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Everything posted by herbgold
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My wife is out having her hair done this morning, so I thought I'd risk the family kettle. I'm pleased to report that the steam method works! (See attached - also admire the subtle engineering of the Steam Cutoff Lever Defeat Mechanism (world wide patents pending). Thank you, SpyGlass - I will continue the disassembly early next week.
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Yes, the green container labelled "Evo-Stik Wood Adhesive Interior". According to the safety sheet, the Evo-Stik Adhesive Cleaner contains: ACETONE10-30% CYCLOHEXANE<1% ETHYL ACETATE 10-30% HYDROCARBONS C6-C7 ISOALKANES, CYCLICS <5% N-HEXANE 30-60% NAPHTHA HYDRODESULFURIZED LIGHT, DEAROMATIZED; <0.1% BENZENE 10-30% NAPHTHA HYDROTREATED LIGHT, <0.1% BENZENE 10-30% N-HEXANE <1% I presume none of this is iso-propyl alcohol? Once again, thank you very much for your help - I can't get over how kind and helpful people on this site are!
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Well, very frustratingly, the solvent I've been waiting a week for doesn't do anything to loosen the glue. I'd been using Evo-Stik - "stronger than the wood itself" - which was probably a mistake. The only way I feel I can progress now is to sand back the sides of the strips as much as possible to attempt an "S" curve, and do some repairs at the bow and stern. At least port and starboard strips are level!
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Thank you both too, Mike and Martin. As I see it, there are two problems with what I have done: 1. Because I used the stern part of the jigsaw joint as a datum line as per the instructions, everything is too too far forward (and I think the strips are too long). Exhibit A shows that very clearly 2. What I hadn't noticed was that the strips should have a vertical curve (or S-curve, or "recurve") as well, My strips are completely missing that. Exhibit B. Perhaps these photos will be useful in a "how not to do it" practicum! Off shortly to buy some solvent, and will remove the strips and follow your advice.
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Thank you VERY much, SpyGlass - a complete practicum in how to attach those wretched gunports. I need to reread (and re-re-reread, probably) what you say, but I will do as you say and (1) take the strips off (2)soak and bend, soak and bend, soak and bend (3) line up as you suggest. I will need to come up with some repairs to the bow-most 1/2 inch or so of one of the strips, as it broke off as I was trying to force it. But I will worry about that later. Thank you again.
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Thank you, Martin, that's kind of you, but I think I will remove and re-fix that offending grating. I spent today fixing the gunport strips, which like many others here I found a hateful job. I think I have it more or less right - at least port and starboard are tolerably even. I did rather comprehensively mess up the bow, and will have to use filler, I think. Oh, and the 60 half-inch screws were the only means I could find of getting the strips to stay where I wanted them - everything else just pulled straight out of the bulkheads. P.S. Oh dear. It's amazing how much more one sees from a photo than from the real thing. The gunport strips, however admirably symmetrical port and starboard that they may be, are both about 1/4 inch too far forward, as can be seen from the unwelcome appearance of the edge of a bulkhead through the foremost gunport. Which explains a lot about the messed up bow. Sigh.
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Well, I'm modestly pleased with progress in the last couple of days. I've attached the gratings and made up and attached the capstan and the other deck furniture and fitted the beams for the upper decks. I'm now trying to find a way of pinning the upper decks in some non-permanent way without the @~*"! pins popping out. P.S. I've just noticed from the photo that the aft-most grating is rather badly skewed. It doesn't look so bad in real life. Honest.
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That would have been a good idea, SpyGlass, I wish I'd thought of that. But no, I had to do it the hard way - threw away the rubbish ply deck (after I'd planked it - badly! - made another deck from proper 1mm ply, planked it (somewhat better) with separate 3" strips of limewood, cut apertures for the gratings (badly)... that's where I am now. So in answer to your question - I will now have to fit the gratings on top of the planking with the apertures open. P.S. Sheet 6 - got it!
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Well, it's been a while since I was last here! I decided that my original gundeck planking was so bad (even my beloved said it wasn't very good, and she's usually very encouraging) that I've remade the whole thing on "proper" 1mm plywood and 1mm x 3mm lime strips. It still isn't great, but a lot better than my first attempt, after I put some tung oil on it. I've planked it with 3inch strips, which I was quite pleased about, but the ends of the strips don't quite line up. Photo attached - I haven't finished the cutouts yet. I haven't done treenails - beyond me. I have a question, learned brethren. I'm trying to work out the sequence of the rectangular cutouts on the main gun deck, from what seems like rather inadequate diagrams. As far as I can see, from bow to stern, it goes: 1. hatchway or grating??? 2. grating 3. grating 4. hatchway or grating??? I think 4 is a grating (and I'm not too bothered as it won't be very visible when it's covered over with the quarterdeck), but what is 1? I'll go away now, but not for so long, I hope.
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Thank you, Spyglass. It IS the "duff ply" and I will try to strengthen it. To me, the great advantage of planking the deck before I fit it into the hull is that I will be able to plank end-to-end and then cut through the hatchways etc from the underneath - just seems easier that way rather than having to measure carefully after fitting it.
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