SkerryAmp

OK..........I'll start over with this last bit of my update......................................
 
with the panels nearly ready,   it was time to get the deck beams in place.   I could have gotten really creative with them,  but they are what they are......just beams.    using 1/4 x 1/4 square stock,  the required lengths were cut and notched to even them up to the decking strips,  going lengthwise from bow to stern.   I was not going to get fussy with them.
 

 

 
an additional beam was added to the bow section,  near rib #6.   I had a wild idea of cutting out the two areas of this rib {the two sides that border the opening to the pilot house},  leaving enough to constitute the bulwark posts,  in an effort to make the main deck look longer.   I may do that with one of the other hulls.....I just have to think up a more creative pilot house.   notice the opening for the pilot house......it is uneven........I have a solution for it,  you'll see.   the horns on both sides of the ribs,  needed to be sanded down to sit even with the deck beams..........sanding dust still can be seen.
 

 
the port side was cemented in first......followed with the starboard side.   there is a noticeable gap in the middle of the deck platform.  that's OK though.......filler can always used here.  Elmer and I are very good friends      for that opening to the pilot house,   I took one of the shavings from the deck beams and shimmed a board to go across........it is a bit raised and will serve well for the basis for a doorway stoop.
 

 
...and with the clamps and pins removed,  filler added and sanded,  the main deck platform is done at this point.   I am quite pleased with how the deck platform mates the bulwarks....very minor filling is required......I could even get away with using white glue.
 

 
I'll have to look into what to do with the bow section..........this hull seems to have it's direction already laid out for it.   I can plank the other hulls and decide whether to plank or paint the deck{s}.   I'll most likely plank.........seems to be how I roll 
 
 

Fitting Time!!!    the platform parts were cut from one of the sheets,  and the process for the main deck commenced.  there are two factors that are going to make this a bit tougher to do.......first is the curvature of the deck from bow to stern.   the second is the lack of pressure I can apply to the halves for the pictures.......this will make it look worse than it is.  but,  it is there........there will be some shaping that will need to be done.
 

 

 
I left the extra on the second half.....shaping is going to make the gap in the middle widen.......the extra will make up for it........the line you see is not the center line.   these parts are shaped,  bringing them as tight to the bulwark as possible.
 

 

 
........making sure that the line at the bow section is right up to the rib.   I'm not concerned with the stern end.......if required,  I can always cap it in.
 

 
just about ready to cement them in place!
 

I have been lax........after the hull dubbed Curly was done and some filler {there will be more,  I'm sure}, was applied,   I did some sanding........and WHEWWWW!   I like to have wore myself out!     it looks pretty good though......more needs to be done.....but I will digress for a bit.   I have Larry on the planking mat now, pretty close towards being done.   a while ago,  I showed you the parts panels for the deck platforms and how the arrangement of the parts created the opening in the center of the deck.   the reason for it and the laments over missing parts,  will not be an issue here. 
 
I found that I could use three of the 1/16 x 3 x 24 sheets for the platforms.
 

 

 
too bad that I couldn't find these in whole sheets.........these were cemented together.   soon,  I had the three sheets I would need.
 

 
the surfaces were sanded to smooth them out.   then the task of tracing the parts took place.   I'm not too keen on the bow parts,  but I traced them out anyway.   I'll get to them later.
 

 

 
this wasn't too tough a pill to take........they are all done now 
 

Thanks Adam.
 
  Cut, shaped, and painted the starboard side channels.  Pinned and glued into place.  Port pieces are sitting on deck waiting to be worked. 
 
  It's amazing how much dust the macro setting on the camera picks up.
 
                Bob R.

Danny, the ship  structure is amazing in and of itself but the finishing work! .   I can't even imagine ever having the patience and skill to do that kind of work.   Awe inspiring.   Such a pleasure to watch this ship come together.

Absolutely wonderful work Augie.  That planking is just a pleasure to look at.    Sorry the Broncs looked like they took my teams strategy for showing up to big games =(

Danny, the ship  structure is amazing in and of itself but the finishing work! .   I can't even imagine ever having the patience and skill to do that kind of work.   Awe inspiring.   Such a pleasure to watch this ship come together.

Thanks all.
 
Completed the gun port lids including the bridle port.  Time to start working on the channels and chainplates.
 
            Bob R.

Thanks all.  Anyway, I did not like the direction the instructions were taking me on installing the upper Gunport lids, so I jumped on the first plane to Boston to see how they were really installed.  Just kidding.  I happened to be in Boston in November and was treated to a after hours tour by MSW member popeyetosea.  I took the attached picture of the actual upper lid and modeled based on that.
 
      I painted the lids and installed the hinges, drill holes for the eyebolts using a #79 drill bit, and installed the eyebolts to the lid.  I then installed another eyebolt to the curtain and glued the lid in place.  From there I simply rigged with black thread and coated it with CA and paint to simulate the wire rope look.
 
 Bob R.
 
 

Working on Starboard side lower gun ports.  I have the curtains and lower lids installed.  Currently working on the upper lids for both the port and starboard side.  I also started staining my display stand. More pictures to follow.  I have a new camera so I am experimenting and learning.
 
 Bob R.

Added the curtains above the gun ports.  Started installing the lower gun port lids and upper gun port lids.  Final picture is as she stands at the moment.
 
           Bob R.

Drift Rails
 
The Drift Rails are the uppermost ones. I used dark Swiss Pear as they are a continuation of the Planksheers in the Waist :
 

 

 

 
They cut in over the Catheads :
 

 
  Danny

Standards
 
The Standards are small upside-down knees which support the Channels. They are 2" thick in real life, 1.06mm at 1:48 scale. There are three on each foremast channel, four on the main mast and two on each mizzen. These had to go on before the Drift Rails, which are intersected by the standards. I simulated the small bolts that hold them by using an awl :
 

 

 
  Danny

Yeah John, I'm full of them (it??? ).
 
Here are a couple of pics of the Channels fitted to the Port side :
 

 

 
 
Sheer Rails
 
The Channels intersect the Sheer Rails, which is why the channels had to be fitted first :
 

 
An unusual way to hold the end of the sheer rail whilst the glue dried - clamps were ineffective in this situation, so I've temporarily glued a piece of scrap to the end of the channel :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you very much John, Colin, Doris and Popeye .
 
Fitting the Channels perfectly horizontally was accomplished by the use of a couple of specially made "jigs" that sit on the planksheers from one side to the other. Masking tape and clamps hold the jigs firmly in position. The leg glued to the underneath of the horizontal member was measured at the inboard edge and cut square.
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thank you Marc and Duff - you're building a Vulture too? I can't seem to find a Build Log of her .
 
Here is the full set of Channels. Now I need to fit them to the hull and make some Standards for them.
 

 
  Danny

Hi all, back from my holidays again .
 
Channels
 
I've made the Foremast Channels and the Stools that are fitted just aft of them. They are tapered outboard from 4 1/2" to 2 3/4" (real size) on their bottom face. There are two swivelling ringbolts in each channel - they fit through a small plate on the underside which I made from thin brass shim material and blackened :
 

 

 

 

 
I've cut into the Sheer Strake for added support on the inboard edge. This is only a dry fit so far :
 

 

 
To align the slots for the Shrouds I rigged up a dummy mast and used a piece of thread to ensure they wouldn't foul the gunports and sweep ports. A molding will be added to cover the shrouds after they are fitted. The dummy mast is vertical, not on the angle it seems in the pic (the ship itself is tilted a bit ) :
 

 
  Danny

Chesstrees
 
The Chesstrees house a sheave that acts as a "lead" for the Main Tack before it enters the forward Fixed Block and then belays around the cleat. They are positioned just aft of the fixed block.
 
I made the two chesstrees from English Box, both as a color contrast and because of the thin section around the sheave which required a very close-grained timber to avoid splitting. The first one was a "character building exercise" - it took me about 2 1/2 hours to shape. The second one took about 10 minutes .
 
The (working) sheaves are 2.65mm in diameter and 1mm thick :
 

 

 
The second chesstree ready to cut off the piece of stock - after taking this pic I prepared everything (molding on the outer face, sheave hole and "bolts") for this one before cutting it off :
 

 
The Main Tacks are quite large - 5 1/2" in circumference, the scale equivalent being 0.9mm diameter. I threaded some line through both the chesstree and the fixed block to make sure I'd made the slots large enough to pass the line through :

 

 
I made two mistakes (which will remain) on the first one - anyone spot them ?
 
  Danny

Thanks for the tip Mark, but it would have to be a VERY small chess set - the Crown is only 4mm high .
 
Pilasters
 
The final pieces of this jigsaw puzzle - the Pilasters. The first pieces I made were the Bases and Capitals. These were cut from a length of molded English Box :
 

 
The Columns were done in similar fashion, from long lengths of molded stock :
 

 
Some pics of the finished assembly ready for a coat of Minwax :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks for the comments Christian, Remco, John. Grant, Toni, Mark, Joe and Ben. Also all those who "Liked" the post. Much appreciated .
 
Carving the Finishing and Glazing Lights
 
Mark, as per your request - the carving on the Lower Finishing :
 

 

 
I won't be doing any of the "fancy" carving for quite a while yet if I do any of it at all, I'm still undecided - I don't have the tools, and my skills don't extend to the "artistic" type carving yet. Perhaps I can persuade Janos to make a few for me (hint, hint Janos ).
 
I've also "glazed" the Lights with Acrylic (Perspex) and made and fitted the frames and munions. The curved frame in the central light was done by soaking and bending the strip :
 

 
Almost finished with this very enjoyable project. Just four Pilasters to make.
 
  Danny

But wait John .... there's more .
 
Lower Finishing
 
The Lower Finishing is done in three sections - upper and lower sections divided by the Lower Finishing Rail.
 
I first made the upper piece, which is sanded inward on it's lower edge by about 25 degrees. I then cut the molding in.Then I made the rail and glued it to the bottom of the upper piece :
 

 
The lower piece was a bit harder to make, as I incorporated the Drop (the fancy round bit at the bottom). I carved a representation of three "leaves" into the drop :
 

 
The last bit was easy - glue the two assemblies to the bottom of the Quarter Badge :
 

 

 
Some carving still needs to be done to both upper and lower finishing pieces. This should be fairly easy with all parts fitted to the hull (I hope   ).
 
  Danny

Thank you Greg - no, the case made it to the bedroom but I DID turn on the workshop lights on my way past .
 
 
Garry ..... is that you ? Thanks Steve .
 
Thank you too John.
 
Upper Finishing
 
Work continues on the Quarter Badge. Here is the Upper Finishing under construction. I made it from English Box. The first step was to cut out the lower portion to fit around the bell :
 

 
Then I finessed the inner face to fit tight against the hull planking :
 

 
The outer face was sanded down to fit the curvature of the upper stool :
 

 
Then the upper section was cut on the scroll saw :
 

 
Finally it was rounded off. The flat section on the top will support a carving of a Crown, and the whole piece will be textured :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks Druxey, actually it was quite easy. The hardest parts were shaping the molding around the end return and the small notch above the rudder hinge. Cutting the bevel only took one go (I must be getting better at doing things like that "by eye" ).
 
Quarter Badge Stools and Munions
 
This looked like being quite a challenge, but thanks to the instructions and tips in TFFM they haven't been too difficult so far (I haven't got to the Carving part yet though   ). I'm only fitting a Badge to the Port side.
 
The first pieces to be made, which the success of the rest depend on, are the Upper and Lower Stools. These took some careful measuring and marking out to get the right angles. In fact, I had a failure with the lower stool - I didn't have enough angle from the vertical (12 degrees) the first time I glued it in and had to get the Isopropyl out and have a second go. No biggie .
 
I took the shape of the stools straight from the drawing in TFFM and cut two identical pieces. These need slightly different bevels on their inboard edges to keep the stools horizontal athwartships. Here is one stool ready for gluing in, the molding on the edge has already been scraped in :
 

 
To assist in gluing them to the correct angle I used masking tape :
 

 
The upper stool is quite a bit trickier to make than the lower one. It consists of three parts with a "bell" shaped piece in the middle. To make the centre piece I first cut out the lower portion from some thick stock, sanded the outer face to conform with the lower stool, then scraped the molding, and finally sanded the outer portion to shape on the disc sander :
 

 

 

 
The joints are cut at a 45 degree angle. I glued the three pieces together before bevelling the assembly :
 

 
To ensure both stools were perfectly parallel I used a piece of scrap with two bevels sanded into it as a spacer. The 2nd pic shows the spacer in use, but was only my 1st attempt before I realised I'd got the angle wrong :
 

 

 
Take two, after I got the angles right :
 

 
Last step to this stage, I've fitted the four Munions - more tricky angles, all done on the disc sander. The rough bit of cutting into the Sheer Strake above the bell will be covered by the Upper Finishing later on :
 

 
  Danny

Preparing Tuck Molding and Waist Rails
 
The Tuck Molding covers the join between the Lower Counter and the Hull Planking that meets it. I'm only fitting the Port side. The outer end of the molding needed shaping to return to the Wales. The inner face needed bevelling to match the angle of the Counter  :
 

 

 

 
The same molding scraper was used for both the tuck molding and the Waist Rail. There is a slight difference in the actual molding, but it wasn't enough to warrant making a new scraper (which is quite a job - I'm using the same scraper for most of my moldings, the difference can't really be seen by eye).
 
I've prepared a couple of strips of Waist Raiing, which won't be fitted until after the Quarter Badges are installed. The one on the left has it's molding scraped in ready for final trimming to width :
 

 
The Scraper :
 

 

 
  Danny

That's about the only way I can see it working too John.
 
Thanks for the comment Grant .
 
I'm going back through Volume 2 to make sure I haven't forgotten anything - I skipped a few steps every now and then as I thought it easier or better to do some things "out of sequence".
 
I've made and fitted the Upper Capstan Pawls, which are the same as those for the Lower Capstan detailed earlier in the build.
 

 
  Danny