Srenner

There is also fly tying threads 2/0 is roughly 0.12mm have to use the dernier to estimate the diameter and it comes in colour's and waxed options

I bought some beginner books from Amazon about square rigging and ship modelling from the recommended list on this very site. So while they coming i did refer to the frank martini book ship modelling simplified and started to rig up the fore stays in pairs and taping them down first. But have also realized using the rigging for English boats book that this model does not have enough shroud deadeyes in the channels to be accurate. In the Lee's book it says seven deadeyes in the fore mast shrouds which makes sense being six plus one preventer shroud. So decision time do I rip the channels off and try and bodge a new channels or go with the kit? Also suspecting the kit provided blocks, deadeyes and rope all not to scale so makes it difficult to progress with more accuracy. I'm comfortable progressing knowing that the kit will be a good beginners guide and not get hung up on the technical accuracy. There are many skills still to gain so everything a learning.

Finally finished the gun deck. Getting the hooks and loops into the side of the ship very difficult and tested my eye sight and skills with twizzers and pliers.

Laughing right now... just went back and read the first entry in the log... 6-9 months to finish... yeah right! It's been over 2 years so far

After hours and hours of mucking around in blender in a 3d curve environment, I'm alot happier with the head rails etc under the bowspit. They are copied quite closely to sister ship hms blandford. And very different from the original kit rails. Look it isn't perfect but to wrangle the curves in blender and print them out was cool and given me so much learning for bigger models in the future. I am pretty confident this will be the blueprint for this area in future. And I can scupt some nice decoration nexr time to fit in there. And Mrs greyhound has something to stand on and hopefully not fall off into the water!

I've finished the 3d printed rails so it was time to paint the good print of Mrs greyhound... a little apprehensive as painting figures is not my fortay and it's bloody small but the vallejo game colour kit seems to give the skirt some good highlights... and for a 4k printer the level of detail is good. So for a figurine you have never seen before posed by merehuman and printed on a anycubic 4k here she is....

Throwing my two cents in here... to allow for the inevitable accuracy issues when lofting from 2d to 3d, laser burn and xy inaccuracy with the plotting table dont you add extra onto the bulkheads to allow sanding down to a smooth hull as per normal fairing during construction? The question is how much more which is pretty much trial and error until you happy with the results? Perhaps 1mm extra all round the "true" surface? Agree a simple design like a dory in bigger scales will allow for more inaccuracy in first attempts and be more forgiving.

After seeing the bow of such vessels as HMS Victory I didn't like the 3d printed one I had on Greyhound so I pulled it off. Also to do the gammoning rope around the bowspit. Anyway I'm going to have another go at 3d printing some decorative rails that meet up better with the figure head. Rather than guess about the complicated curves in this area I tried to mock up with some wire the run of the rails, take some photos and then use a nurbs curve in blender to create a print file. Plus, minus the rails will go along roughly with these lines. But of course will print them and if I don't like them then print them again.

Can people help me to understand the rigging plan for a 1719 establishment? I think I have it right now but if you can check my simplified diagram and the names. The plans that come with the ship are completely wrong and I want to start my ship of sail modelling career out correctly so that I can copy it for new builds later. Essentially I will be going off the lees book but help from here on the website and not the plans in the kit The annoying thing is I will have to scratch build some trestle trees for the flag staff at top of each mast and guessing the height of each mast is probably wrong in kit. But not too worried as long as I get the stays correct on this first build

After being back from Europe for 4 weeks, I am starting to get back into the model ship building. I have been working on the mast sections and starting to near completion. The way I did the mast tapers was through squaring the dowel at the taper end then using a drill and a file to round it off and decrease the taper down from that to the base. No one is going to get the vernier out to see if the taper is correct as the amount of ropes etc make looking at the mast detail difficult. After seeing so many other model ships in Greenwich and else where I am going to remodel some parts of the ship to make them simpler. Ships are not made to have lots of fine detail. HMS Victory was very utilitarian on the inside and outside. And finally a pack of Vallejo game colour paints arrived after being out of stock for six months. Going to get down to painting up the figure head and clarifying the bow area of HMS Greyhound

Taking a break from the model ship building and visited a beautiful happy place, Greenwich UK and the maritime museum. Loved the displays and lots of beautiful ship models here. Absolutely gorgeous 😍 Plus the Cutty Sark , what more could you ask for?

I have a anycubic photon m3 and the touch screen control panel cracked meaning it was really hard to use. So after googling around the process of changing spare parts didn't seem that hard, so I jumped in and tried to find a 2.8 inch touch screen replacement. Anycubic were out of stock so needed to find after market solution. I can recommend that chitu systems who write chitubox have spares for printers and I ordered the 2.8 inch screen and 7 days later it arrived from China. No instructions but tonnes of videos on the web to sort of follow. So the process to fix the screen is as follows, the photos document the steps as well: 1. Take off the bottom plate screws and remove the bottom plate. 2. Undo the electrical cables to give better access 3. Take off the plastic guard to stop cables crossing into the lcd and laser area of the printer. 4. Take off the control panel card 5. Undo the cables by flicking the little black bars on the connectors upwards. 6. Plug in the new screen and make sure the screen going in the right way up. There are no marks indicating the top on the Chinese card. 7. Re screw the screen into the printer. 8. Due to different plug in point on the replacement the original printer cable was slightly too short but chitu systems sent a spare cable in the box which was long enough. 9. Remove original cable and plug in new one. Push black retaining bars back down to lock in. 10. Replace cable guard and tuck all the cables down out of the LCD screen perimeter. 11. Test again all good before base plate placement. Plug in cables and screw down plate. I left the plastic screen protector on.. it works with it on and gives a little bit of protection from resin drips from the vat That's it.. all fixed

Working on the bowspit collars as per 1719 collar arrangement with the heart blocks on the bottom for the Bobstays amd the deadeyes for the fore preventer stay and the forestay. Tried my first gammoning and ok with the result.. at 1/100 scale hard to get a perfect knot but happy enough. Pretty much I'm ignoring the kit rigging plan and just using the lee's book.

Starting to make progress on the main and the fore mast. The woodlings have gone on thr fore cast and made the main top. Have put bees on the bowspit and figure of eight lashings on the jib boom. No spirit top on this model. Next is the woodlings for the bowspit and start the heart blocks for the shrouds.

I've completed the fore mast, just have to taper last section. The kit supplied parts take a bit of alteration so that the mast is straight. Have to make the hole in the fore top slightly longer on a bow to stern axis to get the two pieces of dowel straight. I wanted a aged look to the mast so I used a dark timber stain to bring out the dowel grain. Then light sand. Then used linseed oil to dark the light wood colour. I'm going to gloss them up with a coat of shellac at the end. Picture of the completed wheel , 3d printed and painted