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DocBlake

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About DocBlake

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pewaukee, WI, USA
  • Interests
    Building period furniture, aviation, sailing, model ship building.

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  1. Thanks, guys! The complicated anatomy of the ends of the angled bulkheads actually makes fitting the outboard and transverse bulkheads easy. They are cut a little long at a 90 degree angle. I then "sneak up" on the final width with the Byrnes sander.
  2. Thanks, guys! Pat: I'm eyeballing the cuts, but I have a plan view rubber cemented to the bottom of each blank to guide me! I prepared the diagonal bulkheads for installation. The backs of the 4 bulkheads are supported by diagonal carling which are inset into mortises in the deck beams and trimmer beams. I decided to make life simple and simply butt the diagonal carlings in place. I carefully cut them to size, then glued them to the back of the diagonal bulkheads. The bulkheads are built with two boards. I simulated this by scoring a line and marking it with a pencil. Once the glue dried, these were epoxied in place.
  3. he diagonal bulkheads are the most difficult because there are two angles on each end that need to be cut to form a point. Fortunately, the andles are 45 degrees and the "point " is a 90 degree angle! I set my Byrnes disc sander table to 45 degrees and "cut" the angles very carefully. The photos show some finished bulkheads and how they butt up against each other. The rabbets are to accommodate the side covers, which are part of the mortar pit housing. I'm not sure if I'll include this!
  4. Thanks, guys! I started work on framing in the mortar pit by milling the bulkhead blanks out of boxwood. There are eight bulkheads, each 3/16" thick. The fore and aft bulkheads have no rabbet along the top edge, while the port and starboard bulkheads and the diagonal bulkheads do. The rabbet on the diagonals is 5/64" X 5/64". The rabbet on the port/starboard bulkheads is 5/64" X 1/8". The diagonals have complex geometry, which I'll do using the disc sander. I don't think this kind of precision could be reasonably expected except by using Byrnes tools!
  5. I'm back at it! I just finished planking the inboard bulwark ceiling planks, then cut the gun ports and the sweep ports. There are very subtle treenails in place. I used birch toothpicks and they blended in well with the bloodwood planking.
  6. Thanks, guys! Next I installed the spirketing planks. These are the two lowest planks of inboard bulwark planking. They are thicker than the upper inner bulwark planking and the topmost one is rounded over at it's upper edge. I did this using my Dremel mini-router table. The waterways and all inboard bulwark planking will be bloodwood.
  7. Thanks, Jean-Paul! I'm back in the shipyard but there are still tons of things to do around the house and yard. Hard to find time for everything! I cut the stock for the waterways. The two bevels (three, really) are a little tricky but they came out OK. The stock is a bit thick so soaking or using a clothing iron the bend the waterways to the narrowing beam at the aft of the model didn't work. My solution was a heat gun! I put a scrap of plywood on the bench top, then the waterway stock, then another narrow piece of stock on top of that. I clamped the "sandwich to the bech top and used another C-clamp to pull the waterway into it's curve. With it in position, I heated the waterway for one minute with mu heat gun, aiming at the spot noted by the arrow. The plank stayed curved with no spring back!
  8. I finished the deck framing. No poly on the upper surfaces yet. Next up is working with bloodwood for the hatch coaming, the waterways and bulwark planking.
  9. I cut the pillar under deck beam #2 to length. Here it is, dry fitted. I plan to pin it to the keelson and the deck beam. The piece of holly near the footwaling is just a measuring stick I used to locate the pillar on the keelson
  10. Thanks! I turned a few pillars out of swiss pear to support the upper deck beams. They rest on the keelson.
  11. I cut and fitted all the ledge for the deck as built so far. Nothing glued in place yet...all friction fit!
  12. Thanks, guys! I installed all the hanging knees, lodging knees and carlings from the aft end of the section to the forward edge of the mortar pit. I'll add the ledges to finish this part of the deck before adding the beam arms and the rest of the deck framing.
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