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  1. Looking good! I'm going to have to hurry my own project along to catch up! 😀
  2. I went and got more 1/32" basswood yesterday. I'm back in business! Pics to come soon.
  3. It turned out widening the notches on the jig was super easy, next to shrink my keel layers. XD
  4. I finally made more sawdust! Armed with my new plans I thought for sure this time things would work out correctly. Then I started trying to assemble my parts and ran into two terrible errors on two very important thicknesses... I misremembered my keel layers as being 1/16". They're 1/32". I don't have any 1/32" basswood long/wide enough to make some of the pieces. I'm either going to need to buy some sheets of 1/32" basswood, or I'm going to need to redraw them at 1/16" thickness. I also drew all my jig parts for 1/8" plywood, but my plywood is 1/4". This means no
  5. I just did the math, I was wrong. The land on the original ship was 40mm, so at 1:25 that's 1.6mm.
  6. On my model, the land is about 1mm also, so I think that should work. Mine is a scale approximation of the lines from Saga Oseberg so I think it's pretty close.
  7. Hi @kentyler, It's been a long time since we last talked! I'm glad to see you're still working miracles in paper, and will follow this thread with great interest. Did you by chance keep photos of your gunboat Philadelphia? I found this thread by searching for that one while trying to help a friend with a paper ship modeling project. Anyway, I hope you are well, and keep up the excellent work!
  8. Thanks @James H, I'll give that a shot!
  9. Hi all! I'm sure this has been asked before, but the search feature isn't giving me anything useful. Do the old forums exist in any kind of archived way? I was brainstorming with a friend about ways to solve a problem they're having on their current build and remembered a couple build logs from the old forum that I'd like to link them, but can't find any way to find them. Are they just gone forever? Thanks, Kris
  10. Hi @AnobiumPunctatum, Yes, I’m still planning on building up the keel out of layers. My woodworking skills are insufficient to craft angled scarfs and the T shaped wings of the keel by hand, so I’ll build them up one layer at a time and sand them down. I haven't honestly given much thought to the decorations. They are far beyond my skill level and I'm not sure how I would go about them. I'll give it my best effort, but may very well leave them out for this project. It's more important to me that this boat floats than that it be an exact replica.
  11. It's the end of the road for CAD work. I'll be losing access to Rhino soon, so here's the final CAD screenshot. Everything else will be photos of wood from here on out. This is the completed jig design. I'm not sure if all of it is necessary, and may not end up building it this way, but it would support both the keel and the cutout. I've also made the cutout opening wider in this version than my last screenshot. The jig height is set up so that the cutout is exactly halfway up the keel and it can be flipped over with zero change in geometry. The
  12. I've completed redrawing the layers of the keel and stems with the new dimensions. Now to arrange all the parts for printing on card and cutting out.
  13. Almost done designing the new jig... Bulkheads: False Keel: Assembled with keel in place: First five strakes: After the first five strakes are installed I will be removing the bulkheads/false keel assembly and turning it upright. Next steps will be: 1. Design the uprights that hold the keel in place 2. Design the horizontal cutout with notches for the bulkheads 3. Design the strips of wood to go on the baseboard to hold the keel in place when upright 4. Slice the keel into cross
  14. New keel complete and ready for cutting into layers! I finally managed to get a perfect transition from T to rabbets: The trick was to toss out the cross sections from the Saga Oseberg book entirely and cut them from the keel using the inner face of the garboard strake to define the shape. It's still nearly identical to the version in the book, but much easier to model. Here's the completed keel altogether: There are no rabbets cut on the stems because they had none on them in building Saga Oseberg until each stra
  15. I just read the chapter on how the planks were made in the Saga Oseberg book. Mr Finderup pretty thoroughly lays the debate to rest on the positioning and dimensions of the frames and the plank clamps. 1. There is no systematic pattern to where the plank clamps are located, except that they line up perfectly with the frames. Some are riveted on. 2. The frames are neither perpendicular to the keel nor the centerline. Mr Finderup theorizes this is because it is very difficult to find trees that are exactly symmetrical with branches at exactly the correct angles.
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