DocBlake
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Emma C. Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32
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Emma C. Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32
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Emma C. Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32
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74 gun ship by Gaetan Bordeleau - 1:24
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74 gun ship by Gaetan Bordeleau - 1:24
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Emma C. Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32
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Emma C. Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32
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Emma C. Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32
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Really nice work, Yves! She is just gorgeous. -
DocBlake reacted to a post in a topic:
Emma C. Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32
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DocBlake reacted to a post in a topic:
Emma C. Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32
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DocBlake reacted to a post in a topic:
Emma C. Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32
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DocBlake reacted to a post in a topic:
Emma C. Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32
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yvesvidal reacted to a post in a topic:
Emma C. Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32
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lmagna reacted to a post in a topic:
Emma C. Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32
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Very nice work, Yves!
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Very well done! Congratulations!
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DocBlake reacted to a post in a topic:
H.M.S. Triton Cross Section by Ainars Apalais - 1:48
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There are 5 floor riders that reinforce the frames under the mortar. I made six! I used swiss pear and beech for a little contrast. The riders sit on the keelson and hug the frames and then overlap the mortar pit deck clamps. The plan shows the location of the riders on the keelson. As you can see, I’ve yet to cut the outline of the top of the riders that overlaps the clamp strakes.
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The keelson was glued in place using Weldbond. The pencil lines are the locations of the five floor riders that help support the mortar. The bolts are darkened 18 gauge brass nails.
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I cut the keelson blank a bit long and then milled the two bevels on the top surface. I then tapered the aft end to match the rise of the final four frames on the keel/hog. I then cut the keelson to length.
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Thanks! I used temporary spacers to make sure the frames sat properly on the hog or rising wood. The double frames are constructed so that half the frame sits a little deeper than the rest of the frame. The frame locks in place. It can’t move once seated. I then used epoxy the glue ar the frames in place and faired the inside of the hull. The spacers above the waterline are glued in place. The hull is strong enough to remove the transverse support of the jig top for and aft. Makes it easier to work inside!
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I installed model railroad spikes as bolts in the double frames only. Once that was done, the frames were given 3 coats of poly on their fore and aft faces. I used spacers above the waterline between frames and glued them all to the keel and hog. Each frame had a spreader bar that attached to the top timbers by those little yellow nails. No glue!
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Only the last three frames have any bevel. The photo shows how much.
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Some photos of the chocks in a finished frame before sanding. I use a variable speed Dremel on low to sand the chocks and finish with flexible sanding blocks by Norton
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With the keel completed, I turned my attention to constructing the frames. There are 17 in all – 5 double frames and 12 single frames. The are assembled using typical chock and scarf construction. Because of the style of the joints, they must fit very tightly, because there isn’t much gluing surface and part of it is end grain, so the frames could be fragile. Still. It’s possible to get pretty tight joints. The trick is to make the chocks oversize, and sand/file them to fit first into one scarf and then the mating scarf. The photos show the sequence.
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The first part to make is the keel assembly. Jeff's plans call for this to be constructed of 4 separate parts: The hog, keel, upper false keel and lower false keel. I decided to make the hog, or rising wood, part of the keel. The keel /hog assembly, and the upper false keel are European beech, the lower false keel is ebony. There are notches cut into the hog for the various frames. I was able to do this on my Byrnes saw, but it would have been far easier with a mill. You can see the notches rising at the aft end of the keel. The last task was cutting the rabbet. The keel assembly is
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Thanks all! The jig is upright, like my Blandford and POF Armed Virginia sloop. The plans for the jig top lay it out in two pieces, joined at the midline. Proper alignment is important. The first step is to use spray adhesive to attach the jig top template to some ¼” plywood and then cut out the center part and form the notches that hold the frames in place. There are 5 double frames and 12 single frames – 17 in all. The run of the frames moving aft is pretty straight except for the last few which begin to turn inward, narrowing the hull. The last three frames also rise on th
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The second mortar was forwad of the main mast. Here's a shot of the deck showing the two mortar pits from Timmo's log :
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This is my log for my scratch build of a cross section of the bomb vessel HMS Granado. The plans were drawn by Jeff Staudt and were based on Peter Goodwin's AOTS book, which I plan to use as a reference. The section is from the center of the ship and includes 3 gun ports on each side, and a pit for a 13" mortar, one of two mortars on board. The rectangle in the image shows the location. I purchased the plans in 1/24 scale, but that is clearly too large for the space the Admiral has alloted for the model so I'll build her in 1:32 scale. Even at that reduced scale, the model is 7-1/2" hig
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