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Srenner

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About Srenner

  • Birthday December 20

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  1. Hi Isaac Im stuart and live in Auckland. Still working on hms greyhound and can start to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Have worked on getting upto speed with 3d modelling on the computer and also 3d printing. Next purchase is a cnc machine so you might be helpful. Cheers
  2. Its very difficulylt to get a good photo but i think im pretty much done on the foremast... only two masts to go. I also went on a digital detox this morning and deleted facebook and instagram.. i have to finish this darn model so that i can go onto something else...
  3. I would start on here.. there is the 3d print forum on the front page you can post a question or people will offer to print stuff for you and post it. I did a few parts for people who are following my build log
  4. Hi... im in Auckland and have been doing ship building and 3 d printing now for 2 years or so. My 3d printing skills have improved alot so happy to lend a hand when it comes time to start creating print files and printing things... Would be great to know other nz builders. Cheers Stuart
  5. Ive done the port side ratlines using the method recommended for scales 1/100 which is not to tie each ratlone on each shroud but juat glue them on with ca. I seized one end of the ratline to the outmost shroud then using the guide reverse seized it to the other shroud and pulled it tight. I know some people like to have the ratlines sag in the middle but im happy with the straight look i achieved. I also added the foremast carpathians for the 1720 period which is seized to one shroud and zig zag across to the outmost shroud. Fiddly as buggery but i can see the light at the end of the tunnel for the foremast. Ratlines on the starboard side and then start seizing the shroud pairs onto the main mast.
  6. I managed to fix it by just cutting the binding cords and then ripping it off the block. But because it was too short i had to bind a extra bit on. It doesnt look that good but best i can do... im moving on as sooo much to do and loosing patience. I put on the fore top gallant yard, the top gallant lifts and belayed onto a shroud cleat... small and so cute Im basically done with the fore mast, except for the catharpins and all the rat lines... not sure what is going to easier doing them first or last
  7. Um... help.. what do you do to fix this?all my shroud loops are on the mast. It looks aweful with one deadeye up so far out of line. I know i need to take it off but how do i do it as ive already cut the shroud to that size. Bloody hell!!
  8. I hve rigged up the fore topsail tie and the fore topsail lift. Its getting lot of rope up there and a bit messt but i have all the inportant ropes in there. Cant imagine doing a sailing rig on 1/100 scale boat... too many ropes. I scaled the heaxagonal section and 3d printed that and stuck it on. Im going to put the final set of lifts on the top gallant after i have completed the topsail shrouds. Im hitting the wall a bit knowing that i have to repeat all of this again with the main and mizzen mast. It looks good but wow what alot of work to do it!!
  9. I might be doing this all wrong but ive tidied up alot of the line down at the fore bitts.. my belaying plan is not following any sort of accuracy, im playing with what the kit gave me in terms of instructions. The only thing i am doing is rigging the fore lift near to the edge of the ship on long blocks as per lees book but in the paterrson book it goes to a block on the fore channel. Once again if i had more space i could do that. I put the block on the rail instead. I will be putting coils of rope over each belaying pin so probably wont see them I didnt tie the truss pendent correctly but just glued the lines on approximately and also rigged the nave line and belayed it on the fore bitt.
  10. I managed to rig up the jeer blocks okay... very fiddly but hey this is rigging. They a little lopsided but im not going tk change it... its close enough for me today. Now i have the fore yard no i am going to start belay pinning down at the base of the mast... again quite a lot of tricky stuff to wind around the belaying pins down there.. might have to cheat and just spot glue it and then put a coil of rope over the rope.
  11. I have found the phrozen 8k resin to be the highest detail and pretty strong due to the number of "nano particles" in it. But it is brittle and dont think it would like machining post print.
  12. I may be doing this all wrong but its getting pretty congested around the fore top area so i rigged the jeer blocks onto the spar before i rigged it up and then poked the stirrups up under the for stay and then im going to stap them to the mast afterwards. The parrel is so small and delicate i basically just stuck it on for the look. It isnt going any job with holding up the spar. And i had a bit of a mistake with the lift blocks but i have followed the 1719 pattern according to lees book
  13. Working at 1/100 scale there was no way i was going to make realistic parrals for 1720 rigging with wood so i once again turned to the 3d printer. Ive gone it.. they very delicate to take the supports out of and i broke 5 just to make one so print off heaps of clones. But i have realised it doesnt end in a parral, the trucks dont have a end parral! So back to the printer again. I must say i love that it takes about 10 minutes per print these days with the rapid resin. 1720 it was indeterminate if the yards were left on place or lowered so thats why the parrals are needed.
  14. Hi Keith- im up to rigging the truss pendants... where is toni's tutorial found? On this website?
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