DocBlake
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Granado 1742 by DocBlake - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross Section
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Granado 1742 by DocBlake - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross Section
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Granado 1742 by DocBlake - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross Section
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Thanks, Jean-Paul, and thanks to all for the "likes"! A friend and collaborator, Joseph, is doing 3-D drawings of the plans and we are making changes to simplify construction for those less experienced. This includes eliminating the rise in the frames moving aft as well as eliminating the narrowing of the hull moving aft. He also drew up the deck such that all the beams, carlings, ledges and lodging knees were the same thickness (pictured). I decided to use stopped dadoes on the beams to seat the carlings. Thus the carlings would be thinner than the beams. I'll keep the ledges and -
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Charles W. Morgan by Landlubber Mike - Model Shipways - New Bedford Whaling Bark - Scale 1:64
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Charles W. Morgan by Landlubber Mike - Model Shipways - New Bedford Whaling Bark - Scale 1:64
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popeye the sailor reacted to a post in a topic:
Charles W. Morgan by Landlubber Mike - Model Shipways - New Bedford Whaling Bark - Scale 1:64
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popeye the sailor reacted to a post in a topic:
Charles W. Morgan by Landlubber Mike - Model Shipways - New Bedford Whaling Bark - Scale 1:64
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Granado 1742 by DocBlake - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross Section
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Granado 1742 by DocBlake - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross Section
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Granado 1742 by DocBlake - 1:32 Scale - Bomb Vessel Cross Section
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I started work on the upper deck by rubber cementing the deck beam profile templates to a sheet of 3/8" swiss pear. I used the scroll saw to cut out the beams, and sanded them smooth. Each beam is 12 scale inches square in profile! I cut the beams slightly long and used the disk sander to sneak up on the final width. I'd like them to fit with no side- to-side play, but the fact was that due to the tumblehome of the top timbers, I had to make the final beam length a little short so they could fit into their notches on the clamps. Any side-to-side play will be taken care of by using removabl
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I cut and notched the 4 planks that make up the upper deck clamps. After bending them to the slight aft narrowing they were glued in place and treenails added. Then I cut out the eight mortar pit support knees and pinned and glued them in place.
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Thanks! I'm working on cutting the mortises into the upper deck clamp today. Meanwhile, I laid out and installed the treenails in the mortar pit deck. I used a #61 bit and birch toothpicks!
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I built the secondary mortar pit deck off the model by edge gluing the planking together. I then located where the center of the circular cutout would be and drilled a hole. I transferred this location to the primary deck by putting the deck back in place and marking the primary deck with a nail through the hole. I whipped up a little jig to hold the secondary deck in place while I drilled out the circular recess with a Forstner bit. The secondary deck was glued in place.
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Thanks, guys! After gluing the mortar pit support beams in place I began work on the mortar pit itself. The first parts to make were the boundary timbers that define the outboard boundary of the pit deck. These are swiss pear timbers with a rabbet ploughed into them to accept the secondary planking layer. There a two layers of planking. The primary or lower layer is thick: about 9 scale inches. The secondary layer, which lays on top, is thinner and has a recess cut in it for the rotating platform the mortar sits on. Holly can get mold growth which can stain it a bluish gr
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Thanks, Jean-Paul! The next step is to cut out the mortar pit beams. These support the pit deck itself, and in turn, rest on the upper support beams of the shell room. There are notches (really shallow dadoes) for both on each beam. I milled up some 3/8" thick swiss pear and glued the beam templates to the wood with rubber cement. They were then cut out using the scroll saw. The mortar pit boundary timbers fit in the dadoes on the upper surface of each beam (red arrows). It's important that these line up exactly so I cut the beams a little long and snuck up on the final l
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Work on the shell room continues. I made the upper support beams out of boxwood and the blocking timbers between them of pear. They're glued into place, but not poly'ed yet. Once that's done, I will individually fit each of the 6 mortar pit beams into their notches on the clamps.
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Thanks, Grant! I glued the six shell racks to the lower support beams. The placement needs to be precise because two more layers of structure sit on top of the shell racks before the mortar pit floor. The plans call for the racks to be pinned in place. I thought this would be too difficult to do precisely so I used a couple of home made jigs to align the shell racks while the epoxy I used dried. They're not going anywhere!
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Very nice model. Well done!
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The shell room has 6 racks for the mortar shells. Each rack has 3 pillars and 4 shelves. The pillars sit on the lower support beams directly over the floor riders. The shells are 3/8" wooden balls that I dyed black.
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Thanks, Jean-Paul! The shell room is made up of 3 rows of 6 pillars which support 24 shelves. Each shelf has a hollow into which the mortar shells fit. The pillars are cut from square swiss pear stock. I used my Byrnes saw with the sliding table to cut the pillars and the notches for the shelves. The sliding table is deadly accurate, and each pillar is EXACTLY as long as as the next, with the shelf slots perfectly aligned. The tool is amazing! The shelves were cut from swiss pear also. To form the depressions that hold the shells, I used a 3/8" twist drill on my drill pr
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I finished the decking (holly) and glued it into place. One coat of poly applied.
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Thanks for the "likes", guys! I began construction of the shell room with the lower support beams. I cut them to overhang the floor riders by 3/32" on each end and then chamfered both ends of each for visual interest. These were glued in place. Next I cut out two filler pieces to fit between the support beams. These are 3/32" thinner than the thickness of the support beams so when the decking is installed, there will be a flush, flat surface. Next is to trim and finish the filler pieces.
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