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Redshadowrider

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  1. LOL..... Before I got the discs, and the scrapers, I decided to try my hand at doing them myself. I used an awl for the grooves, and a few rippler files to smooth it, then I dipped into Tung oil and hung them up to dry. Thanks for the compliment. I do have the scrapers and the cutting discs now. It should be easier now. 🙂
  2. Between changing the carronades, the sculpty, and not joggling the planking, you sure keep me thinking. 😊. I may not go the same direction, but it does keeps me considering other ways to build. On the 3D products, like the carronades, I have had some experience with them too. I tried a 3D printed headset for one of my scale pilots in one of my planes. It was so brittle that it broke into pieces just in assembly after painting. You ship is looking great and I am wishing mine could be as clean looking. Although, I am leaving some minor clean up until later. Next step for me is the thinni
  3. Yep, Still Here: I can say without a doubt that the toughest part of this build so far is the stern and transom. Numerous small separate pieces that need cutting and shaping so they fit together. Add to that the cap rail, it is a phase that needs a lot of attention, then add the painting and it becomes a challenge. Not one that cannot be overcome, but one that can be frustrating at times. Add to this, cold weather stops and starts, keeps one from getting into the flow of the build. However, I am 99.5% ready move to the next chapter with only a small amount of clean up and
  4. Thanks Patrick. I have seen these, but was looking at your picture and the disc appears to be silver. I thought the terra-cotta colored discs would fit the Bill, but wanted to make sure. 👍
  5. Question @Overworked724 I have been trying to find a source for the .009 cutting discs shown in your log. So far it seems that I can only get them from Dedeco. I tried Amazon and they require a business account and a healthcare license. Can you tell me where you got yours?
  6. 👍 Soaked, Cooked, Bent, & Clamped: Got it done!. I soaked the strip in cold water overnight. Cooked the strip in boiling water for 5 minutes, and let set for 10. Bent it slowly around the form, and clamped it in place. I think I got it now... yay. Now according to the Admiral, I have a pot to clean in the kitchen. 😃 According to her, she doesn't like the taste of wood. hehe
  7. I have 2 RC plane building tools that I will use with the boiling water. A Covering iron, and a heat gun, which are used in attaching the shiny colored film on the frames. The covering iron does pretty much what you would think. We tack down the covering on the frame using the iron. Then using the heat gun, you shrink the covering until it tightens against the frame. It takes practice, but gives a professional look to the plane. Using these 2 tools should give me the control I need. This is a wing that I recovered recently.
  8. I plan one try with the strip in boiling water. I can then determine if the wood is easier to shape. The critical part for me is what happens when the strip goes over each top to side transition. The wood tends to crimp and leave a shape like a hose over a sharp edge. If the form allows for a smooth curve transition then I think I can be successful. I have done some final sanding on the transom and sides as well. To make the form, I traced the shape onto a narrow board from the lite ply form the part was cut from, then sanding it to the outside edge of the mark. It is almost exact.
  9. Thanks Walrus, I have been reading several blogs, and tutorials. It seems that the internal wood temperature needs to reach around 200 degrees. Hot water doesn’t get it to that temp, boiling or steaming is recommended.
  10. Ready, Soak, Snap..... I have now wasted 2 cap strips for the transom. For the third attempt, I have made a form that will provide better support during the bending process. The issue is when bending the strip onto the sides of the transom. Other than that, I did manage to cut the piece in 1/2, but the curve from top to side still doesn’t want to follow the curve. I am using hot water to soak the strip, but I am thinking, I need to get it to the boiling point. Will add pics later.
  11. LOL... This is why I am taking a break from RC scale. I spend as much time detailing out the cockpit as I did on the rest of the plane. In the red and white plane earlier in the thread, the instrument panel is a copy of a full scale plane. (Post 160) You can go down the rabbit hole really quickly when deciding how much you want to do. In one plane, I even have a scale Time magazine laying on the back seat. 😄 I am sure I will fix it. Just seeing if there is a better mousetrap on how to do it.
  12. Another Decision to Make: I have been considering my options for the transom for quite a while now. As you can see in the picture, there is a crack running across the surface. It will not be hidden by the additional piece that surrounds the gun ports and even tree nails will not hide it. I have a few options, of which, each have their pros and cons. I could go ahead and paint it black as some have on their ships, but I would prefer not to. Or, I could sand down the whole transom and replace it. I am not really supportive of this idea because it involves the gun ports and the
  13. Latest Pics: I have the transom and its cap to complete and will be ready to move on. Still, it is still pretty cold in the dry dock area. 😁 Here are my latest pictures. Warm days are ahead so a couple of small things to do in the meantime. Newbie Observation: This is not meant as a critical comment, just something I did and it worked out. I waited to add the sheer strake until I had everything done to this point. It seemed to make tree nailing, gluing, and sanding easier because it provided a better sanding and working area on the planks.
  14. Wales and Nails....... Remember the feeling when you start pulling off the masking (or similar) tape after painting? I still have a few things to fix, but nothing that is a major mistake. However, as far as the taping is concerned, no run through, or seepage along a hull planks. I will take more pictures when back in the shop. It was too cold to paint, so I brought it inside. If you look closely, you can see the tree nails in place. I still have the strakes to add, but those will will be painted, in advance. I will also add a picture of the transom, when it has a little
  15. Porcupine Pirate: Port side has been nailed and I am just waiting for the glue to dry. After this side is done, it's on to starboard, then to painting the wales and to the waterline. Newbie tips for tree nails: 1. Do not place all of your tree nails out at one time. One slip and you are watching them fly. (No, I used only little amounts at a time.😁) 2. Keep a container of water on hand and keep rinsing your tweezers (if that is what you use) to keep them clean. Over time, they can pick up glue on the tips and cause the tree nails to stick to t
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