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SJSoane

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  1. Alan, I found the Steel tables online: you can see the pages for a 74, and the jib info at: https://maritime.org/doc/steel/tables/pages/031-ShipOf74Guns.htm Mark
  2. Alan, I found in Steele that the jib outhauler is 4.0" circumference or 1.27" diameter for a 74 gun ship (I find my notes, but I can't find again the original online...) Probably close enough to 1" at scale. Mark
  3. Last time, I built a foamcore box, lifted the rubber mould half-way up off the base by two cardboard legs, and then poured liquid plaster halfway up. The cardboard legs were then encased in the plaster. I then flipped and poured the other half. It worked great the first time a few years ago, but failed in my recent effort when the plaster set too fast to pour. So if I can only get wall repair plaster locally, it would work better to build it up like a broken bone cast, with soaked cheese cloth? I assume this is so I don't have to worry about it getting too thick too quickly to pour. Mark
  4. hi everyone, Alan, thanks for the image. It seems that there are three likely ways in which the breech rope deals with the button on the cascable; the one you have shown, the idea of a cut splice, and the one Siggi showed in the cross section model with it simply lying over the top. Once I start installing the cannon, I think I will make a final decision about which looks the best or makes the most sense. I can see the value of the plaster jacket now. As the moulds break in, they do not register as precisely as when they were new. I once used Hydrocal art plaster a few years ago and it worked well for this. But when I tried it again recently, it was very lumpy and it set up before I could pour. So I threw that away. My choices are more limited in my new little town, primarily plaster of paris for fixing drywall patches. Is there a reason why I need to order dental plaster for this jacket? Does the hardness matter? Mark
  5. Ah, druxey, I see that now. My failed plaster pointed me in another direction, but I may be back to this if I cannot get the pin idea to work. Mark
  6. Thanks, LH, this make sense. It sounds like you have a wealth of experience in this fascinating technology! Mark
  7. Hi LH, a quick question. Do I assume correctly that the pins should be as close as possible to the cannon shape in the mould? I have a feeling that the rubber stretches a tiny bit across its width, and so it wants to be anchored as close to the cannon shape as possible. Or is it normal practice to keep these pins at the outer edge of the mould box itself? I suppose the only danger is getting too close to the cannon shape, and risking a tear. Mark
  8. LH, that is a very good idea. I could clamp the master in the mould to position each side to the other, and drill through both. I'll try it on a reject mould and see how that works. Thanks! Mark
  9. Not much new to report; starting to work my way through 74. I have noticed, though, that I am sometimes having trouble with the registration of the two halves, leading to mal-formed cannon. The rubber moulds are no longer as sticky as they were when new. I think this allows them to slide around a little relative to each other. I have to be very careful to ensure that the mould sides are aligned when clamping them between the pieces of wood with rubber bands. We will see if the 32# and the 24# moulds are durable enough to cast 28 good cannon each... Mark
  10. Thank you, albert, Marc, Mike, Greg and druxey, for your words of support and encouragement. This cannon project seems to have been an exceptionally long time in development this winter, and I haven't even begun mass production. Your continuing support really helped keep me going when the project got a little bogged down at times. Thanks again to Chuck for providing those exceptional king's cyphers. They look great in the casting, and I concede that it was beyond my ability to create them after numerous failed efforts. I may still try photo-etching when the sun comes back this summer, just to see if it was a problem with using an incandescent bulb instead of the sun... Greg, I haven't seen the idea of a cutter; intriguing. Do you recall where you saw it? I am reworking the split collar for clamping the barrel in the lathe, because it is still not quite centering the drill. I will show experiments as I work on it. druxey, I last used Jax's Pewter blacking on earlier experiments, which seemed to work well. But I have noticed that some cannon treated this way a few years ago lost the blacking in a few places like edges on the face of the muzzle. Do you have thoughts about how to clean the barrels for Jax's to work better? And my Jax's is a few years old; do I need to get a fresh supply? Thanks again, everyone, Mark
  11. I picked up a cold on the plane back from our trip, which slowed me down the last week. But now better! I initially tried building a Plaster of Paris sleeve around my moulds, to stabilize them and pull the two halves together securely. But I had trouble pulling them tight with tape before pouring the plaster; for some reason, this time, the tape just would not secure tightly to the rubber. And then I used old plaster, which was so lumpy and needed breaking up that it began to harden before I could pour it into the boxes. I had to throw all of that away. Reading the Micro Mark instructions again (when in doubt, I keep telling myself, read the instructions), it suggested pressing the moulds halves between two pieces of wood. I initially tried that using clamps, but this distorted the mould and I cast an oval section gun. So then I tried holding them together with rubber bands (per the instructions), and this worked well. Here is the first cast: Once I cut off the gun head with a jeweler's saw, I clamped it in the lathe, using a chuck on the protruding end of the muzzle to center it, and then clamping it in a four jaw chuck using a split ring of wood. Then I could drill for the bore, and face the end. And the result: Needs a little filing to clean up the trunnions, but the process seems to work. Mark

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