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About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

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    Mount Vernon, NY

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  1. Here are the tools I used for shaping the scraper. . https://www.gesswein.com/p-3534-ultra-thin-cut-off-discs-78.aspx http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php?cPath=21_28 https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/409-15-16-cutting-wheels-36-pack Mike
  2. Chuck, I have a question for you. In your photo, the top of the Qgallery (pie shaped piece) is on the line on the fore end and above the line on the aft end. How did you determine this to be the correct position? Mike
  3. Time for another update. The fancy moldings that define the upper counter are done. Only one scraper was needed and it was made from a piece of .025 brass sheet. Making the scraper with such a tiny profile proved more difficult than I thought. I must have made 6 or more before finally getting it right. The last photo best shows the shape used. Using tape along with a pencil to darken the edge is an easy way to determine the proper shape for edge bending. Mike
  4. I took a break from the Qgalleries in order to get the lower counter molding done. First, I needed to clean up the wale edges at the counter and paint them black. The molding was scraped using a piece of thin brass sheet. There is a slight curvature to these which is easily formed with dry heat edge bending. For reference you will find the sterndrawing.pdf file in the chapter 3 discussion. Placing them by eye onto the transom would have been tricky, so I stacked several layers of masking tape together which was used for alignment when gluing them on. Those thin pieces of green tape were used as pull hinges to expose the underside of the molding when applying the glue. Mike
  5. Looks just great, Thomas. I'm amazed that you were willing to make another one. Looking forward to seeing it in final finish. Mike
  6. Taken from Winchelseasheet2.pdf, here is the angle that you should shoot for. The model should to be on the build board and in a vertical position when setting the frames. I used some card stock cut to the angle shown below. View the frames straight on from the side, making sure that the aft edges of all the frames are at this angle and also parallel to one another before the glue sets. Mike
  7. The seats are finished. The one on the starboard side was done after planking the stool. Getting a good fit all around required a number of angles being worked into the seat. I used a dowel to hold the seat when checking for fit and to hold it into position while the glue set. When it came to doing the one on the port side, I decided to do things differently. This time I installed the seat before planking the stool. That meant I didn't have to work the two outside angles for fit. Once the seat was glued, I simply faired the outer edge of the seat. Mike
  8. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21496-downloads-area-for-the-winnie-monograph-chapters/
  9. Greg, You're right! Certain aspects of the model are quite complex. I have just begun to work on the first Qgallery and find that these laser cut parts need quite a bit of tweaking in order to fit according to plan. To begin the Qgallery assembly, I used Chuck's template to establish where the upper support beam for the stool would go. This beam should run parallel to the planking, but the template could yield a different result depending on the angle of the transom or planking run, for example. Luckily the upper beam is parallel. This photo was taken slightly below straight on, therefore the curve of the beam gives the impression that it's not parallel. When you check the beam try to move your eyes level to the beam to see if it's parallel to the planking. After setting the upper beam I then added the lower beam. The two beams need to be faired prior to planking the stool. To get the planking shape, I moistened and clamped the plank to the two beams. I used the heat gun to set the shape and dry the wood. I almost forgot to mention that when fairing the two beams I used the drop as a guide when fairing the lower beam. You don't want the planking to stand too proud of the drop. I had to reduce the lower beam depth slightly on my ship. Mike
  10. Before starting on the Qgalleries, the two outer windows need to be installed along with the acetate and filler pieces. I used a small bead of glue, top and bottom, to hold each window in place. Then I added the clear acetate and filler pieces. The fillers are painted a dark gray color. I did not apply any glue before inserting them as the fit was snug enough. I did however close any gaps around the filler pieces, with some glue, in order to prevent any dust from getting in afterwards. The fillers were then sanded down flat to the transom. Mike
  11. Over the weekend I added the 1/64" x 3/16" boxwood strips to the top edge of the transom. This hides the seam created by the transom fillers and the transom template. The arrow shows the area where I filed away about 1/64" from the top edge of the transom before adding the strip. This helps to maintain the same profile after the strip was added. A while back I did a google search looking for a way to remove laser char and found that GOJO is a product that is often used. On larger wood pieces where the char layer is thicker, I found that a very light scraping or sanding before using the cleaner with a pipe brush gives a good result. With some trepidation, I tried using it on a gallery window for the Winnie. Using a soft tooth brush, I just kept massaging the wood gently for a few minutes. The windows was then rinsed in cold water and placed between layers of paper towel on a flat surface and weighted until dry. The result isn't perfect, but overall certainly better than before. I would imagine that those building with softer wood products like Yellow Cedar wouln't need to go though the process of removing char at all. Mike
  12. Having those suggestions from Chuck, I'm sure that you will fix this. Looking at sheet two, one can see the fairing line suggested. That would reduce the frame down to a little under 3/16" from its original 1/4" width. Mike
  13. I managed to get a coat of Wipe-on-Poly on the hull. I did not have the friezes, that are now available, when I originally planked the lower counter. After adding the transom template I placed the friezes to see how they would align with the upper and lower counters. The lower counter frieze didn't align well at all. There was just too much wood showing below the frieze. The fix was rather easy to do, however. I used the frieze to guide me in reshaping the upper plank on the lower counter. So, my suggestion is to use the provided friezes and check things out earlier rather than later. Here is the result and as you can see there was quite a bit of wood that had to be removed, about 3/32". Once that was done I added the upper counter planking. I added the outer window doubler to the inside of the transom template. This is a very, very tricky piece to make. I spent a lot of time finessing the angles for it to fit properly. You want the inside lip for the window to be very close to equal all around. Next, I added the 1/16" doublers to the inside of the upper counter. I then angled the upper counter planking, but not before first checking to make sure that the upper counter frieze was aligning properly with the angle. You can do this by drawing a line on the other side of the counter which mirrors the line on the inside. Mike

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