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About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

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    Mount Vernon, NY

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  1. Outstanding work as usual, Chuck. From now on we'll have to call you Laserman. .Forget the other kit guys, they won't even come close to this. I have seen the prototypes you were working on and they blew me away. Those tiny tweaks you've been making sure paid off! Mike
  2. I have finally finished the transom detail. For this kind of work I clamped the hull to the work table with the transom face up above table height. I used the same background paper below the windows as I did above. When fitting the figures that cover areas of molding I decided to notch the figures and leave the molding untouched. Seemed far easier to replace the figures rather than fix misplaced gouges, etc., in the molding. When painting the figures, I lightly rubbed my finger over the high and low areas to achieve a variation in the color depth of the paint. This, alo
  3. Chuck, nice clean work as always! It's good to see you taking time from work to build. Looking forward to chapter 5. . Mike
  4. Thank you, Anthony. Have fun with it and I look forward to following your build. Mike
  5. I decided to take a short break from the transom details in order to complete the framing for the deck coamings. The photos below show the completed work. The first photo is the aft framing followed by the forward framing. My frames are made from boxwood. During frame assembly I tried to keep things squared up and centered on the deck by removing material from both sides of the beam. A number of dry fits with the carlings were needed. Notice how the laser cut mortises are etched on both sides of the beam in order to line up the ledges. I would imagine that this would be a two step
  6. First planking belt: So, other than the center plank, there will be some tapering of the other six planks, dependent on the laying out? Mike
  7. Looking really nice! Can't wait to get there. I wonder how difficult it would be curving the deck planks with boxwood. Looks like it be just a straight taper with edge bending? Mike
  8. Thank you, Chuck. Yes, I used the fruitwood gel stain. No mixing of the stain beforehand. Straight off the top layer of gel that was in the can . It was wiped off immediately and I only needed two coats. Mike
  9. I've been working on a way to get a good fit with the drops. I know that no two hulls are the same, but on my ship it required some experimentation in order to get the front of the drop (tear drop) to fit tight against the hull. I tried using dry heat and manual bending which worked somewhat though not perfectly. The solution. . .? 1. Place a strip masking tape on the wales for paint protection. 2. Remove material from the drop where necessary in order to get as close as possible to a good fit. Concentrate on the back end of the drop where it intersects with the transom. I sa
  10. Small update: Things are moving a bit slowly lately, but I did manage to get some work done. I've been jumping around a bit in the build sequence which seems okay for now. Here are few photos showing where I'm at. Looking at the laser cut sheet one can see that the 5 moldings that run along the top edge of the transom are not all the same width. Only the center molding at the very top is correct. The other 4 are slightly wider and the lower edge of each needs to be reduced in width in order to match the center molding. I found that PVA glue doesn't wo
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