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About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

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    Mount Vernon, NY

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  1. Joe, here are my findings regarding the planks going into the stem. . 1. Bevel the outside edge that goes into the stem as well as the inside edge. I find that it's the best way to hide the inside edge of the stem, leaving a nice transition between the plank and stem. 2. I have not found it necessary to bend the plank along its length around a "canister cap" or other round shape. I Just edge bend the plank enough so that its edge conforms nicely to the plank below while at the same time hugging the bulkheads that it crosses. Mike
  2. Chuck, beautiful work as always. I'm a bit behind you on my planking and that's a good thing. Your photos are very helpful, but as always make things seem easier than they really are. Now would be a great time for all those building the Winni to chime in on some of Chuck's expertise in planking techniques. Mike
  3. Looking very nice, Bob. Something that I almost forgot to do was to check the stern framing angle off the plan. Initially I was relying on how the frames sat in the bulkheads. Mike
  4. Yes, Joe, I use a 1 3/8" dowel or hard plastic container to curve the plank along its length. Just dampen, clamp and heat with a hair dryer. The curve can be finessed by hand afterwards. Mike
  5. Thank you all for the kind words and "Likes". Very much appreciated as always. Mike
  6. Work is now completed on the second belt. Not much to say other than more of the same. Just some cleanup sanding and as always I try to avoid sanding too much of the last few installed strakes. The knee is getting a bit grungy due to excessive handling, though not a problem to clean up later. Mike
  7. Dave, You're off to a great start. I suggest that you can cut the inside bulkhead extensions, extension tops and the area of the false deck to the line, being careful that the line shows afterwards. You will take off more material on the inside extensions when you fair the hull inside. The false deck area will be much easier to sand or file now rather than after the bulkheads are glued to the bulkhead former. Mike
  8. Looks very familiar, Bob. Glad to see that your up and running. I think you will really enjoy building the Winni. Mike
  9. This is how I hold the hull steady while planking below the wales. I can slide the Kleenex boxes left or right depending on what section of the hull I'm working on. The painters tape can be released and reapplied several times before losing adhesion. I've been using this edge bending jig since my 18th Century Longboat build. Recently I adapted this variation on Chuck's center hold down. Mike
  10. Thanks, Rusty! I'm looking forward to seeing your progress on your "new" Winchelsea build. Mike
  11. Planking below the wales is one of my favorite parts of the build. I have now completed the first belt on the starboard side. Working with boxwood is great though I have to work slowly if I want to get a nice result. On a good day I can complete one strake. I'm Just taking my time and treating each plank as a project in itself. Edge bending is my new friend and I'm finding, for the most part, it's all that is needed. The exception being where the plank sweeps upwards into the counter. There I use a dowel to form the shape. In all cases I use the hair dryer after wetting the wood for 10-15 seconds. Some preliminary cleanup sanding was done while leaving the last installed strake mostly untouched until more planks are added below it. Mike
  12. I don't know about that, Boyd. .5mm seems like a lot to be off by, but perhaps you will be okay. Good luck! Mike

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