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  1. I am pretty sure I will move to the Amati clamp. I am trying to keep my investment to the minimum for now. $85 for the clamp is just not on the top of the budget yet, but it will get there. I went through the Ship Modeling tools on Micro Mark, and settled on the sanding tool, and I have added chisels, diamond files, and sanding supplies. The Admiral will accept things pretty openly, but I know the boundaries. 😉
  2. Construction Question: Once that I added the lintels, it became noticeable that the bulkhead stanchions, first 3 at the bow, and last 3 at the stern extend above the top of the stanchions. I have a couple that do not extend past the top of the lintels. I looked through the instruction manual and pics and it doesn’t show if they are used even after the cap rail is added. Is there any issue with one or two not being longer?
  3. Another Problem Solved: Temporarily As I began sanding the gunport sills, it became evident that the hull, while solidly clamped at the keel, is very wobbly due to lack of support. I needed to clamp down the upper hull so that sanding was done on a solid surface. You can see the bow clamped in the picture... a small C clamp attached to the bulkhead former and tightened, then a squeeze grip bar clamp is placed under the rotating top. On the stern, the base clamp was too far from the edge to reach, so I attached the C clamp and ran heavy string through, and a pop-sickle stick was
  4. Honestly, I haven’t used a plane in years don’t plane balsa much. 🙂 I have regular size that I have had for over 30 years and can’t remember the last time I took it out of its cloth protector. I will look at them though.
  5. Thanks to Justin, Even though I used a wide angle lens for the photo, I agreed with Justin that something was off in the gun sills (starboard). They just didn't look like a smooth transition between ports. So I went back and researched them, found a few that were off, and fixed them by removing the original sill and replacing them. Not too many, 4 or 5, and not very much. However, when you multiplied the small errors across the hull, they created other issues. Here are the results of repair/replacement with the wide angle lens, and the top sills in place, it is much smoother. I mig
  6. Still, I still have the opportunity to recheck it again. I do think that some sills are angled especially near the stern and bow. If I understand it correctly, it is because the carronades run parallel to the deck. This means they are not level forward/aft, only port to starboard because of the angle of the deck. However, I will check it all now rather than later. I think I am going to try and level a couple of the sills somehow. On one, I think sanding will work. On another, I might add a shim across the top and sand clean. I don’t think that I need to remove them. I have
  7. I know what you say about the squirrely. Sills. I see it, but when I measure it, they are right on the laser marks, and level in side to out. Add to that, my eyesight using +1 readers or my jewelers visor, I am not sure what is needed. Even the initial plank that I put up temporarily was right on the mark. I am using a wide angle lens that may be adding to it.
  8. The Sanding Phase: ...or phases... 😄 After sanding the gunport sills on the starboard, it became obvious that I needed more than just one or two sanding sticks. So I ordered paint stirring sticks, emory board sanding stick types, and Dremel barrel sanding bits. I am still looking for Dremel sanding disks for the hard to get places, but I have a pretty good start. I have yet to sand the deck side of the sills, but that will be when I get both sills and tops in place. Starting on the gunport tops now.. 15/32" opening.
  9. You would think that I would be used to it with my other hobby. However, I am allergic to balsa dust....go figure. 😁
  10. Thanks guys, I was hoping for a super secret way of doing the deck side sanding. 😁 Since I have looked at Walrus’s log, I will look at yours Overworked. Both sound pretty much what I thought it would be. I think I will be building some new sanding sticks. Update: Just looked through your log Overworked. I am off to find an engraver.... 👍
  11. Sanding Question: I have been reading about sanding the bulwark stanchions and gun port sills. I understand how I can accomplish sanding the outside using the stirring stick like I did when I was fairing the hull. However, I am not sure what the process is on the inside. Walrus, I looked through your build log, and saw that you used a Dremel, but I am wondering what you did. I did a search and am still trying to find a thread that lays it out.
  12. I decided today, that I am going to buy the Micro Mark Sanding tool since there is going to be a lot of repetitive sanding of the top and bottom gunport sills. After sanding and placing 3 of the sills in place, I find I need a tool to ensure my sanding accuracy. I have a disk/belt sander that is on a floor stand, and it works fine for big pieces and those needing a lot of sanding. I just need something more of the scale needed to sand different parts of the Syren kit. Want to avoid eating too much wood from the part I am sanding. 😄 I will continue with other items until it arr
  13. Gun Port Sills/Tops At this writing, I have finally received the Tung Oil that was on order. So I have backtracked to the lower deck placement. It has never been a major issue, but I don't like leaving a trail of unfinished steps. Right now, I am only holding off on sanding the bulwark stanchions "thinner" until later. Even if I did do them, there is more coming anyway. Since that is the case, I will combine the two sanding steps into one final one. Just makes the final one longer ... at least that is what I tell myself. 😄 I threw together a sill leveling tool that wo
  14. Yeah, I have read the instructions over the thinning of the bulwarks. After reading them, I am convinced that thinning them now would mean I would break them, just trying to finish it. So far, I am holding off as long as possible. I have had one bulkhead where the top section on both sides just fell off. I am lucky it is at the top, so I think it will be covered by the cap rail. 🙄
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