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About thibaultron

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  • Birthday 04/11/1955

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  • Location
    Warrenville, SC
  • Interests
    Ship, plane, and train modeling, history, science.

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  1. Not ship related, but I did buy this locomotive for my HO layout. It will be a port scene, so maybe it is ship related. 🙂 It is a Santa Fe 2-10-2 brass locomotive. The Santa Fe developed the 2-10-2 locos for helper service, and this is one of the early ones. It has an interesting history. The SF took two different classes of 2-10-2s and created a 2-10-10-2 locomotive, which was a failure. It could only steam at 10 to 15 MPHs, due to a poor boiler design. The SF scraped the locos, but took one of the frames from each of the larger locos and turned them back into 2-10-2s. This loco is a model of one of these rebuilt locomotives. the distinctive "Whale Tail" tender was used on the larger locos, and shifted to these rebuilt ones. The brass model is the only one that was made that represents this class. I've been trying to get one of these models for several years, but they were quite expensive. I found this one at a great price, right when I had a few extra dollars, so I jumped on it! It was cheaper as it has the original 60s/70s vintage open frame motor. These are really poor motors and completely incompatible with the new DCC (Digital Command and Control) systems now in use. I'm going to remotor it with a new "Can" type motor, which are both better at slow speed and more powerful, which is the modern standard. I may end up replacing the gear drive also, a more involved task, and one I’ve never done before. The old drives can be quite noisy, compared to the new replacement gear drives available. I’ll need to buy some additional tools for that though. I'm also going to have to learn how to repaint brass locos, I have this one and 3 others to repaint.
  2. Part 005 I stopped by Lowes today and bought some nylon washers, for the saw. I bought #10 washers for the blade drive assembly, and ¼” washers to fix the blade angle/lift mechanism. The #10s will replace the Mylar washers I installed earlier. I have a better feeling about their durability. The blade tilt/lift assembly was loose and allowed the mechanism to flop around a bit. Maybe not a problem, but I don’t want it to change angle, even slightly, while I’m cutting. The shaft that raises and lowers the blade, runs through the center of the block that adjusts the blade angle, there is a gap between this shaft and the block that allows the assembly to flop a little. I slit one side of two of the ¼ inch washers and inserted them into the gap (yes it was “fun”). This tightened up the assembly quite well. By the way the copper wire you see, is suppose to be the spring that holds the shaft into position. Being copper it does not hold very well! I’ll make a new one out of some brass or steel wire. There is still enough movement that I think I’ll add a second adjustment point at the back. Nothing fancy, just a curved slot with a screw I can tighten when I get the blade at the angle I want. In anticipation of this I installed the angled blade cover on the inside of the assembly, rather than at the back, like it came from the factory. I’ll grind the ends of the screws off, when I build the back.
  3. Part 004 A quick review of the Boesheild products I used in the last installment. The Rust and Stain remover and the blade cleaner, both worked well. The protectant did not work as well as I had hoped. The metal stayed “wet” and after several days I had to wipe the parts off to get them to dry. I think that there is a wax coating on them, only time will tell. I ordered some accessories from Radical RC for the saw. https://www.radicalrc.com/category/Table-Saw-Dremel-Accessories-492 Here are shots of the parts. I’ll describe them as I go. These are laser cut slides for the miter slots. I’m going to use them to make a sliding table for the saw. These are support disks for use when you are using thinner blades than those the saw was designed for. These blades are typically the modern high tooth count ones such as 100 or 200 tooth blades. If I’m using the 100 tooth original Dremel 8004 blades, these are not needed. There are two disks in the package, one is placed on each side of the thinner blade. They both add stiffness to the thin blade and bulk out the total thickness so the factory nut can clamp the assembly. Without the support disks, the blade alone would be too thin for the nut to clamp the blade. This is a nut that is machined so that 5/8” arbor blades can be used on the saw, which is designed with a ½” shaft. This allows me a wider selection of blades to be used in the future. The last part I bought is an alignment jig for setting up the saw. Once built, it allows quick setup of the blade mechanism. The jig holds the blade vertical, and square to the miter slots. You loosen the blade assembly hinge bolts and clamp the blade in the jig. You can then tighten them, and the blade will be parallel to the miter slots. You then can move the blade tilt marking plate so that it falls at the zero degree mark. The jig also holds the fence in position, so that you can tighten the bolts that hold the fence body to the fence clamp, insuring that it is also parallel to the blade. Here is a picture from the catalog. Here is the package and the wood parts it contains. There are also two screws and washers for installing the clamp piece (the smallest wood piece). You are to assemble the parts on the saw table, and use a square to align the body pieces, then wick thin superglue into the joints. These photos shows the parts assembled on the table, with a machinist square clamped on to hold them square. I wish I’d had another long clamp for the other joint area, but I was able to hold the pieces with my hand. I carefully wicked in the glue one joint at a time, and let it set before moving on. I even managed not to glue the jig to the table! If I had a smaller square I would have clamped it inside the assembly rather than how I had to clamp the larger one. Once the last joint was set, I removed the jig, and wicked in more glue along the lengths of the joints. Here are a couple shots of the finished jig. I still have to install the clamp. I could not locate my Allen wrenches for the cap head clamp screws, yesterday. I’ll find them the next time I get to the shop. Next month I’ll buy a couple of the blank 3D printed saw blade inserts, and their aftermarket miter gauge. I also drew up a insert blank on my CAD program, so that I can design my own future inserts.
  4. Use a modeling putty, not bondo! The bondo is much harder than the wood and would be difficult to sand without cutting into the wood. When you go to paint the model, seal it with shellac or varnish, before painting, if you will be using acrylic paints. Do a search in the forum, there was a thread a little while back , on the various methods of sealing recommended.
  5. Hi, I received an email from you today but I cannot link and get a message stating:


    Sorry, there is a problem

    You do not have permission to view this content.

    Error code: 2F173/K


    Please let me know what the message was on my recent post for a free pdf booket or how I may view your comment.

  6. I found the book both fasinating and helpful.
  7. In model railroading, you can find a prototype for just about anything. One of the hard and fast rules, though, is never put a window in a chimney. However, when I lived in Pittsburgh, there was a house with just such a window in the middle of the chimney! A couple of years ago I found the house on Google Maps, and the street view shows that the chimney and window are still in place!
  8. Chesapeake workboats had painted decks, so nails would not show. While the Sharpie is not specifically of Chesapeake origin, it would probably been treated the same for a similar use.
  9. I don't know, possibly! My sister has warned me, however, that he will grow into those ears!
  10. As I've said before, I do my modeling in a, mostly, cat free area. However, I do my writing for the build logs in the house, and have the "help" of the cats in the writing of them! Here is the newest helper. He has a special fondness for helping me type, by running back and forth across the keys, or chasing my fingers as I type!
  11. Part 003 I received the Boesheild rust converter/protector/blade cleaning kit recommended in the site I talked about earlier, and worked on cleaning up the sheet metal parts of the saw. The protectant and the resin cleaners are both recommended for wood working tools and are stated not to effect the finishing of the wood. Here are three shots of the sheet metal assembly, before I treated it. In the first shot I had already tested the rust converter on the inside of the center area. I disassembled the main and end pieces, so I could get to the area between them. I started with the smaller piece, spraying the converter on and using a green kitchen scrubby to work the solution into the pits, and loosen the flakes of rust. I then repeated the process for the rest of the assembly. The write-up I mentioned said to use a brass brush, but I could not find mine. Looking at the photos, the scrubby did not get down into all the pits, so I would recommend using the brush. In the last picture, you can see that the converter also darkened the galvanizing slightly. After rinsing the parts with water, I sprayed on the protectant. It seems to be similar to WD-40 in application. I set the parts to dry, as in the instructions on the can, and will check them out tomorrow.
  12. PART 14 A quick update. I sanded the faceplate to expose the original plastic color of the part, and it worked. I wish now that I had painted it with a lighter color, to make the contrast better, but you can clearly read the name. Here is a shot of the nameplate. I only had 320 grit sandpaper available, so you can see some scratches in the close-up, but not from viewing distance. I touched up the areas around the edges that also caught the sanding, and will go with this look.

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