eric

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I use the guterman stuff for bindings an seizings etc. Nice colors, but it needs ca-glue or some kind of paint to fixate the knots. Pva will not hold.
 
Is the unraveling the result of how the thread itself is laid (left in stead of right), or is it the result of the material itself?
I ask because when using it as serving-material the direction of the winding mattered.
 
Jan

Hello everyone, I am new here. I am also a jeweler, about 15 years now. Soldering silver and gold jewelry is something i have been doing long time. With silver for example you can't really do a pinpoint soldering. I mean you have to heat up surrounding areas of the spot you are trying to solder together. So I use a larger torch, slightly more oxidized versus gold soldering, where you can do pinpoint soldering. There are different types of solder out there. I stock easy, medium, and hard. For example I use medium and hard for soldering rings, and easy is used for soldering chains and smaller thinner objects that should not be heated too much. I never used the solder/flux mixter or paste. I use liquid flux. First make sure you clean the item you will solder in an ultrasonic machine if you have one, if not, then the least should be done is some concetrated cleaning solution and use an old toothbrush. Then dry and flush the item and a piece of solder. Place the solder belof the item and heat from the top or vice versa. Whichever way you like to do it.
 
But I have read the posts from others and I see everyone does it different. Its all up to you to find the best way that works for you when it comes to soldering. I am still learing things when it comes to that.
 
Its easy, with silver you pretty much have to heat the whole item or at least the majority of the surrounding areas. With gold just the spot you need to solder together.
 
Sorry if i overdid on this

Gulfmedic1,
 
   I use TransTint which I get from Rockler.  A Google search reveals other retail locations as well...even Amazon.  Pricey...2oz goes for about $20 but a little goes a long way.
 
   See the reds I ended up with on my 18th Century Longboat build log.  I'm not big on bright reds on a period model.

They can mix, but take care because of the volatility of alcohol, the paint may cure en-route from the spray gun to the surface, resulting in a chalky finish. Distilled water will slow the drying time, which may seem ok, but you'll need to keep the coats thin in order to avoid weeping.
 
Ultimately, water and alcohol or ammonia all have different specific gravities, and in large concentrations can break down the paint matrix all together. matching the paint's solvent with a thinner of the same substance is ultimately the most ideal route.
 
I know Model Expo paints, and they are almost as thick as peanut butter, but they hold up well using an ammonia based thinner, and can be stored for long periods of time thinned. The yellow ochre I used on my Pegasus build has been stored in a thinned state for over 6 months and has not shown any signs of breakdown or degradation. A quick stir, and we're back in business. I don't know if you could get away with that using water or alcohol.
 
Andy