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About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

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    Mount Vernon, NY

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  1. Thanks, Matt, I'd gladly do those lids anytime over having to do those pesky window sills. They were a pain!
  2. I thought it might be a good time to get this post in as it covers a number of tasks that I've been working on. Starting with the gun port lids. The first step was to get these two planks fitting correctly The last plank is placed underneath so that the bottom edge can be traced The final result with all three planks in place When adding the frieze, the top section is cut away so it can be registered with the frieze below. Final result with lid lining attached, painted and ready for hinge
  3. Nice, Chuck! That's an improvement from the last template I saw the other day at your place. The one that made it difficult to see anything down below. Mike
  4. They do, though slight variations from those marks might occur when you set the batten. So, use the marks as a guide. Mike
  5. Over the weekend I worked on the rudder trunk and benches. Of course, Chuck's laser cut parts made things relatively easy. The tricky part was getting a tight fit between all the parts. The top of the rudder trunk needs to be angled where it sits up against the transom. I had to sand the bevel almost to a point in order to get a clean joint. When it came time to add the benches, I found that I needed to sand the bottoms slightly curved in order to match the camber in the margin plank. Further adjustments were made to insure that the benches did not sit on the deck. Mik
  6. How time flies! It's been over three years since I seized a block. I would have to start making them again so as to remember the way I did them. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Mike
  7. After adding the two ring bolts to the rudders spectacle plate, I moved onto the the gudgeons and straps. These were made in the same way as I did for the rudder. The mill comes in handy for drilling the strap holes. 7 layers of masking tape give the right thickness to sand the gudgeon and strap down to 1/32" before tapering. The only working hinges are at the top and bottom of the rudder. The other three are faked by gluing the pintles into the gudgeons. Mike
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