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Mike Y

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About Mike Y

  • Birthday 08/04/1988

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    Stockholm, Sweden

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  1. Aawww! How does it look when LED strips are on? Never tried lighting from that angle, can you show a few photos?
  2. Just for the information - looks like the order queue is pretty short now (Mikhail says that he has more time to manufacture them due to covid). My order was ready in just a few weeks (from the first email to the production process)! So if you were thinking about it, but were hesitating - now is the perfect time to order! He has some standard cutter sets, from 15-ish to 25-ish items. One can even pick and choose the desired cutter types. The price per piece is the same regardless of the cutter type, and only depends on the handle (plus box and shipping). As all the others
  3. Thanks a lot for the detailed reply! I will try to read more about it. Eagerly waiting for the next model updates
  4. Bolin, maybe you would be an appropriate person to ask, since it is a bit related to the vessel you are building.. Last summer I had a brief visit of Skärgårdsmuseet on Nämdö, a tiny museum in the old school building on one of the islands. They had some factoids about Roslagen sloops and one thing made me puzzled: apparently there were some restrictions on the size and type of the ships that the archipelago farmers were allowed to have, and these restrictions were one of the major drivers for the design of these sloops (trying to maximise the efficiency). What was the reason for such
  5. The ceiling planking is completed. Finishing was super easy and I'm happy with the resulting finish. Final result with a natural light: Not as happy with the overall result. There are some mistakes in the treenail pattern, and some lines are not so smooth and fair on the photos. Uneven treenails also bug me - even after finishing they look pretty different, some are much darker than the others. It looks like I used different wood and different diameter holes, which is not the case. Would never use bamboo treenails anymore, even if they a
  6. I did tested a water-based and a spirit-based dye, though on pear instead of boxwood (both have similar texture, pear being much cheaper). After 10 months of being exposed to an occasional sunlight the spirit based dye turned into a mess. Before: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/7297-beavers-prize-by-mike-y-148-1777-pof-hahn-style/?do=findComment&comment=455741 After: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/7297-beavers-prize-by-mike-y-148-1777-pof-hahn-style/?do=findComment&comment=514733 As usual, the finishes popular in US may be hard to find (or expensive
  7. Your accuracy and precision level pays off! These frame pieces look great, please avoid using that scary drawknife on them!
  8. Håkan, Osmo is pretty common in Sweden, I have it in two random local hardware shops, no need to order from other countries. Plenty of sources online: https://www.pricerunner.se/sp/osmo-hårdvaxolja-3062.html For example: https://www.bygghemma.se/golv-och-vagg/malarfarg-och-tapet/olja-och-bets/hardvaxolja/hardvaxolja-osmo-orginalet-matt-3062/p-449522-427600 It is really easy to apply, you can use literally anything to just put it on your part, spread it around with a tool of your liking, and then you have around 3-5min to wipe it off carefuly with a paper towel or a cloth be
  9. Finishes that were tested: (the bottle on the left side is a pure tung oil) Results: Unfortunately photos can't show all the nuances, I'm not a good photographer Don't want to make you bored with a full description of each test piece, just the main notes: 1) Be careful with your pure tung oil, it looks like mine started to solidify - the finished piece is full of small shiny glitter-like speckles, and the result is quite uneven. When I finished frames with the same tung oil - there was no such problem, but the oil was fresh. It is also the darkest of all th
  10. To test the finishes I made some test pieces: 1) Boxwood planking fragment. With a bit of treenails, cross-piece with a glue left over from one side, and a few glue drops specifically planted. I remember that some finishes highlight the glue drops and any imperfections, so I've made them on purpose The cross-piece makes it harder to wipe off the finish, and I want to see how the build-up in that corner would look like. 2) Deck structure imitation, with a bit exaggerated curve to see how finish absorbs into diagonal grain. Half-circular piece creates a tiny corner that is hard to clean
  11. Just a small note - the crank one from IKEA is very flimsy and has a lot of play, you get what you pay for. The proper electrical (BEKANT) is pretty sturdy and I can fully recommend it, best tool in my workshop. Note that they sell it without a tabletop as well, and you can screw on any tabletop that you like. The office-style fiberboard top may not be strong enough if you clamp a vice on it, drill some holes, etc. Solid wood is more practical for out needs.
  12. Very realistic! Can you make it smell too? Might worth to scratch it a tiny bit with steel wool or some brite pad (aka the scratchy side of a dishwashing foam pad) to lighten the edges a bit. Though it definitely needs some experimentation first
  13. Very fine quality work! And a nice photography as well Thanks for showing your milling setups, some of them are quite creative! One question though: when you milled ladders by using a double sided tape and a block of wood - how do you attach that block of wood to the mill table? I do not see any clamps there. Another layer of a double sided tape?
  14. Greg, druxey, thank you both for the input! Will definitely try the "clean" look too
  15. Håkan, you are lucky, we have a number of suppliers who sell it (I use Arkowood from Germany). It's not cheap (they sell custom milled sheets (50x500mm) with good surface finish for around 8-10€ for 1-2mm thickness, 13€ for 3mm, 15€ for 5mm, 19€ for 8mm), but not prohibitively expensive considering the size of your models. Beware - once you've tried it - you may be hooked
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