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    Pewaukee, WI, USA
  • Interests
    Building period furniture, aviation, sailing, model ship building.

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  1. I finished the building jig. The last photo shows the keel blank with the scarf cut into the forward end held in place by the wooden "clamps". Once the keel is placed in the jig, I'll hold it down to the base by drilling some holes on either side of the keel at a couple of locations and fixing it in place with a couple of nylon cable ties.
  2. Thanks, guys! Rather that hand cut the building jig, My good friend Mike agreed to laser cut it for me out of some very nice 3/8" Baltic Birch plywood. The base of the jig has a pair of "clamps" that hold the keel straight. The stem and the sternpost fit into notches in the top , as do the arms of the frames. The principle is the same as my Blandford build jig. Thanks, Mike!!
  3. Finally completed all the frames. They are not sanded, beveled nor treenailed. There are over 300 parts making up the futtocks of the frames: 23 full frames, and 11 pair of half-frames and cant frames. All of boxwood. I wore out a dozen scroll saw blades cutting through that stuff. Fortunately the blades are cheap: about $0.50 a piece. The last photo shows a closeup of one of the full frames. I didn't use the Hahn method of cutting them out. All frames were constructed using individual futtocks assembled over a drawing of the frames. It IS possible to get tight joints between the individual timbers using that method.
  4. That is obviously true, but I’ve come up with a dozen situations where it is much easier and accurate to have the “slow” sanding surface at the periphery of the disk and not the center.
  5. HMS Blandford (1720) did not have permanent pin rails. They were lashed to mizzen shrouds and mizzenmast as David pointed out.
  6. Lots going on, so I'm not posting as often. I started building the frames. They are "sistered" and made of boxwood. The little tabs on the floors of the frames help to strengthen the frame and prevent breakage while handling, finishing and installing them. They are trimmed off after all the frames are installed so the frames flow smoothly into the rabbet, This is a Bob Hunt idea, and it works very well. The frames have not yet been sanded, bevel or finished in any way. Just glued together after cutting from their billets.
  7. These plans were originally drawn in 1:48 scale, and we enlarged them to 1:32. The result was some thickening of the part outlines, and the problem will be "tolerance creep" unless I'm very careful. I've already had to remake the stern post! Oh well, these are the challenges of scratch building.
  8. Getting ready to make a little more sawdust. Templates for various parts rubber cemented to their boxwood blanks. Shown are the rudder, wing transom, 2 part rising wood, 4 part keelson, stem and stern deadwood and the sternpost. I'm trying to align edges where straightness is critical to the straight edge of the blanks.
  9. I question making the stem out of a single timber. Both Harold Hahn and Bob Hunt left the stem as a single timber. It's a large piece of wood with a pretty serious curve in it. I doubt that a large enough tree could be found with the natural curve in it to serve as the stem. If the stem were cut from a single straight timber , that piece of wood would have to be almost 6 feet wide! I doubt there were many trees that were more than 6 feet in diameter while being suitable for shipbuilding! My conclusion is that the stem would almost certainly be scarfed together. Here is a proposed scarf for the stem. I have no real plans that show this...it just makes sense to me. Thoughts?
  10. Thanks for looking in, guys! I started working on the model by milling my wood. The frames are double frames, sistered together. each half-thickness frame is 9/64" thick, with a finished frame thickness of 9/32". almost all the billets are 9/64" thick. The stem and keel are supposed to be constructed of two thicknesses also, but I simply made them 9/32". The photos show some of the milled wood, my keel blank with the false keel attached , the stem and the template for the keel scarf rubber cemented to the keel blank.
  11. This will be my build log for a scratch-built, 1:32 scale, plank-on-frame, admiralty style model of "Hannah", purportedly the first armed ship recruited into Washington's navy during the Revolutionary War. I've wanted to do a full hull scratch build at this larger scale, but what ship? The choice was not completely arbitrary. Even a 5th or 6th rate frigate in the Royal Navy would be 4-1/2 feet long at this scale, not including the bowsprit! Obviously I had to look elsewhere. I settled on Hannah because it is significantly smaller (this model will be 24" long with a 6" beam) and there was a lot of documentation out there regarding the model. I have Hahn's book as well as his plans for "Hannah" to use as a reference. The actual building plans were drawn by Bob Hunt, based on Hahn's original drawings, and were done in 1:48 scale. I had them resized to 1:32. The drawings show each individual futtock and include detailed drawings of each frame, including bevel lines. The model will be built in an upright jig, as was my 1;32 Armed Virginia Sloop and my 1:32 "Blandford" cross section. The frames, stem, keel and stern will be boxwood. I'll decide on other woods as I move along with the build. Thanks for looking in! Here are some shots of the plans and Bob Hunt's "Hannah" model along with a link to his website. https://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/

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