garyshipwright

Hello,
 
Before I begin to install all guns, and work further with beams and knees for quarter deck, gun port lids must here. So the production of hinges, the lids itself are made earlier. I hope, the images are self explainable.
 





 
The installation of hinges and lid tackles.





 
After I have installed all lids, I have made blanks for channels, shaped them to right size and thickness, and installed them (only dry now).
 







 
To be continued
 
Alexander

Hello,

before I put the guns on their positions, I have decided to work around hull, especially the stern area und the bow. Here are few pictures of making the windows. The wood is Castello, the strips are 0,5x0,5mm and 0,5x0,8mm. For glazing I have used 0,3mm thick plastic from package, then glued framing with CA. The framing of stern windows was transfered  to transparent paper, then the windows mullions are drafted on this transparent paper according to plan. Then I have glued white paper sheet to wood plate, and glued transparent paper over the first. So I have correct windows outline and right angles. Then placed clear plastic sheet over paper, and fixed them with tape.

Now the mullions. Horizontal mullions (0,5mm x 0,5 mm) are glued directly to plastic with CA glue. Then slots for vertical mullions are cut out with chisel, they are not halflapped, they go through horizontal down to plastic. This is showed in third picture. Then vertical mullions are glued on. then all was cut to right length according to drawing. Then outer frames (0,5mm x 0,8 mm) are glued, again directly to plastic. Then the windows are sand flush, the plastic was then cut out, and the window is ready.
 

 
The horizontal strips are glued first, then gaps for vertical strips are cut.


 
Vertical strips glued on, cut to right height, and outer framing gluing

 
overall view with outer frames. Also the sliding windows.

 
Close view after sanding

 
The frame for permanent window glued over additional sheet of plastic

 
Check how they fit. The windows need some cleaning, then coat of varnish will be added to simulate old glazing.

 
Preparing framing for galleries beginns




 
The shape of windows traced to transparent paper.

 
The windows for galleries are done in the same manner as before. The glazing is imitated by adding a coat of varnish, this give the irregular transparence like old glass. The battens between windows added separately. They will recieve mouldings later, and are hold at now by a little spot of glue.
All windows are dry fitted at now.





 
Here is how the wooden shindles are made, and ready cover for gallery


 
The planking of stern is completed. The arches are made from two strips of 0,6mm boxwood glued together.



 
Internal view with few beams of QD installed

 
To be continued
 
Alexander
 

The breeching ropes, material is 120 Gütermann poliester.
 


















 
To be continued.
 
Alexander

The production fo gun carriages. The different parts, ring and eyebolts, etc.
 

 
The tools for trucks and axles I have turned on my Unimat

 
Assembly jig for carriages

 
And putting together all parts
 









 
To be continued.
 
Alexander

The turning of gun barrels with duplicator on my Unimat SL lathe.
 




 
The holder for bore the holes and blackening test.
 







 
All barrels turned and bored:
 


Gluing of royal arms and vent plates with CA glue
 




 
All guns done and ready for mounting on carriages

 
To be continued.
 
Alexander

Thanks you Greg, Wacko and Pat!
 
Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:47 am
I have worked on pumps, they are not completed at the moment. The brakes of hand pumps are not installed now. I'm not sure, if I do to cower the pumps heads with cooper plate, as show on the model of Amazon by NMM. Probably not. So the pictures follows.
 




 
Quarter deck and fore castle beams cutted and sanded, and main and fore bitts in process:
 







 
Knees for fore castle beams:




 
To be continued.


Alexander

The ruder fittings, eye and ring bolts.
 
The ruder hinges are cut out from solid brass 2mm x 10mm, then filed by hand with a file.
 







 
The little tool for eyebolts and the process of making (the wire is 0;4mm):
 









 
The shot lookers:
 



 
To be continued.

Alexander

Hi all and many thanks for your comments!
 
some photos of manufacturing of deck planks with caulking. The first photo shows the complete process. The paper was glued to one surface of the prepared piece of wood, then the piece are cut in to planks. I used the Proxxon steel saw blade 50 x 0,5mm (photo 2). It gives very clean cut and does not need for sanding before gluing.
 



(note an additional piece for fence is that the plank would not be clamped)

 
The planking of deck:
 







 
the work go on and the deck is nearly completted. The ridding bits and anchor bitts are only dry placed without a glue, and anchor cable is still for photo shooting.







 
The deck of Captain's cabin is done, the planking of after part of hull is completed and lower counter rail also on place.
 





 
Added some photos:
 



 
To be continued.
 
Alexander

Thank Daniel!
 
The hull was then oiled with linseed oil bellow the main wales:
 


 
Here some images of gratings, hatches, ladders and gun deck framing, is now completed and is ready for planking.
The lower deck is also completed and oiled, the after part is painted black.
These are also some close views of main ladder and other things.
 












 
To be continued...

Best regards

Alexander

Some images from my home made draw plante with treenails 0,6mm for treenailing the hull, and the tools used for:
 


 
And here the hull while treenailing:
 




 
The main wales are painted with acrilic paint:
 


 
To be continued...
 
Best regards
 
Alexander

There are some pictures illustrating the macking of rails (boxwood).
 






here is short description of scraping process:

The width (and as also as possible the depth) of the profile cut in the razor-blade must correspond exactly the width of the strip, otherwise the blade follows the wood grain and does not run straight. With the first 2 to 3 courses the pressure of razor blade against the strip should be low, afterwards step by step with higher pressure. For a profile shown I need 20 to 30 courses, depends which kind of wood. I tried different woods and mostly the results were good, the boxwood I choose because of the color, and due to the fact the timber is very hard, which is an advantage with fine small profiles.
 
The rails in place with gun port and part of main wale.
 

 
The plankin get close to end:

 
and finally done:
 


 
Best regards

Alexander

Hello all here!

I'm glad our World is back! So I start here my build log for HMS Sphynx. In the past life (I mean old MSW...) I have some images added to gallery, so I will post them all here in chronological order with some descriptions.

The Sphynx was 20 gun ship designed by J. Williams, and was smallest 6th rate frigate. She was built in 1775 at Portsmouth, Hampshire and broken ap in 1811. The Sphynx-class is also the last class of small frigates with 9 pdr. There are 10 further ships builded:

Camilia, Chathan Dyd, 20.4.1776-1809
Daphne, Woolwich Dyd., 21.3.1776-1802
Galatea, Deptford Dyd., 23.3.1776-1783
Ariadne, Chatham Dyd., 27.12.1776-1814
Vestal, Plymonth Dyd., 23.35.1777-1777
Perseus, Randall, Rothehille, 20.3.1776-1805, 1798 convertet to a bomb vessel
Unicorn, Randall, Rothehille, 23.3.1776-1787
Ariel, Perry & Co., Blackwall, 7.7.1777-1779
Narcissus Plymonth Dyd., 9.5.1781-1796

For this project I have ordered the original plans from NMM, and I have decided to redraw the plans for model building. For decorative work and also some other details I have ordered the pictures from "Science and Society Picture Library" http://www.scienceandsociety.co.uk/results.asp?image=10325356 . For dimensions of all hull details I have used the Establishment lists, and Steels "The Elements of masting and Rigging" for mast, yards and standing rigging. The running rigging and sailing plan also arrive later.
The result looks at time thus: http://zope.mein-media.de/meinmedia/plans/index.html

In February 2006 the plans were ready, at least so far that I have begun with the building of the model. Parallel and in addition I have done further research, and the plans are further worked out.
 
Now the images of beginning:




 
The main wales are cut according to plan, and glued on. Then waterway, spirketing and part of planking abowe main wales are added.




 
The model was then put keel over, and underwater planking begins.




 
Best regards

Alexander

Hello,
 
here the making of chain plates for deadeyes, step by step in images.
 









 
To be continued, now in real time

Alexander

Hi guys, thanks you all for warm words!
Nearly nothing time to work at the model, so only a small update. The chains are now completted.
 

 

 

 
The next task is the bulkheads of cabins, so here the doors under construction. The door windows are done the same way as at the stern, but here I have glued wood strips at both sides of plastic sheet. The images show the making step by step.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Alex

Hi,
 
the time for update here. Further work with chennels and chainplates, completting of them. I hope the images are explanable.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The guns are not fixed now.
 
Alex
 

Thanks you Chris and Sinan!
 
Two days later...
 

 
The plastic sheets are not covered with varnish now, so they looks just like plastik
 
Alex

I want to be able to see the outside shape of the ship especially in the back.
 

I stopped working inside and did some work fore and plane the fore mast made from 7 parts.  Actually, it is easier to plane round than what we could think. To be able to install the rudder upper metal fitting, it needed 1 layer of plank before.

Here is an update on the first deck. Many parts are fixed in relation with the beams of the second deck, so they are also needed. Many parts are still not glued yet. Planking is mostly completed. 2 areas are needed, in the middle and on port side but just enough to supports guns. The idea is the more planking is done the less we can see inside and in fact it is just the opposite effect which is wanted.  Animal park can be seen on the last 2 pictures.

Here is what  happened since the last update,
 
Building a ship is fun, but building it in good conditions is even more fun. Building this size means that standing for long periods of time is a common thing. For this reason, I searched an ergonomic mat to work on and ended with some kind of rubber mat. Standard ergonomic mat are made to stand on. They are not made for compression meaning that a heavy trolley would sink in this kind of carpet. This is exactly what I saw with the version of the working desk 1.0 and also for a rubber mat a hard plastic caster wheels are needed.
 
To correct this problem, the working desk will be cut in 2 parts a multidrawer unit to store all the small tools and a desk. The 16 drawers unit is made from cherry and as all the big tools, 4 caster wheels to move it easily. As I realised with the electric table that working at the good height makes working easier, we usually have a height adjustable chair with an oil chuck. If we look the problem from the other side a height adjustable working desk can make the life easier.
 
I bought the electric mechanism, built the top of the table and kept some old parts from version 1.0 table and now here is version 2.0 of the working desk. To keep the table as low as possible in the lowest possible, double caster wheel are used.

something like this?

Glued evrything except the 2 back ramps for further easy  access
Planking over side structures
Box framing each side dry fitting
At this stage dry fitting is essemtial because I could not arrive and fix parts at the first throw; I have to think calmly  and slowly progress with each part to his shape and position in relation with the rest. Slow process but interesting!

When we build a model ship, peaples say that we have to put our soul in the model to give it a life. Here is  how to do it,

Thank you John,
 
Up to now, all the pictures presented were in automatic mode. Circumstances made that next week will be the last part of Photography for the beginner. As for each week, we must try few pictures, so I develop a subject already tried but this time in manual mode!
 
On the second picture, by changing the camera angle the distance between the figures changed.
 
On the third picture, different tries by adding a white transparent curtain to soften the neon lighting coming from the ceiling.

Image 1 parts are done with white cardboard which  
 
-Lines are copied on a transparent paper from plans then glued with Pritt paper glue on a white cardboard
-Copied directly from the model
 
Image 5 made from 2 planks with a groove for assembly
 
Image 7
actually working on the balcony ramp made from 3 parts: 2 sides and 1 back same kind of assembly for the lower rail for the balcony. Alignment of sides is done with a plank resting on side planking thus giving exact parallelism between each one template made from 2 parts to give parallelism between the 2 rails the assembly of the side balcony ramp on the vertical post is done exactly as when assembling  a cross