canoe21

hello Charlene....aka:  J.A.   a big welcome from the northeast!   always glad to see new modelers enter the fold.......I think your going to enjoy it as much as we do!   your right on track.........that's what we usually do........dry fit the frame.......and then sit there and think.   are those plans 1:1 with the model?   I like the way they show the parts.  not to put an idea in your mind,  but this particular hull is fairly common to a couple of other ships........a scratch build could very well come from those plans       ..........that is,  if you want to scare Jerry further       ain't I a stinker!  :D
 
I look forward in seeing your progress 

Welcome to the "Newsboy" 1854 build log,
 
1st the spars.  Key points include:
 
>>> Studding booms and studding irons were added (not shown on original plans)
>>> Spar design sketches were prepared using parabolic camber
>>> Spars were turned from birch dowels using a Jet mini-lathe
>>> Spars were turned using fine sanding sticks
>>> A digital caliper is a great tool for checking diameter during turning
>>> Rigging ironwork was a combination of Britania castings (Bluejacket) and silver brazed brass fittings (see photo)
>>> Design of rigging ironwork based on contemporary rigging plans
>>> Initial spar outfit based on Rigging Setup Lists
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
Next step is rigging planning / setup.  1st step is to develop a "Standing and Running Rigging Table" in a similar form to that found in Steel's Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking, and Rigging (1794).  The table lists each rigging line, size, color, fittings, etc.  Data is taken from the plans and compared to data from other ships.  Rigging lines, chains, blocks, deadeyes, etc. are sized based on standard rigging materials I have in stock (note that I was unable to post a sample).
 
2nd step is developing rigging setup lists where rigging lines, blocks, and fittings are assigned to individual spars for pre outfit installation prior to mounting aloft.  Lists are prepared for the hull, bullwarks, masts, and individual spars.  A sample is shown below:
 
Fore Upper Topsail Yard
 
(2) .015” x 1/16” brass bands (parrel hinges)
(1) .015” x 1/16” brass strip & 1/32” brass tube (parrel assembly)
(3) 1/16” Bristol board yard bands
(2) Drill holes for (2) yard sheaves (topgallant sheets)
(2) Studding boom quarter iron
(2) 3/32” Eyebands
(2) Studding boom irons
(20) Small eyebolts (jackstays)
(2) .020” Brass rod (jackstays)
(2) 3/32” Brass split rings w .015” black line (foot ropes)
(2) Small eyebolts w .015” black line (Flemish horses)
(2) Medium eyebolts w 3.5mm D blocks (topgallant sheets & upper topsail downhauls)
(2) 3.5mm S blocks (upper topsail downhauls)
(2) Medium eyebolts w .010” black line (loose servings) (upper topsail yard lifts)
(2) .015” black line 2” w 4mm S blocks (upper topsail yard brace pendants)
 
The following picture illustrates initial pre outfit based on these setup lists.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
As I completed the hull and hull outfit, I started to examine the masts, spars, and rigging.  After consultation with a number of master builders at the USS Constitution Ship Modelers Guild; I decided to fit a full fore top in lieu of the cross trees shown on the original plans.  Key points include:
 
>>> Full fore top more typical on fully rigged ships
>>> Cross trees more typical in schooner rigged vessels
>>> Curved fore top provides improved clearance for rotating yards/sails when tacking 
>>> New fore top design based on drawings of other contemporary vessels
>>> New fore top sized to suit original cross trees
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome to the "Newsboy" 1854 build log,
 
The following pictures document the completion of hull and deck outfit.  Future posts will address planning, fabrication, rigging setup, and installation of masts, spars, standing and running rigging.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome to the "Newsboy" 1854 build log,
 
Work continues on completing the deck outfit.  Key points include:
 
>>> Two boats were fitted (my decision vs. one shown on the plans) 
>>> Boats were fabricated from laminated basswood around a CL bulkhead
>>> Boat interiors were not hollowed out or detailed
>>> After painting, boats were dowelled and lashed in place on the forward house
>>> Anchors were fabricated and lashed in place
>>> Anchor chains were fitted to the anchors and windlass
>>> Forward and main house were glued in place
>>> Forward bell was fitted to the Sampson post
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome to to the "Newsboy" 1854 build log,
 
With the deck houses complete, lets continue with the deck outfit.  Key points include:
 
>>> Fiferails were built up from stripwood
>>> Fiferail stanctions were Bluejacket castings
>>> Forward fiferail left loose (2 pieces) for installation after completion of fore lower yard lift and fore lower topsail sheet tackles
>>> 2 deck pumps fitted to permit pumping out P/S of keel and for redundency (1 shown on plans)
>>> 2 water casks fitted based on contemporary practice (not shown on plans)
>>> Water casks were planked over basswood plugs
>>> Belaying pins (brass) were chemically treated and installed
 
As noted, I feel free to add to plan details based on contemporary practice where I see something missing.  After all, most ship model plans are only reconstructions.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854
 
More deck house construction pictures are included.  Key points include:
 
>>> House top planking was fabricated from glued up plank sheet
>>> House top margin planks were painted prior to installation
>>> Companionway was fitted to the main house
>>> Skylight was fitted to main house (lesson learned: on future builds I will fit this into the house top planking with a shallow coaming and leave it open to create depth
>>> Smoke pipes were fitted to both houses
>>> Access ladder was fitted to aft side of forward house
>>> Boat rails were fitted to the forward house
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome,
 
Some more deckhouse pictures.  Key points include:
 
>>> Deck house bulkheads were glued to together and to their respective coamings using the deck cutout to ensure squareness
>>> Deck beams were fitted
>>> Note windlass pump handles stowed on the forward house front
>>> Note that coamings will not be glued to the hull until all adjacent outfit has been fitted
>>> Note this construction sequence gives a clean paint line between the house sides and coamings
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
With respect to achieving clean paint lines, I try to consider painting in my assembly sequence.  Where possible, pieces are painted prior to final installation to minimize the need for masking (e.g. spray rail, cap rails, catheads in 2 pieces, hatch coamings, etc.).
 
Next steps include fabrication and installation of the deck houses.  The house sides/ends are laminated over false bulkheads with planking and posts to simulate the prototype.  Deckhouse panels are fitted to the respective coamings during construction, and the house assemblies are glued to the coamings before final installation on the model.  For illustration the forward house scantlings/materials are listed below:
Side/end backing – 3/64” sheet stock Coaming inserts & interior stiffening – 3/64” sheet stock & 3/32” sq. strip wood Corner posts – 3/32” sq. strip wood Side/end planking – 1/32” x 3/32” strip wood Side/end upper trim – 3/64” x 3/32” & 1/32” sq. strip wood Window trim – 1/32” sq. strip wood Window shutters – 1/32” x 3/64” grooved planking Door outer frames – 3/64” x 3/32” strip wood Door inner frames – 3/64” x 3/32” strip wood Door panels – 1/32” sheet stock Deck beams – 1/8” x 3/16” strip wood Deck planking – 1/16” x 3/64” glued up decking Deck margin planks – 3/64” x 3/32” strip wood (use 1/16” x 3/32” for future builds) Ladder rails – 1/32” x 3/32” strip wood Ladder steps - .020” brass wire Boat rails – 3/32” sq. strip wood Windlass brake handle stowage – 3/64” sq. strip wood Stovepipe – 3/32” brass tubing Coaming finish – Clipper Pearl Blue Cabin finish – Warm White Cabin deck finish – Ipswich Pine/Bartley Gel Varnish Cabin deck margin planks  - Clipper Pearl Blue Ladder rails, boat rails, windlass brake handle stowage – Warm White Ladder steps – Floquil Engine Black Stovepipe finish – Floquil Engine Black Peter Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854,
 
Next step is after deck outfit.  Key points include:
 
>>> Binacle redesigned based on contemporary ship model plans (original was undersized for 3/16" scale)
>>> Binacle was sheathed with walnut veneer over a solid block 
>>> Ships bell HO scale fitting from Cale Scale
>>> Main sheet block fitted to waterway (to avoid access issues)
>>> Steering enclosure built up from laminated panels, install in coaming, and glued in place
>>> Grating panels fitted for steering station
>>> Mooring bitts built up from laminated stripwood and doweled in place
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thanks for your interest in "Newsboy" 1854
 
With exterior hull outfit complete, next step is the foredeck outfit.  Key points include:
 
>>> Anchor windlass redesigned based on contemporary ship model plans (original was undersized for 3/16" scale)
>>> Anchor windlass kit bashed from Bluejacket casting kit
>>> Anchor windlass previously dry fitted before deck planking installation (to locate thick pads)
>>> Windlass pump handles will be stowed on the main house front
>>> Cleats fitted to catheads
>>> Hatch covers fitted to coamings & glued in place
>>> Mooring bitts fabricaled from laminated strip wood & dowled in place
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder 

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy",
 
Next steps continue the installation od deck / hull outfit components.  Key points include:
 
>>> At this point, hatch / house coamings have not been glued in place
>>> New nameboard installed on spray rails (to improve contrast against rails)
>>> Anchor billboard sheathed with tectured Bristol board (goor representation of wought iron)
>>> Lower deadeyes installed (previously fitted with temporary mast)
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Ship Modelers,
 
Next steps include installation of the bowsprit, bowsprit rigging, catheads, forward cap rails, spray rails, and ship's name. Key points include:
 
>>> Bowsprit & jibboom dry fitted
>>> Bowsprit painted & pre outfitted with rigging hardware
>>> Forestay lower deadeyes installed (to avoid access issues later)
>>> Bowsprit installed
>>> Bobstays fitted and made up (4 1/2" 15 link chain w deadeyes)
>>> Upper catheads painted & installed
>>> Forward cap rail assemble painted and installed
>>> Spray rail fitted, sanded to final shape, & painted
>>> Ship's name plates installed (later replaced w improved name plates)
 
These steps complete all outfit in the inverted position. Future posts will address completing the balance of hull and deck outfit.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Additional pictures of copper sheathing.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Next step is design and installation of copper sheathing. Key points include:
 
>>> Layout designed similar to clipper ship "Flying Fish"
>>> Copper design includes upper and lower gore strakes and a single cap row
>>> Copper sheathing 1/4" self adhesive copper tape (from Bluejacket)
>>> Plate size 1/4" x 3/4" (16" x 48") larger overlap results in scale width plates
>>> Waterline established by use of surface guage
>>> Installation guided by strips of blue painters tape
>>> Installation starts from stern post and keel working up and forward
>>> Rudder gudgens modeled with thin Bristol board
>>> Final installation sealed with wiping varnish
 
I always enjoy this portion of the build as it adds a lot of color to the model.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy"
 
"Newsboy" 1854 has been underway for some time.  The following are a few notes on my ship modeling techniques:
Construction is sequenced to minimize interferences, rework, and need for paint masking Construction sequence standard across builds (e.g. mid-1800's merchant sail, solid hull; mid-1800's merchant sail, machine carved hull; and, late 1700's naval sail, plank on bulkhead, etc.) Construction sequence standardized across builds (to extent possible) Test pieces used to evaluate methods, design details, paint colors, etc. (see below) Standard material lists used for repetative construction (e.g. deckhouse construction, deck fittings, etc.) Standard purchased/fabricated parts used across builds Standard materials, fittings, etc. evaluated based on full scale dimensions Rigging setup lists used to plan rigging installation spar by spar Rigging setup lists based on previous builds Thickness differences matter (e.g. deckhouse bulkhead laminations, cap rails, plankshear, etc.) Fittings, details, and arrangements redesigned where neccessary based on contemporary practice (e.g. "Newsboy binnacle, anchor windlass, fore top, etc.) Construction plans, material lists, rigging lists, design details, suppliers, etc. used across builds Lessons learned and pier evaluations used to increase skills Some of the above are based on my modeling preferences and some are based on my professional approach to applying world class manufacturing techniques to shipbuilding (design rules, design standards, standard equipment, standard fittings, modular construction, standard processes, etc.).  Note that these are my personal choice, and some may not be suitable for other shipmodelers.  
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

With the cap rails in place, the model can now be worked in the inverted position.  This provides easy access for painting and installing the "Newsboy" figurehead:
 
>>> Figurehead was a casting from the original kit
>>> Painting was with Floquil lacquor and fine artest brushers
>>> Figurehead was securred with a fine pin and epoxy glue
 
My next postings will cover the design and installation of copper sheathing.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Next step was drafting/installing the ships name. Key points include:
 
>>> Stern name, hailing port, and bow name were developed using MS Word
>>> Stern name and hailind port were expanded (curved) to look properly when installed
>>> Bow names were raked to suit stem profile
>>> Bow names will be installed on spray rails (later in the construction sequence)
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

This posting will cover the pin rails, channels, cap rails, and installing the plankshear. Key points include:
 
>>> Pin rails installed to suit rigging plans
>>> Channels installed to suit run of shrouds and backstays (runs simulated w dowels)
>>> Cap rails fabricated from 3/64" sheet stock w scarf joints
>>> Caprails trimmed with 3/64" double bead stock
>>> Padding for anchor stowages was installed
>>> Interior bulwarks painted before installing cap rails and upper catheads
>>> Exterior hull painted before installing cap rails, upper catheads, and plankshear
>>> Forward cap rail left loose to suit installation of bowsprit
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Next up is the interior bulwark framing. Key construction points include:
 
>>> Timberheads were 3/32" x 3/32"
>>> Heavy framing forward where the stem rakes forward
>>> Catheads built in (2) pieces to follow paint line
>>> Framing for bulwark sheaves included
>>> Framing for mooring ports included
>>> Mooring ports fabricated from flattened brass tube with brass wire lips
>>> Hause pipes fabricated from brass tube with brass wire lips
>>> Chain pipes were fabricated from brass tube/sheet
>>> Wood/iron cleats included to suit rigging plan
>>> Construction/installition sequenced to suit paint boundries
 
Next steps include the pin rails, channels, cap rails, etc.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

One more post to finish off the deck planking. Key Points include:
 
>>> Planking fitted from the centerline working outboard
>>> Margin planks and nibbing worked from both the bow and stern
>>> Care taken to maintain a symetrical nibbing pattern P/S (select even width planks)
>>> Deck scuppers (5/32" thin wall brass tubing) drilled prior to fitting outboard planking
>>> Following completion of all planking; coamings, waterways, covering boards, windlass support planks removed for painting
>>> Planking finished with several coats of Minwax "Ipswich Pine" oil stain followed by multiple coats of Bartley's "oil based wiping varnish" ribbed down with ultra fine steel wool
>>> After finishing/painting; coamings, waterways, covering boards, windlass support planks were reinstalled
>>> Deck scuppers were installed from the outside and sanded flush (outside surface)
 
This completes the deck planking. As time permits, we will continue with the interior bulwark framing and finally finish off the cap rails.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Thank you for your interest in "Newsboy"
 
With the deck framing complete, next steps include deck planking, waterways, covering boards, deck scuppers, hause & chain pipes. I enjoy this work as it requires some design work to optain the desired effect and with finishing it will start to give the model some color. Key points include:
 
>>> Deck planking fitted around hatch/house coamings, anchor windlass support planks, etc,
>>> Deck planking and margin planks fitted to waterway planks
>>> Deck planking nibbed into margin planks
>>> 1/16" x 3/32" deck planking
>>> Caucking simulated with black non-blead fabric markers (quick pass on one edge only)
>>> Waterways rise forward as covering board/plankshear have greater shear than deck planking
>>> Coamings, waterways, covering boards, and anchor windlass support planks left loose (final installation after painting and deck finishing)
 
It should be noted that this arrangement is typical of vessels build with machine cut planks. Prior to the advent of machine sawed planks, ~1800, deck planking often curved and was nibbed inboard into adjacent planks.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

In surveying the machine carved hull; I found that the deck surface was too low, lacked adequate camber, and lacked shear forward.
 
This problem was corrected by fitting a deck framing system constructed from bass strip wood. After completing/fairing the deck framing system, the location of major deck structures were laid out. The mast holes were drilled at this time with the aid of a pedistal drill press.
 
In preparation for deck planking the following were fabricated:
>>> Hatch/house coaming were fabricated with half lapped corners
>>> Bowsprit, jibboom, dolphin striker, and Samson post
>>> Anchor windlass (used portions of a Bluejacket windlass kit)
 
With the heavy construction complete, future construction will turn to the finer points of deck planking, deck furniture, etc.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

With the exterior hull planking complete, the next challenge was carving the bulwark interior surfaces. Carving was done with sharp gouges, sanding sticks, and an electronic thickness guage.
 
Note that in installing the exterior counter planking, two coats of wood glue was used to ensure the glue had an opportunity to soak into the the end grain of the counter. This created a strong ply type structure that could withstand the strain of carving out the bulwarks' interior.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder