Elia

Frank - many thanks - this is really helpful - 1/16 in a few minutes is what I am looking for.  Preac takes around 10-20'. The two grits sounds like a nice feature, although I have been doing OK without it. 
 
Dupree - agreed that Jim Byrnes makes awesome tools, but so did Charlie Files at Preac.  Big thing I am sorting out is whether it is worth the $ to upgrade a tool that works mostly adequately. 
 
My wife is talking about getting back into her doll houses, which will up the amount of milling I need to do, and sounds like I can justify the new machine.  I like milling the wood, but time spent passing pieces of wood through the sander is time not spent actually building the model.
 
Just saw that the Byrnes website is closed to new orders until January 1.  Will probably go ahead and order when they reopen, and will post the difference between the two machines in case I'm not the only one still using an old Preac machine.
 
Happy holidays!
 
Dave

I finished the deck, well about 90%, and not a time too son. Looking at my log, I started this kit in Nov 2014, but I logged only 227 hours so far. Can't wait until retirement   . Anyway, here a few pics, I will start the masts and rigging next; with a bit of luck, I might be done this Summer...



The seizing on that bowsprit drove me nuts, and it shows. By the time I finished, I was able to do some decent seizing, but i did not feel like going back and redo them all, especially  becaue I had redone most of them already once...





 

Thanks CH, Gary, David, Hubac's Historian, Buck, Mark and all those who hit the like button.
 
I know the hunk of metal looked strange so here's the result of a lot of filing...cleats(the [ shape was so they curve slightly up). The point also make for an easier install.

 
Added to those are snatch cleats and the eyebolt to finish out the tie downs on the rails.

 
Thanks for everyone's support and encouragement..onward!

Beautiful

Years ago I used the thin silkspan to create furled sails on my Oneida model following the furled sails article by Professor Tilley. I 'painted' the basic silkspan, stretched over a picture frame support, with a combination of diluted PVA glue, water, and acrylic paint, let it dry, and then cut the stiff sail material to size and attached the ropes. When rewetted it became surprisingly rubbery and very easily was folded and 'crumpled' into a furled sail (make sure you have the yard or spar near by lest you furl in into a shape not aligned to the spar). I had some challenges with bolt ropes staying adhered, along with clews and such trying to pull free of the sails, though once the rubbery, furled sails dried - they were quit stiff and solid. I learned later that the combination of acrylic paint and the PVA glue were somewhat incompatible (in terms of sticking to each other) and that would have been the cause of some of my challenges....though the finished sails looked reasonable to me.
 
Elia

Thanks CaptainSteve, Buck and everyone for beating that like button like a redhead step child, or me.
 
Buck, if I've left any doubt over my sanity, this should remove it. So these cut rings are slid onto a metal rod slightly smaller than the ring. Then I hold it like this...

 
I then gently use my grinding wheel to thin the ring. It takes a very light touch to get the ring spinning. I grind it to desired thickness(.015 in) while keeping the rod around 1:00 and the disk around 2:00. Only my nail is touched by the ring to make as little friction as possible. Then I drop the rod and grinding wheel almost horizontal. Again, gently, oh sooo gently, make contact with the ring and flow in a half circle. Easy huh? Until you get cocky and burn a hole through your nail. Once again, I got to talk like a sailor!

 
Anyone want to guess what this is going to be?

Years ago I used the thin silkspan to create furled sails on my Oneida model following the furled sails article by Professor Tilley. I 'painted' the basic silkspan, stretched over a picture frame support, with a combination of diluted PVA glue, water, and acrylic paint, let it dry, and then cut the stiff sail material to size and attached the ropes. When rewetted it became surprisingly rubbery and very easily was folded and 'crumpled' into a furled sail (make sure you have the yard or spar near by lest you furl in into a shape not aligned to the spar). I had some challenges with bolt ropes staying adhered, along with clews and such trying to pull free of the sails, though once the rubbery, furled sails dried - they were quit stiff and solid. I learned later that the combination of acrylic paint and the PVA glue were somewhat incompatible (in terms of sticking to each other) and that would have been the cause of some of my challenges....though the finished sails looked reasonable to me.
 
Elia

The rudder is installed!
 
My second attempt at building pintles and gudgeons went much more smoothly, and the rudder is now fully installed.
 
The first attempt (a couple weeks ago) failed because as I was gluing the gudgeons onto the sternpost, I wasn't able to get them lined up precisely enough.  The pins on the pintles and the holes on the gudgeons are very small (about the size of a #64 bit), so if they are off even a little bit, it is impossible to hang the rudder.  That previous attempt ended with pulling the pintles and gudgeons off (scrapping them), and having to repair the paint on both the rudder and hull.
 
So...the second attempt...
 
This time I focused on getting the brass strips sized perfectly for each spot first.  (On the first round, I just made all 6 pieces, then bent them to shape during install.)  To do this, I measured the thickness of the rudder and sternpost at each location, and transferred that size to a piece of wood.  From the plans I transferred the length of the bands on either side to the wood, which gives me a total length for each strip.  Next I cut 6 brass strips that were each longer than required.  I used the extra length to glue the strips down to the board with CA glue.  
 
Gluing them down holds them in place while I drill the holes for the bolts.  I marked the locations for the holes on the wood, and got to drilling.  I used a Proxxon drill press with a compound X/Y table to do the holes.
 

 
After the holes were drilled, I scored the strips to mark where they needed to be bent and cut.  One by one I removed them from the board, cut them to length, and bent them to match their place on the ship.  Since each piece is for a specific spot, I made a simple jig to store them so I wouldn't mix them up.
 

 
With the strips shaped and sized, the next step is to attach brass rods and tubes.  On my first attempt, I tried to bend the strips into an angle, and attach the rod and tube on the inside.  This contributed to the alignment problems, since the angles of the bends were a little different on each piece.  This time around, I decided to mount the pins and tubes on the outside so I could keep the end of the brass strip flat.  I also decided to attach tubing on the pintles as well, and have the pins inside those tubes.  I was hoping that using tubing on both the pintles and gudgeons would help keep things lined up.
 
To compare the method I used on the first attempt to the second (top down view)...
 

 
After cutting some sections of tubing and rod, I got started soldering.  My soldering skills aren't great (this is only my second time soldering, and the first was my last attempt at the rudder a couple weeks ago).  Despite my lack of skill, I was able to get all the parts soldered together pretty easily.
 

 
I kept the pins really long to make the pintles easier to handle during painting.  I also build another small jig to keep track of the parts while I worked, with each pintle and gudgeon paired up.
 

 
The pieces were then all painted flat black.
 
So far, so good, but this is where everything started going wrong last time.  In my previous attempt, I glued all the pintles onto the rudder, then tried to glue all the gudgeons onto the stern post after marking their positions.  That didn't work.
 
This time, since my pieces are shaped already and have a pretty good grip on the wood, I'm going to tape them in place so I can get everything straightened out and lined up before I glue anything.  I added a little strip of tape below each gudgeon to keep it from sliding off the pin while I worked.
 

 
Of course if I want to glue these down, I would need to remove the pieces to apply the glue, and that will almost certainly result in the alignment getting off.  So I decided to rely on the bolts to hold the rudder in place (if that worked for the actual ship, it should work here, right?).
 
One by one, I used a small drill bit to drill into the holes on each part.  I drilled to about half the depth of the wood.  I then took a small piece of brass rod, brushed on some CA glue, and placed it into the hole, pushing it in as far as it would go.  This resulted in a little CA glue being squeezed between the wood and the strip.
 

 
Once all the pieces were attached, I removed the remaining tape and clipped the brass rods to be flush with the strips.  Then a quick test to see if the rudder turns...success!
 

 
I'm now done with the hull stuff, and I'll be able to move onto the deck structures.  Feels like a big milestone!
 
The last thing I need to do before starting in above the deck is to give the hull a quick once-over.  I need to do some filing/cleanup on the pintles and gudgeons, and touch up paint in a few spots.  (In the close-up of the rudder above, you can still see some of the damage from my first rudder attempt - I might go and and fill those in and touch up the paint.) Then I'll finally be ready to apply a clear top coat to the hull.
 
Hopefully by the end of the weekend I'm working on deck structures!
 
 
 

"Batten down the hatches!" Don't get to say that very often. Just thought I'd give a little update, midship hatches made and battened down.
 

 
I've never liked the looks of the ring bolts I've made in the past, so here's my new and improved method. I cut the rings from brass tube and the bolt out of copper wire. This way the rings are solid, not cut like the manufactured ones. The twist is buried so it's unseen.
 

Thanks for stopping by, Grant.  I sincerely appreciate your visit and comments.  Since I posted yesterday i found another picture that was taken showing the completion of the port foremast ratlines.  Hope you have a nice day.
Best,
Jerry

Hello Popeye..
Hope you are well.  My visit to the Ophthalmologist yesterday was a good one indeed.  She told me that everything is healing well and reduced the number of times for my eye drops and doesn't wan to see me for three weeks.  She also told me that at this time I can get a pair of the same type of glasses as you have.  I own a pair of  2.75 (used in the past) and that is very helpful for reading and computer work.  I don't need anything for distant vision and this surprised the doctor.  She told me that I'm one of about 5% who have had this type of operation that didn't become near sighted.  I really am lucky.
I began the rat lines today and found it easy to see with the magnifier and the reading glasses.. 
Here are some pictures I took since the last posting:
Best,
Jerry

Hello Popeye...
Your kind comments are very much appreciated.  My eyes do get tired after awhile since i have to do everything behind a magnifier so I usually work a few hours and then call it a day.  I have made some additional progress and am just about ready to step the main mast and begin the running rigging.  Here are some pictures which show where i'm at.
I hope you have a wonderful weekend.
Best,
Jerry

Hello Lawrence..
Yep, it feels great to be back in the shipyard and working away on the Bluenose.  My eyes seem to be able to stand the strain of the mini works although I lose focus from time to time.  The doctor told me that would happen for about three months and then the focal point will settle in so that i can get  a prescription for glasses.  But I really am having fun.  I was able to drive to the doctor's office on Tuesday and that was another marker because for several weeks I felt like a prisoner in home arrest.  Best regards to the admiral and hope to visit with you one of thee days on Skype.  
Best,
Jerry

Good morning, Dr. Per..
Thank you very much.  All seems to be going well now and the model is moving along.  More stays to do today and then comes the main mast.
Take care,
Best.
Jerry
 
P.S.  Some additional pictures to bring the photos up to date...
 
 

Hello again..
Just a short note to say that I was able to work with the tiny dead eyes and managed to complete the rigging of the foremast shrouds with their lanyards.  Have a great evening everyone and..
Best,
Jerry

Good morning everyone..
 
First I'd like to say hello to Dan...Thanks you for visiting my log and for your good wishes.  I hope you have much success with your Bluenose and enjoy the build as much as I am.  I look forward to watching your progress...
 
Dr. Per...So nice to hear from you again,  The Bluenose is popular indeed...and also a decent challenge.  At least that's what I'm experiencing.  Please call again..
 
Rick,,,I appreciate your visit and your very nice words.  Thank you so much for taking the time to write to my log.  I hope you have much success with your build and i'm very happy that my log may help you.  It's a pleasure to know that my efforts may pay off.
 
Bob... It's nice to meet new people so many thanks for stopping by and for your  nice comments.  Please come back again and watch me prod along toward the finish line.
 
As for progress, I have finished the foremast shroud dead eye attachments.  The next dead eye to be rigged is the 2.5mm one to be attached to the top mast shroud.  The fact of the matter is I can hardly see the darn thing, let alone rig it.  I hope my magnifiers will come through.  Here are a couple of pictures to illustrate what I'm ranting about.
 
Berst,
Jerry

Hello Everyone.
 
I gave it a good try today and I'm happy to say, I believe I'm back in business.  I attached some dead-eyes to the starboard foremast shrouds today and although it was very slow going it felt so good to be able to get something done.  I had to make the spacing jig and even though it it very tiny the magnifying lamp came through and I was able to get it done.  Here are some pictures that will bring my progress to date but most importantly show me that I can get some things done even very slowly.
Best,
Jerry

Hello Popeye and the rest of my friends at MSW.....
 
Once again I would like to thank everyone who expressed concern about my eye problem and to those who wished me good luck.  While I'm still not capable to work on my Bluenose I am able to see well enough to write this note and to post the pictures that I had accumulated before having my surgery; they represent my October work.   The recovery process continues well and the doctor estimates that my vision will be good enough to model build in about two more months.  I'm going to try and prove her wrong but we shall see.  (no pun intended.)
 
Here the pictures I have that were not posted yet.
 
I wish everyone a very happy weekend.
 
Best,
Jerry

Years ago I used the thin silkspan to create furled sails on my Oneida model following the furled sails article by Professor Tilley. I 'painted' the basic silkspan, stretched over a picture frame support, with a combination of diluted PVA glue, water, and acrylic paint, let it dry, and then cut the stiff sail material to size and attached the ropes. When rewetted it became surprisingly rubbery and very easily was folded and 'crumpled' into a furled sail (make sure you have the yard or spar near by lest you furl in into a shape not aligned to the spar). I had some challenges with bolt ropes staying adhered, along with clews and such trying to pull free of the sails, though once the rubbery, furled sails dried - they were quit stiff and solid. I learned later that the combination of acrylic paint and the PVA glue were somewhat incompatible (in terms of sticking to each other) and that would have been the cause of some of my challenges....though the finished sails looked reasonable to me.
 
Elia

Matt -
 
Very very nice detailing. I really like that boom buffer and the ship's wheel. You mention soldering it? The rim looks super - did you turn it on a lathe?
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Years ago I used the thin silkspan to create furled sails on my Oneida model following the furled sails article by Professor Tilley. I 'painted' the basic silkspan, stretched over a picture frame support, with a combination of diluted PVA glue, water, and acrylic paint, let it dry, and then cut the stiff sail material to size and attached the ropes. When rewetted it became surprisingly rubbery and very easily was folded and 'crumpled' into a furled sail (make sure you have the yard or spar near by lest you furl in into a shape not aligned to the spar). I had some challenges with bolt ropes staying adhered, along with clews and such trying to pull free of the sails, though once the rubbery, furled sails dried - they were quit stiff and solid. I learned later that the combination of acrylic paint and the PVA glue were somewhat incompatible (in terms of sticking to each other) and that would have been the cause of some of my challenges....though the finished sails looked reasonable to me.
 
Elia

Matt -
 
Very very nice detailing. I really like that boom buffer and the ship's wheel. You mention soldering it? The rim looks super - did you turn it on a lathe?
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Years ago I used the thin silkspan to create furled sails on my Oneida model following the furled sails article by Professor Tilley. I 'painted' the basic silkspan, stretched over a picture frame support, with a combination of diluted PVA glue, water, and acrylic paint, let it dry, and then cut the stiff sail material to size and attached the ropes. When rewetted it became surprisingly rubbery and very easily was folded and 'crumpled' into a furled sail (make sure you have the yard or spar near by lest you furl in into a shape not aligned to the spar). I had some challenges with bolt ropes staying adhered, along with clews and such trying to pull free of the sails, though once the rubbery, furled sails dried - they were quit stiff and solid. I learned later that the combination of acrylic paint and the PVA glue were somewhat incompatible (in terms of sticking to each other) and that would have been the cause of some of my challenges....though the finished sails looked reasonable to me.
 
Elia

Kleenex is an option because it can be split into layers and has better water retention properties than some tissues.
 
However Silkspan is the best option, it can be obtained in different weights, and works well when painted with diluted pva. It makes realistic sails particularly at smaller scales.
 
B.E.

Try SilkSpan.