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  • Birthday 06/20/1955

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  • Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
  • Interests
    Family, Fishing, Woodwork and Photography

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  1. Allan, I use 'Zapon' Lacquer for my brass etc as it creates a solid good cover that does not yellow (It is the preferred product for gilding and the like) so may work? Eberhard (Wefalck) can provide the technical detail if you are interested - he recommended it to me. The other product I use, especially if working with paper, is an artist's spray on lacquer (I am currently trialling NUART - Matt Spray) which work well. Being an artist's product, I think it should be safe and long lasting when used it with paper and similar mediums (such as canvas etc)? cheers
  2. Thanks Druxey, that explains why it is safe and very convenient to add that detail now. cheers Pat
  3. Looking great Druxey, are you clear coating or painting the interior? If painting how do you protect the metal work if it not easily accessible? cheers Pat
  4. Allan, I had some good results printing to a good quality decal paper and applying to pre-painted wood, then sealing with non-yellowing varnish. Have to be careful with the varnish as some of the varnishes break down the decals as soon as it is applied (seems to be a decal paper type vs varnish combo which needs experimentation) . This is only if you are going for a 'frieze' effect, if going fore a carved/embossed look your paper based versions would be better. cheers Pat
  5. Shipman, I believe yvesvidal, is quite correct - they look like sacrificial anodes for 'cathodic protection'. Not unusual to see them on the ruder, and a whole string of them on the hull. cheers Pat
  6. Very nice job on painting the hull Ilhan; looks great! cheers Pat
  7. Keith, I am researching the studdingsail booms for Victoria at the moment. For ships of the era we are both interested in/building, the various authors all suggest that it was usual to have the swing booms fitted to the fore-end, and parallel with the fore-channel (not common to carry a lower studdingsail on the main). A crane (chesstree with a hinged metal bracket) was fitted on the hull near the end of the boom such that when swung in/aft, it securely held the boom parallel with, and out the same distance from the hull as, the channel. In Victoria, this is evident in the profile photo I
  8. And you call this slow progress? Very clean, beautifully detailed crisp work Druxey, and a tutorial on how to do it along with it. I for one am enjoying every post of this build. cheers Pat
  9. Wow Rob, what a great job, especially at the sizes you are working with - impressed. cheers Pat
  10. Greg, those are the 'naval pipes' (one each side) fitted with a bonnet (bent part) and a hand wheel operated guillotine (cable stopper/brake) . On deck will have been a blake slip for letting go the cable and a screw slip for use as a 'preventer' (I think I can see the screw slip on deck). The blake slip would have been fitted to engage with the cable on it forward sweep on the fore side of the capstan with the bottle screw slip further out near the hawse pipe/hole. cheers Pat
  11. Thanks for looking in and comments Keith and Rob; much appreciated. cheers Pat
  12. Thanks John. In the modern day that would be the Quartermaster - I think back then also; so it is in a convenient place without getting in the way. I placed the door of the binnacle to the rear as a form of spray protection; but if flipped around, the bell would be in an even better place cheers Pat
  13. Another small update; the watch bell has been added to the binnacle. This was turned by another club member; it is only a few millimetres in size (5 x 3 if I recall). This bell was called for in the Specification/Contract, in addition to the ship's bell, but only stated that it was to be in the vicinity of the helmsman. We thought this to be an appropriate place? The compass cover has not been glued down yet as we are think of making one from copper/brass. This is a white metal one that has been adapted and painted brass. cheers Pat
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