JanV

Hi Mates,
 
Shipyard has been very much part-time for the last couple of weeks – busy with year-end details, AND a so absolutely pathetic driver ran into my sweet car changing a lane without even first looking– so dealing with that as well. Her insurance accepted 100% liability.
 
Frank: glad that this technique is helpful for you as well
OC: yes hindsight is always 20:20 thanks for your visit.
Martyn: thanks so much
Denis: thanks as always for your kind thoughts
Ferit: Looked at some but don’t think they will help
 
In the meantime I have, however located all of the main mast lines into their proper pin-hole locations.
 
And pre-coiled all of the needs ropes at one time. I was doing them one at a time before. This should help with the multiple installs.
 
=========================
Sharing my sad car situation. after and again after  -- Been to the body shop several times, checking in - the repairs were excellent .
PS: The Admiral thinks that I love this car more than her --- Hmmmmm 
 
Pleasant holidays to all of you here at MSW
 
Cheers,
 

So I’m stuck need to cut these ropes and can’t reach them.
Went to Google University and “searched for “long needle nose hobby scissors” --- Nope! Learned that they are called Embroidery Scissors haha ..
Most of you certainly already knew this.
 
OK they’ll get here in a couple of days. May start the mainmast organization at this point.
Oops starting to break stuff -OK – Now its time for The Vikings Season 5.
 
Regards,

 

Mates,
 
Thanks for likes - slight variation on the above technique. Looks a bit more realistic in terms of how rope is "actually" secured around itself - Added a knot - actually also easier to do than the above back side glue/cut/hide bit.
 
here are a couple of updated shots. Minor diff. but just a bit more realistic IMO.

Cheers,

Hi Mates,
Kevin, Don, Denis -  super nice thanks
Here is my technique for making the pin rope coils. Each one takes me about 15 or so minutes. Photos go through each step and are in order.
As always thanks so much for the likes and posts.
Regards,

 

Hi Mates,
 
 Dave: so kind thanks !
 Denis: Yes that basket needs some help – it’s on my list of fixes – happily that list is getting very short.
 EJ: Thanks so much. One of the great advantages of MSW is learning from other builders. My skills since I joined could only have gotten better by also emulating other builder’s log ideas/techniques for this current effort as well as sage advice from member posts. I’m happy that my work on the sails might prove helpful to you as well.
 Frank: as always (;-)
 Went to see how the ship case wooden base is coming along –so far very happy with the look. It should be ready sometime next week. Then need to figure out how to “set” the ship.
 ============================
 Just barely starting the foremast rigging with pins.
 Thanks for the likes as well – so appreciated.
 
Cheers,

Martyn – much appreciated thanks so much,
 
JanV: Thanks for still following along. Appreciate the compliment as well. Yes, you have been very busy with your house – well worth closing the shipyard for a while.
 
Update NO – but a badly avoided major issue. I share the fix in case others may end up with this problem….and could prevent the possibility beforehand.
 
Was finishing up the bowsprit area rigging details and sort of noticed over the last couple of weeks or so that the bowsprit platform was well “not looking right” wiggling a bit as well – then decided to pay it some real attention.
 
Curses here was the problem! (with the entire section on the verge of collapsing as well). Those of you kind enough to follow and also read along might remember that I had mentioned snapping the flagstaff mast twice. Well that problem was not limited to just that tiny mast.
 

 
The brass wire certainly saved the entire section from collapsing.
 
So the fix:
 
Disconnected those six futtock shrouds as well as that block
 
Slivered in lots of glue into the open gashes,
 
Used forward pressure with other hand to close the wound, re-adjusted the platform - then impaled a drill bit through both masts.
 
Kept adding drill bit depth into the masts by re-adjusting the bit bite on the Dremel – to the point where the drill bit was almost totally inserted.
 
Drill bit stayed there – then used locking tweezers to secure the mess and let the glue cure.
 

 
Added bits of wood to add substantive filler within the gaps – also hoping to add rigidity.
 

 
Then went to another area of the house carrying an empty glass that needed filling (it was Sat night J) and let this wound close up overnight.
 

 
Today: snapped off the end of the drill bit, Dremeled the left over shard.
 
Decided to add a camouflage to the scars, it got really fixed but post-surgery was ugly (:-) and there were unacceptable visible gaps. The slivers of wood do hide the fix, even though not correct.
 
     A                                                            
 

Still following your build and can still not believe you are building the same kit as I am building. This looks like a scale 1:50 instead of the 1:75 of Corel
I am saving some pictures for when I am at that stage. At this moment my build is on hold due to renovation of our house.
 

Still following your build and can still not believe you are building the same kit as I am building. This looks like a scale 1:50 instead of the 1:75 of Corel
I am saving some pictures for when I am at that stage. At this moment my build is on hold due to renovation of our house.
 

Still following your build and can still not believe you are building the same kit as I am building. This looks like a scale 1:50 instead of the 1:75 of Corel
I am saving some pictures for when I am at that stage. At this moment my build is on hold due to renovation of our house.
 

Hi Mates,
 Thanks for your very kind thoughts and likes.
 Section work in progress update:
 
 Moving to the foremast area. This area having so many more shrouds and ropes in areas that are harder to access behind the ratlines has resulted in needing a few more stress “time outs” 
 Also working from three diff. plan sheets that show specific (and diff.) pin and rope attaching locations has increased the workload. Not a complaint = just an observation.
 
Also when I first installed the rails and drilled the pin holes on the upper railings (using Corel instructions way back when) that kit not having running rigging did NOT include the extra needed pinholes. Now needed to drill more rail holes behind ratlines. Will need the same fix when I reach the mainmast.
 
But it will all sort itself out  Here are a few in-progress updated views.
None of the lines have been fixed or adjusted – just sorting out where they "should" go.
 
Regards,

 

Denis,
 
Yes it’s a good technique. It also adds temporary tension to a line with just the pin holding in place allowing for later re-adjusting the lines as needed.
 
Then cutting the extra and adding the coiled rope covers seems to work very well.
 
=======================
 
Also for making coiled ropes:
 
Using painter’s trim tape coil the rope.
Add a film of CA Gel
This will “lock” the spooled coil. And the gel will not bleed through to what will serve as the topside of the coil.
 
I then used small beads of Gorilla wood glue to secure the coil in place on the deck.
 
Had I thought of this much earlier I would have tried to coil all of the canon ropes. Though those ropes are super small almost like thick thread. Hmmm
 
 

 
Almost fished with this section - Last night started the three foremast sails- now that's a mess to figure out.
 
PS: Peter, I'm so happy that you know very little about Viking ships - what a personal relief (:-)))
 
Don Thanks !
 

 
 

Hi Mates,
 Minor update. Started locating all of the bow area pin locations.
 Now starting with securing most of the shrouds, a few will wait until I get to the foremast. These lines connect to the foresails as well as to the lower forestay rope.
 Need to be sure that no tension bends occur later.
 

 
Also started doing rope wraps for the pins. One at a time will take way too long – need to get some kind of mass assembly of sorts. I’ll search out of logs for ideas in the rigging section.
 
Need to determine visual spool lengths as some shrouds connect to furled sails, others not. Also need to do some coiled wraps on the deck. For that purpose, I’ve ordered double sided clear tape as one of the members suggested in his log.
 

 
Rotating the boat back and forth on that small table of mine – the side of the gallery hit the recess of the inside the deep double-glazed window frame – Grrrr fix came out OK.
Moved the small table a bit away from the window ledge.
 

 
 
 
As always, thanks for your comments and likes.
 
Regards,
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Installed the mizzen yards and the last furled sail.
 Well, I do believe that all rigging has mostly been attached, except for a few upper mizzen sail lines, and other bits.
 =================
 An observation: I had initially a lot of doubts about adding sails. In retrospect happy that I took the leap. That said, the sails added (I’m estimating) probably 60% more required rigging than if I had just hung the yardarms without any sails at all.
 
Though as I had mentioned earlier – much appreciated the learning experience this provided.
 Now will start at the bowsprit attach, and pin locate all of the 100s of ropes leading through to the stern.
 
Steven Thanks so much for your kind compliment, remarks, AND for your link. Excellent indeed.
 
 Here are a few updated pics.
 
Cheers,

 
 

Peter,
 
Thanks, as always for your superlative level of knowledge regarding the Vasa and its mysteries. I very much appreciate your information.
I did find another photo of the Norske løve.
 
Made a couple of notations. Thanks for the thought, and the link. Very interesting that you “got one” over on Fred –
And indeed the rigging is very similar to Vasa.
===================================

 
Minor update; getting the mizzen sail and its two yards ready for mounting. Here are a few updated shots along with comments.
 
Yes, nearly done – thanks so much for your very nice compliment as well.
 
Cheers,

 

Peter, Ha ha No I won’t read that book it will become a “Nightmare from Stockholm Street” . My thoughts today anyway
 
Having spent 1000+ hours (I think) really trying, to the best of my skill set, accurately add details to this effort, the last thing I need is to be read about so many other things that are also “not right”, when VASA II becomes available.
 
That said IT WILL BE an invaluable source for future Vasa builders – assuming, of course, that they don’t purchase the Corel example as a base kit.
 
SMALL UPDATE:
 
Turns out that there was no choice. I had to remove the mizzen stay shroud because the mouse was choking the mast. As I was moving towards installing the mizzen yard, it became clear that there would be no room for the yard rope through that block.
 
So decided to also remove that huge triple block at the base of the lower main. And just fix all those issues.
 
I did serve the ropes – like the look, and all the other stays had been served. Accuracy or not – will no longer really, at this point, stress over this anymore; now onto attaching the mizzen yards, and the lower sail - I’m already seeing several rigging differences for the lower mizzen sail depending on where I look for help. Oh well…..
 
=======================
 
PS: Yes Peter the Oseberg Viking long boat is next. Just wood!  What a relief that will be -- ha ha….And still THANKS again for pointing out those block issues 
 
 
Cheers,
 
Here were the issues and the fixes;

 
 

Peter, Dave: Thanks appreciated. I have decided to do something about the "problem" that I have with those two blocks. I'll update when I have a plan.
 
Hubac: Very kind of you to follow along. Your work is indeed very impressive.
 
Here is the answer to your question.
MORE than you probably ever wanted to know 
 
VASA II will be the companion to the first book.
 
Here I copied and pasted from the Vasa specific forum Fred Hocker's information; for us Vasa builders it has been so frustrating waiting for this "bible" of the ship's rigging.
 

 
=================================================
Since everyone wants to know, I thought I would start a thread here for status updates on the Vasa rigging volume (Vasa II). PS: thread is from 2014
 
Part 1 – The archaeological evidence (Hocker)
The first part of the book presents and analyzes the find material from Vasa which is relevant to the understanding of how the ship was rigged and sailed. Chapters are organized by functional groups and vary in length, depending on the amount of find material. In each chapter, the relevant finds are described and illustrated in sufficient detail to allow useful conclusions to be drawn. Due to the number of finds and the fact that many of them were made on a production basis in specialized workshops, it is not necessary to present every object individually – readers are referred to the Vasa Museum’s online finds database for such information.

Chapter 2: Hull, including construction (Hocker)
This covers the fixed part of the rigging material which was part of the ship’s structure or fastened permanently to it:
1. Mast steps and partners
2. Chainwales
3. Bitts
4. Catheads and fish davit
5. Fixed sheaves in bulwarks, chesstree, etc.
6. Belaying devices (kevels, pinrails, etc.)
7. Ironwork

Chapter 3: Spars (Hocker, Nilsson)
Spars are the masts and yards, the wooden poles which carry the sails and allow them to be adjusted to meet the wind at an optimum angle and transfer the wind’s energy to the ship.
Chapter 4: Tops (Hocker)

Tops are the round platforms at the heads of the masts which provide working space for handling the rigging as well as sharpshooter positions in battle.

Chapter 5: Tackle (Howe, Lindblom, Hocker) 
Tackle is all of the movable wooden and metal parts of the rigging which connect the sails to the spars and the hull and allow them to be raised, lowered and controlled
1. Deadeyes (Lindblom)
2. Blocks (Howe)
3. Parrels (Hocker)
4. Euphroes (Hocker)
5. Fairleads (Hocker)
6. Other (Hocker)

Chapter 6: Rope (Magnus, Seeberg, Hocker)
The rope represents one of the groundbreaking studies in this volume. It is a common find on archaeological sites but rarely presented or studied in detail, so this chapter receives special emphasis and extra material on the materials and manufacturing processes.

Chapter 7: Sails (Bartoš, Bengtsson)
The sails are the most unusual find among all of the artefacts found with Vasa, and so this chapter is also given extra weight. 

Chapter 8: Capstans and windlass (Donohue)
Capstans are the human-powered machines mounted on the deck, which make it possible to lift the heavy weights of the anchors and sails.

Chapter 9: Steering (Hocker)
Vasa preserves the only known complete example of the whipstaff steering system, the most common form of steering gear on large ships from the late Middle Ages until about 1700. 

Chapter 10: Anchors (Hocker, Ward)
Anchors are essential for operation of the ship, and all parts of the anchoring system survive, including anchors, stocks, buoys and cables. 
Chapter 11: Navigation equipment (Hocker, Pipping)
The navigation equipment (compasses,timekeeping devices, sounding leads, etc.) is included in this volume as it is essential to sailing the ship.

Chapter 12: Reconstructing Vasa’s rig (Hocker, Pipping, Stolt)
This chapter synthesizes all of the archaeological evidence and comparative material in a reconstruction of the rigging of Vasa.

Part 2 – Rigging and Sailing Vasa (Pipping)

The second part takes the archaeological data as the departure point for a more wide-ranging contextual examination of the rigging and sailing of a large ship such as Vasa. Where the first part focused more on objects, this part focuses on process and meaning to explore the relevance of this find to larger questions of ergonomics and organisation, resource utilization, and operational implications.

Chapter 13: Ship performance and the sailing environment of the Baltic Sea
The geographic and climatological context is examined, as are the operational environment and the strategic limits within which the ship functioned. The essential parameters of the ship’s performance, such as speed, stability and weatherliness, are discussed in order to establish how well the ship was suited to its likely sailing routes and conditions. 

Chapter 14: Money, materials and men (Hocker)
This chapter concentrates on the administrative framework for outfitting Swedish naval vessels and the resource base from which the raw material were drawn, as well as the organization of the processes of producing rigging and assembling it into a functioning rig. It addresses the economic, environmental and social factors influencing the production of sails, rope and tackle. It makes use of the historical documents relating to the operation of the Stockholm navy yard, where the ship was rigged and fitted out, as well as the remains of the ship itself.

Chapter 15: Rigging the ship
The process of rigging, starting with a bare hull and progressing to a fully outfitted ship ready to sail, is followed in detail, with attention on the manpower requirements, the organizational challenges, and the technical limitations imposed by the particular materials and methods used.
Chapter 16: Sailing the ship

The chapter opens with an analysis of crew organization and Vasa’s one, brief sailing passage for what they say about the ship’s performance and the level of competence of the crew. The rest of the chapter follows a typical passage across the Baltic, based on the sequence of sailing orders recorded for the Swedish navy in the 17th century. It presents the different maneuvers which the ship was expected to perform and how they should have been carried out. The ergonomic requirements are analyzed, and the ship is placed in the context of what is known about Baltic sailing in the 17th century.

Chapter 17: Sailing a modern reconstruction (Morgens and Litcofsky)
Trials made using the modern reconstruction Kalmar Nyckel both confirmed certain hypotheses about the how this rig functioned and raised new questions about the nature of the evidence used to study 17th-century seamanship. The relevance of Kalmar Nyckel for the study of how Vasa sailed is studied, as are the basic limitations of experimental archaeology.

Chapter 18: Conclusions (Pipping and Hocker)
 
 

Peter,
 
Thanks for the detailed info. much appreciated. I have extensively followed photos Clayton's build, and in fact noticed this as well. Then looking over several photos of the 1/10th ended up not sure either way. Looking at the 1/1, however it does seem to indicate a rather small opening into the upper gun deck for the ramshead pulley to attach to the knight. When I cut that part from the weather deck I was using Corel's info re: the size of the opening. And not being well informed seeing the foremast rams offset I just followed suit for the main.
 
Now regarding re-positioning that mizzen stay section that is attached to the lower part of the main -- well too late for any changes. I don't dare fiddle with pulling out those two small brass cleats in order to slightly offset the stay from center. I will repaint those poor looking knights ha ha
 
I very much appreciate your information and your super nice comment, as well - Thanks indeed
 
Cheers,

All you readers might have noticed this build is not really updated every week (or so). This is because I am very busy on creating the third model in my range of Dutch 17th century ships. This time I am building quite a big one:  De Zeven Provinciën from 1665 - the flagship of Michiel Adriaansz. de Ruyter.
 
I hope to start a build log on this one within short time, but as the plan is to launch her as a model kit end of this year (short before Christmas) this might take some more time. I am very occupied in finishing the model and preparing the box and her contents.
 
A few pictures to give some more information:

More info on http://kolderstok.com/zevenprovincien.en.html

Hi Mates,
 
Martyn thanks for your always nice comments.
 
====================
 
Continuing now with ropes for the main lower sail, well the sheaves that I had fashioned back when – well ropes would not spool through the backsides. Tried drilling through on each side of the pulley – Nope –did not work.
 
Removed the sheaves (more taking parts off – for repairs ha ha).  As can be seen – again not thinking ahead – did not allow for enough spacing for the ropes to travel through and around the back sides before the installations.
 
Easy fix Drilled larger holes – now ok.–
 
BUT museum rigging plan sheet – totally missed that, before attaching the ratline shrouds.
 
Not venting just sharing –
 
Cheers,

Henry – Thanks so much for your suggestion! – indeed that technique was working, and would have been the perfect solution. Had it not been for  another miss-step on my part.
 
When I pulled the rams head block tight, to attach the second loop for the yard, it butted and interfered with the mizzenmast stay large block. The fixed slack that I had pre-determined was in error.
 
SO did need to try to remove the knightshead.
 
The flat back of tweezers allowed for a slight “snap” of sound tugging against the deck frame opening and the knights head itself. Then wiggling those pliers released that wood bit.
 
Its base and vertical “pin” along with that brass ring did not budge, but stayed in place attached to the upper gun deck. Reached in and cut the attached rope.
 
Now - looking at that knighsthead and how “poor” it is. I will just re-do that part entirely, also fashion better working “sheaves”. Proxxon will help.
 
=========================
 
Main lower yard is in place, working on that “functioning” parrels bit. Then after fixing “the problem” adjusting the ropes wont be an issue. The length the lower yard rope is “fixed” correctly so that ramshead will secure below the mizzen stay block.
 
Glad that it was not worse (:-) slight delay for the two mizzen yards. Its sail that will also be completely furled.
 
Patrick; Yes – noted - Google “AI” will hopefully never be used at the United Nations ha ha.
 
Again Mates thanks so much for your always kind help, likes, and visits.
 
Cheers,

Mates,
 
Thanks so much for the likes----
 
Patrick This is the root of the problem.
 
When I installed this triple block to its upper gun deck knighsthead and base along with spooling the ropes; I then secured and knotted the end of the rope to a cleat on the side (now below deck - in a super tight space).
So now that I need to attach the mainmast yard rope, I have no way of adjusting the "slack" that will be left over after looping the rope through the block, 
through the mast sheave, then attach this rope to the other side of the yard. Lack of rigging foresight - though I at least new to pre-spool the rope through the block (;-)
 
I will try to remove (with pliers) that bit below deck. Though I remember attaching a rod through the gun deck and adding glue to the base - wanted to be sure that it would not "pull away" when yard rope was attached. Once removed I can unknot the rope - grrrr 
 
In the meantime I decided to also add  the look of "working" parrels to the lower mainmast. The yard and mast are very visible since all shrouds are further aft. So will add blocks and rope to the center parrel line.
 
Regards,

 

Hi Mates,
Working on trying to install the lower main. She is causing me a lot of "lack of foresight" headaches. I'll post an update with remarks after she's properly mounted- may be of help to others. It will work out - but with extra work. 
 
My intensions are to have the mounted sail appear similarly to the 1/10th's mount. Well sort of anyway ha ha ---
 
As always thanks for dropping by.

 

Hi Mates,
 
 B.E., Capt. Steve – (;-) hadn’t thought of that – thanks for posting. and your very nice compliments (:-)
Martyn, Dave – always so kind – thanks
Denis – thanks for your interesting thoughts. Yes plastic is a bit diff. I remember my very first Revell (the Constitution) – indeed lines were just glued to the yards – and everywhere else as well.
 
Regarding those added blocks to the grating frame; based on the 1/10th. Note there were initially three blocks, which became four in later 1/10th photos. That white circle was an earlier for “me” reminder.
Now which ropes should I attach – who knows. As I continue connecting lines and ropes as well as using diff. rigging plans – some lines will end up where they end up (last pic will be very helpful)
 
Moving on - attached the upper mizzen sail. Realized my error with that mast cap. Much too low; the platform is also attached too close to the mast tip.
I will also need to run a wire through the lower sail hem – in order to add a more presentable curve when all lines are buttoned down. Forgot before mounting the sail.
 
=====================
 
Now onto the lower main; that one (which is cut to full size scale) will be folded and raised about three quarters of the way up to its yard in a partial furl. Many builders do this. It’s a great idea indeed.
 
As always thanks so much for following along, just looking in, adding likes – and of course your posts, and suggestions.
 
Cheers,

Hi Mates
 
Minor detail update.
 
Worked out a "plan" to make the fore lower appear as if the parrels are "functional"
When all buttoned up it will be like this.
 
PS: Frank thanks for sharing - happy not to be the Lone Ranger.
 
Cheers,

 
 

Hi Mates,
 Martyn, – so very nice of you thanks -- overwhelming !!
 
Patrick, Denis, Frank –thanks for your comments so appreciated as well.
 
And mates thanks for hitting the likes – so nice of you to click your thoughts as well
 
Continuing with the lower main. So it’s furled and almost ready for attaching to the mast.
 
I was looking at Anderson regarding the parrels and decided to challenge myself for this and the lower main mast, coming up next.
I will run a center parrel rope (only on one side) to simulate it as a working item. Will run the rope through that small block and run it to the weather deck.
 
Where it should be attached is not clear. I may also add another set of blocks to the end of the rope as noted on Anderson’s drawing. Fiddle blocks  - no - just a couple of single blocks and then a cleat at the deck next to the mast.
Probably overkill – but since all of the lower sails are furled this might be a nice bit of extra work that I will be happy about.
Anderson writes that he has problems with this particular set up – but so it goes. Parrel ropes certainly needed to allow for adjustments as a mast was lowered given the increase in mast diameter as a yard was lowered.
 
PS: I have noticed a BIG mistake that I have been making using tarred rope to attach some blocks to yards and sails. That said I just want to stay consistent in my errors for these bits. Grrrr.
 
Now for the really hard part -- installing the yard 
 
Regards,