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Old Collingwood

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  1. So today-tomorrow I will be carrying on with my flat - top coating as I still have a few more French to add, and possibly spme more French I could make up in my stash (will need to check) I aso have Colonel Claude Charlet to add after he has been flat coated. Still lots more to do before the Big Finish. OC.
  2. Indeed brother, I think Wellington was right in putting the KGL in there as they where battle hardened troops, who would not let up defending the farm. OC.
  3. This is similar to what I am trying to achieve, take no notice of the roof colours they where Grey slates not Red tiles. OC.
  4. Excellent progress Craig, i will be a Stunner when finished - love the idea about the contrast panels. OC.
  5. Im in also, you shoul have a very plesent journey with thie kit - its getting very good feedback as being an excellent kit - possibly the best 1 48 scale Sea King. OC.
  6. I did a count - I have nearly a Hundread figures in my dio so far with about another Fifty or so still to add, not to bad considering the space I have 3ft by 2ft. OC.
  7. Like in my pic further up I added some strips of wood in between each frame - way to do that is to measure the gap both port and starboard and and after making sure the frames are true to the keel - cut and glue in place the wood strips working your way down each corresponding port and starboard frame, I used a block of wood that I knew was perfectly square and sat that where the frame met the main keel frame, that way you not only get a true frame to keel but also adds strength to the skeleton stage of the build. OC.
  8. Thank you hamilton, I followed the Rabbet and Bearding line info also before doing it in my build - also the addition of extra fram fillers helped alot. OC.
  9. Like Hamilton said - this was the most difficult - confusing stage of the build for me - it took me days if not weeks of trial and error - testing adding wood fillers and asking lots of questions to try to correct the errors in the kit. OC.
  10. Frame no12 needs to be sanded flat where it meets the keel (keeping the natural curve but making its lower point level with the main fraim) this way the planks will follow a natural flow up to the rear when you start planking up from the keel. Hope that makes sense. Check out my pic showing a natural smooth line - OC.
  11. I picked up a little tip (I am yet to try) I was finding Vallejo Surface Primer (Black) dries with a slight sheen and not a nice flat surface like other primers, so an idea floating around was to add some matt acrylic flat coat to it, the idea is that any normal acrylic colours on top of it should adhere better and be a proper flat shade (as Blue acrylic on mine was not drying flat on top of my un altered vallejo primer. OC.
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