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    Pewaukee, WI, USA
  • Interests
    Building period furniture, aviation, sailing, model ship building.

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  1. I finished the deck framing. No poly on the upper surfaces yet. Next up is working with bloodwood for the hatch coaming, the waterways and bulwark planking.
  2. I cut the pillar under deck beam #2 to length. Here it is, dry fitted. I plan to pin it to the keelson and the deck beam. The piece of holly near the footwaling is just a measuring stick I used to locate the pillar on the keelson
  3. Thanks! I turned a few pillars out of swiss pear to support the upper deck beams. They rest on the keelson.
  4. I cut and fitted all the ledge for the deck as built so far. Nothing glued in place yet...all friction fit!
  5. Thanks, guys! I installed all the hanging knees, lodging knees and carlings from the aft end of the section to the forward edge of the mortar pit. I'll add the ledges to finish this part of the deck before adding the beam arms and the rest of the deck framing.
  6. Thanks, guys for the "likes"! Here is where I am. I've got all the deck beams notched and have started installing them from aft forward. Because the beams sit in notches in the deck clamps, they can't move. Fitting the hanging and lodging knees is really finicky if you want a tight fit. I'll add the carlings and ledges and finish the deck up to the forward end of the mortar pit. That's where the hardest part of the deck starts: fitting the beam arms. I cut them generously and left them a bit thick. They are so long that I have to account for the deck camber.
  7. I finished all the blind mortises for the carlings using the technique I described earlier. It really went pretty quick and doesn't look bad. There is poly on all the deck beams, and I'm ready to start assembling the deck. Sorry for the blurry photos!
  8. Thanks, Jean-Paul, and thanks to all for the "likes"! A friend and collaborator, Joseph, is doing 3-D drawings of the plans and we are making changes to simplify construction for those less experienced. This includes eliminating the rise in the frames moving aft as well as eliminating the narrowing of the hull moving aft. He also drew up the deck such that all the beams, carlings, ledges and lodging knees were the same thickness (pictured). I decided to use stopped dadoes on the beams to seat the carlings. Thus the carlings would be thinner than the beams. I'll keep the ledges and
  9. I started work on the upper deck by rubber cementing the deck beam profile templates to a sheet of 3/8" swiss pear. I used the scroll saw to cut out the beams, and sanded them smooth. Each beam is 12 scale inches square in profile! I cut the beams slightly long and used the disk sander to sneak up on the final width. I'd like them to fit with no side- to-side play, but the fact was that due to the tumblehome of the top timbers, I had to make the final beam length a little short so they could fit into their notches on the clamps. Any side-to-side play will be taken care of by using removabl
  10. I cut and notched the 4 planks that make up the upper deck clamps. After bending them to the slight aft narrowing they were glued in place and treenails added. Then I cut out the eight mortar pit support knees and pinned and glued them in place.
  11. Thanks! I'm working on cutting the mortises into the upper deck clamp today. Meanwhile, I laid out and installed the treenails in the mortar pit deck. I used a #61 bit and birch toothpicks!
  12. I built the secondary mortar pit deck off the model by edge gluing the planking together. I then located where the center of the circular cutout would be and drilled a hole. I transferred this location to the primary deck by putting the deck back in place and marking the primary deck with a nail through the hole. I whipped up a little jig to hold the secondary deck in place while I drilled out the circular recess with a Forstner bit. The secondary deck was glued in place.
  13. Thanks, guys! After gluing the mortar pit support beams in place I began work on the mortar pit itself. The first parts to make were the boundary timbers that define the outboard boundary of the pit deck. These are swiss pear timbers with a rabbet ploughed into them to accept the secondary planking layer. There a two layers of planking. The primary or lower layer is thick: about 9 scale inches. The secondary layer, which lays on top, is thinner and has a recess cut in it for the rotating platform the mortar sits on. Holly can get mold growth which can stain it a bluish gr
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