Steve20
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Everything posted by Steve20
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Thanks Mike. I'll leave the poly until later-on then
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I have attached the stem assembly and keel to the bulkhead former and am now ready to place it on the build board. I will cover the pear with painters’ tape to protect it. Should I add a couple of coats of wipe-on poly for further protection?
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Thanks Frank, but I did not make a proper selection of wood when I started these pieces. You can see a very visible grain and there is a difference in colour that sometimes shows more in other photos. I'll be careful about this in future.
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Thanks scrubbyj and Stuntflyer. I'll stick to just dusting off then wiping on and off just as you say.
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I could use some advice here. What’s the best method of cleaning in preparation for the poly? Air blowing and wiping down with a lint free cloth doesn’t seem to remove all the dust and I’ve read on the forums of people using thinners and damp cloths. Should I be using something like this to wipe down the Pear before applying the poly? Sorry if this question is a bit basic, but I’ve not used poly before.
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Soon be ready for final sanding and the wipe on poly.
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A dry fit shows I need some more sanding.
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Stem pieces are made.
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Some Pear strips: I’ve three boxes of these plus the sheets and remaining billets.
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Castello cut into 16” to 23” billets each with at least two square sides.
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I’m back here after some time and am again making progress. I’ve cut the Castello and Pear into billets between 16”and 23” long, and as I’m going to use the Pear for Winchelsea, I’ve used Chucks materials lists for a take-off of the strips and sheets required and milled these in advance. Because the sycamore doesn’t work or look as good as the other wood, I’ve left this to one side for now.
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Just to close this topic I’d like to add the following: Thanks to No Idea for the (UK based) Tuff Saws recommendation, I now have a good selection of excellent band saw blades which I am successfully using. However, I couldn’t find suitable slitting blades for the Proxxon FET table saw and I wasted quite a bit of money on blades that were not satisfactory. Also, I found that when milling strips with the FET it was difficult to achieve consistent accuracy, therefore, I accepted UK shipping and import charges and bought a Byrnes. Jim recommended the blades I needed (they were, of course, readily available) and I’m now milling wood easily and to fine tolerances. I wish I had bought the Byrnes in the first place. I also bought a Byrnes thicknesser and this solved my thicknessing problem. Using a sanding rather than the Proxxon DH40 cutting mechanism, the Byrnes didn’t tear the Pear like the DH40 did when the when the grain wasn’t in the right direction. Although I find the DH40 good for larger billets, the Byrnes is by far the better option for me. I find the milled Castello to be excellent and the Pear is pretty good also, but I’m not happy with the Sycamore and I doubt I will ever use it. I spent a week cutting all the Castello and Pear into billets and milled a large selection of various sized planking.
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Hi Fred, I purchased the Byrnes Table Saw in March 2022 and with accessories the purchase price was $1,209. UPS shipping to the UK was $300 to give an invoice total of $1,509. Additionally, UPS invoiced me £221.52 for Import VAT and added a UPS Brokerage Charge of £11.50. I bought the Byrnes because I found the Proxxon FET to be limited in accuracy when milling wood and there are very few options for saw blades and accessories for the FET. I also bought the Byrnes Thicknesser at the same time and with a supply of abrasives, and a 6" wedge, the purchase price was $523. UPS shipping to the UK was $245 to give an invoice total of $768. Import VAT was £111.07 and UPS Brokerage Charge was again £11.50. Steve
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To avoid the thicknesser tearing the wood when it's fed against the grain, I’m marking grain direction with an elongated triangle - it's almost impossible to determine Pear grain direction when pieces become smaller. Also, with a view to milling planks later, I’m marking the Face with an ‘F’ and the Edge with an ‘S’ for Side. I don't use ‘E’ as it looks too much like an ‘F’.
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Most of the billets are 2” wide as I don’t want to stress the thicknesser, or bandsaw as I will be cutting some billets vertically. Where the face of a piece is bowed, I will cut it into smaller widths as this reduces the amount wood that must be removed to square the faces in the thicknesser.
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I found that gluing the Pine strips in three locations was sufficient and afterwards the Pine breaks away without doing much damage. Any damage that does occur is to the Pine, not the Pear.
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I measured strip placement so that I could make cuts down both sides by turning the piece 1800 for the second cut. The edges came out straight and true.
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I then used the bandsaw to cut the Pear into billets less than 3 ¼” width as this is the maximum allowed by my Proxxon thicknesser. As the Pear does not have a straight edge, I thought the easiest way to do this would be to glue (Titebond) Pine strips to the underside of the cut timber and slot the strips in to the bandsaw mitre track. I used the thicknesser to size down the Pine and make it a close fit in the mitre tracking.
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Now the way ahead is becoming clearer, I decided to cut the ½ ft3 Pear and ½ ft3 Sycamore into billets. I used a chop saw for this and cut the 4 pieces into 12 sections of varying lengths: Pear 2x20”2x16” & 2x13”, Sycamore 3x16” & 3x14”. While I was about it I cut half the 1 ½ ft3 Castillo Boxwood into smaller billets as well.
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