Digitalis
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I really love the look of this ship—way more than the Artesania Latina version. But I’m a little nervous it might be too tough for a beginner like me. I’m currently working on the La Niña (my first build ever!) and want to tackle the full trio—Santa María, Pinta, and Niña—though I’m not stuck on using the same manufacturer for all three. If I manage to finish my current one, do you think this kit would be overwhelming for someone who’s not an expert?
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I’d greatly appreciate any advice or hacks you could share on fixing these larger gaps. I’m sure this wont by my last mistake and I’ll have more lessons to learn along the way! While reflecting on this, I just thought of something... what if I craft some sort of trim or edging strip to fit snugly around each bulkhead column? It might not be entirely historically accurate, but it could neatly conceal the oversized notches. Is this an approach sometimes used in situations like this? or is starting over from scratch the usual fix? I’m trying to weigh my options and figure out the best path forward.
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After some effort, I successfully completed the deck planking for my ship model. However, I’ve run into a few issues and I’m hoping someone can suggest a solution. I decided to plank the false deck before attaching it to the hull, which made the process much smoother. This approach allowed me to easily trim the planks to size, sand them, and adjust the entire deck surface with precision. Pleased with how manageable it was, I then decided to weather the deck to enhance its realism. Instead of simulating nail heads by drawing them with a pencil or using the toothpick method, I opted to punch them into the wood using an old, darkened pinhead. My plan was that, after painting, the holes would fill with paint and create a rusted, distressed look that I thought could add character. While I achieved the weathered effect I was aiming for and was initially happy with the result, I now realize I may have made a HUGE mistake by doing all of this before attaching the false deck to the hull. Some of the notches along the sides—those intended to align with the bulkheads —ended up too large, leaving noticeable gaps that detract from the finish. As the saying goes, "live and learn." At this point, I’m unsure if there’s a viable fix that doesn’t involve redoing the entire deck. My original concern was that planking the deck after attaching it to the hull as it would need to follow the deck’s natural curve might complicate the alignment. I never imagined I’d end up with a problem this frustrating by working on it separately.
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Thanks! There’s so much to learn, lol. I used to think a Sharpie was a permanent marker! Thanks for the tip. What would you recommend I seal it with? I was thinking of using acrylic washes to distress the wood later on, you think that might mess with the Sharpie as well?
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Today, after dry-fitting the false deck and confirming the alignment with the bulkheads, I decided to experiment with single-plank decking instead of the kit’s recommended full length batten deck-planking method. I also tried edge-staining the plank sides for a more realistic look. I considered using the thread-caulking technique to simulate seams, but as a novice, I felt it might be too ambitious for now. I’m drawn to the individual planking approach—it feels more authentic than laying down a single long strip and scribing plank lines afterward, as the instructions suggest. To streamline the process, I batch-cut the planks to length using a straightedge and razor, then bundled them together and lightly stained the edges with a worn-down Sharpie to tone down the contrast (full strength felt too dark). Next time, I’ll add more pencil guide lines on the false deck; relying on a single centerline wasn’t enough, and I noticed some drift toward one side as I laid the planks. So far, I’m pleased with planking the false deck before attaching it to the hull structure. I just hope this sequence doesn’t cause issues when I integrate it later—time will tell.
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This is an excellent reference, exactly what I was looking for! Thank you all so much; this is incredibly helpful. I’ll also make sure to check out the other forum
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Thank you! Yes, I did see that, but I was under the impression you were referring to ships from the 1700s or 1800s. Since the images you shared were of the English Man of War from 1650–1850, I thought they might not apply to my ship. I was just looking for a simple image reference of the pattern and some recommendations of plank length at my 1/65 scale, the whole presentation, while great, feels a bit too advanced for my current skill set. It covers many historical precedents and jumps between actual ship measurements and models, which I really appreciate, but it’s more than I can take on right now
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Thanks for clarifying that those images are for a different type of ship! I found them in a Google image search that was sourced from this forum, so I’m not sure of the original source. I’m still trying to understand what “shift of three” and “shift of four” planking patterns look like, some people suggested them for a ship like mine, so any visuals or descriptions would help. Your Treenails presentation is a great reference, and I’ll keep it handy as I get better at this hobby. Right now, I’m just working on figuring out a planking pattern and proper lengths I should be using for this type of ship. I’m also tempted to try the wooden plug idea with toothpicks, it could be overkill, but it might pay off for bigger builds later... With that in mind I think I will prepare by getting the 5" MAK stainless steel Parallel Pliers, as they may come in handy In the meantime, if you or anyone has tips or examples of hull planking patterns and lengths that’d would make this caravel even better, I’d love to hear them!
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Thanks, that makes sense! The keel seems okay so far, but I’ll keep an eye out for warping. Great tip for future builds. I like the two-plank idea to stabilize it; I was thinking something similar for my vise. For the false deck, I’m leaning toward planking it before attaching it to the keel. Not having to worry about the curves and bulkheads might make trimming easier that way. Any downsides I should know about? I’m still open to suggestions as I figure out the pros and cons. About planking patterns, are they for the hull, deck, or both? I’ve researched period ships like this and see “shift of three” or “shift of four” recommended probably for the deck, but maybe the hull too? I can’t find clear pictures to show what those look like. So far, I’ve found these but dont know if they refer to the deck or the hull, or what determines the length of each plank. If anyone has better examples or tips, that’d be great!
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While reading the next steps in my wooden ship model instructions, I noticed they recommend attaching the deck using nails. However, I’ve watched several videos where builders deliberately avoid nails, opting for glue instead. I’m inclined to try the nail-free approach unless you think nails are the better option here, any insights on that? Additionally, I’m wondering if it might be smarter to plank the deck before attaching it to the hull. My thought is that planking it flat could simplify the process, avoiding the challenge of working around the hull’s curve. I’d love to hear your thoughts or any recommendations you might have!
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As usual, I didn’t have much time today, but I managed to carefully glue the hull frame together. I ensured each section was aligned at a 90-degree angle to the keel. Since the panel was slightly warped, I used rubber bands and clips to apply pressure where needed. I just hope this doesn’t cause any issues later on
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I looked around for those but couldn’t find a single completed build from Artesania Latina. The PDF document listing all the builds only includes 9 logs for La Niña, and just 3 were completed, all from the Amati kit. However, after some research, I discovered that only two users, Jerry and MateuszPL, appear to have finished their builds, even though they are not listed as completed I also noticed that none of the blue links in the document work on my end, so I ended up searching for the users’ names to find their logs.
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Digitalis (Digital IS = Digital Intelligence System) Though I fondly remember my childhood days of snatching foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) flower, pinching it shut with one hand, and slapping it with the other to burst it into a quick, crisp pop—a poor kid’s substitute for bubble wrap XD As for the plans, that was the original idea, but sadly, they don’t even offer them digitally. They do have a photograph page showing front, back, and top views, yet since these images include perspective, they’re far from ideal compared to having each element—like the masts—separated for precise alignment
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Thanks! I successfully printed from the files I downloaded from the internet, and they appear to be nearly similar to the contents of the CD from what I was able to research.
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After finding the instruction manual online, I tried to check if I had all the pieces. It didn’t go well. As a beginner, the parts list was just numbers and names, and half the time I had no idea what they meant—no pictures or diagrams to help. I figured out some of the obvious ones on the precut sheets, and a few planks had tags with their sizes, but others had nothing. I couldn’t tell what was what. So, I decided to just start following the instructions and hope the descriptions and photos would make sense as I went (knock on wood I have everything I need). I didn’t have much time today, so I kept it simple: sanding and dry-fitting the ship’s skeleton. While doing that, I was wondering if there was a better way to get the lasercut pieces off the board. My X-Acto knife blade was a bit thicker than the cuts, and I was worried I’d break something if I pushed too hard. A couple questions if anyone has any suggestions: The instructions say only to glue the frame 10 and stay 11. Does this mean I'm not supposed to glue the rest??? Also they recommend a "white glue" I just got Titebond II & Starbond2 Cyanoacrylate, should I be getting a different kind?
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Thank you all!!
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I may have to work from a phone or printouts since I don’t have an iPad. I just wish it came with 1:1 scale plans so I could double-check the measurements for positioning. I will have to make due for now. Thanks!
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Well, here we are—my first dive into ship-building, and the package just landed on my doorstep today! I’m a total rookie in this hobby, so here’s my unfiltered take straight out of the box. I’ll be honest: I was a bit underwhelmed by this kit. From what I’d gathered online, some builders used to get a detailed 1:1 scale ship plans—nothing like that here, though. Zero. Just a single sheet listing the panels. No paper manual, no basic “here’s your stuff” checklist. Instead, they threw in a CD. A CD! In 2025? My PC doesn’t even have a CD drive. Guess I’m stuck digging around online for help. The parts themselves? Mostly solid, though one panel showed up with a slight bend. And the sails? They came folded with obvious creases, when they could’ve just been laid flat in that big box. Anyway, before I dive into the build, I’ll try to find a list to confirm I’ve got all the pieces. Once that’s sorted, I’ll be documenting this whole adventure here—bumps and all. I’m counting on you veterans out there to toss me your best tips, fixes, or any upgrades to make this ship shine. Let’s do this!
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I forgot to mention that since I’m new to this hobby, I want to use this build as an opportunity to learn as many techniques as possible. I’ll probably customize the ship in various ways to practice different skills. One of my main goals is to “inflate” the sails or shape them to look like they’re filled with wind. I’ve been researching some really cool ideas on how to achieve that, but I just noticed something odd about this kit. It seems the mainsail on the La Niña is portrayed as being sandwiched between the ropes (shrouds?) on either side of the ship that support the mast. That feels a bit strange, wouldn’t the shrouds get in the way if the wind were blowing? My goal is to depict the sails in a dynamic way, similar to the cover of the Heller kit I’ve seen. Can this model be adjusted to allow me to portray the sails like that?
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Thank you, everyone! I’m excited to start my first build. After a lot of research, I’ve decided to begin with La Niña by Artesania Latina. The kit should arrive in one or two days. In the meantime, I’ve been watching videos and reading articles to learn about the different techniques I’ll need to master—especially planking, which seems tricky. That brings me to a question I have. It looks like this kit requires a second veneer layer of planks over the first one. Is that absolutely necessary? If I do a good job on the first layer, is there still a need for the second? I can see how it might help if I mess up—it could be a way to salvage the build—but if I get it right the first time, I’m wondering if it’s worth the extra step. Since I plan to taper the planks as they reach each end and curve them properly in both directions, I’m curious how much harder it would be to repeat that process with a much thinner plank of veneer for the second layer. Any thoughts?
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Hi everyone, I recently stumbled across some model ship-building videos online and instantly fell in love with the idea of trying it myself. Right now, I’m in the research phase, getting a feel for the hobby and figuring out the best way to dive in. My main goal is to build models of the two caravels and the nao from Columbus’s voyage—the Niña, Pinta, and Santa Maria. I had the chance to see their real-life replicas during a trip to Spain, and ever since, I’ve dreamed of creating my own versions someday. As an artist by trade, so I'm very detail oriented and I’m aiming for something I can take pride in, so I’m trying to find the manufacturer known for the best quality materials and detailed instructions. I’d prefer a larger scale if possible. If you have any experience with these three ships, which one would you recommend starting with as a beginner? Are these ships okay for a first-time builder? And which manufacturer do you suggest or consider the best? Thanks for any help or recommendations you may have.
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