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Gaetan Bordeleau

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    Quebec, Canada

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  1. I use walnut stain made from walnut shell https://ardec.ca/en/p/62/walnut-stain The color has to be fix with alchool. I also do some other mix with beewax and other components depending of the results I want I am not sure you use a good method to turn ropes, look like some turns are missing to hold every thing together.
  2. Thank you Mark, it was educational for me as well. I watched a lot of video up to Seki knife festival in Japan. I also watched many video on sharpening and everyone had his way, but it was always about the same thing: making a Burr and Polishing.
  3. It is a good thing to know where is the blade without necessarily seeing it. I like to watch on Historia channel a program called Fire and steel, a competition to make and test a knife: blade and handle. Every time they test durability by hitting the knife on hard objects when the handle is round, the handle slips in the hand and reduce the performance of the blade: the judge does not like that. I think that the size of the handle is also important. Just like it is easier to build at 1/48 scale than 1/184, because the part is easier to hold. I think that the same rule can apply here. I knew that I have more control with a bigger handle and I think that this one reason.
  4. One last element to add at this level a double wall filled with sand. Before it is too heavy to turn upside down, 1 coat of tung oil is applied below first deck outside, it gives a complete different look to the cherry wood. I did a photo of a word program text. Before I was able to copy text from outside MSW, but now when I copy text, it is included as a photo in small definition!!! My search for knives continue. I ordered new blades to try, assembly require.
  5. Congratulation Mark, You have succeeded in an area that I have never try and an area that I will never try. I would prefer to turn 144 guns instead.
  6. Vossiewulf, ounce again you have the answer, I will surely try the first one.
  7. Vossiewulf, for a model ship maker, I find it difficult to find a good place to buy a ''good'' knife. Rarely, they mention the kind of steel and often the price is in relation of the name but not in relation of how good it performs.
  8. Today's photos. Yesterday, I got a Sashimi knife. I did regrind it in a V shape. This way, this knife, can be use with both hands; left or right. To give an idea how it performs, I easily got few millimeters thick slices in a very mature tomato. I did try the last knives I got, and it is clear that scalpels are out of the game. As the doctor said scalpels are made to cut skin. I said many times that scalpels works fine, and it is not false, but a knife with a stronger blade can be as sharp as a scalpel blade and greater strength can be use, a better control with a heavier knife is also possible. I tried the knife from Vossiewulf and it works better than a scalpel also. You just need to add a handle. Just like there are many shapes for carving knives, there are also many shapes for a hobby knife depending of what we are cutting. May be, another avenue, to buy a ready to use knife, I also got, yesterday a knife from Flexcut carving tools. I already have one from this company which is OK. The new one is Wittlin jack with 2 blades. I will try it to compare...
  9. Fitting the walls means adjust, adjust and adjust. The next step will be to add the doors. How to fit on a 3/32 shaft or another diameter, a 3 jaw chuck. To check horizontal surface, I taped a bubble level on a try square, easy to read.
  10. just found this: Belgian and Irish linen yarn by the pound https://www.camillavalleyfarm.com/knit/linen.htm
  11. At the opposite, if the blade is too high, the blade will be touching the wood at the front and back. If the wood is not parallel when the blade touch the wood in the back... it will cut again, and this we do not want.
  12. Manual turning, by similar steps, at an average of 2 by day means around a month for a 74...but you have to glue the monograms.

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