42rocker

There was a bow in the keel, about 1/8 inch… too much pressure, I guess.
Off the spacers, rechecked 5 frames still not glued, keel is also in 2 parts.
And the bow disappeared, replaced spacers and lucky I am.

Thank you Pat
 
Carabrente,
 
I forgot about the thickness off the spacers which must be few millimeters under the theoretical value which would be too stiff.  It is better not to calculate but it is better to try a thi.ckness which works easily

Hi noel_colledge,
 
The previous 74 guns 1/24 weighed 130 pounds. To move it, you need wheel as big as you can, the bigger, the easier, and I also a lifting table with a cylinder.
 
Good morning Carabrente,
 
When things are done correctly fillers inserts easily without pressure.  Fillers are all the same thickness at 95% and some are thicker. The idea is the same  as a pressure cooker, you need a valve to release pressure or else it will explode. The best things as others clearly well demonstrated is to a have a spacer not glued at every 4 to 6 frames.

6 months of work and  the last one, sanding only.
 
Vibrations transfer to the frames while sanding, especially with the orbital sander. One way to avoid this is to insert spacers between each frames. This way, each frame does not resonate as when we pinch a violin cord but all the frames become a whole unit and vibrations disperses in the whole assembly.

What would like the shorten version of a 74, something like this.

On the pictures, we see the control plank for perpendicularity in 2 ways. Others are sanding setups for all the curves.
 
The main 2 ways to assemble frames to the keel use a jig to align the frames between them:
 
- a plank supports the frame contour. Frames are assembled upside down as Hahn did or reverse.
 
-Frames alignment can also be done another way; with  just a baguette to align frames. This baguette moves  the same way as the assembly goes.
 
The other part of this assembly is the frame sanding. Again, there are 2 ways to do the sanding : the easy way and the hard way.
 
When a jig is used to support frames, most of the sanding will be done after gluing all the frames and after taking the frames out of the mold. This method is much more restrictive because the accessibility to all the frame parts is restricted when it is in the mold.
 
The other method has the advantage of ease of maneuverability in all the ways you need. Sanding is much more easy, at least for a model at 1/24 scale. Part  which need to be sanded can easily be position. Also another very important part : height adjusting table. Working at the good height is often the difference between holding a heavy part easily or with much difficulty.
 

As an example, here is a photo of a limber way on a ship.
The notch does not need to be very big.
http://www.atlasponant.fr/fiche/icono/Site/056KER001/#3
The building plank was 24 inches wide.
Reduced it to 19 inches.
It is now possible to work even closer to the work.

-> GB: Despite your very unpleasant comments about my drawings, I post this sketch for the understanding of this forum members.
 
It can be seen that the transverse hole must be raised in the filling pieces in order to remain efficient. This also implies that the limber way must be able to collect the water, it must also be raised but especially staying under a strake.
 
Gérard Delacroix
 

Hi GD,  What would that look like in an image especially at the extremities?

Sanding spree has began.
One question comes back often, how to sand inside curve; with around orbital sander.
To reduce the weight of the  belt sander 1 strap is added to support the weight. This is a camera belt recycled as belt sander belt.

Hi Hjx, You are close to what I would like.
 
Ideally, I would like to buy a set of plans in 2D, of by example 74 guns, plus with this, a small visual program where I can extract in 3D, the most difficult parts to realize. 
 
Here is an example how I would like to be able to use it. One important fact is that I can see a part, separately from the entire build. A good example would be to extract the keel from the build so that we can see all the details especially how the planking touch the keel and the grooves made for this.
 
In the 74 guns books, there are often drawings made in 3D by hand. That was 50 years ago! Sometimes 2D drawings are not enough to understand well. This is exactly there that 3D could help.
 
In a way 3D is better than the real thing because it is easier to see the details: the lines show all the intersections.
 
In a realistic way,  I know that a good model needs  5 years to build. 
Still today, I have no idea, how long it could be for an experienced man like you to draw  a complete set of a 3D ship plan? 1 year, 3 years  or more!
 
 Hjx you and other modelers, represent the next generation of model ship builder. I do not know how you are going to use 3D tools. It is realistic to think that better tool will come on the market. In 1750 when they needed a plank to be cut, everything had to be done by hand. Today, electric tool replace most of hand saws. Even if I want to build a model ship as close as the original, I do not think that I am oblige to follow the same path as in 1750. Today, in 2017, electric tools can saves a lot of time and greatly facilitate the work. To build a model ship at scale is not something easy. For many years, when I saw a tool which could help me to build things in a easier way, I saved money to buy it.
 
All I can say, I do not know how 3D will be use in 10 or 15 years from now but I would like to use it a bit if I still live.

To meet a member from the next generation of Modelship builder like Mike: I know that the future of this hobby is in good hand, and yes it was a special day!
 
A dream workshop, and to live in a super expensive town are 2 things very often impossible to match.
 
A lot less expensive in Canada, and the temperature now is 19 degrees celsius outside.
 
It is always a difficult choice to do when we are young. We want to be close to the job and when the job is in a big town, the house has a big price. On the other hand everything is more affordable in a smaller town but with this choice, travel time for the job increases.
 
 
 

That was fantastic! Day well spent, strange that there are no reviews of this museum on tripadvisor
It was a pleasure to meet Gaetan and his wife, see all that models in person (logs are logs, but it is always better in reality!). We are a rare bunch, and when you meet a man who shares the same passion - this makes that day very special.
 
And now I know how the dream workshop looks like:

 

Last week end,  a very good MSW member, from Stockholm, came to Canada for business. He wanted, in his spare times, to visit a Model ship Museum but I suspect he also wanted to see a workshop.  Unfortunately, there is no such Museum near my home, so I prepared an improvised visit of what he could see near Montreal if  such a place existed.

daHeld,
 
It is exactly as cutting a plank: there are many kinds of saws that can do the job.
 
Here is another example with 2 lens: photo 1
 
photo 2: macro lens 100mm at 1 foot: Macro 
photo 3: spotting scope at 7 feet: Macrodigiscopy (Macro + digital photo + spotting scope)

This morning, i was asking myself which type of lens would be the best one for a model ship. When I want to take photos only at a few feet and cover 8 feet large, I need a wide angle. There are 2 types of lens: variable or fixed angle. Theoretically a fixed angle takes better picture  than a variable angle.  I definitely prefer variable angle instead of a prime lens for the following reason. If I install the camera on a tripod and use a fixed angle, I will surely have to move closer or  farther with the camera to get  the part to photography. Always have to move the tripod, I do not like this.
 
What is the best lens? This is the one you prefer. Is there only 1 lens to do the job you want? There is probably more than one. Exploring the possibilities of a lens is very interesting.
Here is a photo taken  with a 150-600. If I follow the rules of the book, I would not use it for a small model ship. But I like the result, so why not try new things.
 
 

Here are the latest photography tests using a Telephoto lens. The first picture, I think is a good example to show how distance  can be compress  by a telephoto lens. If you look at the lanterns on the right side of the picture, knowing that the distance between each one is about 500 feet; you can observe the compression effect on the distance.
 
For many reasons, I wanted to try to take better pictures with a camera and one of these is to show photos of modelship construction on this forum. In this quest I explored many lenses. The biggest telephoto I could afford is a 150-600mm. After this stage, prices are out of range. To show an example of how expensive it can go, the second picture is a used lens of a 1200mm for only : $180,000.
 
There is another way to go with a higher magnification at a much better price. I chose one between 750 and 1800mm. Even if it is a not a  camera lens it acts as one. The main difference is that less light enters by this lens. The name of this lense is a spotting scope. There are many uses, by examples to look animals and birds. There is a new adapter  on the market of 43mm for a full frame camera. This allows you to take photos. It is similar as taking photos with a microsope.
 
Taking photos with a spotting scope, it is called Digiscopy. At first sight, looking at objects from far is of no interest for a model ship maker but as a piece of 10 cents; there are 2 sides to it. The other side being it  also can be use as a macro lens and the minimum focus distance is under 7 feet. The next photos are examples of macrodigiscopy and the last picture shows the setup.

Hi Mauricio,
Very satisfied about it. Ear protection could be better. Best feature, positive pressure inside the helmet, no mist, cool air and no dust.

Frames assembly and gluing on a flat surface in 3 layers:  a plexiglass sheet, wood glue does not stick well on it and it does preserve the next layer under the paper pattern.
Under a Russian, multi layered. It is difficult to find a large very flat surface made of wood because stability and wood do not go together. A good flat surface need to be made from a harder material like high density plastic, glass or a mineral like table pool table slate or granite flat surface.

Parts were layed  down on tables for each frame had 4 groups, 2 parts for each half. 
Regrouped in 62  bundles with elastic... 1 table less is now needed.
 
 
I do not think that I save time buying frames already drawn.
Drawings are not user friendly.
Frames are drawn 1 side only.
 
To help to build 2 half frames with the correct width, I draw on a paper ruler, the correct spacing for each frame at the top of each one. The spacing will surely be more regular this way, at least I think, in comparison if I deuct by the center line of each frame.

Before assembling the frames, fore and aft ends are began.
Actually working at the aft.
It is a long work which goes like this: try, sand, fit...
It is a long ladder to climb, the more level, the more precise parts will be adjusted.
The only question to ask is when is it adjusted enough.
Continuation at the aft section will continue to receive some parts.
Only after ''middle frames'' will be assembled

1/12 is not a so bad idea for: a frigate like Pegasus: around 9 feet.

roughly 18 inches by 24  including the 3 layers of the keel

It is clear that Noel would not buy another one.
In comparison, it is more difficult to breath with with a full face or cartridge mask.
This I did not knew before I tried the positive pressure which is always bringing air.
 
The cartridge mask is directly on the face. not the other one.

Superman said with great power come great responsibilities.
 
The modeler says with a large model comes  a lot of dust,  it is part of the game.
 
 
Druxey,  you are right, plus the 3 feet  belt sander  can change the color of  floor in few minutes. 
 
It is a robust tool (no distortion in the sanding angle) built to sand metal , knife maker use it to give edges very rapidly.