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Matrim

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About Matrim

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  • Birthday 05/14/1971

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    Leicestershire, England

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  1. As an aside I have used a bit of wood from the piece used to hold the laser cut pieces. It is a useful thickness, already has an excellent 'curve' so just needed a slot for the wheel house and some shaping underneath to fit the very slight inverted U (or V) of of that area and does not get in the way of the lanterns.
  2. I like TurboCad. The version under a hundred quid does fine at any ship plan cad work.
  3. Had a look at mine and I have (also) not added a Taffrail. It's not on the plans and not (as far as I can tell) referenced in the instructions. I did dig a bit deeper as I have the AOTS Bounty Book and that does show a Taffrail. I would guess that it would have to go on after the wheel house thing as that leans into it so it would need either cutting round or angling at point of contact. Looks like I will have to carve one out for myself before I start rigging the mizzen. (I also checked my other Caldercraft models and they seem to have the same issue. Anyway here are a couple of photos of the taffrail from AOTS. First up '16' is the piece in question And here is an overhead where I am guessing 41 is the taffrail.
  4. Once you have got through one completed model then I think you are quite able to up the complexity of kits undertaken. If (on the other hand) you start but don't finish one then staying at beginner (or dropping if you started higher) might be appropriate.
  5. when i built my work table I joined the planks vertically together. It made the top 'thick' but gave it a lot of strength that I think it looses by joining width ways. Here are some quick shots (you#ll have to forgive the mess as as I am obviously mid model) So front view showing size Side view to show how the table top planks join together And finally how the base structure works (this is actually similar to your approach I think) It is very heavy but will not move anywhere and if the table top gets cut up then I can always re-plane and varnish and it would still be huge...
  6. If you are completing then you are a 'successful' newbie. There will always be someone 'better' as with most things in life some people dedicate everything to specific endeavours and so will be miles ahead of everyone else. I tend to be happy if my current model improves on my last and fortunately there is a huge amount to improve.. Anyway welcome to the site!
  7. wouldn't it be better to contact the publisher?
  8. It wasn't so bad as the sherline is so good to use. You just get into an automatic mindset... Plus it really helped with the outside holes when attaching the crows feet thingys though as ever I should have gone for a larger hole as I had to widen before the thread would pass..
  9. Time for a text based update. I will try and take some photos soon as a wall of words is very 'meh' Currently on rigging and it has been a while since I have rigged. Obviously the intervening years have not improved my capability at cutting any rope attached in two or accidentally punching a rope I have not seen as I desperately attempt to attach a block to an area 20mm by 20mm. Sometimes the simplifications ship model kits have are also tripping me up. As an example I replaced most of the kits blocks with Chucks (which are lovely) but now rigging is occurring I keep finding 1mm rope stays being pushed through 3mm blocks and it is either a simplification of the original plan or requires a different block structure. In some cases I ended up replacing with the kits 5mm single because these had a single big hole in the middle which I could widen with a pin drill to take the stay. The belaying plan with the kit is also not always clear and sometimes seems directly at odds with the belaying plan of Lennarth and the Bounty book (unsurprisingly as none of those were collaborations). Things I have improved at include tying off the loose ends of rope (and I can improve this further) and using less glue Things i want to improve at include making the shrouds more competently - this time I used black thread for the shrouds (though I could have gone for black shrouds and natural ratlines) as in the past I used Caldercrafts 'use this thread then stain with Indian ink' approach. Which is all very well when you first build the model but as time passes the ink either fades or any motion in the rigging by generating movement helps remove the stain and older models are looking distinctly bare in the ink department. I have never been entirely impressed with the weird and wonderful auto-shrouding tools but have been considering some batten like wood strips which could be inserted at two or three points around the shrouds to hold them in place allowing the ratlines to be tightened... Something to consider moving on. Anyway ramble over as I get back to stays.
  10. Interesting concept though I suspect you would damage a lot of the wood taking it apart. I think you would have more success with a second model and using the first to improve skills. Or go and scratch build where you can re-make the same part ten times until you are happy.
  11. I have a nice Byrnes table saw but have not managed to find (yet) a connector that will allow my festool dust extractor (CTM) 35mmh to connect efficiently to the U.S dust port. (38mm interior hole?). So the hoover is loose and thus with a gap the air pressure is lessened so loosening the effectiveness. In the past I have used masking tape etc to try to seal it better and have also tried some uni-size adapters which have universally failed to work so far. So this is just to see if anyone knows of a decent connector I can look to purchase that will make a better join/seal..
  12. Nice thickness... I am using cotton but it is a) a little too 'fluffy' and behaves weirdly sometimes so am looking for something better and this might be it..
  13. I also bulk purchased around a hundred of these blades about fourteen years back and still have loads left. I also use needle pliers to change the blade as they are surgically sharp (for a reason!). One point for potential UK purchasers is that you may have to give a reason for buying as they wont sell to anyone. Modelling is a perfectly good reason. Anything else and the sale will probably be blocked due to knife sale legislation (which if anything has probably become stricter in recent years).
  14. The U-Boat Commanders - Knight's Cross Holders 1939-1945 Company: Pen & Sword Books Ltd Author: Jeremy Dixon Kit No: ISBN 978 1 52671 873 0 Pages: 323 Retail Price: £ 25.- ($49.95 U.S) This is a very detailed book a very specific subject which follows the biographic approach often seen in such reference books. It provides detailed career information on every U-boat commander granted the Knights Cross and on average covers two pages worth of detailed information on each. This ranges from full career details to their actual combat record and command histories. Finally it also covers (should the officer have survived the war) briefer details of post-war jobs and events. It is is not a book for a casual reader to dive into but would appeal to anyone with an interest in the German Navy, the submarine/convoy war and German Naval operations especially as the information contained within would be difficult to obtain elsewhere. It is the sort of book where you either utilise it for information on a specific officer or interest (or officers if researching a particular submarine or sinking) or read perhaps an officer a day. It does provide some fascinating insights into the men who commanded these ships and the German Navy as a whole plus shows some of the difficulty the U-Boats operated under during the second world war. Example pages

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