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CPDDET

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  1. I've often pondered the use of an alternative to basswood. Got to be a better way and you're convincing me.
  2. Wow! Your extra time spent filling and sanding really paid off. Looks very nice and will provide a great canvas for finishing.
  3. Historical or not, hull planking is a challenge your doing well with. Congrats on the progress, Pat.
  4. Finally back in the boatyard. Had some emergency medical issues to deal with but back in fine shape now. Also decided to reorganize my work area as things were getting too cluttered. The issues I was having with the skylight are now solved and thought I would go into a bit more detail on how I solved them. The workmanship still isn't what I would like but at this stage of my skill I feel its my best effort. The two problems I was facing was building a strong enough window frame and drilling holes for the bars that would line up from the top frame to the bottom frame so
  5. Might be a good solution. I made my frames a bit thicker, 1/32, and drilled holes for the bars. Still have to assemble this. Will try using straight pins for the bars. They are 1/64 diamiter. Wish they were gold instead of silver. Will also try thinning copper wire with a draw plate for the bars.
  6. As usual, will have to test different methods on scrap material. Since the "glass" will be below the bars I sure don't want it to come loose. Might be impossible to fix.
  7. Still not sure how I will attach it to the painted basswood. I'll test CA but wonder if silicone might work better. Always something.....
  8. I'm working on the skylight as well. Plan on using Grafix Craft Plastic. Crystal clear .007 thick. Comes in 12" X 12" sheets, 4 to a package.
  9. I also had issues with the Model Expo paint and switched to Badger for airbrushing and Tamiya for brushing. You could try to run your current paint through a nylon stocking to remove the lumps. Then use a quality extender or thinner.
  10. Welcome to the best site on the web for model shipbuilding. I'll chime in on the scale of the model you choose. I'm on my first build, Bluenose, which is a 1:64th scale. That means 1 inch on the real ship equals 1/64 inch on the model, or 1 foot on the real ship equals 3/16th of an inch on the model. At this scale, details become very small and can be difficult to produce. I would advise a larger scale model for your first build. Check around this site for more information on kits, card builds, scratch builds.
  11. Could the cracking be caused by to thick of a blade? I had this happen once when trying to use a utility knife. But if your using a single edge razor blade you can't get much thinner than that. Basswood isn't the easiest stuff to work with for sure. Dents easily, difficult to cut straight and clean, tough to paint, way too absorbant and on and on.
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