Sunsanvil
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from maddog33 in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Minor update.
Sheer clamp is in.
I really need to figure out what I'm going to use for stain. I don't feel like spending $50 on prestain, stain, polycrylic, and solvent cleaner. I tried some danish oil on a test piece but it doesn't have any real colour or depth. I thought I'd try some of the craft stain (Folk Art or Americana). I have their sealer from my wife's tole painting supplies I could use. Have to find some first (Michael's had everything but).
I am also really torn on the position on the main mast. As others have shown it looks so much more correct one thwart forward, but I'm afraid that's going to put the two sails too close together (I plan on displaying it with sails unfurled).
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Thanks for that tip. What is the science behind it? The bit of moisture causes the wood to swell and evens out the divot?
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from maddog33 in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Well I reached my New Years goal of getting the tween and kant frames in. I used the boil method on these and had dramatically fewer breaks compared to the curling iron method. I used mini binder clip which left a divot in each one since they were soft from the boiling but for the most part that should be hidden by the sheer clamp. At some frames though the clips left a slight dent on the outside of the sheer plank which I hope I can sand out.
I am using 3 braces as you can see since I had nightmares of the hull bowing out. Surprisingly there was very little but just to be safe I left them in place during the tween frame installation and will probably leave then on until the sheer clamp is in place at which time I figure it will be firm enough to hold its shape on its own.
I agree that 3 kant frames probably isn't enough but instead of adding more I simply spaced the 3 more evenly which looks more correct to me (the instructions would have you group the three close together leaving a large gap between them and the last main frame as well between them and the bow.
I also agree the mainmast feels too far back as instructed. Not surprising given some of the other..umm.. dubious aspects of the model. I will have to think long and hard about how I want to tackle that. The blocks and centre floor are not actually installed, rather they are just set in place to get a sense of the spacing.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Keith, yours and Cptn Rat's logs are my references here. I may take a page from yours and do a half stain half paint on the outside. To tree nail or not to tree nail...that's a question.
Does anyone sell pre-drawn walnut (or a 1/16 dowel)?
There has been some consternation over my username. Most friends just call me B.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
When you say natural stain, is that basically a clear stain? I guess I hadn't considered that because the instructions say that basswood is "not attractive" on its own. That and the fact that MSW used a markedly different color basswood for half the sheets. If you look at the latest pics you can see how the sheer and the next two are an almost redish color. I figured a tinted stain would homogenize things a bit.
I mentioned Golden Oak because I was super inspired by Capn Rat Fink's Launch. I especially liked the contrast of the dark walnut gunwale against the lighter hull.
What I'm really torn on is whether to go with classic MinWax or their waterbased one. I like the idea of soap and water cleanup but I know that there are certain things which just plain work better with good ol' solvent based formulas. Its not a trivial decision either as a couple shades, a pre-stain, and a finish clear are going to cost a cool C$40 either way.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Right now I'm thinking stain. As it is there are many gaps/cracks with are "pre-filled" by proxy with the carpenters glue (allegedly stainable). I've just finished filling any remaining with filler (also allegedly stainable). Next step will be to pickup a small can of Golden oak and experiment on some spare bass wood, including some simulated gaps filled with the carpenters glue and filler and see how it looks.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from maddog33 in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Well, we officially have a planked hull. In the end I just held the shutter with my hands for 25 minutes each.
I edge glued every one so after the first sanding there isn't actually a ton of filling to do. It's remarkable how solid it feels at this point.
I will do a bit of crack filling, another cursory sand, and then comes the moment of truth: popping it off the building frame...
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
It's actually funny because although a lot more work of course, the planks I've made from scratch are the best ones.
We almost have a hull folks...
Serious question: How on earth do I hold the shutter plank now that I have nothing to clamp to???
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Its just frustrating because I really dont put this under the category of "learning", or "skill". How much of what type of glue, bending and shaping, broken cheery ribs, those sorts of things I take responsibility for. But when the sum of the widths of pre-cut planks is more than 3mm lacking, that is clearly a kit design and/or manufacturing issue.
Anecdotally speaking, I think its their cutting: if you measure and compare the planks on the printed plans they are all slightly larger than the laser cuttings.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Planking continues and I must say, at this juncture, I'm not impressed with Model Shipways quality.
A good deal of the laser cuttings have what I call "burn out" where clearly the beam was out of focus, moved too slow, or something. Case in point is this garbord...
Which translates on the model to a substantial gap which cannot be corrected.
And if you are thinking I could have sanded that out, think again. For all MSW's talk of the planks being a little oversized, note that I've done NO reducing of the planks whatsoever (save for right at the hood ends) and this is what I get a midship:
This is a travesty. I was thinking I would make the shutter plank from scratch but now I'm thinking I better make all three so that I don't end up with one notably wider than all the others!
So much for MSW's "invovation".
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Yea I though there was enough overcast light coming in the window but clearly the iPad didnt think so and knocked the shutter speed down on me. I really need to replace my stolen camera soon. Maybe a boxing week sale.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from maddog33 in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Starting to look like a boat...
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Can one boil basswood like the cheery? I was thinking I could put a couple inches of water in dutch oven and boil planks that way...
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Here is where we stand...
The last of the ribs are glued in place. I now need to fair the rib-less forms (1,2,&3) as well as the transom. Actually looks like I need to touch up the fairing on the ribs themselves. I know I had those forms near perfect, and I made sure every rib was bent and twisted to conform but I guess that's just the vaguery of wood for you.
I have to say, my first foray into bending did not go as well as I hoped. I was off to a good start using the soak and then shape over the curling iron method. A couple broken ones and I was on a streak of 6 good bends... then it really became hit and miss. In the end I overall broke 1 in 3. Then for the last 2 I tried boiling them for 15 minutes...and they went on like butter! Maybe that was just luck, I don't know but I now wish I tried that at the start. I'll be using that method for the tween frames for sure. I'm just super scared now I will run out of the cherry wood stock.
The real question now is, how to approach bending the planks? I don't have a pot big enough to boil them.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Thanks much for that Keith.
I did a couple more, broke both, decided it was a combination of going too fast and possibly bending in the wrong orientation. I looked carefully at the stock and its seems fairly clear that the ribs are rip-cut from a board (two sides are smooth, the other two rough). Putting the smooth side to the outside and inside (the rough sides fore and aft), I did 6 more successfully.
I also experimented with my first (test) rib by dipping it in water and working it on the (hair) curling iron to see if subsequent bending or twisting is possible and indeed it is. That will surely come in handy as I get away from amidship and on to the ribs which need convoluted twisting to properly follow the fairing.
It really is a revelation to learn just how pliable a material like wood can be.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Thanks. Indeed they will be spot glued. I just didn't know if that much spring-back is "normal" or if I would want to reheat one like that and try to get it a little closer to perfection before forcing it the last couple mm into place.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
How much spring back on the ribs is acceptable? Or phrased another way, how close to perfection should I be going for? Here is my test rib after being clamped in place for 24 hours.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Is there a visual cue to use?
I read that a gentle plying of the part will give an indication of the best orientation to bend it in (the one which is most yielding).
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Building frame complete. Keel, stem, and transom in place. Very first (test) rib in place.
Need to run to the store and get a tub of file clips.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Building frame is just about ready. Keel is ready, rabbet carved.
What to do about this abomination...
Is the consensus to put it on the inside and hide it with stowage? I don't have the right material to make my own.
I'm a little confused about carving the taper at the stem. Concave, convex, othe...?
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Minor update.
Sheer clamp is in.
I really need to figure out what I'm going to use for stain. I don't feel like spending $50 on prestain, stain, polycrylic, and solvent cleaner. I tried some danish oil on a test piece but it doesn't have any real colour or depth. I thought I'd try some of the craft stain (Folk Art or Americana). I have their sealer from my wife's tole painting supplies I could use. Have to find some first (Michael's had everything but).
I am also really torn on the position on the main mast. As others have shown it looks so much more correct one thwart forward, but I'm afraid that's going to put the two sails too close together (I plan on displaying it with sails unfurled).
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Elijah in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Minor update.
Sheer clamp is in.
I really need to figure out what I'm going to use for stain. I don't feel like spending $50 on prestain, stain, polycrylic, and solvent cleaner. I tried some danish oil on a test piece but it doesn't have any real colour or depth. I thought I'd try some of the craft stain (Folk Art or Americana). I have their sealer from my wife's tole painting supplies I could use. Have to find some first (Michael's had everything but).
I am also really torn on the position on the main mast. As others have shown it looks so much more correct one thwart forward, but I'm afraid that's going to put the two sails too close together (I plan on displaying it with sails unfurled).
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from GemmaJF in HMS Bounty Launch by Sunsanvil - Model Shipways - Scale 1:16 - First wooden ship build
Minor update.
Sheer clamp is in.
I really need to figure out what I'm going to use for stain. I don't feel like spending $50 on prestain, stain, polycrylic, and solvent cleaner. I tried some danish oil on a test piece but it doesn't have any real colour or depth. I thought I'd try some of the craft stain (Folk Art or Americana). I have their sealer from my wife's tole painting supplies I could use. Have to find some first (Michael's had everything but).
I am also really torn on the position on the main mast. As others have shown it looks so much more correct one thwart forward, but I'm afraid that's going to put the two sails too close together (I plan on displaying it with sails unfurled).
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from mtaylor in Dark "raw" Tung oil?
Has anyone ever tried this stuff?
https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/dark-tung/
Since regular tung/danish doesnt really give any color to basswood, I'm wondering it this might be an alternative as a "single product" finish.
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Sunsanvil got a reaction from Canute in Dark "raw" Tung oil?
Has anyone ever tried this stuff?
https://www.realmilkpaint.com/shop/oils/dark-tung/
Since regular tung/danish doesnt really give any color to basswood, I'm wondering it this might be an alternative as a "single product" finish.
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