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Mike Y

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About Mike Y

  • Birthday 08/04/1988

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    Stockholm, Sweden

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  1. Stem assembly required a bit of fitting and fairing, laser kerf was not taken into account when pieces were laid out. But overall the glue-up was going easy. There are some small gaps, but I decided not to be a perfectionist here Now the stem needs to be rounded and sanded: End result:
  2. Yes, just bending a cold plank around the former would not work (tried it a few times) - the contact area is very small, so the plank can't get hot enough. So first I heat up the future bending area by using this aluminium former like a clothing iron, sliding it back and forth. Probably a clothing iron is even better, but I did not want to fiddle around with two hot tools at the same time. Only once the plank is hot - it can be hooked to the former and bent. Jorge, very nice solution! It is interesting that there are so many contraptions for the same job, and everybody have different preferences
  3. Oh, right, thanks for clarification! Very well thought through, as the rest of the project. Always reading it with interest, it is a very fine balance between an obsessive overthinking and a careful planning and precision Please keep it coming, we are in it for a long journey, as you said!
  4. Interesting idea with these curved blocks! Need to invest some time into making those as well... I guess they should give a better result then just eyeballing it and using flexible sanding pads to achieve a smooth curve. Have you considered making them from something softer, like a cork block? I made a few shapes with cork when fairing the hull, it is just the right softness level for fairing and it would not scratch the rest of the model if you bump it accidentally.
  5. Practiced more today, and so far for edge bending a small clothing iron works better, takes just 15-20sec to heat up that boxwood strip (5mm wide, 1.6mm thick) to give it a slight edge curve. It is not powerful enough to overheat the wood, while a soldering iron is too aggressive. For the other dimension I had a good result with this soldering iron attachment - press it into the wood for 15-30sec, then when the area is hot enough - hook it and bend it slowly. The iron that is shipped with it is probably not powerful enough to make this big chunk of aluminum too hot, so no problems with wood burning and overheating. I do not have enough experience with heat bending really, just a few evenings and a dozen of planks bent in various directions. Thanks Chuck for promoting this method! It works so far, adding one plank per evening, trying not to miss any days The second inner planking strake is done. But I would still use my old preferred method for thick planks (like deck clamps or wales) - dunking them into a boiling (!) kettle for 30-60sec, then carefully bending by hand and just clamping onto a model overnight, with a slight over-bend. Works like a charm, allows for complex shapes with multi-directional bends, the only problem is a long drying period, can't just glue it right away. No steam box needed, but need to be sneaky so nobody sees you bathing wood pieces in a kitchen kettle, otherwise one would have an awkward explanation to do. My daughter knows though, but she keeps that secret
  6. Thanks for the advices! It is nice to be back, spending a bit of time per plank every evening. Easier than trying to dedicate a long modelling session. Mark, I was trying to avoid soaking, because a soaked plank need to dry for some time, otherwise it will shrink and there would be a gap. The whole point was to be able to bend and glue the plank right away. Maybe it would become dry enough in the area that is heated, maybe not, but it would still be wet in the non-heated area. So I'll just practice more to find that sweet spot where wood bends, but haven't dried enough to be brittle.
  7. Really like the first photo, interesting angle and reflexes on the wood!
  8. Thanks a lot for the comments! They are inspiring Had a bit of a block before continuing the inner planking. Started improving my build jig by adding some magnets to it. Very simple and very convenient, now I can attach tiny plane/chisel/scraper right to it, and nothing will fall off. Just stick magnets to your work surfaces, they are cool! Decided to try dry heat bending (thanks, Chuck!), ordered a tiny iron and a soldering iron with some special tips (really nice way to bend a circle!). It takes some practice... Who knew that you can overheat the wood by heating it for too long? Had a number of planks cracked because of that: A lot of mistakes were made:I need some margin, because it was not easy to control the location of a bend. Will practice more. Unfortunately you can't practice on scraps, results really vary depending on a wood type, width and thickness. I had two identical boxwood planks, one 5mm, another closer to 4.2mm width - the narrower one bends so much easier! But I like the method, no clamping and no need to wait for the next morning. Hopefully I will master that skill and will be able to prepare a bunch of planks during one modelling session. Finally I realised that I do not need an extreme side bend, just a little bit goes a long way. The first bent and shaped plank is in place, made out of a straight strip. So nice to find a method that works! Now I can continue with the rest of the planks. The glue-up was a bit awkward though, since there was no way to clamp the front tip. Luckily it mostly stayed in place because of the pre-bending, so keeping it with a finger worked just fine.
  9. Ab, we would truly appreciate a topic where you can share your stories from the museum. There is a whole audience of grateful enthusiasts here, who will read it with a glass of wine and nice music in the background Can you tell us more about the models your restored? Some interesting findings? Most unexpected issues? Anything!
  10. No words... I hope your spark will come back to you soon enough, and something else (Belle Poule?) will bring a joy back! Too young and green to really feel your situation, but desperately trying to add a tiny bit to that massive community support. Hope to see you onboard again, soon!
  11. Daria is back after the summer, yay! The modelling sessions were rare, but enjoyable nevertheless. We learned how to taper flat surfaces: Fine fitting is easier now, she can do it alone: My clamps were quite handy when laminating the stem, it is tapered so you can't just clamp it between two pieces of glass, and veneer bends with moisture. First time using marking knife for precise trimming of veneer pieces so they fit each other: And her favourite photo: Also learned how to use a chisel in gentle pairing motions. Keeping a consistent angle is hard! And a few last pieces were done completely without me, she did everything from masking to fitting and gluing: But clamping a long piece with a masking tape is more fun if you do it together Hope we'll finish the stem soon!
  12. She is fantastic! The style and charm is there, as well as precise execution!
  13. Before installing any more planks, started drawing the reference lines using tick strips. I should have done that before installing the limber strake, but I really wanted to cut some wood to resume modelling.. I am still happy with my flexible jig, that allows working with model in any direction. Very handy for such jobs, allows resting the hand instead of using it suspended. Now it's time to face some sloppiness that I made when fairing the hull. The exposed side got a lot of love, while the other side had a lot of areas that are not properly faired. "Not a big deal, I will plank this anyway", said stupid me a few years ago... Some areas are easy to fix (just adding a thin strip to bridge the gap): But some are bad, and are located in tricky areas. So I spent a few hours with tiny chisels and riffler files to level cant frames. Luckily no need for a nice finish, since planks will hide all the dents. But it is a very delicate task to avoid scratching everything around. Some masking tape and care is necessary. Note to self, and hopefully somebody will avoid the same mistake: spend extra time fairing everything, especially tight areas. Use a strip of wood to check the smooth run, your eye will deceive you. Any hour saved on fairing phase means you borrow that time and will spend 5x fairing it in situ. Damaging something while doing it. So now everything is lined up, but the close-ups around the stern are brutal Most of it will get hidden though. I assumed equal plank width when lining up, but of course they will have different thickness. It is good to have guide marks anyway! So now it's time to start planking, and hopefully avoid too many redos. Really worried about sloppy fairing biting me down the road, will see. Will try to counter it with creative sanding. In worst case scenario - will use a full set of carlings & ledges when making the deck, so nobody will see the mistakes

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