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Dan Vadas

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About Dan Vadas

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  • Birthday 09/18/1953

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    Abermain NSW Australia

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  1. Thanks Ab, and I agree with your opinion of the kit. I've made a couple of other Halinskis and this one is by far the most detailed . Both the canopies fitted. I'll fit the doors near the end of the build as they can be easily knocked off in the open position (the hinges are "non-working") : The next section of skin fitted. These skins are REALLY tight - you have to be spot-on with the framing fairing as the piece wraps around from from top-left to top-right in one piece : I did a bit of plumbing in the transmission bay using brass wire painted (mostly) in-situ with artist's acrylics : Danny
  2. I thought it would be a good idea to fit the two canopies to protect the cabins from damage. I'm using the preformed canopies, but they still need quite a bit of work in cutting them. The kit actually supplies two sets of canopy braces as they are easily damaged when cutting and fitting them. I didn't need the 2nd ones : I glued the bracing to the canopies with PVA, let it set, and then wicked some Plastic Super Glue along the edges. Everything held very well : I'm displaying the model with opened doors to show as much interior detail as possible : This HUD took me over a day to make : The gunner's canopy fitted : Danny
  3. Thanks guys . Popeye - the inner skin is only on those sections where the interior is visible, The other sections only have the 1mm thick framing to glue to. Next we move to the forward landing gear bay : The next section of framing : Now I'm starting with the outer skins. The framing needs very careful fairing, as there is absolutely NO margin for error. Lots of dry fitting after shaping each skin was required : The joins between sections of skin have a separate joining joining strip which is glued to the inner face of the skin so they line up without a step. The laser-cut frames have a recess in them to allow for this strip. These also need to be carefully faired : Danny
  4. Regarding the "Sharpie" you are using for the planking edge colouring - see if you can get one of these. It is an Archival Ink pen available from most art supply stores, Officeworks or on-line which doesn't bleed into the timber like any other pen I've tried and is also waterproof, which won't smear when you apply PVA glue. Get the "Brush" size and use the side of the nib to apply the ink. Also - the end join between planks should also be "caulked". Danny
  5. The gunports don't actually line up with the waterline, each deck is slightly different. The height of the ports is actually determined by the sheer line of each deck. Adding port liners is a very good idea as they are actually used in real practise - after all the planking needs to be attached to something around the port . Click on THIS LINK to see how they look. Check out the following posts as well. Danny
  6. The transmission took a LOT of work - 3 days worth : Fitted to the fuselage : I've also fitted the inner wall to the rear cabin : Danny
  7. A Mini-Tutorial for those who came in late - How To Cut Circles. I made four of these from double-thickness. The pics should be self-explanatory, except to say that I used a "chopping" motion with the scalpel rather than dragging the blade : Danny
  8. That would be me . Unfortunately I completed the model just before I found MSW, so there is no build log for it (a few pics are in the Gallery - click the link in my signature), but I could give you some advice on building her. There are about a dozen build logs of the Corel Victory in the Quick-Find Index for Wooden Ship Kits (click this LINK) but none are marked as Finished. Danny
  9. This looks good . I haven't built a Fantom kit yet - How good is the design, printing, artwork and card quality compared to a Halinski kit? I might give this one serious consideration, I also like the lines and details. Danny
  10. In Edit mode place the cursor behind he last character you want showing in the post and hold down the Delete key. Danny
  11. Allow me to be the 3rd then - Welcome from a couple of hours North . Danny
  12. With the pilot's and gunner's cabins completed (for now) work moves to the rear compartment. I "glazed" the windows with some frosted plastic cut from laminating plastic, which is 0.07mm (70 microns) thick : Both the interior side walls are completed first : The left wall has the door cut out to display the interior : One of the bench seats. I used a jig to hold it for easier construction : Next the rear wall and ceiling needed to be made and attached before I could fit the seats : Finally, I started the upper framing : Danny
  13. You may be right OC, however "I was just following orders" . That's the orientation shown in the instructions : Danny
  14. Moving on to the gunner's cabin. More small bits - a couple of 2.5mm diameter knurled knobs : The gunsight : Parts fitted to gunner's cabin : The gunner's seat was a bit easier :

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