Jay 1

Mark, duh!--I totally missed those resources; thanks for pointing them out and the link!

Jay

I am looking for books or articles that clearly describe--and even better if there are accompanying good photos or drawings--how to lift from plans and then loft that info. into drawing, or other similar, software. I eventually want to go to the dark side and scratch build; right now I am thinking that I'd like to break into that area of model shipbuilding by starting with converting a couple of solid hull kits to POBs.

Currently I have both volumes of Underhill's Plank on Frame books, but found him a bit difficult to follow due to the lack of photos/pics--I just learn better on some things when I have visuals and this is one of those areas for me. I just found and last night purchased reasonably priced copies of Hahn's Colonial Schooner & Ships of the American Revolution but have no idea yet of how in-depth they go into lifting and lofting. Also, given when both of these were written, I doubt these go into translating lifted data into software; however, I don't think that part of the process will be hard to figure out as long as I clearly understand the process of how to lift and loft.

Since a lot of both new and used model shipbuilding books are available to me only through the Internet, it's a drag buying a book sight unseen and then discovering it doesn't contain the information I'm really after. To avoid some of that, I figured I throw my question/request out here on the forum and see what is recommended.

Thanks for your time, help, and suggestions!

Jay

Wefalck, that's a great suggestion and solution for the Proxxon! You're spot on about the spindle size--it's difficult to see how it's sitting on a reference surface.

Joe, I didn't know they offered that discount--thanks for the heads up!

Wefalck I was wondering about this in relation to the vise I'm using, since it's what I use for most of my work. Thanks, your post answered my questions. I think I'll use a rod in a collet for a quick check, and it sounds like the technique will be fairly accurate for most of my drilling work with the Proxxon. I eventually want to purchase a decent milling setup, but for now, the Proxxon will work for most of what I'm currently building (and planning to build in the near future). The next major tool purchase will be a lathe (am looking at Sherline's 17" (~ 43 cm) bed model).

Jay

Wefalck, you're right, both methods are very simple--much less complicated than the picture I had in my mind; now I completely understand your technique with the drill bit and block--thanks!

Jay

Joe, your CAD work is looking really nice! Am eventually going to go that route myself. I bought a few solid hull kits that I want to convert to POBs--those are sort of how I am planning to cut my teeth on scratch building.

@ Wefalck: Would you post a picture or two of your tramming setup, please? I think I know how you're setting your tramming gear up, but a photo's usually worth a 1000 words.

Between this build and your restoration/redesign project, I'm thoroughly enjoying seeing your excellent craftsmanship, Michael!

Thanks, Joe--I'll definitely give you a shout! . Sounds like you're getting your CNC setup going, wow, CNC mills and lathe setups are awesome--you'll be able to do some really amazing stuff with your new rig!

Jay

Joe, I'm going to give it a google today, thanks as I had no idea that there were devices for tramming mills (last time I used one was over 20 years aog). The device you posted looks sweet and it's small--perfect for hobby setups!

Now I just need to find a small center finder for drilling dowels on their sides (found some but they look too big for a mini drill press).

Jay

Darren, your technique is awesome! Yep, totally understand what you described--simple and effective. Am going to bend some piano wire stock that I have and give it a try today.

Joe, that's a great tool! It's been years since I worked on a mill; learned how to tram 'em using old school techniques--getting the column right was the hardest and most time consuming. Am looking at Sherline mills, once I take the plunge, that's the 1st tool I'm going to buy because tramming a mill is a bear. I think the mini will work for the x-axis on my Proxxon but it maybe too wide for the y-axis (will have to read the tool's specs to know for sure).

Thanks fellas, appreciate your taking time to lend a hand--these are great suggestions!

Jay

Thanks Mark. One place where I get thrown off is when I adjust the head after checking the square--I'll tighten the head & it often gets thrown out when I do so. Hmm, methinks I have to be smarter than the tool so more fiddling is called for... May need to use some shims on the table as well--still getting used to working with such small tools.

I recently purchased a Proxxon drill press along with a vise and x-y table. While I'm happy with the setup, I haven't yet figured out a good method for squaring the press to the work I'm drilling.

I've tried using a small square to align the head and work with mixed results. However I think the trick may be to square the head with the fixed shaft that the head raises and lowers on instead of with the x-y table / vise.

Was wondering how others square their mini drill presses?

Thanks!

Jay

Thanks for your feedback, Russ. It'll be interesting to see if this was done elsewhere, so will study old photos, where possible, when I start those projects (am fortunate to have a good public and several university libraries nearby).

Completely understand about not posting the entire photo re. unscrupulous people. The pics you've shared with your build are great--thank you!

Jay

That's an interesting observation, Russ--am curious if that deckhouse design was exclusive to Biloxi schooners or extends to schooners in general? I'm eventually going to be building a few schooners, so your observation is something I'm tucking away for when I start my research. That's also a very nice photo--looks like one fellow is wearing a bowler, so am guessing the picture is somewhere between late 1800s to late 'teens or early 20s?

Jay

Your re-work looks great, and I like the color contrasts you used with the stains. Mmm from what you've said, and also from what I've also experienced, replacing key basswood pieces on a build with harder wood is the way to go--adds a little to a kit's cost but perhaps saves on hassle and etc. with fighting with basswood.

Just caught up with your log; the serving machine Michael built is really nice--his work is stunning! And looking forward to your wedding pics...for your bridal registry, maybe list all the building tools you'd like...

J

Russ, I'm enjoying seeing your work and reading your thought process as you move forward with the build.  Love what you paraphrased from Underhill...I'm learning that it's spot on for this hobby!  BTW, did you keep or chuck the hawse lips?  Will look forward to seeing the scarph work you do when you install the final rail.  Oi, are you in the trenches for the summer session? 

Russ, those lips look like a difficult call but you'll make the right choice that works for you!

Jay

Michael, I'm totally blown away by your work--you sir, are a master craftsman and then more!

Jay

Beautiful work, Russ, and your research and source material access is fantastic! Really am happy for you that you're getting some time in to work on your build--must feel good getting back into your shop.

Jay

Glad your time freed up a bit and you were able to get some build time in--she has lovely lines, Russ. Looking forward to watching the clutter!

Well done, Robbyn--it's looking really nice!

Just caught up on your build, Robbyn--she's lookin' great! Removing the BHs and sanding down the frames and a bit of the keel looks like it was a bit tricky--good thing sanding is a meditation for you... Yeah, these smaller boats are a challenge because of their size but they're also a lot of fun. Looking forward to seeing your progress on your build!

Jay

Another thought about the price-point differences is that the Mamoli kit price is also likely higher due to currency differences (and currency exchange fees) between the Euro and Dollar; also there are associated import costs as well (shipping expenses, customs, and so forth). So what I'm throwing out is that for the Mamoli kit, you're paying for those costs if you purchase the kit (that goes for any imported kit as well). While a firm will usually buy in bulk to increase their per-item margin and to help offset those per-item expenses, those costs are still associated with imports and are passed on to a consumer in an item's pricing. Oi, it's the accountant in me...

Jay

Your planking looks great, Robbyn--well done! Can relate also about basswood fuzz--running into the same problem. Stay safe--more weather is moving through Denver tonight & may be heading your direction.