Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Mount Vernon, NY

Recent Profile Visitors

2,324 profile views
  1. By "level" do you mean parallel to the bottom of the keel? I checked the plan drawing and the aft port hinge tops for each lid measure that way. The exception being the port at the bow.
  2. Chuck, I have a question regarding the positioning of the tops of the gun port lid hinges. How is the position for the top of each lid hinge determined? Mike
  3. Hi Mike,

       I have a few questions for you ....again.  My back is finally healing enough for me to start model building again.  Hurrah!  This week I want to place an order to Syren Ship Model Company.  When I read your build log I see that you have a hybrid build going with certain parts out of Alaskan yellow cedar and others out of Castello boxwood.  How much of your model is yellow cedar?  Did you buy from Chuck all the chapters in Alaskan yellow cedar and then pick and choose carefully where to add parts of boxwood?  I'm trying to get a grip on what I need to buy and what will be scratch built.  Like you, I want to plank in boxwood.  Can you give me any advice on what to buy?  Money is not an issue, but I really don't wish to buy a lot of AYC parts that will not be used.  However, I will buy a chapter if you think certain parts are worth getting.

    Your friend,


    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Stuntflyer


      Btw; Do you where I can get enough clear boxwood to do another frigate like the winnie?

    3. wyz



           Thanks for the quick reply.  Many, many years ago I bought a shitload of Castello boxwood from a place in Canada:   A&M Wood Specialty,  357 Eagle Street North, PO Box 32040, Cambridge, Ontario N3H5M2    tel. # 519 653 9322   USA tel. # 800 265 2759  email  mail@amwoodinc.com 

           I purchased several sizeable pieces, and have never needed to ever buy more.  The problem is that you have to buy blind.  I would certainly give them a call, tell them what your needs are, and see if they can give you what you are looking for.  Not all the wood I purchased from them was uniform in color, but there was enough clear stuff of any hue to build a ship model.  Are you a gambler Mike?  LOL  Some places, if you are buying long distance, will slice a small piece down the length of a board to look at it for you.  Dave at The Lumberyard for Model Shipwrights might do that for you.

            Another place that comes to mind is: Rare Woods USA LLC, 120 Swift River Road, Mexico (town's name), Maine, 04257, USA  tel. # 207-364-1520  email:  info@rarewoodsusa.com They show pictures of the boards they sell, what they cost, how they rate them ( A, AB, B....), and any imperfections the board might have.  I've never been there, but I sure would like to drive up there and see the place, and, with good fortune, buy some wood.  They have an interesting website.  Are you up for a road trip Mike?  Seriously.

           There is also The Lumberyard for Model Shipwrights, Brecksville, Ohio  tel. # 440 526 2173  bodyplan@aol.com (Dave) and mrs22wood@aol.com  (place orders by talking to Dave’s wife)   They sell boxwood, but the price is steep. 1"x2"x20" for $16.  I haven't purchased boxwood from them but the other year I bought some steamed Swiss pear wood from them and I can honestly say it was the very best pear wood I've ever seen.  Perfect!  Dave and his wife are quite personable.   Call them and see if they might be open to selling you a rough cut log of Castello at a better price.  They have a pretty good gauge of the quality of the wood they sell.   I hope this helps Mike.

           Has Chuck ever put together special Chapter wood package for model builders who want to plank Winchelsea with Castello boxwood or Swiss pear wood and ONLY wish to buy the minimal amount of Alaskan yellow cedar necessary.  Can you negotiate with him?

      Your friend,


    4. Stuntflyer


      Thanks, Tom


      Has Chuck ever put together special Chapter wood package for model builders who want to plank Winchelsea with Castello boxwood or Swiss pear wood.


      Not that I know of.

  4. Thank you all for the comments and "Likes". Matt>I've been using a #2b pencil on one of the two plank edges being joined in order to simulate hull and deck caulking. If I wanted a darker simulation I would pencil both plank edges. Chuck provides a color pdf of the friezes that can be printed on regular paper stock. Mike
  5. The deck planking and waterway are finished along with a coat of W-O-P. I found a height discrepancy, so I added a paper or card stock shim to compensate. The idea was to avoid having to sand the parquet floor in order to even things out. Mike
  6. Nice joinery on the knee, Christian. Not that you would need to do this with Chuck's laser cut parts, but. . .To get a 90° edge I usually sand the adhered sandpaper flush with the edge of the block. I will then raise the part off the table slightly with a thin sheet of wood so the sandpaper touches the entire edge of the part being sanded. Mike
  7. Matthias, Your model is looking really nice! Just a reminder to end the plank here. Same idea for the one at the QD. Mike
  8. Tom, I know how difficult back issues can be, so I hope that you get better very soon. My two cents is this. .My boxwood built Winnie with 90% of the deck planking completed weighs a very manageable 5 lbs. Go with Alaskan yellow cedar or boxwood (if you have it). Purchase everything available for the build from Chuck. That includes the bulkheads. Make things easier on yourself, not harder. We all look forward to seeing the project as it progresses. Mike
  9. The planks that go around the mast partners and coamings are difficult to make and took some careful planning. In a failed attempt, I tried to make all the cutouts at one time. Rather than waste more wood, I decided to make card stock templates that closely matched the area being worked on. The plan was to work one tab at a time. Once a tab was completed, I would then move onto the next tab. This template was tricky because it required spanning two tabs in order to establish the proper shape. Notice how the tab tapers in width. When it ca
  10. Thank you, Tom! I happy to hear that your health has improved and you are ready to build the Winchelsea. Mike
  11. Welcome aboard, Tom. Looks like I'm going to learn a lot of new things from your Winnie build. I'm looking forward to that. Mike
  • Create New...