Frecap

Hi, Nearshore! Thank you for the rating, it's very nice!) I bent the rail by steaming it in hot water and then ironing the tip with an iron, gradually bending the rail. If the radius is slightly larger, it bends normally. However, in this case, the radius is only a few millimeters, and it caused problems. I think it's important to take your time and repeat the steaming and ironing process several times, as there's a chance of the rail breaking. The first bend turned out to be good, but on the second, where the rack rises up, it broke. And on both sides. And I glued the broken parts with PVA glue, for strength, I glued several small pieces of thin rack into the concave part and then, when the glue was dry, I processed it with a round file. So, in fact, you are right, this part is composite, in two parts. Probably, you can not suffer and make it composite at once. In the future, I will probably do it. Yours sincerely, Frecap.

Thank you!) The monitor screen may not have very accurate color reproduction. This is not brown, it is black.

I mounted the gunwale on the bulwarks of the fordeck. I painted it, as well as the rails and toptimbers. I left an unpainted strip on the gunwale for better adhesion when gluing. But I won't glue the toptimbers yet, as there is still a lot of work to do with the case and I don't want to accidentally break the fragile structures. But I couldn't resist and took some photos).

Here are some photos from the process of making the fordeck's railing. I appreciated the benefits of the pear wood and purchased several different sizes of planks and use them whenever possible. The top timbers of the fordeck's bulwarks form the gun ports, and as a result, the fife rail consists of three parts. Since the bulwarks converge strongly towards the bow, the group of bow top timbers has a parallelogram cross-section. This is also shown in Corel's drawings. I didn't bother with the rest and made them rectangular. Many small details have to be made by hand. Of course, it is difficult to achieve their full identity. But all the photos are taken with magnification, in reality the difference is not so noticeable. Especially all this will be painted black.

Hi! I've replaced all the rails that were part of the second layer of the model's sheathing, installed the planksheer on the beakhead, and the roof of the roundhouses. I'm currently working on the rails and top timbers of the foredeck and beakhead.

Thank you for the information, Ronald! I'm not much of an painter...) But this is about relief. I'll try to give the details at least longitudinal relief using scribe plates)

Ronald, I was referring to these bars. Are they also laser-cut? What is their width? I'm asking because I'm currently in the process of assembling a head. Corel doesn't have any laser-cut pieces, and I want to add texture to these parts. However, they are very small on my scale.

Ronald, is the ornament on the slats that cover the head timbers just painted, or is it embossed? Did you use a brush or a stencil? How wide are the slats?

Ronald, hello! Great job! High-quality materials plus skilled hands and attention to detail work wonders! Thank you for your publications, they help me see the work of a true master and learn from him!)

I use a transparent glue, Titebond. In some cases, when the surfaces are already painted, I clean off some of the paint with a sharp knife

Hello, Ronald! I join in all the enthusiastic compliments!This level of skill is something worth striving for!) You write that you glue the PVA directly onto the painted surface. I tried it too, but I couldn't get a solid connection (Maybe it's the paint... Now I leave unpainted the part of the surface on which I'm going to glue something. Yours sincerely, Frecap

Hello everyone! Finally, the model has taken the same appearance as it did before the upgrade! New rails have been installed. They are made of a pear-shaped slat with a 1x1 mm cross-section, which has been pre-shaped. When I looked at numerous photos of museum models, I noticed that in many cases, the waist rail was wider than the others, so I decided to do the same. I didn't have a 1x1.5 mm rail, so I glued another 0.5 mm rail to the existing one, rounding its edge first. Since the waist rail runs along the main deck, interrupted by the gun ports, I glued it in short sections.

Hi! After holding the already painted body in my hands, it is not very pleasant to see it with peeled-off sides. I'm in a hurry to return the model to its former appearance, correcting mistakes along the way. Painted again, using masking tape as a separator. Since PVA glue does not adhere well to acrylic paint, I left unpainted strips for the rails to be glued.

Hi! As we say: Eyes are afraid, but hands do! It's not very pleasant to do the dirty work on the already painted hull, but it didn't really take much time. Just a weekend) I cut off all the rails on the sides and stern. Only on the stern galleries I left everything as it was. Put in order the right upper part of the bulwark. Now the beakhead looks symmetrical. The partially scraped paint doesn't look very nice, but I think the new paint will be of better quality, as it's easier to apply masking tape to a smooth surface.

Hi, Nearshore! Thank you for the feedback! Actually, I would have made the tool with a groove of 1.2-1.3 mm. It doesn't seem like a significant difference, but the 1 mm wide rail looks thinner than I would have preferred. However, I won't be making any changes now. Regarding the placement of the roundhouses, I intentionally chose this location. These structures were used on ships as latrines for junior officers. It was necessary to provide a place for removal of feces. Therefore, on English ships of the 18th century, they were often placed in this way. This can be seen on museum models from that time. For example, here is one of Bellona's Sistership. Аnd this is Victory. By the way, despite the fact that the Corel company does not always follow historical accuracy, in this case, their drawing shows that the roundhouses protrude slightly beyond the edge of the beakhead. But this was not always the case, sometimes roundhouses were installed within the framework of a beakhead. In such cases, the feces were excreted by the scuppers. In the Anatomy of Brian Lavery's Ship, the drawing shows exactly that. Unfortunately, there are no rownhouses on Thomas Slade's model, so we can only guess what it was like on BellonaI think. Every modeler can do what he thinks is right. By the way, the round houses also housed observers in case of bad weather. They had round windows for this purpose. They were also used to punish misbehaving sailors. Roundhouses protruding beyond the edge of the beakhead should not interfere with the head structure. Main head reil should be attached to the outside of the side. By the way, this is how it is done on your model. You can see that there is enough space between the beam and the beakhead. I think I can do it right too. Sincerely, Frecap.