Frecap

Hello everyone! I haven't figured out how to make the moldings of gratings lighter yet, so I've been busy with other things. I've made the afterdeck and balcony decking and started working on the aft gallery. I've attached the parts that give it the desired shape, and to achieve the correct positioning of the moldings, I've used double-sided tape to attach the windows and brass photo-etched decor. I don't like the way it looks, and I won't be using these parts. It's just to help me understand where to attach the moldings.

Hi, Nearshore! Thank you for your feedback! When making the cable reels, I didn't use all the details suggested by Corel. I made the cheeks them from walnut wood planks, following the shape described in Brian Lavery's book "Anatomy." I used squares of black paper to model the holes for the bars. I really like your work. It looks great! I've been following your publications with interest even before I started creating my own model.

Hi, Paul! Thank you for your feedback! I think the comings of the gratings should be lighter. I'll try some bleach.

I don't want to remake the grates a third time. Can someone tell me how to lighten dark wood?

Since the structure of dark walnut slats contains even darker, almost black fibers, the slats look overly contrasting on a light-colored deck.

But then, looking at the photos of the museum models, as well as the photos of the HMS Victory, I decided that the shape of the grates should be the same as it is there – rounded at the top. During the processing, all the thin slats were worn down, and the grates became light again. Therefore, I had to redo them for the third time. I made the camings out of dark walnut and gave them the desired shape. Here is what I got:

Hi! I wanted to see more small details on the model. I decided to start with the gratings on the main deck. As suggested by Corel, I made the grate comings out of light beech wood. However, I was disappointed with the result. The finished product almost blends in with the light deck. It doesn't look good. Therefore, I decided to add a thin, darker rail on top. Here's what I got.

Hi, Harlequin! Thank you for the feedback, I'm trying my best!) Before building my model, I carefully reviewed everything I could find on this topic. Including your excellent work. I've learned a lot from it!) And I'll keep learning more!)

Hello everyone! I spent the past week fixing the location of the gun ports on the main deck. I had to raise them 2-3 mm and cover the bottom part with a walnut rail insert. I probably should have matched the rail better in color, but it turned out the way it turned out. The inserts are visible in the photo, but the general appearance of the model does not catch the eye. I also started making frames for the main deck gun ports. The slats for them were previously painted in a dull red color.

Hi All! So, the work is moving. Since my last post, I have lathed the main deck, the inside of the bulwarks, installed the waterway and the afterdeck gunwale. From the outside, I installed anchor cushions, alignment of the cleats and a False wale. Glued the transom board and installed the bulkheads of the forecastle and quarterdeck. I don't like the fact that the bulkheads are made of brass plate, which doesn't paint very well, but I thought that both of these details are deep in the structure and don't catch the eye. I painted them brown (to look like wood), shaded the window openings with a simple pencil, and painted the columns on the quarterdeck bulkhead white. Maybe I'll add some more details to them later. The waterways were also pre-painted so as not to suffer on the assembled model. After sheathing the main deck, a very unpleasant problem came to light. Apparently, I hurried to cut through the main deck gun ports. After assembling one cannon and trying it on, I saw that the port was cut very low. The cannon barrel rests against the bulwark above the port… Cutting the port up 2-3 mm will not be any problem. But then it won't be square in shape, but rectangular. We'll have to make some kind of inserts to close the undersides of the ports.

Greetings, Ronald-V! Yes, I want to keep the natural wood. I'll just paint the barkhouts black and the upper part of the sides blue with decor. Like the Charles Middleton model, but without the copper plating

I finished the hull cladding with the second layer. I also lathed the keel, stem and the stern. I've done the pre-sanding. That's what it looks like.

Hello, cnemo! Now the work is going fast and a some later I will post new photos where the bow of the ship will be clearly visible.

Thanks! It's an interesting activity! I am pleased to see how the building is being transformed!

Thanks! That's until the enthusiasm runs out!

Hi, everyone! I continue to trim the model with a dark walnut rail. I use PVA glue and an iron. I glued the pads to the narrowed keel and achtersteven. Then I'll give them the right shape and hide them with a finishing trim.

Before starting the next stage of assembly, I thought for a long time about what to do first – to mount the aft gallery, or finish the hull cladding with a second layer. After carefully examining the models of various ships, including the Bellona model by Charles Middleton from the Greenwich Museum, I came to the conclusion that, after all, the gallery structures are located on top of the hull. That's why I'm starting the second layer. Before that, I painted with black acrylic paint inside the gun ports of the forecastle, quarterdeck and gundeck. And I started the top layer with moldings No. 56, 58 and two slats between them. Unfortunately, at the very beginning I took the wrong slats for the cladding. Beech, instead of the dark walnut intended in the trim kit. Well, that's fine. Anyway, this belt will be colored blue. Next, I will use the right rail.

Hi! Nearshore! Thank you for your assessment!

Well, I've finished the first layer of cladding. Treated with sandpaper. The hull takes on the shape of a ship) For some reason it looks rather rough in the photos, although tactile - everything is smooth. Well, as it turned out, so it turned out... I'll try to fix the flaws with a second layer.

Hi, Nearshore, thanks! When I started the plating, at first I didn't understand how the rail would fit in the stern. I've looked at a lot of photos, and you've shown the entire assembly process in particular. And at this stage, you can see how the slats should be positioned.

On many ships in general, and on Bellona in particular, the stem and afterstay are narrowed from top to bottom. This is seen, for example, in Brian Lavery's Anatomy of the Ship. In the whale from Corel, this is not in the drawings. I decided to make this narrowing, but I obviously overdid it) I'll have to make overlays later.

I continue the cladding of the first layer. Things are moving, there's not much left. With all my efforts, it looks a little clumsy, but I think that subsequent processing will fix the situation.

Thanks! I have studied the process of building your Bellona very carefully. It helps a lot in my work!

Hello Harlequin! I've seen your wonderful work. Photos of various stages help me in my work!

Good day to all! When I started assembling the Bellona model, I studied a lot of material on the history of this ship, as well as the history of the models that are stored in the NMM. In addition, I looked at several options for assembling the Bellona model from different craftsmen, both amateurs and recognized luminaries in this field. Accordingly, I decided on the concept of assembly for myself. I want the model to be aesthetically beautiful. At the same time, somewhere it is possible to sacrifice historical authenticity. To justify this fact, I can put forward the following argument: this ship has had a very long century, during which it has undergone many repairs and its appearance has changed significantly over time. Corel's kit can't provide all the nuances, so I'm going to manufacture many of the parts myself. First of all, this concerns the magnificent bow and stern decors, the painting on the sides and many other details. The photo etching sheet and the poor casting from Corel will not ensure that the beauty of this wonderful ship is properly conveyed. The final result is still very far away, but for now I'm continuing with the first layer of hull cladding. I glued an imitation of the gun ports of the gundeck and the upper decks, layer by layer I glue the lime slats, after soaking them in hot water and bending them with an iron. Some slats have to be bent in three planes to get the right shape. The case is progressing slowly. I glue 1-2 slats on each side per day.