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Mike Y

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About Mike Y

  • Birthday 08/04/1988

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stockholm, Sweden

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    michael.yalov

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  1. The Christmas present arrived a bit late this time. Two small handmade rasps from Lioger (France), that made me feel bad and sorry for a person who is making them by hand. What a nasty work that is, ding din ding with a tiny hammer... A pity that it is not automated. And two rasps/files from Vallorbe (Switzerland). Both are quite pricy, so I was hesitant.. But these are lifetime tools of a great quality. All these combined are quite handy for my "favourite" work - shaping smth in situ, instead of doing it in advance
  2. Hoorray, another Hahn build, this time from giampieroricci! I like the transformation of a rough hull to a smooth one after fairing, very satisfying! More progress pictures, please!
  3. You need quite some rigidity when sanding, to achieve it and prevent misalignment when humidity changes - you need temporary spacers between frames anyway. Hard to imagine how that can be done with a non-temporary joints. Replacing a frame or two is doable by just dissolving PVA as described above, but getting them all in and out?
  4. Wow, that is quite an impressive weathering (not overdone) and quality of details on this scale!
  5. Yay, another Hahn build! Like your surface sanding jig, very neat!
  6. Great start! Hahn simplifies a lot of details in his drawings, you will find plenty of "giant pieces" that were built out of multiple pieces in reality. Just use more detailed sources if you want to build it in a more realistic way. For example, the stem is likely made out of more pieces, etc etc. They are quite visible on a model, and actually look way nicer in a detailed form, to my taste... On my model, Hahn version looks like this: Looks too crude, so I scrapped it and re-made in a bit more detailed way, based on other drawings and books. Note that this is not a full level of details, for example that triangle in the middle should have been broken down as well, etc etc. But still looks a bit better.
  7. With your quite serious and thought through approach, how are you planning to address a possible warping / shrinking / cracking in case of humidity changes?
  8. This is something else, but there is more than one "correct one". Try it, shake it, make sure it is not too flimsy, check the max height if you are tall
  9. Hi Andre, They are fairly common in modern offices, and allow to work while standing. Height is adjusted smoothly and continuously with two buttons under the table, no tools required and it takes a few seconds. It is not a fixed set of positions, you can move it like you move your car window. I move it up and down all the time, depending on the work being done. They used to be expensive, but then IKEA released a very decent version for half the price (model name BEKANT). You can buy the ready-made office table, or just a frame separately. Screw any tabletop on it and you have your custom made electrical table. It is nice to have a solid wood instead of an office fiber board, so you can add a vice and clamp things without damaging the top. They exist in different sizes, colors and even corner versions are available: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/products/?q=bekant frame stand The only downside - it is a table for light work, not a replacement for workbench, since legs have motors and screw rods embedded into them. So I would not recommend chiseling a tenon an mortise joints for your furniture projects on such table... Otherwise it is great There are a few topics on this forum where this was discussed in details, with photos, etc.
  10. Thanks, Michael! Your words mean a lot to me Getting second thoughts about some distant plans on making a 1:96 model, too fiddly indeed. At least planking at my scale is easier than with 1:24, I guess!

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