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About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

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    Mount Vernon, NY

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  1. I was driving home from Chuck's on Saturday when I noticed that sunlight coming through the car window exposed a few misses in my initial sanding of the upper planks. So, I was anxious to correct this asap. Once that was taken care of I added the forecastle fairing cap, port side. This was made from boxwood sheet as described in Chuck's Cheerful instructions. Also, I was able to check out Chuck's fancy molding and volutes over the weekend and they are really nice. Turns out that they will completely cover any gaps around the area of the hance fairing caps. Just one more thing I was worried about for nothing. Mike
  2. I think that the first one which shows both ships is the best, but still not that accurate.
  3. Thanks, Lou, The knee sections are large enough to handle at this scale. Paper templates taken from the plan were glued to the wood parts with school glue. The scroll saw was used to cut the initial shapes by cutting close to the line. Drum sanding along with the disc sander and hand sanding was used to get the parts to the proper shape. Paper templates were then removed. Working on two adjoining parts at a time, the parts were checked for fit by holding them together against a glass window or light box. Light coming thru will show any gaps in the fit. I spent a lot of time finessing these parts for a near perfect fit. Once completed the two parts are glued together and the next part is made to fit to the completed assembly. The three sections along the stem were completed before adding them to the knee. The gammon slot was done on the mill. Something I picked up from druxey describes how he uses various shaped sanding blocks, cut at a 90° angle to get the needed shape. In order to sand the whole edge, simply raise the part of the flat surface with scrap sheet of wood and then run the block over a flat surface and against the part. I know it's a rather short explanation, but I'm hoping that it helps. Mike
  4. Hi Mark, What I find most interesting is your making the port stop blocks in such a way that two blocks can be used to handle any port shape and size by using wedges for spreading them. The suggestion that druxey had of using a sanding sealer should definitely help if cleanup is needed. Mike
  5. Thank you all for the nice comments and for all the "Likes". Chuck, I will have the poly on the upper planking sometime this week. I've been putting it off for too long. Mike
  6. I managed to complete a few things this week. . In preparation for spray painting the wales on the port side I added the section of anchor lining that will be painted black. It was tapered down to 1/64" at the bottom. The hull was then taped off along the wales. After painting was completed, I added the black strake. This was done in four sections. I also added the 3/16" wide fairing caps over the top of the sheer. The ones over the hance pieces were laser cut and the 3/16" x 1/16" strips were cut on the table saw. From what I understand, the final shaping of the hance fairing caps will be done after the fancy molding and volutes are in place. To finish off the anchor lining, I added the clear piece that sits above. Mike
  7. I'm using Winsor & Newton acrylic paint. Grumbacher is also a good choice. I prefer to airbrush over hand painting, but that depends on how difficult it is to mask off the area being painted. Mike
  8. Hi Mark, It doesn't seem possible to prevent the stain from wicking into the plank ends. Then there is the issue of matching the paint to the stained areas. Have you considered doing everything with just paint? Mike
  9. Mark, I did not measure anything on the frames beforehand, though I did consider using a stop block. Since the gunports are not all the same shape, making a stop block for every port was more than I wanted to do. The reveals were all done by eye with the aid of the OptiVISOR. Also, I didn't sand the plank ends by hand. I used the disc sander either powered or by hand rotation depending on how much I needed to finesse the fit. For the joints between the planks, I like to use a number 2b pencil on one plank edge only and not on both edges being joined. Mike
  10. After a lengthy discussion and given the choice to remain with a painted black strake or switch to a natural one, I decided to go with a natural one. I removed the black strakes shown in post #129. They popped off rather easily using a small chisel as a wedge. The new black strakes will be added after the wales are painted. Something I didn't do the first time around was to make sure that the top edge of the wales were of even thickness throughout. To do this, I added nine layers of .005" striping tape to achieve the wale thickness of .045". I was not surprised to see that the thickness does vary a bit which I attribute to the gluing process and not to variation in wood thickness. The upper edge of the wales were sanded down close to the tape surface. Once completed the first three three layers of tape were removed. The remaining 1/32" thickness of tape is equal to the black strake thickness and the 1/64" exposed edge can now be tapered and softened. The photo below shows the before and after. The drop plank was made from 3/64" boxwood sheet and installed before the last 2nd layer wale strake was added. The two rows of planks that follow the drop plank were also completed. Some creative clamping was used in order to hold things down. The last wale strake was painted black on one edge and glued into place. Once done, the striping tape used in the previous step was placed below it. The bottom edge of the wale is tapered down to approx 1/32". The photo below shows the before and after. Now onto the other side before painting the wales. Mike

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