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Gaetan Bordeleau

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    Quebec, Canada

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  1. Actually,I am experimenting macro photography with a ring light around the lens.The 65mm and the 100 are useful for this. It is not every lens which are compatible. For the 74, the 100mm was used. By example, we can take photos of flowers outside. With the same set up, we can also take photos inside the 74. In a parallel project, I continue to explore ways to take photos inside the 74 in multiple levels at the same time. It is particularly difficult especially with the lighting. It is the kind of project which could be done easily with a 3D model, but this is not the road I want to travel.
  2. https://www.wiltontools.com/us/en/c/machine-vises-milling/W200 Wilton vises 1 axis, 2 axis, or 3 axis. This one is a milling machine angle vise 2 axis. https://www.busybeetools.com/search?q=milling+vise
  3. Proxxon is an excellent choice, the rpm is 20,000 and you need high speed to mill in wood.
  4. It is sure worth to go to see this site: a very fine crafted model.
  5. Finally, the solution was easy, I just needed 6 more inches between the camera and the model ship. I thought I was going to take the model to the ground which involved a lot of manipulation. Instead, I found an easier solution: remove 1 ceiling tile.
  6. Photoshop calls it automatisation/ photomerge, but this is not the road I want to take. I will retry to do it in 1 shot.
  7. 2 photos could be an option to get the model complete.I am not familiar with stitching images. I did not realize that I was missing the extremities, I was focused on the quality of the light. I did a fast try but to get a perfect match is difficult as you can see in the photo. I will do another try, focusing on taking the complete model. If the model is still too high, I will take it out of the dentist chair, this way I would get 3 more feet of distance and then it would be easy to get the full model.
  8. Thank you for your comments. The wood camera studio stand is replaced by a metal one. I machined few adaptors for the final goal: to take a photo from the top of the model ship boat. This is a difficult task because the camera has almost to touch the ceiling to be able to see the entire 8 feet long model at a distance of less than 3 feet. Of course, a wide angle lens is required. Here is how it works; the camera transfer a live view image to the lap top and then the photo transfers to the TV. This way, I can easily see behind the camera.
  9. I had a Unimat and I sold it, I have a Myford and I would never sell it. It is the lathe I use the most. Myford lathes are perfect to make tools and I made a lot. Proxxon is much more smaller and is also for much smaller parts.
  10. I know that we saw some models made of paper but in my head there is something like of impossible. I must admit by seeing your results, it is very convincing and also, a very fast technic.
  11. The midlle third of the miling cutter was grinded with a wheel for carbide. This way, the cutter has a smaller diameter than the diameter of the cutters. Before the diameter on the top of the cutting part was larger. This meant that the cutter could not go deeper than the area which is sharpened as a cutter. This also means that I could not mill through the wood part completely. Now, the cutter can go through completely.
  12. just like a knife that cannot cut; sharpening is possible or may be buy a better quality
  13. Thank you GranpaPhil Sorry to disappoint you Chuck, but my name is not Gerard and yes I use 100% cherry wood. I f you look the second before last photo; half down is coated with tung oil and the top is not covered with anything yet. I tried many finishes and to my eye, for cherry 1 coat of tung oil is enough, 3 is too much. I bought many batches of cherry wood and never had 2 identical batch, always different color. for this batch, here is an example inside the model:with and without tung oil. In a way we could say that the "real color" comes tung oil. It is like aging the wood 100 years in 1 hour only.

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