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About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

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    Mount Vernon, NY

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  1. That's correct, Griphos. The deadwood is reduced from 15" to 12" at stepping line. That would be 1.5" or 1/32" "actual" removed from each side. Mike
  2. Tony, Right now things are on hold while I work on the Winchelsea. Mike
  3. Thank you all for the comments and "Likes"! Here is a small update regarding the black strake installation and my somewhat lengthy method. I say that because I will do whatever I can to avoid having to paint the top edge of the strake where it overlaps the hull planking after it is glued down. Even if the area where masked off, I would question my ability to get a clean edge. The hull has to be prepared for any glue seepage that might occur. To do that I taped off a small area below and above where the top edge of the black strake is located. I applied a coat of W-O-P between the taped edges. I used some old striping tape that I had lying around. The top edge of the these planks are beveled and painted with Windsor and Newton "Mars Black" which has been thinned down considerably. Two coats is all that was needed. Once dry the remaining unpainted wood was masked off on both sides. A thin coat of Testors "Dullcote" was applied to the black paint which will protect the paint if glue seepage needs to be wiped off later. With the prep work completed, the planks can be glued onto the hull. I used a 1/8" flat paint brush trimmed very short to place a small bead of glue down the middle of the underlying hull planking. To avoid creating a mess each plank was glued its entire length in one shot. The end result is a clean edge where the black strake overlaps the hull planking. So far, with one side completed, there has been no glue seepage at all. There is no point in my painting the entire strake now since there are a number of steps that have to be completed before final painting. 1. Bevel the top edge of the wales 2. Install at least one strake below the wales which includes the drop plank. 3. Taper the wales towards its bottom edge for a pleasing transition into the strake below. Mike
  4. It seems like forever since I started on the second wale layer. Anyway, 3 of the 4 strakes are in. Each strake was made from 5 or 6 planks. I could do the last strake now, but I think it would be better to wait until at least one strake below the wale is in. This strake would include the drop plank at the fore end of the ship. Adding it now would give me a better visual for getting a good joint to the underlying wale layer and make it easier to sand it afterwards. I remember this issue coming up on the Cheerful build where I regretted not doing it this way. I could add the black strake now after doing a bit more sanding above it. The wale is tapered down to less that 1/64th at the stem from 3/4"-1" out. This was mostly done with a miniature chisel from Veritas. https://www.fine-tools.com/miniature-chisels.html I left one layer untouched, so you can better see this. Mike
  5. I finally completed the work of thinning down the bulkhead extensions (toptimbers). I found that leaning the hull allows for easier access when sanding both the exterior and interior. This also reduces the need for me to be constantly bent over which tends to be hard on my back. The three upright supports do keep the hull vertical, but clamping these supports keeps the hull more rigid and less prone to movement while sanding. I could foresee the possibility of this constant movement either marring the keel or even worse loosening joints. At this point I am ready to start the second layer whales and black strake. Mike
  6. Work continues with the rather messy job of fairing the inner hull above the wales starboard side. Frame width has been reduced to 6" or 1/8" actual. Mike
  7. Thanks, Mauricio! Most of the wood used on my build went into making the frames. To calculate the amount of wood needed, I first had to cut out all of the paper patterns corresponding to each frame. The patterns were then grouped together according to the thickness of wood needed for those patterns. Once that was done I was able to layout the patterns, paying close attention to the run of the grain, on several sheets of paper. The sheets of paper were the same size as the sheet wood I would be ordering. I figured in a waste factor of 50% for re-do's. Mike
  8. Thanks, Mark! I have fretted about it too and decided not to paint those edges. Guess I'm not a purist! Mike
  9. The port side planking above the first layer wales is done. Again you can see the original wood color in the area of the wales compared to that which is above. I pencil marked X's on the first layer wales so as to avoid placing the second layer in the wrong location. I also started to clean up and fair the inside of the hull in the forecastle area. I glued scrap 1/8" basswood and balsa in-between the frames as a guide while removing material. Lots of sawdust! MIke
  10. Excellent work as usual, Chuck. You certainly know your way around AYC. I'm still learning! Mike
  11. Steve, the planks with no tabs are 1/4" x 3/64 and the tabbed ones are 5/16 x 3/64" Mike

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