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DocBlake

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    Pewaukee, WI, USA
  • Interests
    Building period furniture, aviation, sailing, model ship building.

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  1. Thanks, Ken! You can get it at a hardware or big box store. Here's a link that will give you the option of 8 different diameters and more than enough for several lifetimes!: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QM8249H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 To use, choose an appropriate diameter tube and slice off the bands with a sharp X-Acto knife. Slip them on the stock in proper position and put the stock in a preheated 300 degree oven for 5-10 minutes. Done!
  2. Even though I used the kit parts as templates for my remade anchor stocks (using swiss pear), I really didn't like how they turned out. The stocks are too clunky and I didn't like the reinforcing band placement. So I made them over. Much better, I think!
  3. I finished up the anchors. The stocks are swiss pear, shaped and tapered. The anchor's themselves were supplied with the kit, and I wasn't to sure about the U-shape. Royal Navy anchors were more "V" shaped in the latter 18th century. The shape was more typical of Continental anchors, so would have been in use on a schooner like this I went with the kit anchors. The simulated metal bands on the stocks are thin slices of shrink-wrap electrical insulation. Cut to size, slip in place and heat in a 300 degree oven for 5 minutes. Done!
  4. Hey Brian! I stole the trick about the gun handle's from you! Remember?
  5. Time to get to work on the swivel guns. I can't remember where I picked up the guns that I used. The scale of this model is weird so there are no commercial swivels. I had to make my own. The barrels for the 2 pounder swivels measured about 32 scale inches long. Slightly short, but passable. My first step was to silver solder some brass rod to each gun as a handle. I the made the gun brackets from sheet brass and brass rod, and drilled holes for the trunions. Lastly, afrer blackening all the parts, I made the little balls on the ends of the handle. I build up several layers of thin CA glue until I got the size I wanted, then painted them red. Next is assembling the guns and mounting them.
  6. I finally made the conversion to stub masts and bowsprit. I save the full masts and spars and didn't glue the stub parts in place in case I change my mind. The only jobs left are to finish and mount the swivel guns, rig the cannons and rig a single anchor.
  7. When starting my "Independence" build, I felt I needed a keel clamp. Rather than buy one, I made one from stuff I had around the shop. The clamp is made with all hardwood and a plywood base. If you use simple hardware, the whole clamp will cost less than $10. With fancy star knobs, maybe $20. The clamp is solid and versatile. Plus it is fun to build. The .pdf file includes step by step instructions with photos and detailed, measured drawings. Enjoy! Doc's Keel Clamp.pdf
  8. Thanks, guys! Once I was satisfied with the steps to make my practice hawse timbers, I made the real timbers out of the boxwood blanks. I refined the fit and set them in place. You can see that the shape is complex. Take your time with this series of steps. Before I glue the hawse timbers in place, I will shape the outboard surfaces so only minimal fairing will be needed later. There is still a bit of wood to hog off of them.
  9. Thanks, Matt - that's very kind! And thank you all for the "likes".
  10. I finished gluing the 6 pair of forward cant frames in place, again using epoxy. Bob Hunt's lofting of the frames is pretty darned good so tons of fairing won't be necessary. I cut out the blanks for the hawse timbers. I made a practice pair out of pine to check the fit. There is quite a bevel and a lot of waste needs to be removed. I'l trim the inside before fairing the inside of the ship. I'll save the outside for later on.
  11. Thanks, Rusty! I'll frame it the way the plans suggest. Likely will never find out why it was drawn this way!
  12. I think you misunderstood, Rusty! I know that the riders straddle the keelson. My question is their spacing along the keelson, which also determines the location of the mortar pit beams. They are not symetrical, and they don't line up withe the frames. Here is what I mean: The photo is yours. The measurements are the spaces between the mortar pit beams for a 1:32 scale model plans. The arrows show that the beams (and therefore the riders) don't meat up with the underlying frames. Notice the far left beam? I6t straddles two frames, while the far right beam overhangs it's corresponding frame.
  13. So I finally glued all the full frames (#1 through #23) to the rising wood on the keel. The fit is snug, so no pinning or doweling will be necessary. I do want the hull to be sturdy, so I opted to use epoxy. A problem with epoxy is that once it cures, it's virtually impossible to remove any squeeze out or smears. It often makes a mess, even though the bond is very strong. I like to use Bob Smith Industries Quick Cure 5 Minute epoxy. It has a 5 minute working time and fully cures in one hour. I put a little epoxy in the notch on the frame's bottom the set the frame in place on the "saddle" notch on the rising wood. I weigh it down with machinist right angle blocks for about five minutes. At that point, the epoxy has set up enough that you can't smear it, or draw it out in stringy tendrils like pizza cheese! If you take an X-Acto knife, you can pry away any squeeze out from the wood, leaving no residual. It works well. I then replace the weights and wait till the epoxy fully cure, then move on to the next. Slow going, but this isn't a race! If you plan to use epoxy in a highly visible area, try this technique. But practice a bit first to get the timing right! Next up are the bow cant frames
  14. Great job on this build, Rusty! I've had these plans forever, and I'm just now spending some time looking at them in more detail. I've got a question, if you don't mind. In looking at how the frame riders are laid out over the keelson, I noticed that they don't sit exactly over the frames, and their spacing is not symmetrical. Therefore the same is true for the mortar pit beams. Any idea why the plans were drawn this way. Check out post 135 in this thread. Thanks!

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