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SJSoane

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  1. Thanks Landrotten Highlander and druxey, it definitely takes a village to build a ship model! I am grateful to everyone who helped with this confounding little detail of paint at the ports. Now the fun of planking! Mark
  2. I finally got things organized enough to stain the port sides and cills. This stain at the edges and top will be overlapped by planking, so it was not essential to keep a neat edge. But I thought that I might be staring at this for some time to come, since I am so slow in construction, and so I decided it would help my morale if it looked neat at this point. I therefore masked the edges with Tamiyo tape, leaving a little beyond the 3" that will be revealed by the planks. I also blocked out with paper, just in case I got messy. And then I used my normal red stain, wiping on with a cloth. Messing around with this dislodged my thread planking lines, making this look all ahoo. I need to clean this up before FINALLY beginning planking... Mark
  3. astonishing work at this scale! Do you have any photos of the project under construction? Mark
  4. thank you druxey, Greg, Mike and Jason for these very helpful ideas on this challenging detail. I think I am almost there; the final test is sanding sealer on the ends of the planks, then paint with the Floquil before installing the planks. I am not sure how my rub on poly finish will interact with the sanding sealer, so I need to check that out before I run into problems with the final finish on the outside of the planks. I finally took on a task that I have been avoiding for some time, trimming down the wales at the three aft-most ports to reveal the 3" port stops. It was very tedious, chopping into the wale material without damaging the face of the frames to which they had been glued. In hindsight, I might have trimmed these before installing, although the challenges of bending and clamping these pieces probably would have induced errors and shifted the cut line anyway. One side done, the other awaiting a time when I feel like tedious work... Mark
  5. hi druxey, That sounds like a great idea. I realize that I can paint the ends of the planks before installing, which should help with access to this difficult edge. And sanding sealer would be easy to apply at this point. What do you recommend for sanding sealer, with enamel paint coming over it? Mark
  6. Hi Jason, thanks so much. I see you did a very nice paint job on your HMS Snake; do you remember what paint you used, and how you did the edges of the planks? I am still open to ideas! Mark
  7. I discovered this morning that I had two old jars of Caboose Red, one was PolyScale acrylic, the other Floquil enamel. The PolyScale was too red, bu the Floquil was perfect. I tried 100% paint, and then diluted 50-50 with thinner. The diluted looked a little more like the stain, and this is what I tried on my mockup. But the paint ran a bit. I did manage to scrape and sand away the overflow, so it did not seem to get into the deeper grains as the stain does. So, I might be in business here. I may try undiluted paint, which I imagine will run less, but will be brighter next to the stain. Mark
  8. Beautiful CAD drawings, and beautiful craftsmanship on the stem so far! Did you do the sketch drawing of the crew? Mark
  9. hi druxey, Yes, I will try that. It looks good! I had a good day building a mock up of the ports, testing some construction and painting ideas. I made a little jig, with rabbets the size of the port stop, for drawing the stop edge on the frames, then using them to scribe the edge of the plank, and finally to align the plank edges together when gluing. It keeps a very even margin around the port. I use wedges to hold them firmly in place. I then tried masking off the stop edges with Tamiya tape, and staining with my usual red stain. A little bit of creep into the grain, as expected. Then I planked up the sides and top, using the jig. I have also modeled the wale, in this mock up, because this will be the most complicated paint intersection I have to worry about. The wale is black on the face and tops and bottoms, except at the port cill where it is also painted red on top. I need to study how all of this will work cleanly. And tomorrow, I will try druxey's method of painting the Floquil Caboose Red on the edges of the planks. We will see.... Mark
  10. Two steps forward, one back. I was ready to start planking today, then remembered that I need to resolve how to paint the red at the ports. The Admiralty Paints Red Ochre was way too orange to match the red on the Bellona second model. So am back to the idea that I can continue to stain red parts throughout the ship where I don't have to worry about creep along the grain; and then carefully paint the edge of the planking at the ports with acrylic paint to match the stain. I discovered that an old jar of Floquil Caboose Red is an almost perfect match to my stain, although obviously it is more opaque than the stain. But before trying this out on the hull itself, I have made a mock-up of a port, which I will use to test the stain + paint idea and see how it looks and works. I will also explore the idea of painting the edges of the planks just before I glue them in, saving problems with masking this thin edge. No wonder it takes me so long to move this model along... Mark
  11. While installing the hawse lining/planking pieces, I had occasion to look at the dimensions of the hawse holes. Both Steel and the Shipbuilder's Repository call for 1'-5" diameter holes, "after the pipes are let out". And they call for hawse lead pipes 1 ½" and 1 ¾" thick respectively. I notice that the hawse holes in both the first and second contemporary models seem a smaller diameter than 1'-5". In the models below, the distance between the cheeks is 2'-3", and you can see in the finished model that the hawse holes are about half the distance, or about 13". And the models don't show the hawse pipes, only a clean hole drilled through the bolster and the lining. So, could the models be showing the actual diameter of the hole with the pipes installed but not indicated, which would be 1'-1" for Steel (1'-5" minus 3" lead pipe thickness)? Interesting that they don't show the hawse pipe exposed to the outside. Surely the lead would run all the way out over the bolster, if it were there to protect from wear. Mark
  12. At last, sawdust created again. I decided on a modelmaking cheat at the bows. The actual construction has the black strake and all planking above running all the way into the rabbet at the stem. Later, a thin lining is added over this planking between the upper and lower cheeks, through which the hawse holes are eventually drilled. I decided to combine the planking and the hawse lining piece as one part, the thickness of the planking plus the lining. I would rather fit one piece to the bow, than one and then another on top of it. The black strake and one additional strake will butt into the aft end of this piece, and one will never see if they run under the lining or not. And instead of messing with the steamer for this short thick part--the two parts combined are as thick as the wales--I sawed these to the curve at the bow. A fun change from steaming. Only a few thin planks plus the thicker channel wales will remain to be bent around the bows. Mark
  13. The contemporary model and paintings clearly show the pin racks on the shrouds. Interesting! Any ideas of what belays to these, since the main lines according to Lees for the 1742 HMS Medway do not belay to anything called a pin or pin rail. There are some lines, like the yard tackle falls, that belay to a shroud--I wonder if that means a pin rack on a shroud? Mark
  14. Oh, good, thanks druxey. Nice to know you have seen this elsewhere, and it is not a contradiction between a Lavery drawing and the original Bellona sheer.

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