Jay 1
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Posts posted by Jay 1
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Sam, since I'm on "the list" I might as well dig myself in a little deeper for the refit by bringing everyone some brews to go along with all the popcorn:
Jay
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I hear ya, Mark--both ME and BJ have set very high bars. I really hope the eventual new owners of both firms carry on their predecessors' business and customer-service ethics! I'd hate to see either bought by the ilk you describe--those who just want to wring out a buck regardless of the consequences; should that happen, I think it would result in the death of either firm.
Oi, just realized that this topic may be railroading Tim's build! Sorry, guy--I'll be quiet on this subject!
Jay
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Yep Mark, I'm sure. Here's Jeff Marger's lead paragraph from BJ's 7/23/13 news letter:
"In last month's issue of ShipShape, I mentioned that Suzi and I were considering retirement, and that we were starting to look for potential new ownership for BlueJacket. Our major goals are to make sure that BlueJacket continues into the foreseeable future, that the company will be operated in the same manner as has been our tradition, and to insure the well-being of our employees."
Jay
- avsjerome2003 and tasmanian
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Sam, what about the sails? Lol, sorry, couldn't resist!
Looking forward to your re-make, so am pulling up chair to follow along and periodically ask about sails...Jay
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They announced it in their last newsletter, I'm with you Tim--I also hope someone good takes the company! All my dealings with them have also been very positive. Recently ordered some dowels that the USPS totally destroyed, sent photos to BJ just to let them know. A whole new set was by priority mail in one of the most elaborate mailing tubes that I've ever seen--the postage & packing easily cost more than the dowels!
Jay
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She's a beauty--it was kind of sad seeing the wreakage of her in the slings...
The Bluejacket kit is sweet (albeit pricey), would be nice if more of their kits like this one were POB but the cost of conversion may be more than what the company can afford (just recently read that the owners are putting the company up for sale, as they are retiring). Jay
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I've got my beer, pretzels and a seat pulled up to watch your build, Sarge-- looking forward to watching her unfold! Like a few others, I'm a whaleboat fan too.
Jay
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Absolutely stunning carvings, Kay--sir, you are a true master! Thank you so much for sharing your beautiful work with us!!
:)Jay
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Michael, she's looking great--really am enjoying watching this beauty unfold in your hands!
Jay
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Michael, try this link if you still didn't get the Essex on ME's site: http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS2041
Jay
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Max, you may also want to consider the .35mm nozzle, cap, & needle. I generally have better results with these than the .5mm parts.
Jay
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She's looking great, Bob--beautiful work!
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Wefalck, I'll use the source you suggest/use--it makes sense for bit sizes that are used a lot--much more economical!
Jay
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Frank and Harvey, I guess the 3 of us are the bad hand bandits! Seriously, Frank I hope your surgery heals quickly as well--thank you for taking the time to reply with your offhand!
Wefalck, Frank, and Harvey, thank you for all this great information--very much appreciated! I'll be ordering Briney's book this evening. Your insights and knowledge have gotten me on the map. I did troll MSW for bits info., but didn't see a lot on the particulars about what's what when it comes to the bits. Wefalck, what you added about carbon bits is very helpful.
Given the cost of good bits, I want to invest in the right ones for the work we do. Nope, won't be doing any serious mill work with my press--if I run into something that will be a serious mill job, I'll wait until I have the right tool to do it safely and right!
Jay
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Richard, thanks for the ME paint info. In general, I've found white acrylics are difficult--most brands I've shot tend to be thick and require a lot of thinner. I usually thin this color to a skim milk consistency and then shoot several coats until it looks right (I should be posting pics of the Flattie I shot this weekend hopefully sometime later this week--doing trim and touch up today and most of this week).
I haven't heard of the Chinese gun before.
Jay
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Norman & Harvey, many thanks for taking time out to answer my questions--very much appreciated!
Harvey, I especially appreciate your reply both for content and the effort it took you! I hope your hand surgery went well and that your healing is fast and complete!! I went through a right-hand surgery 4 months ago and totally can relate to how difficult doing somethings can be--like left handed typing or buttoning trousers or shirt buttons--while a hand is immobilized!! So thank you very much!
Harvey my use will be pretty similar to yours, so your info. is a great starting point for purchases. I'll google Harvey retailers (plus see about getting a Harvey catalog).
Jay
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Max, instead of thinning with distiller water try using lacquer thinner. Tamiya makes a great thinner that works really well for their paint (normally I use regular hardware store thinner for most paints, but it didn't work well with Tamiya acrylics), so if there's a better hobby store near you, give Tamiya a try.
I've read that ME paints don't shoot well when airbrushed, but the users may not have thinned well or it could have been what they thinned it with or it could be the paint. I'd suggest starting w/a 50-50 paint-thinner mix and see how that works. Some ppl use stuff like windex or etc. as thinners, but I genrally get good reults w/ laquer thinners. Also, play with your psi. You can then adjust both the mix and psi, based on your test sprays. I usually err on the side of being a little thin w/ my mixes (i.e., more thinner)--it's easier to deal with thin layers of paint--I just shoot a few more coats until I'm happy with how it's looking.
. With acrylics, also open your air 1st--away from what you're shooting--then do the paint with your trigger--this helps minimize the initial splattering that acrylics tend to have in guns.While I'm new to model ships, I cut my airbrush teeth on plastic/wood airplanes--lots of lessons learned. One thing I am learning with ships & airbrushing is filler. Spots were I've used filler tend to show the filler. Minwax in particular, because it has a rather grainy texture, so wanted to throw that out as a watch for this thing.
Jay
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I'd like throw out a few questions I have about milling bits:
1) I'm looking for a US or Canadian vendor that sells milling bits that are reasonably priced and decent quality. Who do you recommend? Completely understand you get what you pay for, esp. when it comes to tools, so am looking for a decent balance between price and quality.
2) For our hobby, what size milling bits do you tend to use the most? Flat or round nose?
3) Which is the best way to go: 2- or 4-flute bits?
4) Is HSS the most versatile? I'm thinking at this point more of my milling will be with wood, but maybe some light metal work later on.
5) Would love to hear additional suggestions, recommendations, and ideas!
Right now I'm looking at using the bits with my Proxxon drill press x-y table (will use collets when milling), but will eventually step up to a proper mill--most likely a Sherline.
Thanks for your help and input!
Jay
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Richard, while some say that shooting with primer isn't necessary with acrylics, I'll usually shoot a coat or two before I paints with colors. It's been my experience that wood will absorb those primer coats and subsequent coats of color will then go on a bit nicer--however, I still test with brushes on scrap wood to get an idea of how things are looking. Usually, I'll lightly sand between coats with 400 or 600 grit, depending on how the primer or color coats are looking (I forgot to mention that I usually use fairly thin primer & color coats for my base).
With an airbrush, you can usually shoot successive coats fairly quickly because the paints dry fast. However, when I shoot a final color coat, the paint is a bit thicker, I pre sand with finer paper---1000 or higher--and wait 8+ hours to a day between the last base coat I shot and this final coat. I then wait the same amount of time if this last coat needs sanding or if I'm going use a poly coat (btw, don't shoot polys or etc. with your gun--they can screw up you gun).
If you use primer, go with a dark one if you're going to overcoat with a dark color & light primer for light colors (the last makes sense
). I use dark primers to get richer, deeper looking dark colors. Jay
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Max I haven't shot any ME paints yet. Tamiya takes about a 50/50--I use their thinner--mix, with a higher psi. Watch your gun tip--acrylics tend to foul more than enamels as well; I periodically give it a wipe with a q-tip when I'm spraying and then a good cleaning when I'm done.
If you have spare ME paint, your testing hopefully will work out the bugs before you do your ship. If you have to use more thinner, go for it. Try to shoot when it's a cool day (during summer I either shoot in the morning or late evening), because more thinner can sometimes cause paint to dry before it hits what you're attempting to paint, so distance from gun to object is important. Also, more thinner may mean you'll have to shoot several coats--but if the paint is shooting well, that's usually not a big bother, plus multiple coats often look better.
Hope you didn't mind the earful, Max--guns are tricky at 1st, but once you get it down, hopefully you'll enjoy using them!
Great price, Don--congrats! Sorry, I can't offer an opinion or help on the brand you won--never have used 'em. However, much of what I've mentioned to Max will apply. A clean gun is crucial, figuring out psi for different paints is trial & error--enamels usually shoot lower than acrylics; same goes with the thinning.
Good luck and enjoy your new setups, fellas!
Jay
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Here's a link to a science forum that offers a slew of suggestions: http://www.thenakedscientists.com/forum/index.php?topic=5283.0
Jay
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Looking forward to seeing it shot with paint, Michael--great color choice! Figured the rain was keeping you from working on Maria as well--am enjoying watching that gem unfold!
Jay
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Max, they're great--like everyone else has said, you got a great deal! One thing to keep in mind, be sure to clean it well--esp. the needle--after each time you use it. Also, shooting different types of paints (i.e., acrylics, enamels, and specialty paints--metallics, for instance) requires some trial and error. For example, with acrylics, I find that I need more thinner and a bit higher psi with the gun than with enamels. I recommend practicing on scrap wood and etc. before you do something that matters to you so that you can learn your particular gun and its idiosyncrasies. Now that I'm used to my Iwota, I totally love using it.
Enjoy and have fun: Iwotas are awesome guns--congrats on a your great purchase!
Jay
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BOUNTY by samueljr - Mamoli - refit
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
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Out here we call it "Rocky Mountain P#ss Water," so wouldn't want to inflict that on my MSW shipmates!
Kidding aside now that it's pasteurized, is Coors available on the East Coast Sam? I lived in CT during my high school years and used to bring it from CO to friends in CT; back then it wasn't available pretty much east of the Mississippi because of the pasteurization issue. These days, I'm mainly a scotch drinker so if I were bringing beverages, it'd be the brew of your choice along with a very mellow 18-year old single malt. 
On a different note, I'm looking forward to seeing where you go with the re-fit and how you decide to do those areas. It'll be a great to see how an experienced builder tackles those jobs!
Jay