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DocBlake

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pewaukee, WI, USA
  • Interests
    Building period furniture, aviation, sailing, model ship building.

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  1. I've been busy prepping the frames, filing the seating surfaces for the keel and keelson flat. I also remade the first three cant frames, which are no longer too short! I also placed the treenails. Not counting the nails that will go into the fore and aft cant frames, there are 800 treenails in the full frames alone! As you can see from the photos, the frame lofting was pretty well done on the plans, so fairing will be easier.Before I glue the frames in place I will give them all a couple of coats of poly on the for and aft surfaces, which will be hard to reach once they're glued in place. I did make one unfortunate discovery. The keelson plans show the entire keelson to be dead horizontal, but the model tells me that the keelson begins to rise at full frame #18 and continues rising until the cant frame begin at frame #24. I'm going to have to design a custom keelson for the model. This will slow things down a bit!
  2. Go to post #42 in this thread. Here is the article David refers to: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/furniture/Tryworks_Building_Guide.pdf
  3. Thanks! Check my log for wood inventory and changes I made. No stains used! The model is the 2010 edition.
  4. Thanks, everyone! This model is based on Hahn's plans, but uses an upright jig, unlike Hahn's method. As drawn, the plans leave little extra length in the top timbers to ensure that they can be trimmed to the right height. After fitting the feet of the cant frames to the deadwood, the first three frames came out dangerously close to too short. I weighed my options and decided to remake frames #32, #33, and #34, leaving the top timbers 1/4" longer than the plans.
  5. Still at it! Working on frames. I've beveled the cant frames and i'm fitting them to the fore deadwood. Only rough sanded. No bolts or poly. In fact, the futtock template drawings with the bevel lines are still cemented to the frames!
  6. I glued the rising wood to the keel and then smoothed the transition of the rabbet to the stem and stern. At the stem the rabbet changes from "V" shaped to perpendicular to the dead wood. Same at the stern. I also trimmed the keel to length.
  7. I'm getting close to finishing the keel. The rising wood comes in two pieces. After cutting the notches for the frames, I cut the rising wood to fit, making sure the notches lined up with the frame locations on the plans. The rabbet is next. At the stem, the rabbet is created by the stem and the fore deadwood. There is no rabbet aft. The planking would sit directly on the deadwood aft of the bearding line. The main rabbet along the hull is created by beveling the top edges of the keel and the bottom edges of the rising wood. When glued together, they form a nice rabbet. In the photo the rising not yet been glued in place. Once that's done, the keel is finished.
  8. Thanks for the "likes" guys! I cut the notches for the frames into the rising wood blanks using the Byrnes saw and a I-292 .030 kerf blade. They need to be cut to length. Because the plans were scaled up to 1;32 scale, the lines on the plans have some thickness to them. It's a matter of sneaking up on the final width of the notches so the frames fit snugly. Not easy to do! I have a few that will need shimming. Since I plan to epoxy the frames to the rising wood and then pin them to the keel with braass rod, that may be overkill.
  9. I finally assembled the keel and the deadwood fore and aft. I simulated a build up stern deadwood by cutting grooves into the wood and highlighting them in pencil. Next up is to bevel the top edges of the keel to form the rabbet and then glue on the rising wood.

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