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Mike Y

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About Mike Y

  • Birthday 08/04/1988

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    Stockholm, Sweden

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  1. It's so nice to realise that we inspired some to start building with their kids Hopefully there would be more! Will try to share all my observations, maybe it would be useful. Of course, everything is different, and I only have one child to compare. The modelling sessions were around 20-30 min at the age of 6. There was no expectation of a quick result, but more of "I want to do the same thing my dad is doing", plus a natural interest in doing something crafty. Each finished phase was treated as a semi-finished thing you can play with. I remember same when I was a kid - finished model was as exciting as an unfinished one, so do not stress too much about it. It is unlikely to be finished unless you can do it many times per week. Expect some deviations from the plan, this is normal and increases the interest. For example, my daughter likes to build things from small scrap pieces left over from my build, by gluing them together and to a piece of paper. The starting skills are non-existing, every technique needs to be explained with some practice and help. How to hold a file? Sanding? Gluing? Cutting? Every single operation is new, account for that when planning a build. Prepare every session, so you have parts at hand, tools ready, etc. Each method and skill is introduced the following way: show it first, explain how it works. Let the kid practice on some scrap, first holding hand, then letting go and allow to make some mistakes. Do not start with safety precautions, introduce them gently where necessary. Dremel is quite kid friendly, by the way (if you do not use cutoff wheels and such). One of the hardest skills is keeping a consistent angle / plane when using a tool, as well as consistent pressure. Steady hand when using a file, for example. Still struggle with that a little bit, so do not have a very high demands on filing quality. Sanding is tedious, plus a pressure level is different. Split the time evenly, so kid feels that the contributions is fair. But just because of skill and pressure, your sanding would do 70% of the job. The other person holds a vacuum hose, which also counts as help. Let the child help, find some "busywork" in a delicate situations. For example, some of the planks in our kit are a very thin and delicate veneer, which breaks easily. I was doing any edge shaping, but she was helping to fit, hold the light, etc etc. Safety-wise - perfect time to introduce dust protection and safety glasses, no problem with that if you both use it. Dust protection is mostly decorative, all the masks and respirators are way too big for a child face, but it's still a good habit. I used a vacuum to really catch small particles when sanding. Plastic or wood? Plastic models involve CA glue or cement, both are harder and more risky to use by a child. Also parts are smaller. Wood - larger parts, safer tools (file, sandpaper, PVA glue). Some machine tools are also fine - with some help and introduction, she learned how to use Dremel (nylon brush to clean the glue squeeze-out, sanding drump, drill), disk sander (low power, so it would stop even if you stick finger into it) and even a bandsaw (of course, all supervised). At the same time, I would not dare introducing table saw or a mill, that one is too risky. Planking is actually doable by a kid if planks are pre-shaped (laser cut). Assembling the hull (bulkheads and so on) - doable as well. The rest is up to you, probably a lot of details needs to be skipped. But even if you will end up with just a planked hull - it is already something that is nearly finished. Add a mast and few sails - imagination runs wild! Do not forget that it's all for the process - positive reinforcement, highfives and a good mood is the most important technique in the whole exercise. It helps to be a big goofy, make stupid mistakes and let a child correct you and help you - it makes them very very proud Hope you will have many enjoyable sessions with your granddaughter, that she will remember for a long time afterwards. Does not matter if she will end up with a finished model.
  2. The Christmas present arrived a bit late this time. Two small handmade rasps from Lioger (France), that made me feel bad and sorry for a person who is making them by hand. What a nasty work that is, ding din ding with a tiny hammer... A pity that it is not automated. And two rasps/files from Vallorbe (Switzerland). Both are quite pricy, so I was hesitant.. But these are lifetime tools of a great quality. All these combined are quite handy for my "favourite" work - shaping smth in situ, instead of doing it in advance
  3. It should be possible to retrofit a wooden frame (or a "top lid" at least) on top of your case, and the best part - you can even replace it back and forth until you are satisfied with a result, since it would not be structural, just added on top
  4. Hoorray, another Hahn build, this time from giampieroricci! I like the transformation of a rough hull to a smooth one after fairing, very satisfying! More progress pictures, please!
  5. You need quite some rigidity when sanding, to achieve it and prevent misalignment when humidity changes - you need temporary spacers between frames anyway. Hard to imagine how that can be done with a non-temporary joints. Replacing a frame or two is doable by just dissolving PVA as described above, but getting them all in and out?
  6. Small update on my living room modelling corner, it evolved a bit over the recent years. It is a balance of utility against aesthetics, for example most of the storage space is elsewhere (in a storage cabinet in 5 meters from that corner). Hidden under the table: vacuum, thickness planer, bandsaw, table saw, air compressor, mill, lathe, vise, box of scraps, lathe and mill tools and accessories. On the table top - disk sander, and assortiment of handtools is in the small wall mounted drawer. So everything you may need is there. Yes, getting machines out gets old pretty quick (though a lifting table makes it easier), but it is a price for aesthetics I guess my main message is that you can adapt a really small space (this table is just 120cm / 4 feet wide) to be a neat area, suitable for scratch building with all the necessary tools, while keeping it cosy and not creating an eyesore. Main additions that I can recommend: * Table with electrical height adjustment. The most used and convenient tool, can't recommend it enough. * Inset vise in that table - allows you to mount model or some woodworking parts to the table without any ugly protruding parts. I use it every time to mount the model. * Quiet household vacuum (hidden under the table) - more than enough for our applications, small and quiet comparing to "shop vacs". You really do not need a shop vac for modelling scale, even when doing thickness planing or sanding. * Magnetic bars for most common tools, in general small magnets everywhere - helps with small blades and chisels that tend to fall and get lost otherwise. * Small spot lights on a flexible shaft - moved every time. A bit of compensation for a lack of powerful overhead lighting. That's how it looks when in use
  7. Wow, that is quite an impressive weathering (not overdone) and quality of details on this scale!
  8. I did the LED strip lighting (dimmable) from both top and bottom at the same time, you can see some photos in the build log https://modelshipworld.com/topic/7297-oliver-cromwell-by-mike-y-148-1777-pof-hahn-style/?do=findComment&comment=561189 The strip is mounted at 45 degree angle. It is some high quality high CRI strip, did not want to cut corners, especially since I only need two meters of strip. It works pretty well, I am quite happy with it! Few nuances: * Strip mounting angle is quite important for the top strip, really recommend to play around with angle before you decide. I thought it does not really matter, it is not a spot light, right? Wrong. * Top strip is really recommended, since the bottom one mostly hit the underside of a hull (obviously). Not sure how you can retrofit a top light into your case that has no structure on top... Though you can experiment with some really cheap USB powered strip, these can be bought for 5 bucks. * Try to hide a strip using some strips of wood, consider a light diffusing paper on top of a strip (sold in the same shops that specialise in LED solutions), to avoid a bright light from individual LEDs hitting your eye. But this is a compromise leading to larger dimensions of the top of the case. Can't recommend prototyping enough, make some cardboard strips in 1:1 scale to test the dimensions. It is really hard to imagine how the lighting will fit into your case it by just drawing on paper or CAD. Attaching the photos of other people's cases that I found here on MSW, food for though:
  9. Great start! Hahn simplifies a lot of details in his drawings, you will find plenty of "giant pieces" that were built out of multiple pieces in reality. Just use more detailed sources if you want to build it in a more realistic way. For example, the stem is likely made out of more pieces, etc etc. They are quite visible on a model, and actually look way nicer in a detailed form, to my taste... On my model, Hahn version looks like this: Looks too crude, so I scrapped it and re-made in a bit more detailed way, based on other drawings and books. Note that this is not a full level of details, for example that triangle in the middle should have been broken down as well, etc etc. But still looks a bit better.
  10. This is something else, but there is more than one "correct one". Try it, shake it, make sure it is not too flimsy, check the max height if you are tall

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