DocBlake
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DocBlake got a reaction from popash42 in HMS Blandford by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1/32 Scale - cross-section
Thanks, G.L.!
I was looking at the drawings of the HMS Blandford in the AOTS book. In the section represented by this build, there is a vertical scarf joint in the keel located right at the step of the main mast. It extends between frames 4 and 5. I think it would add interest to simulate that scarf joint and treenail both sides with 6 scale treenails. There are scarfs in the keelson at both ends of the model section, but since they end up as partial in this cross section, I think they are best ignored because they may look weird. I've enclosed a photo of the area in question with the scarf identified.
I simulated scarph in the keel as shown in the AOTS drawings and used 18 gauge copper wire to simulate the bolts. You can see how much the beech resembles oak. Next up is blackening the copper. I'm trying a new method... hope it works!
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DocBlake got a reaction from popash42 in HMS Blandford by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1/32 Scale - cross-section
Hi Hamilton!
The idea was to keep things simple. The keel was designed so that the aft-most frames (7, 8 and 9) sat higher on the keel than the first six. When the rabbet was cut, I just cut it to simulate a gradual rise, rather than an abrupt "step". The illusion of the rising wood was completed by sanding the frames to create the rise, and sanding the floors of the frames to accommodate the rising keelson. Hope that makes sense! Here's a section of the keel plans..
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DocBlake got a reaction from popash42 in HMS Blandford by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1/32 Scale - cross-section
All 9 finished floor assemblies sitting on the keel blank.
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DocBlake got a reaction from popash42 in HMS Blandford by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1/32 Scale - cross-section
Before actually working on the keel, I decided to build the frames, so that I could more accurately fit the frame floors to the notches on the keel. The notches would be cut out after the keel and false keel were assembled and cut to length. I'm not so sure the sequence is all that critical, because the build jig also plays a role in determining where the frames go.
I laid out the frame components (futtocks)on my beech billets, each 1/4" thick. The frames are double, so the finished frames are 1/2" thick or 16 scale inches. All the parts were then cut out on the scroll saw.
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DocBlake got a reaction from popash42 in HMS Blandford by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1/32 Scale - cross-section
Thanks for looking in, guys!
My first decision was materials. I decided to make the keel, keelson and frames out of European beech. I bought 2 big slabs of European beech on the internet. I've never had the opportunity to work with European beech so this was interesting. It looks like oak with small silver flecks in it, but is more tan with a touch of red in color. The grain is probably too pronounced for 1/64 or 1/48 scale, but is fine at 1/32 or 1/24.
The first step is making the building jig. The base is 3/4 plywood and the top is 1/4" ply. I cut the notches small so I can file them making the frames fit snugly. The keel is fixed to the buildinf jig by brass pins, which will then be used to mount the model for display. The next task is building the keel.
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DocBlake got a reaction from popash42 in HMS Blandford by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1/32 Scale - cross-section
This will be my build log for a project I've been building, on and off for some time. The cross section is of the HMS Blandford, a 20 gun Sixth Rate frigate launched in 1720 and represents a small segment of the ship at the level of the main mast. Included are the mast, the well and shot lockers, chain pump as well as elm tree pump details and weather deck details including 2 cannons. The model will be plank on frame with hull planked down to the wales. There are two decks. As I usually do, I hope to use no paint or stain (or at least as little as I can!).
The plans are based on "The 20 Gun Ship Blandford" by Peter Goodwin, one of the AOTS series. The plans were drawn by one of my cyber friends, Mike41 who posts here. He did a great job. Although there are some simplifications in the framing (no chocks or scarfs in the hull frames, for example) the plans are fairly close to the AOTS drawings. The second photo shows the cross section's location in longitudinal view.
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DocBlake got a reaction from garyshipwright in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks for your input, guys! I made a decision!
I finished planking the bulwarks except for the plank sheers. This was done in boxwood, including the black strake. The upper and lowers wales are ebony. I chose to make the center "filling wale" out of boxwood for the contrast. In the AOTS series, both HMS Blandford and Royal Yacht Caroline have this arrangement for the wales. I decided not to use hooked scarf joint on the ebony wales since they wouldn't show up well. The filling wale joints are typically butt joints but I took some license and made a couple of hook scarfs: one on each side.
I cut some holly planking and dyed it an aqua/turquoise blue. I used Transfast water soluble dye so I could glue the planks without worrying if the glue would hold. Do you guys like the look, or is it "too much" for a natural wood model? I'm not committed to anything yet. Those planks are just sitting there!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks, guys!
I put a couple of coats of poly on the display board. It really brings out the color of the cherry and the figure of the maple!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks, Pat...and everyone for the "likes"!
I added a little more to the base/launching ways to display the model. I still need some "curbs" on either side of the center timber to keep the keel centered where it should be.
Once the finish is on, the contrast between the maple, beech, cherry and swiss pear will be more dynamic.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
I'm getting ready to plank the outboard bulwarks. The jig will get in the way of the wales, so it's time to build a display stand. I have some curly bird's eye maple that I'm using for the base. The section will be cradled in scaffolding/bracing much as I did for my Blandford project. The wood is cherry.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
I've been busy! I just finished painting the inside of our house, including our family room, kitchen, foyer, 2 bathrooms and two bedrooms. I also removed carpeting and underlayment in two bedrooms to prep for installing hardwood floors...which is my next project! I have sneaked in a little modeling time, though.
Here is some preliminary work on the cannons. I first built an assembly jig so everything goes together nicely and the same. The metal work will come next and then the trucks. You can see some shallow "gouges" in the carriage brackets where the eyebolts fit. This is so the eyebolts can be "buried" in the brackets as they were in real life, to prevent them from turning.
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DocBlake got a reaction from garyshipwright in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:
I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!
Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
I started work on the hatch. The coamings are 7/32" thick bloodwood and jointed by half laps at the four corners. The coamings are also beveled inward by 10 degrees on all four sides. How to do the beveling easily and accurately? I decided on a jig!
Basically the jig is a slice of wood, angled at 10 degrees from the horizontal. When the face of a coaming is sanded such that it is square up against the Byrnes sanders disk, you know the angle is a perfect 10 degrees. The hatch frame is attached to the jig with two sided carpet tape.
Sanding the four sides took about 20 minutes.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks, guys!
The complicated anatomy of the ends of the angled bulkheads actually makes fitting the outboard and transverse bulkheads easy. They are cut a little long at a 90 degree angle. I then "sneak up" on the final width with the Byrnes sander.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
he diagonal bulkheads are the most difficult because there are two angles on each end that need to be cut to form a point. Fortunately, the andles are 45 degrees and the "point " is a 90 degree angle! I set my Byrnes disc sander table to 45 degrees and "cut" the angles very carefully. The photos show some finished bulkheads and how they butt up against each other. The rabbets are to accommodate the side covers, which are part of the mortar pit housing. I'm not sure if I'll include this!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks, guys!
I started work on framing in the mortar pit by milling the bulkhead blanks out of boxwood. There are eight bulkheads, each 3/16" thick. The fore and aft bulkheads have no rabbet along the top edge, while the port and starboard bulkheads and the diagonal bulkheads do. The rabbet on the diagonals is 5/64" X 5/64". The rabbet on the port/starboard bulkheads is 5/64" X 1/8". The diagonals have complex geometry, which I'll do using the disc sander. I don't think this kind of precision could be reasonably expected except by using Byrnes tools!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
I'm back at it! I just finished planking the inboard bulwark ceiling planks, then cut the gun ports and the sweep ports. There are very subtle treenails in place. I used birch toothpicks and they blended in well with the bloodwood planking.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Arturek in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
The shell room has 6 racks for the mortar shells. Each rack has 3 pillars and 4 shelves. The pillars sit on the lower support beams directly over the floor riders. The shells are 3/8" wooden balls that I dyed black.
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DocBlake got a reaction from KentM in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks for your input, guys! I made a decision!
I finished planking the bulwarks except for the plank sheers. This was done in boxwood, including the black strake. The upper and lowers wales are ebony. I chose to make the center "filling wale" out of boxwood for the contrast. In the AOTS series, both HMS Blandford and Royal Yacht Caroline have this arrangement for the wales. I decided not to use hooked scarf joint on the ebony wales since they wouldn't show up well. The filling wale joints are typically butt joints but I took some license and made a couple of hook scarfs: one on each side.
I cut some holly planking and dyed it an aqua/turquoise blue. I used Transfast water soluble dye so I could glue the planks without worrying if the glue would hold. Do you guys like the look, or is it "too much" for a natural wood model? I'm not committed to anything yet. Those planks are just sitting there!
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DocBlake got a reaction from albert in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks for your input, guys! I made a decision!
I finished planking the bulwarks except for the plank sheers. This was done in boxwood, including the black strake. The upper and lowers wales are ebony. I chose to make the center "filling wale" out of boxwood for the contrast. In the AOTS series, both HMS Blandford and Royal Yacht Caroline have this arrangement for the wales. I decided not to use hooked scarf joint on the ebony wales since they wouldn't show up well. The filling wale joints are typically butt joints but I took some license and made a couple of hook scarfs: one on each side.
I cut some holly planking and dyed it an aqua/turquoise blue. I used Transfast water soluble dye so I could glue the planks without worrying if the glue would hold. Do you guys like the look, or is it "too much" for a natural wood model? I'm not committed to anything yet. Those planks are just sitting there!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks for your input, guys! I made a decision!
I finished planking the bulwarks except for the plank sheers. This was done in boxwood, including the black strake. The upper and lowers wales are ebony. I chose to make the center "filling wale" out of boxwood for the contrast. In the AOTS series, both HMS Blandford and Royal Yacht Caroline have this arrangement for the wales. I decided not to use hooked scarf joint on the ebony wales since they wouldn't show up well. The filling wale joints are typically butt joints but I took some license and made a couple of hook scarfs: one on each side.
I cut some holly planking and dyed it an aqua/turquoise blue. I used Transfast water soluble dye so I could glue the planks without worrying if the glue would hold. Do you guys like the look, or is it "too much" for a natural wood model? I'm not committed to anything yet. Those planks are just sitting there!
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DocBlake got a reaction from popash42 in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
I've got a dilemma. The outboard planking on Granado will be boxwood, and the 3 strakes of the wales will be ebony. The question is, how do I handle the "black strake", directly above the wale. The name suggests it should be ebony also, but the AOTS cover illustration clearly shows it to be ochre colored. Modelers have gone both ways. What do you all think? Ebony or boxwood for the "black strake"?
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DocBlake got a reaction from popash42 in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks, guys!
I put a couple of coats of poly on the display board. It really brings out the color of the cherry and the figure of the maple!
-
DocBlake got a reaction from popash42 in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
Thanks, Pat...and everyone for the "likes"!
I added a little more to the base/launching ways to display the model. I still need some "curbs" on either side of the center timber to keep the keel centered where it should be.
Once the finish is on, the contrast between the maple, beech, cherry and swiss pear will be more dynamic.
-
DocBlake got a reaction from popash42 in Granado 1742 by DocBlake - FINISHED - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross-Section
I've been busy! I just finished painting the inside of our house, including our family room, kitchen, foyer, 2 bathrooms and two bedrooms. I also removed carpeting and underlayment in two bedrooms to prep for installing hardwood floors...which is my next project! I have sneaked in a little modeling time, though.
Here is some preliminary work on the cannons. I first built an assembly jig so everything goes together nicely and the same. The metal work will come next and then the trucks. You can see some shallow "gouges" in the carriage brackets where the eyebolts fit. This is so the eyebolts can be "buried" in the brackets as they were in real life, to prevent them from turning.
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