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  1. Ok I took the MDF back to Home Depot and got 1/4" plywood instead. Hopefully I'll have time to make sawdust soon. I'll add some new photos when I do.
  2. Does plywood work better than MDF? I was afraid the ply would be harder to cut because of the crossed grains. I was also thinking I'd need to stick pins in the bulkheads to hold the planks in place and thought the pins would split the layers in the ply.
  3. I may have found a solution. The hardware store may not have wood suitable for modeling, but it does have sheets of 1/4" x 2'x2' MDF that might work for the planking bulkheads. I'm going to give it a try. 🙂
  4. Ok I've got a problem. I've drawn all my planking bulkheads and they need to be approximately 9"x7". As I've said earlier in this thread, I'm having a hard time finding sheets of wood wider than 4" locally, which would mean the bow and stern would need to hang over the ends of the work surface if I want to do the planking upside down as shown on this site: https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/oseberg/ Does anyone have any suggestions of how to either build upright, or to work with smaller wooden bulkheads or other materials for larger ones upside down?
  5. I took a break from painstakingly copying lines onto my keel/stem/stern parts to work on drawing bulkhead templates for planking the first 9 strakes (10-12 go on after the frames are in place). Does anyone have tips for building a jig for planking a lapstrake ship? I've never built one before and am at a bit of a loss as to how it's done. Ideally I'd like to be able to re-use the parts that keep the keel in place when I switch from bulkheads to frames. Thanks!
  6. Yeah, that's what most of the reviews say, too. Don't expect it to be as accurate as the machines that just do one thing, and let the saw do the work.
  7. https://www.amazon.com/Rockwell-BladeRunner-Portable-Tabletop-Accessories/dp/B00L47FZ8A It's basically an upside down jigsaw mounted on a small table. I like that it does multiple types of cutting without needing to buy multiple tools I can't afford. I also like that it's portable since I work on my front porch. I worry a little that it may not be up to accurately cutting out the curvy parts, but it can't do any worse than I'm doing by hand. The only things I'll need are the right T-shank jigsaw blades.
  8. Minor updates and a question. I'm still in the process of remaking the keel, stem, and stern parts. It's a slow going process with the tools I have available. I've decided to make all the scarfs before gluing and before shaping the cross sections of the parts this time, so that if any specific part gets ruined I only have to remake that part instead of all of them. Meanwhile I've decided to get a scroll saw or equivalent. Currently I'm leaning toward the Rockwell Bladerunner X2 because it also includes a fence to function as a mini table saw. I know it's not the best tool for the job, but it's inexpensive and versatile and even if it's terrible it can't be any worse than my skill level with the coping saw. Has anyone used this saw? Is it worth getting? What blades would you use for cutting basswood? Most reviews say to use Bosch jigsaw blades, but I don't know which ones to get. I already have some laying around so I'm hoping those will work, but at least they're not expensive if I need to get more.
  9. Ok, since no one has warned me away since yesterday, I'm going ahead and ordering it. What jigsaw blades would you use for 1/16" to 3/8" basswood?
  10. Sorry for reviving an ancient thread, but I’m thinking about buying this model because it’s inexpensive and also works as a mini table saw. It looks like it takes any standard jigsaw blade so I don’t think the tooth count of the blades that come with it should be an issue. I figure it’s got to be better than the coping saw I suck at using. Has anyone used this saw and if so would you recommend it for someone on a modest budget who doesn’t already have a scroll saw?
  11. Hi @Louie da fly I saw this paper today and thought you might find it interesting: https://www.academia.edu/9689593/Pulak_C._R._Ingram_and_M._Jones._2015._Eight_Byzantine_Shipwrecks_from_the_Theodosian_Harbour_Excavations_at_Yenikapı_in_Istanbul_Turkey_an_introduction._International_Journal_of_Nautical_Archaeology_vol._44.1_39-73?email_work_card=view-paper
  12. I did some more work on the keel parts last night and figured out this is more a problem of skill with the tools I have than a problem with the tools I have available. When I first cut out the pieces yesterday with the coping saw (and chisels when I got frustrated with how slow the coping saw was at cutting out the long part of the keel) I ended up with a ragged, lumpy chunk of wood. A couple hours of careful work with an x-acto knife, a plane, a sanding block, and a file cleaned them right up. While doing so I realized several mistakes I'd made on my last attempt, the foremost being, how do you tell if both sides of the keel are the same? This morning I realized all I need is a right angle to compare it against. I think I'll be ok. I'm still going to try to get a scroll saw though.
  13. How do you know if your coping saw is straight up and down / cutting at the right angle? I don't really have a good strong light other than my phone's flash, and that's hard to hold steady while cutting. I've been working on the front porch so I don't get sawdust all over the house. This also means I don't have a stable work surface.
  14. I meant a coping saw, sorry. Just wishing I had a scroll saw.

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