Frecap

Hello everyone! I haven't figured out how to make the moldings of gratings lighter yet, so I've been busy with other things. I've made the afterdeck and balcony decking and started working on the aft gallery. I've attached the parts that give it the desired shape, and to achieve the correct positioning of the moldings, I've used double-sided tape to attach the windows and brass photo-etched decor. I don't like the way it looks, and I won't be using these parts. It's just to help me understand where to attach the moldings.

Hi, Nearshore! Thank you for your feedback! When making the cable reels, I didn't use all the details suggested by Corel. I made the cheeks them from walnut wood planks, following the shape described in Brian Lavery's book "Anatomy." I used squares of black paper to model the holes for the bars. I really like your work. It looks great! I've been following your publications with interest even before I started creating my own model.

Hi, Paul! Thank you for your feedback! I think the comings of the gratings should be lighter. I'll try some bleach.

I don't want to remake the grates a third time. Can someone tell me how to lighten dark wood?

Since the structure of dark walnut slats contains even darker, almost black fibers, the slats look overly contrasting on a light-colored deck.

But then, looking at the photos of the museum models, as well as the photos of the HMS Victory, I decided that the shape of the grates should be the same as it is there – rounded at the top. During the processing, all the thin slats were worn down, and the grates became light again. Therefore, I had to redo them for the third time. I made the camings out of dark walnut and gave them the desired shape. Here is what I got:

Hi! I wanted to see more small details on the model. I decided to start with the gratings on the main deck. As suggested by Corel, I made the grate comings out of light beech wood. However, I was disappointed with the result. The finished product almost blends in with the light deck. It doesn't look good. Therefore, I decided to add a thin, darker rail on top. Here's what I got.

Hi, Harlequin! Thank you for the feedback, I'm trying my best!) Before building my model, I carefully reviewed everything I could find on this topic. Including your excellent work. I've learned a lot from it!) And I'll keep learning more!)

Hello everyone! I spent the past week fixing the location of the gun ports on the main deck. I had to raise them 2-3 mm and cover the bottom part with a walnut rail insert. I probably should have matched the rail better in color, but it turned out the way it turned out. The inserts are visible in the photo, but the general appearance of the model does not catch the eye. I also started making frames for the main deck gun ports. The slats for them were previously painted in a dull red color.

Hi All! So, the work is moving. Since my last post, I have lathed the main deck, the inside of the bulwarks, installed the waterway and the afterdeck gunwale. From the outside, I installed anchor cushions, alignment of the cleats and a False wale. Glued the transom board and installed the bulkheads of the forecastle and quarterdeck. I don't like the fact that the bulkheads are made of brass plate, which doesn't paint very well, but I thought that both of these details are deep in the structure and don't catch the eye. I painted them brown (to look like wood), shaded the window openings with a simple pencil, and painted the columns on the quarterdeck bulkhead white. Maybe I'll add some more details to them later. The waterways were also pre-painted so as not to suffer on the assembled model. After sheathing the main deck, a very unpleasant problem came to light. Apparently, I hurried to cut through the main deck gun ports. After assembling one cannon and trying it on, I saw that the port was cut very low. The cannon barrel rests against the bulwark above the port… Cutting the port up 2-3 mm will not be any problem. But then it won't be square in shape, but rectangular. We'll have to make some kind of inserts to close the undersides of the ports.

Greetings, Ronald-V! Yes, I want to keep the natural wood. I'll just paint the barkhouts black and the upper part of the sides blue with decor. Like the Charles Middleton model, but without the copper plating

I finished the hull cladding with the second layer. I also lathed the keel, stem and the stern. I've done the pre-sanding. That's what it looks like.

Hello, cnemo! Now the work is going fast and a some later I will post new photos where the bow of the ship will be clearly visible.

Thanks! It's an interesting activity! I am pleased to see how the building is being transformed!

Thanks! That's until the enthusiasm runs out!