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DocBlake

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pewaukee, WI, USA
  • Interests
    Building period furniture, aviation, sailing, model ship building.

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  1. Ebony is tough on tools, so I have dedicated carbide bit blades for both by 10" table saw and my Byrnes saw, I use them just for ebony. I also HATE to change sand paper in my Byrnes thickness sander, so I want the piece of ebony to be close to final size when I begin the final thicknessing. I use my jointer to get flat surfaces to bear against the fence and table on my table saw. I raise the blade and slice off a piece less then 1/32" thicker than final thickness. In then finish the dimensioning with the Byrnes thickness sander, using a couple of passes with the coarse grit and then the fine grit. Essentially no hand sanding required.
  2. I've built 4 models with yellowheart as the outboard bulwark planking, simulating ochre. In my 18th Century Ship of the Line build, I used boxwood. I liked the look and it worked well with the ebony, bloodwood and holly. I think I'll go with boxwood for Blandford. The ship of the line had the channel wale I mentioned in my last post!
  3. In Goodwin's AOTS book, he states pretty definitively that the decoration/paint scheme of Blandford is speculative, as no definitive evidence of what was actually done exists. Depictions are based on what was common practice and on contemporary models. This gives a current model builder a lot of latitude in deciding what to add! Obviously the wales will be ebony (black). Some might opt for an ochre color for the middle of the three wale planks, but I think that's too "busy" for my taste. The bulk of the outboard planking should be ochre (yellowheart or boxwood). 17th century, and early 18th century British ships often had a couple of thicker planks at the level of the channels, known as "channel wales". Blandford did not. But adding two black strakes where the channel wales would be does add a pleasing visual effect. Here is a rough plan of what I intend to do: I'll probably make the fenders of ebony, also!
  4. I couple of years ago, I picked up a box of scrap ends, cutoffs, split/cracked pieces and other un-sellable wood pieces...all of ebony! The cost was about $30. The wood is useless for full size woodworking except to make pegs or contrasting small inlays etc. but for modelling, it is very usable. It does take some preparation, though. All the ebony parts we included in our three kit project "17th Century Battle Station" came from this stash. I just completed the blanks for the wales and black strake as well as for two black strakes to be used at the level of the channels for some contrasting visual interest. The photos show the wood and the thicknessed blanks.
  5. I cut out the bulwark planking covering the gun ports and trued the pot sides and sills with some small files. I treenailed the inboard planking and laid the deck on the port side where the cannons will sit. Here are some shots. I need to put on a couple more coats of poly and begin work on the outboard planking.
  6. I fit the gunport liners before planking the inboard bulwarks. The plans called for the vertical liners to be the same thickness as the horizontal liners (sills). By making them a bit smaller, I was able to cut the rough gunports along the line where the frames glued up, making the cuts much easier and straighter that cutting through the solid beech. I then planked the bulwarks. I also added thicker spirketing planks above the waterways.
  7. I've been working on some odds and ends. I finally decided I'd like to make the gun carriages out of boxwood. I liked the look of the boxwood carriages we used in the 17th Century Battle Station build. We used Mike's plans, and I had the carriages cut out of boxwood. Here they are, without the cannons. We have another idea for those!!!
  8. Good job! I like the sails. I have always felt furled and flaked was best for sails on a model. Turned out well.
  9. Following! Wherever did you find commercial 1/4” plywood that is thicker than 1/4”?? It’s ALWAYS thinner in my experience!

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