canoe21

Hi Bob,
Have you left room for the rudder stock to pass up to the deck ? and room for the rudder to pivot.
I added extra supports either side, for the planks to glue to and the hatch between. 
 

 
Dave R

First thank you for all the like and remarks and input, much appreciated :)
 
I was waiting for the first problem to pop up and here it is.
 
4 blocks of Balsa to make the shape of the bluff bow

 
2 blocks to be fitted each side into the space at the bow

The problem is Occre have supplied blocks meant for a smaller kit
They measure            15mm x 80mm x 100mm
But they should be      23mm x 80mm x 115mm
So no chance of filling the spaces at the bow.
I will contact my supplier on Monday to get replacements, So there will be a delay in the build until they arrive
 

Finally finished the first planking
 

My brass is thoroughly cleaned first with hot soapy water then rinsed then dried. It is then cleaned again in Actone then rinsed again a few time them it is left to dry.
My pitting occured using the Birchwood Casey diluted to 50/50 and it was used cold and the blackening never worked just some crusty black bits which fell off.
But to give the Birchwood Casey the benefit of the doubt the second lot of brass on my Gun section was not very good as i could see it looked like it was left lying around somewhere damp for years.
The reason i use the Krick warmed is because it says so on the instructions and it always works for me

Many thanks for all the comments and likes they are very much appreciated :)
 
Small update
I have fitted the end deck finishing planks and the framing around the rudder hatch
Note the free dog hair supplied with the main hatch cover



 
 

The manual said to construct the main hatch in place in the deck but i thought it was easier to do it on my workspace
Underneath view shows the ridge that fits in the hole on the deck

 
Main hatch finished with blackened eye bolts an rings fitted

 
Main hatch in place in the deck

 
 

Started On some of the hatchways
The kit supplies Lime wood for this and says to paint it a Walnut colour
Forecastle deck hatch

 
Hatch painted and glued in place on the deck

 
For some unknown reason the manual says to make up a ladder then cut it short, Then glue a block onto the lower deck and fit the ladder on to this, as show in the following photo

 
This seemed to be ridiculous because the ladder will reach the deck anyway, so i left it the correct length and fitted it directly on to the deck and omitted the block

 

Painted and planked the inside of the bulwarks.
The first row of planks, where the deck and the bulwarks meet, were painted before fitting, to give a nice tidy edge

Thanks for all the likes and comments guys
 
Fitted and planked the next three decks and fitted the bulwark patterns



 

The keel and bulkheads on this kit are only 4mm thick and after fitting the deck, the joints were a little bit flimsy, so i fitted some strengthening pieces to the joints

 
Lower deck planked and cross beams for the next deck fitted
There was no reason to plank this deck at all as none of it will be seen later, so i used some thinner planking and saved the kit supplied planking in case i need it later in the build

 

Thanks for all the comments and likes, greatly appreciated
All Bulkheads glued into place

 
All seems to line up length ways too

 
Used the straight edge on half the lower deck and marked it out for planking

 
Lined up the other half of the deck against it by sticking them down together with double sided tape and then transfered the markings across


 
Carefully removed the two halves from the double sided tape then laid a strip of planks along one edge then fitted and glued both halves to the keel and bulkheads
When it's all dried, deck planking will begin
Planks have been cut to 100mm in length and will be laid in a 5 butt system in a 13524 pattern

Started gluing the bulkheads in place using engineers squares to keep them square to the keel
 


 

Last part of the slipway build
Placed the keel in the slot in the slipway and dry fitted the bulkheads

 
Marked out where the bulkheads cross the slipway

 
Removed keel and cut slots where the bulkhead markings where

 
Replaced the keel and made sure bulkheads sat in the slots cut out for them

 
Checked that the bulkheads were clear of the base of the slipway insuring that they sat all the way down in their slots

 
Long winded way of doing it but by starting with two long strips and then cutting slots in them i know all the pieces are perfectly in line with each other (nothing like piece of mind before continuing)
 

Think it's time to start a new build log
As usual first thing is a homemade slipway to keep the keel straight
 
Glue the two halves of the keel together

 
There are two strengthening parts to fit to the joint but not yet

 
Built the slipway first

 
Keel without the strengthening parts fitted

 
Keel now square to the slipway

 
Cut a slot in the slipway to allow the strengthening pieces to be fitted

Out in garage, cutting some spare hatch covers. I had a thought of maybe painting the hatch covers so I thought making some practice ones would be a good idea.

 
Covers and hatch got a total of six coats of spray on satin varathane


 
To attach the rope handles to the hatch covers I decided to use zip siezings. The rope I am using for the handles is .025 in. or .633 mm from Syren. The zip siezings are 1.3 mm i.d. and 1.77 mm o.d. and approx. 1.5 mm long

 
First step is to thread two siezings onto the line, after stiffening the end of the line with ca then cutting the end at an angle

 
Then run rope through the bottom and back down from the top. Then insert the end of the line though the two siezings

 
Flatten one side of an appropriate size of dowel to the proper height, in this case 3 mm, and adjust the rope around it.

 
When adjusted properly turn it over, glue and cut the ends off. In the macro picture it looks kind of bulky but in reality it looks good.

 
Finally here is how they look. Now 19 more to go

 
Have a Good Night

Good evening folks, did a little work on the stowage hatch and thought I'd show some pictures.
 
This one is showing the location marked out and ready to cut

 
Here the hatch has been cut out using a rotary tool and a 1 mm end mill bit( a little shaky on the cut, should have had a beer maybe )

 
The hatch has been trimmed up and sanded using a sanding block\

 
The hatch has been built and am cleaning up the covers

 
This how it looks installed

 
I did not take any pictures of the construction of the hatch. It is basically two boxes built around each other. The only minor problem was when I was sanding the two inside end panels. I was using the disc sander sanding both pieces at once and did not realise one had moved forward, so I sanded that end flush, turned it end for end and sanded flush again. Although all ends were very smooth and even the pieces were now 3 mm too short.    
 So after singing a beautiful happy song it was out to the garage to make two new ones  

 
Here I am packed up and ready to go to garage to spray some varathane

Thanks you all for your visits and comments it is really appreciated
 
Well it's been a long time since my last update. After many hours on pondering as how to approach the deck planking I decided to go with Zoran's(MarisStella) approach. The biggest reason being is that there is a central 17 mm wide plank that goes down the middle it would cover up any mast holes, pawl holes and one of the hatch holes. So I decided to plank the deck first and do the cutting out later. Planking went real good, I changed it a little by putting walnut at the bow and stern a blood wood plank then the cherry planks. I went with a four plank rotation, a big thanks goes to Ulises Victoria for his great tutorial on how to plank a deck http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Deck_PlankingIIbuttshifts.pdf.
 It was a lot of work and many hours but it is finally finished, scraped and sanded. She is approximately 175 mm x 520 mm at the largest points and took about 220 planks to cover it. Next I will cut out the main hatch then install the central strip followed by the remaining holes required.
I am really looking forward when all forms of planking are done  
 
Enjoy the pics
Take Care
 

Hi Don,
this is a fine build (or more than that). This all looks all right... I wanted to say something about the deck : MarisStella's models has the real shape of the deck , this means that every deck has a Camber Curve and a Sheer Line Curve... In the other words, each deck is bent across the cross-section and along the longitudinal section... So the deck's base can not be done of some flat veneer or plywood... The deck's base is made of strips placed one by the other and glued to the tops of the bulkheads... After doing this, the base needs to be sanded , treated with the wood putty and polished... After this it is good to draw the lines where the deck beams should pass below the deck. Those lines show the places of the deck's planks connections. The lines help in the next step : The gluing, from the stern to the tip of the bow, 0,5x5mm strips on the so prepared deck surface (base). Start from the middle and go to the left and right ends of the construction. So, plank the deck following the top view shown in the plan.
   Before gluing to the deck surface, on each strip cut a thin cut. The cuts are shown in the top view of the deck. It will look like it is, instead of the one long strip, several small bars lined up in a row. This procedure will give a very realistic look to the deck later.

   Setting up the central part of the deck is the next. This element may be broken up in the places where the storage's hatch and the opening for the masts are. It has not to be formed of one part. When you glue it into place, by grinding inward the central part of the deck askew slightly. The deck rail, that frames the deck, is the next to be set...

   Then adjusting visually fitting of the deck is to be done , as in the plan, drilling holes Ø 0.3 mm on the deck (you can use a needle) and fill them with a mixture of glue for wood and brown acrylic paint. You can also use colored putty for wood. When the mixture is dry, sand and polish the deck.

   In this way You get the ideal shape of the deck as if it were nailed with wooden pegs.

   Now the answer to Your question comes : when You get the compact, hard deck, with all of the strips glued well to the base, only then You can cut all the openings into it. You need to be careful here....

   The other thing : The bow hatch cower is to be pushed a bit in to its opening , so it will not be so high as You mentioned...

Sorry for been speaking English not very well, but I think I made not many mistakes...

Cheers Don, let me be Your (imaginary, for this moment) friend over there, take Your beer and I will take my cold coffe...

Our Trabaccolo is completed and she is ready for the national competition... I will post the photos as soon as I get them...
 
Regards to all,
Zoran

Hi Mike, thanks for stopping in. To answer your questions the dowel is 12 mm in diameter, the hole is 8.5 mm(21/64)( I did drill a smaller pilot hole first) the side walls are 1.75 mm thick and the piece sits 2.5 mm high. The tool I used to part them with is a parting tool, there are some pictures of it already but this one maybe shows a better angle of it(it is the unit on the right)
 

Thanks Zoran. I am going over the plans and I see what you are pointing out and I knew it was supposed to be like that, not sure where the heck my mind is some days   . So before I get too mad at myself and start tearing things apart I am getting dressed, going to the store and buying a pack of smokes(trying to quit) coming home and have a drink or two and a few smokes to calm down   maybe then I'll come up with a solution to this.
 Thanks for pointing this out.   

Hello all, Thanks for stopping in for a look, for all the likes and the awesome comments. Today(yesterday now) I took a day off building the Trabaccolo(sort of) and took some time to use a few of the tools I had to have but some have never used. So I built a ships wheel, yes I know the Trabaccolo has a tiller but she was a ship of trade and on one of her journeys she picked this one up, hope you enjoy:\
 
First up is the handles, actually this wasn't the first up but at the time when I started I did not think I would be showing any of this. So this is 3 mm walnut dowel, from MarisStella, the knob part is 6mm long for a total length from end to end of 12 mm and just turned on my rotary tool. I used some rifler files to do the shaping.
 

 
 These next couple of pictures are showing the handles in place,this is where I missed taking pictures. I started with a dowel, trued it up on the lathe then mounted the chuck on the rotary table(also mounted to a tilting table) that is attached to the mill. I drilled the 8 edge holes at 1.5 mm using a end mill bit, then laid the table assembly to the horizontal position.  I made the centre hole using a 3 mm end mill bit then moved it over to within 2mm of the outside edge and cut a 3 mm wide groove(rabbit).
 


 
 As you can see the wood was really breaking apart, this was just a piece of an old broom handle, so everything got a coat of thin ca. After glue was dry it was put back on lathe and separated(again no pictures) using the parting tool. Doing it this way solves the problem of getting the hub centred as it is still one piece
 

 
These next two pictures are just turning down some brass for the centre hub (not rocket science but first time for me  ) the piece is about .5 mm thick and 8mm in diameter, I think it could have been  a little smaller but I was trying to cover up the wooden hub.
 

 
And here is the result of my "fun day", it measures 31.5 mm from knob end to knob end. Still needs a light sanding and some wipe on poly, it should look real good in the cargo hold as it only has eight handles instead of the proper ten   .
 

 
 The next "fun day" may see a stand and drum for it

Julie, when you finish the Endeavor, build the, "I Shrunk the Kids", machine and run it in reverse.  Works every time.
 
Bob

She'll be very similar, John.  The roof will be different and I'm not sure about the awning.
 
Bob

Not much to show.  The holiday took a lot of my time.  But I did get the hull painted.  And I'm told the saw blade has been shipped so maybe I can start on number two.
 
Bob
 

OK!
 
Here we go.  After much effort I have things fixed enough that I can put up pictures.
 
Here is where she is at present.  Hull made, floor in and deck on.
 

 
 
Yes, I should have painted the hull before I put on the deck.  As many times as I have done this you think I would learn. 
 

 
 
This is where I hope to be going with this.  Painted hull and polished wood for the cabin.
 

 
 
More to come later.  Hopefully on the other boat.
 
Bob