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Gaetan Bordeleau

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    Quebec, Canada

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  1. You need a focusing rail, here are 2 on top of each other. The idea is to have a cart sliding on a rail with a screw or a motor to adjust the focusing distance.
  2. I just tried 1 of these kits and compared the macro lens 25X vs the Iphone at 10X. For the price, it is very good! On the second photos, a photo with a macro lens from Canon.
  3. This was made for long typing period on a keyboard , plus a small table for the mouse. This model is for a table and there is also a model for a chair. The idea is to transfer the arm weight to the forearm on the pad and to reduce the distance so that the hand can easily move. At the opposite, if you would try by example to carve with the arm fully extended not resting on anything, your arm would get tired much faster and with pain as an extra. This way the hand is "free". Very good for long figurehead carving period by example. There are different kind of height adjustable table: cylinder, hydraulic jack but electric are the most versatile to adjust the height. Working at the good height is so much easier to work... and not only for the rigging!
  4. For the last few months, I tried to get a new spot for lighting. Made of 2 parts, the first one was already available but the second part just came out on the market and I finally got one. The difference with the other LED lights is the power, much more. The light is in 2 parts, a spot and a zoom also the shape of the light can be adjusted in many shapes like circle, square rectangle and so on. With only 1 light now, I can take photos inside the model. On a parallel path, I tried some new knives: japan kitchen knives and I am still pushing the art of sharpening which consist in raising and removing the burr. I can sharp a knife which will have no resistance passing through a tomato but I cannot do it on a regular basis. I watched many videos on you tube and everybody has his own way to do it. Sharpening a knife can be a very satisfying experience when you see what is a sharp knife. I am still learning the process and I learned new words in sharpening: Edge leading sharpening vs edge trailing.
  5. I did many test with knives. An Exacto does not cut very much. On the photo, from top to bottom, the less to the most cutting. Cutting is mostly about the blade but it is also about the handle. With a small handle with no grip, you cannot deliver a lot of power to cut.
  6. Unfortunately, I am not building the Bellona but a French 74, so 8 windows are not enough and I restart the job again for 10.
  7. The work will now be aft outside. In preparation the windows. The process of building is exactly as a real home wall framing, openings, covering the walls, moldings. Many windows are fake, meaning no glass, and a black back. I revisited the notes from the first forum about it. In 2009, with Jack Nastyface and Wacko Wolf we had an interesting discussion about these fake windows. The fake windows are mostly on the sides, For 6 windows, 1 1/2 is true, on each side. I am actually working on the framing that I began few years ago. Unfortunately, I have a big dilemma about the number of windows on the first deck which is 10. With the fake windows, they wanted to give the illusion that the ship was much important than it really was. I began the work by covering the beams. Working this way, it means that there would be 8 windows. But in this megalomania, on the plans, unfortunately, for me, there are 10 windows. Maybe, I should have done the same 74 as Mark, the Bellona which has 8 windows at the first level. So, now the question is will I be cheating or undoing some works? Fortunately, model ship building is not the only pleasure. I like to make adaptors, sometimes called jig and sometimes called tool. I always try to apply the same principles. It must fill a need, it must be as simple as possible, it must be made as fast as possible, when metal is not required, plastic or wood is used. I bought a brush made with v dents to clean the polishing wheels. Very efficient to clean.
  8. The answer is not necessarily a cordless drill. Foredom has few models with cord which are lighter than a cordless drill, simply because there is no battery and the electric cable is not annoying.
  9. The other reason why you cant mill steel with a drill press , in fact you can, but everything will be jumping on the table, because lack of rigidity. For small wood parts, there should be no problems to mill as long as you have the proper vise.
  10. I would say: I don't like to look directly bright LED, it is like looking directly at the sun, it has a blinding effect. This is why LED light should have intensity control to adjust to the work you want to do. Before LED lighting, it was halogen lighting. In a way it is similar in lighting to a warm LED, they both add orange in the colors. LED lighting can not only be useful for photography but for working also. To maximize LED lighting, you should use the right amount of lighting: not too little, you will not see everything and not too much, everything will be too bright and also you will not see everything. This is why it is preferable to be able to adjust the intensity. In fact it will be the same thing with photography, light intensity needs to be adjust.
  11. This subject comes back again and again. You can search. In 1 line: I apply 1 coat of tung oil and the wipe the surplus. I tried many other but the best results are with tung oil. Example on the photo, the right part has not yet oil.
  12. Hi Allen, Each scale has different challenges of construction and tools. Building at 1/200 is different than 1/24 and is also different than 1/1. Details disappears with smaller scales and they appear with larger scales.
  13. I recently hurt my leg so, I will not be working very much on the model for a while I began this actual model in 2017 and I use Lightroom as a catalogue for the photos. Up to this day, over 3250 photos are classified in files. I have selected 12 photos representing my vision of this model through light variations in photography. After selecting these photos, it is clear that most of the photos were taken inside the model ship of a 74 guns at 1/24 scale. This model, is the fourth one of this series. Each model had different goals. One goal, for this model is to try to photograph inside all the decks at the same time and if possible to have a good level of lighting at each deck. To get there, the deck planking is as far as possible: absent, so that more light can go through. 3 types of cameras were used: camera, action camera and phone camera. For the photos inside the model, the action camera works best and sometime, when I get lucky, the phone camera gives good results, but I rarely use the camera phone. What would be the best advice I could give to an aspiring photographer? Light is always the first thing to check. there are also 2 other things that I always take great care: First, I always photograph as close as possible to the same height of the object. By example, if I take a photo of the outside model, I will position the camera at the same height of the model or even lower sometimes. At the contrary, if I take a photo at a much higher position than the model, it will look like more like a toy. Second, I always check so that the camera is parallel with the horizon. These simple 2 advices will get more realistic photos simply because it will be as if the photo was taken at the same height as the human eye. It is never interesting for the eye to see a model which is not parallel with the horizon.
  14. This morning, I tried to understand WB in less than a page:
  15. My surface grinder and my Hardinge lathe run on 3 phases... and I have only 2 phases. The third phases that also runs on 240 volts is supplied by a motor, through a rotary phase converter.
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