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dkuzminov

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Everything posted by dkuzminov

  1. dkuzminov
    If I understood correctly which putty you mean, it is not thin and has color. Intuitively I expected that transparent liquid epoxy would be the best. I'm very surprised that your repair is invisible, so could you please provide more info? The value of the cup is mostly by the fact that it was a gift. Regular "bone china". I just wish to feel that I've done the most I could do repairing it by myself.
  2. dkuzminov
    I'm using general purpose 5 min Loctite, mostly because that was the cheapest option in Walmart (less than $3 for 0.85 oz). So far so good, but 5 minutes is too fast. Anyway, except of this fast curing, the experience is almost the same as with the epoxy I used 25 years ago in the ship modelling club I attended in my childhood. I plan to get some 30 minutes epoxy, for now I'm regarding Great Planes Pro Epoxy 30-Minute Formula. Does anybody have the experience and recommendations? For the pure curiosity: what is considered to be "natural" epoxy: the slow curing one or fast curing? Are there disadvantages in any of them (e.g. PSI)? Another recommendation I'm asking: I plan to fix a porcelain cup. What are the features to pay special attention to: transparency, flexibility, strength? Could you recommend any special brand/model, especially for US market?
  3. dkuzminov
    No, that is not the case, I've shaped the bulkheads pretty well. The one that has this discolouring is the central bulkhead where the planks are perpendicular.
  4. dkuzminov
    Ok, here are the pictures. The first picture shows the tips of the planks glued with PVA to the bulkhead. The thickness of the plywood is 6mm. This seam is almost invisible. The next picture shows a bad seam where the planks bend significantly. You may see that two planks (the middle row) have torsion, and don't form the surface, partially because of the elasticity of PVA. That is the reason why I'm streightening the inner surface with epoxy (you may see epoxy glittering from the inner surface of planking):
  5. dkuzminov
    So far I've done 5 rows of planks and plan to straighten them incrementally because it would be difficult to access the inner surface later. This is a single-layer model with 2mm-thick sapelli planks and 8cm-wide moulds. Planks flex under force if not streighten with epoxy, but are much stiffer if a thin layer of epoxy is applied. There is one more reason why I've started using epoxy to streighten the hull. The tips of planks are fixed on a 6mm plywood, thus each tip covers just a 3mm of plywood. That is enough to fix the plank, but if there is a little torsion, PVA is not enough to fix the tip perfectly. Adding epoxy to the corner solves the issue.
  6. dkuzminov
    I'm applying epoxy to the inner surface of planks fastening them into a robust shell. Planks would bend while sanding otherwise. What does thickening give in this case to compare with raw epoxy? The advice about ground coffee is very surprising. Is there any benefit of ground coffee to compare with sawdust?
  7. dkuzminov
    I'm gluing planks using a PVA-like glue (the manufactorer says it is "advanced proprietary polymer"). This is an easy solution for fixing planks to the bulkhead without nails. However I'm not satisfied with the stiffness of planks, so I plan to streighten the hull with epoxy. The question I have is how does epoxy adhere to PVA seams. What are the caveats, should I clean the planks from PVA where possible, or that is not needed?
  8. dkuzminov
    Have anybody tried Deluxe Materials Sand'n'Seal to fill the dents on planking? https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51zoe26CkJL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
  9. dkuzminov
    I had a similar idea of mixing white filler with acrylic paint, but I'm afraid that this paste would be extremely marky.
  10. dkuzminov
    Is that important that it is colour changing? Is it better than other Elmer's fillers coloured with oak/mahogany/etc.?
  11. dkuzminov
    This must be the Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty: it was recommented in another topic. The description looks good, but it mostly used for furniture and other large wooden items: I'm a little worried if it is as good for fine tuning of a ship model.
  12. dkuzminov
    The Elmer's wood filler that I've seen doesn't seem strong enough. I wish to correct the shape slightly, so i plan to put several layers of the filler and sand appropriately. The color is a lower priority issue.
  13. dkuzminov
    Which wood filler do you use after planking? Most of wood fillers are white (or very light), so what do you do for the darker wood, like mahogany? Please share the experience. I planned to use HobbyLite, but this item is ending soon. What are the other options?
  14. dkuzminov
    I've got the same question. I'm going to plank Cutty Sark from Artesania Latina which is not double-planked. The instruction recommends to use nails but I have a feeling that this would spoil the whole view. I wish to collect the experiences from those who have finished nailing the planking (especially from those who finished Artesania Latina Sutty Sark) : would you use nails if you would have to repeat the assembly one more time? I've already got the answer from NenadM here, but I guess this topic is a more appropriate place to ask this question.
  15. dkuzminov
    I have a question regarding planking and using the nails. From my point of view the nails (being useful while the process of planking) spoil the final result. I haven't started planking yet, so my question is to those who finished the process: would you use nails if you would have to repeat the assembly one more time? Are there any problems with that (like sanding the body of the ship with nails in it)?
  16. dkuzminov
    I'm planning to paint a wooden ship model with acrylic paint, but the variety of different paint types makes me embarrassed. So I'm asking for an advice which one to choose. First, I'm planning to use a brush: is it a good idea? I have no workshop for airbrush, but I probably could use a spray. Next, I need matte finish. One of the options is a chalk acrylic paint: but is it a good choice for a wooden model? By default I plan to use a FolkArt chalk paint, please comment my choice. Thank you

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