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Matrim

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About Matrim

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  • Birthday 05/14/1971

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Leicestershire, England

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  1. That looks like a decent choice for a first build. Good luck and have fun with it and welcome to MSW.
  2. Perfect, and thank you for the confirmation!
  3. Probably a silly question but if I attach the yards to the mast heavily angled (I have forgotten the technical term but basically at 45 degrees to the mast and not squared on) then would that have been something never done (without sails when it would obviously). The space saving would be considerable when storing/displaying and though I know as my model it does not matter and there are also far more display issues (cannons run out yet the ship is like the Marie Celeste etc etc) I dont want to do something that would never have been seen either...
  4. I quite like the idea of, one day, doing a ship with all the gun ports closed and the guns secured against movement as that is unusual (for a model) and not unusual for the ship. If seas were heavy and gun ports were low then you could easily see some ports closed to simply protect the ship. If time and crew and weather were not an issue then both sides would probably be prepared so that you would not have too suddenly arm and run out a ships side if the ship fell off unexpectedly, or someone else arrived etc etc. Several historical engagements had ports shut due to weather and several more (the Nile) had one side of the ship blocked up with various ship debris as the captain never thought a ship could move between them and the shore. So all in all whatever you want!
  5. You could Email directly for contact and he may (I say may) be able to do a pay by 'paypal send me' to cover costs so not needing a web link.
  6. I am just about to put the tops on my masts and was wondering about angles. The plans seem to show the tops (for fore and main) at right angles to the mast but the masts rake would mean that would end in the tops being at a slightly unusual angle. (The Mizzen on the plans has a rake of its own possibly due to the much larger mizzen rake) So my question is whether this is expected or if I should position to the tops to be more perpendicular to the deck..
  7. Only a tiny update as I steadily prep the masts. Mass gluing with little clamps and then using a mill to drill the holes for the rigging in the tops. To get the hole location I traced the outer angle of the top on a piece of paper then marked the holes. I then cut the outer shape with scissors laid the template on the top and pushed through with a sharp point.
  8. this is an impressive kit for card....I am surprised how realistic it is looking. (not a reference to your modelling skills!!!)
  9. Merged the two identical topics in different forums and then shifted to the correct forum..
  10. Could not see any markings... Quick visual update only as the bowsprit is now on. I think I made a minor mistake in making the footropes out of string. At that diameter wire is better as it needs tension to keep shape. Otherwise I am pleased with it. The spirtsail is at a strange angle because I am going to try and use the rigging to set its position and not pinning it. We will see if it works when the rigging goes in.
  11. Don't splurge out until you have decided whether you even enjoy the hobby (unless you have seriously deep pockets). My first kits (a Caldercraft Snake then a Caldercraft Diana - with the second not being a small kit) were built in a tiny outhouse on a 4 ft wide dressing table that just fit in the space. For those I mainly squirrelled away little dremel tools and various tweezers/knifes/files and the odd chisel. I then built the triton cross section (you can sign up here! it is free!!) and for this added a Byrnes table saw/disc sander and a scroll saw. This was pushing space in a bad way now but after an extension and a new 'executive log cabin' (shed) in the garden I increased ship building space and now have made my own work bench (8ft long and very sturdy) and have space for all my current machine tools plus have added a Byrnes thicknesser, industrial thicknesser , loads of air filters and a specialist vac for fine dust, drill press, sherline longbed lathe and sherline milling machine. Plus a lot more tweezers, spanners, etc etc. Ran out of space (again) now (which is a shame as a standing Band saw would be a lovely addition) but have enough to scratch build as long as spend a little more for pre-thinned stock. My main problem is my wife attempting to deposit garden chairs/cushions into my room so they are easy to access. Here is my cabin just after being built (the quarter at the far end is a standard garden shed)
  12. I find a blade that spins so fast you can hardly see it tends to concentrate the mind wonderfully. Using the right tool for the job (correctly) makes any tools vastly more useful. On a non hospital related angle you can use a different sized screw driver on a screw and get it screwed in but if you use the exact sized screwdriver it will go in easier with less damage to the screw head. I am aiming to use the saw more like the second example. Admittedly using a mis-sized screw driver wont cause serious injury (slipping and impaling it inside an eye ball as perhaps the only contender) so the analogy is not that good....
  13. Thanks for the responses all, plus the document is a little gold mine of info...
  14. I use a mask and a dust extractor (and have several filters running) being a bit paranoid about wood dust. I also use push sticks and am very aware of the dangers of the saw. I would like a band saw but don't have the space. On the other hand I tend to spend more on pre-planed thinner stock to avoid having anything too large to handle. That does mean that in some circumstances the table saw has to cope with more than it should, as an example I was cutting the lid off a box at the weekend and it did not like that. The 12mm sides were no problem at all but naturally when it reached the sides it had to cope with a lot more and naturally did not cope. For that specific problem I plan on making a 90 degree jig so that the saw does not have to cope with too much wood than it wants. That's not ship modelling related naturally..

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