Harvey Golden

Interesting-- I had thought she was built at St. Helens; I didn't know she was completed elsewhere. I've been to the site of the St. Helens yard many times; the yard burned in the 20s if I recall. Here's a photo postcard I picked up showing the launching of Merced, ca. 1912-13. The next photo shows the only remaining evidence-- the ways shown in the post card. Looking forward to this project! -H

I heard back from Model Expo-- they have nothing available (plans) and said the Gjöa kit is discontinued. I may DM other builders or wing it.

Thank you Vossiewulf-- I wondered if that might be the case. I will try that! Thank you Wefalck. I've seen a low-res image of the plans, and I think they will still be especially helpful. I had noticed in your photos that the upper portions weren't photographed, but then I saw in museum pics that the upper portions aren't there(!) I've noted several discrepancies between how she is set up now versus how she appeared on the voyage, e.g. two yards versus one on the voyage-- the kits seem to all have two square yards. It's a blessing she was preserved, but she is quite stripped down, and indeed cut down as you said. It all keeps the process interesting!

I need assistance. As I get down the nuts and bolts of the rigging, I'm finding the plans I'm working from are wholly inadequate (and often contradict each other); Wefalck has generously shared images of the Gjöa, which has been an incredible help for the deck fittings and much of the bow rigging-- this model would be a mere caricature without his help. Poking around, it seems the Model Shipways Plans may be what I'm looking for, but I can't find the company on-line. I see some of their plans are sold by Model-Expo, but no sign of the Gjöa there. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I'm happy to purchase a used set, if someone has them laying around. Many thanks in advance! -Harvey

Getting the bowsprit rigged. I'm using the smallest ring bolts I could find, but still had to clip them open and resize them. Also had to trim the threaded end for length-- real fun trying to screw one in with the point gone!

Thank you Paul. It looked very lovely with natural cedar, black iron bands (paper, actually), and raised rivets (glue dots) . . . was saddened to see the original was painted(!)

The ratlines are completed-- never will I forget how to do a clove hitch after all that. The process went very well-- didn't need tweezers at all, just all finger work. I think they came out mostly okay; I'm happy with them. I've also attached the name boards, also visible in the photo. The bowsprit is in place, and I threaded the anchor chain through the hawse pipe-- will hang it shortly. The crow's nest is also built and attached. Historic photos show it was painted some light color; I went with a light grey. I'm getting ready to hang the boats on the davits, and have found very little about how they were hung/cleated in quite a number of model books-- is this sort of an overlooked aspect, or am I just looking at the wrong books? Best I can find in my library is an illustration in "American Merchant Seaman's Manual" (1942). It looks correct to historic photos of the Gjøa, except it runs to a winch instead of a cleat, and the davit heads on the Gjøa have integrated double blocks.

Thank you-- I've seen several images of this being done on other models. I did make a paper spacing guide and I marked out with white ink (on the outer shrouds) where the ratlines should go, so I think I can keep things proper looking. . . we'll see. I used square knots on the outer shrouds (first and last), but I like your suggestion as it would hide the trimmed ends. Thank you as always!

Happy New Year to all! A tiny bit of progress today: My very first ratline! At least, first tied ratline, as I think I glued them on one of my older projects. I'm terrible with knots, and line, and tangles drive me insane . . . I think I'm part kitten. Nevertheless, I sought out instructions for clove hitches, and by practicing AND by drawing the knot, I think I have a handle on it. Here it is, pre-trimming: Seems to have a nice natural sag to it between the shrouds. . . hope they all turn out this nice. I'll be doing them intermittently (every fifth one), and then filling in. (I still need to lash the sheer pole on... just held on with glue at this point). Anyhow, here's the drawing as well:

The shroud lines are all in place! Sheer poles, as well. I just need to glue down the lashing ends so they aren't defying gravity. The ratlines ought to be a mind-numbing challenge. Attachments for the bobstays are also in place on the stem-- upper a simple curve, with the lower twisted for an eye. Bowsprit is permanently affixed. The back stays are in progress-- just need to attach them to the mast. I'm pleased with how things are taking shape, and am learning a lot about this rig.

Some progress, including blundering (as expected). I had to re-do the deadeye attachments on the shroud lines, because I got a little ahead of my skis when following the instructions in Peterson's "Rigging." The Gjöa's deadeyes are metal strapped to a solid thimble in the shroud-end instead of the usual way of running the shroud around the deadeye. So . . . a fix and then proceeding with the rigging... compare with the above photo showing the incorrectly-made shroud ends.

They do . . . will double check the pics. Thank you. -- They look about right, not knowing exactly how thick the original's are. They are rods and not strapping. They seem proportional to the shroud size I'm using.

After a five-month break, it's time to work on the Gjøa's rigging. First photo shows the current stage. She's 3/8"=1', so the mast is just over 36" high when on the stand. My work space is quite small, so I've moved the work to the dining rooms table. I've begun mounting the chain plates for the backstays and shrouds. Also, I've mounted the davits after modifying their ends to have double-blocks. The shrouds are coming together nicely-- just glued now, but will be tied as well.

Hello Jackson! I build models for all of the reasons! Everything from channeling fidgetiness, keeping the brain active, fighting depression, overcoming challenges, learning about history, finding technical solutions, improving skills, and that lovely final result of a hand-made trophy rewarding my ability to not mess up something too terribly. I also build full-size watercraft (I started out doing that), and was surprised that building model is every bit as satisfying as the 'real deal,' never mind the bonus of models being a bit more practical to store and maintain than full-size vessels. The full-size craft I build could be considered models, though I've been calling them "replicas" for years. While they replicate the form and joinery methods of the originals, there are enough material substitutions that "models" may be a better term. I study hunting kayaks from Northern Cultures-- the Koryak, Chukchi, Unangan, Yup'ik, Sugpiaq, Iñupiaq, Inuit, and Kalaallit. These models are built for the above reasons but with an emphasis on trying to learn the shaping methods and nuances of joinery used in the originals. Being full-sized, they are completely usable, and there is of course a lot more to learn in their use. I see a number of builders on this forum building for research purposes-- working out ancient technical methods, building conjectural interpretations of historic craft, and even just walking well-tread paths in smaller scale to better understand how things go together and reconciling it with period 2D documentation. Briefly, modeling is a great way to wrap your head around something. I look forward to reading your thesis! (Hope you've found James Roy King's "Remaking the World" . . . someone here mentioned it, and I snapped up a copy). Best, Harvey Some of my full-size "models"...:

Thank you Ras! I'd love to get down there someday and explore it by small boat someday. The history, landscape, and the odd design of the steamers really captured my imagination. All the best, Harvey

There's another on the West Coast-- the Red Oak Victory, a museum ship in Richmond, CA. https://redoakvictory.us I had though it was the last, so am glad to hear of one on the East Coast! -H

Would it be cheating to simply replace it with a paper or cloth flag? Suppose the pattern could even be printed first.

The diorama/display case is completed! I'm still not sure about the top yet-- I may use plexiglass in the end. Hard to shoot through glass, so apologies for glare and reflection. Thank you all!

Your discretion is fine with me. Not sure when I'll get around to finishing now that summer is here. The boat is finished; just not the display. I can still drop an image of the completed display into the thread after it is marked "finished," correct?

Thank you John-- that does seem to be the problem. I just used water, but will try what you suggested for next time.

I believe Oregon's state flag is the only state to have different images on each side; name/seal/date on one, and a beaver on a log on the other.

The work on the diorama/display case is going quite well! The frame is ash, while the base of the diorama is 3/4" plywood. I've used some extra scraps of 'grass' from a previous project and for water I used Woodland Scenics "Realistic Water." The coloring beneath the water is acrylic paint, made to look like the Silver Spring River (sourced from Google Earth). The background is adequate, and will be covered by a number of cypress and palmetto-- one of each shown in the photos (sorry for spotty glass-- will clean it up for final pics). I made the cypress from wire, lichens, and wool to simulate Spanish Moss; the palmettos are purchased and plastic. . . and needed many washes of many colors to get them looking more realistic. I fussed over how to barrier off a divot for the steamer's hull-- do I create a removable dam, or cut out the footprint later? Neither seemed practical for my patience or skill/knowledge level and I wasn't feeling particularly experimental. With the scale draft being slightly under 1/8 of an inch, I decided to simply set the boat on top of the water. (Sanding the hull up to the waterline was another option, but I didn't want to compromise the boat). Ripples and wake to be added will further conceal this.

Originally published 1857. Higher-res image here: https://www.eldreds.com/auction-lot/print-private-signals-of-the-whaling-vessels-c._EFE4B748D8 My wife's family's flag is on it-- one of the Howlands.

I can't tell if "Otto" is forwards or backwards.

There are drawings of a few of the boats in it, but you'll need to add a scale, baseline, etc. Definitely "buildable" drawings, though, and the author may have more available. Also, he may be the best person to ask regarding lines drawings of historic Japanese traditional vessels. H-