to avoid sanding too much of the last few installed strakes. The knee is getting a bit grungy due to excessive handling, though not a problem to clean up later. Mike

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