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Chuck Seiler

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About Chuck Seiler

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    Grande Knave of Pizmire

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    : San Diego area
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    Shipmodeling, eh

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  1. Looking good! Will you pencil dot your nails later or leave them as they are?
  2. At this point I will change focus and move on to the deck. I had problems painting the cardboard deck planks and decided early on to substitute real wood. I used Alaskan Yellow Cedar from SYREN. Deck planks on a cog a different than we normally find on a ship. In this case they run athwartship. See above photo from SHIPYARD. They run in five bands; the center band, which is the same width as the hatch, and two bands on either side. On the model, the planks are represented with two layers of cardboard. First is a thin layer of cardboard used as a false deck (left) and another thin piece which is marked with plank lines and nails. This is painted. The instructions have you completing the stern section in its entirety and the outer bands first, then working your way in. I went the other way. Because the center section is based on the hatch and mast support, I dry fitted it and set the first plank fore and aft. In the above pic you see the basic process, except this was after the deck was fully completed. Once again, my original photo was out of focus. Here we see the hatch/mast support gap with planks fore and aft. I also started on the second bands with the planks 'overlapping' so the joints did not run straight across. The model planks vary in width, for some reason, but I chose to made them uniform (with a few exceptions). The deck beams had a lip that divided them so the planks sit nicely on the shoulder. I continued the deck beams fore and aft using cherry strips. Originally, the plan was to treat each plank with Wipe On Poly, then glue them in place. The placement was uneven so I ended up having to sand the deck down in total. I did worry about forming the edge planks too precisely. I ended sanding the edges smoothly. You can clearly see the hatch/mast support gap. Deck complete with mast support and hatch coaming in place. When I sanded the deck I was concerned it would remove the brown paint from the cardboard deck beams. As it turned out (I had discovered this earlier) the cardboard beams come out a nice brown when treated with Wipe On Poly. The original treating of individual planks, followed by the mass sanding had the effect of making the deck not uniform color. I like. One downside with using the wooden deck is that the cardboard deck had slots to be used when mounting future structures. I'll figure it out.
  3. Despite the lack of instruction, I soldiered (sailored) along. It really is not that big of a deal...stick with the reference lines and the next 2 or 3 strakes are easy. Construction proceeds with clinker strakes 3 and 4. Clinker 3 and 4 complete. They matched up with the stem and stern very nicely. I had issues with earlier strakes where they did not run the whole length. Here we see the bow (or is it the stern) where the strkes did not run the full length. If I had the presence of mind, I would have cut new planks from the cardboards stock at the time of installation. Instead I tried to fix with minor surgery after the fact (see picture strake C-3 and 4 above). If it were wood, I might have better result. My solution will be to put an HO scale girl in a bikini on the top deck to draw attention away from it. Next I make the stem, stern and keel assemblies. These are made by laminating several thick and thin cardboard pieces. Above are the various pieces to the stem. Stem piece, stern piece and keel installed. Clinker +6 and additional appendages.
  4. Agreed. The reference marks on the bow/stern are good, but questionable for the first set of planks. Once you know how correct they are, or how much off they are, you can plan accordingly. I like the reference lines on the stiffeners because that can bring you back into battery if you do manage to get off. Do your clinker planks have reference lines?
  5. "How funky" do you ask? By the time we get to the bottom of page 11, the instructions have us where you see us in the last photo above...3 non clinker strakes + 2 clinker strakes. Jump to the top of page 12 and the photo as +4 clinker strakes and we are adding the stem piece, stern piece and keel. Clare mentioned this in his log as well. This is not a real big deal once you figure out that you didn't skip a page...just a bit disconcerting. The planking process is pretty simple.
  6. At the 1999 NRG Conference in San Diego, I had the opportunity to speak with a bloke who wrote a book on flags. I wish I paid closer attention. IIRC he indicated there was no real standard for flags except the length (fly) of the battle ensign was the same as the molded breadth of the ship. For the next size, the fly was the same length as the hoist of the next larger size. ...or something like that.
  7. It's time to plank. I mentioned earlier, an error in placing the big stiffener would potentially cause problems. As we see, the first set of planking is set into a notch formed by the 2 ended arrow-head thing on the keel. Prior to planking, a false keel is placed so as to be the same thickness as the planking. When I test fitted the plank, I realized I installed the stiffener the wrong way. No worries...I installed the false keel correctly. In the above photo you can see the false keel and difference due to the stiffener being reversed. First planking started. The first plank assembly consists of one plank of the garboard strake, two of the broad strake and the entire third strake. Placing the single plank of the garboard is easy. Where do the ends of the third strake go? Ideally, I would use the tick mark reference lines on the bow and stern to place the plank, but since there may have been some error i placing those pieces, I was not sure. If incorrect there will be a gap in the planking. This pic is a little out of sequence...the original one was way out of focus. The plan was to install the garboard strake, then the broad and finally bring the floating wing into place. The resulting photo did not turn out so well, nor did the planking. Those wings flapping in the breeze kept getting in the way. . Plan B was to install the missing garboard and broad strake first (after carefully measuring where they should start, then install the assembly. This turned out much better. The clinker planking starts on strake 4. The planks are marked where the plank above it should go. As Clare pointed out, it is very important to be right on that line. Being off will affect how high the planking rides. The nail crew on this part of the hull were fired shortly after this picture was taken. Clinker planking begins. This picture looks familiar. Strakes 4 and 5 (clinker 1 and 2) complete. At this point the instructions get a little funky.
  8. I am jealous. I am about the same place but mine is crappy less good. Also, you are doing a better job of documenting.
  9. More work done on the model. Not so much on the log. I was going to spend some time on basic infrastructure, but I doubt that there is much interest, so I will launch into planking. But first, just LITTLE on infrastructure. Most of the ship consists of two different plies of cardboard; a rougher thick stock, about 1MM thick and a thinner, smoother stock at .5MM. Often these are laminated into thicker pieces. Deck beams are 3 x thick stock. Stem and stern pieces are 3 x thick + 2 x thin. The thin stock is used for painted areas but not all thin is painted. Painting should be practiced in order to get the right look. I defer to Clare's discussion on painting for process. Bottom line is that you paint the piece with a wash of #3 (kit comes with pain in numbered jars. As far as I can tell #3 is unbleached titanium) which serves as a primer. Let that dry for 24 hours. Next, paint with your primary color, using a watered down mixture. This ensures it is not too thick and that you can see the reference marks/nails on the piece. 24 hours later you paint again using a wash of a different color, designed to simulate wood grain. I did not need to do this since my initial wash did that fine. The instructions have you mixing the paints at different proportions to achieve the right color. I was a little confused at first. For the primary color, mix #15,29 and 30 in proportions 6:0,25:0,5....huh?🤪 I guess in some places they use commas like decimal points, so the proportion is 6: 0.25: .5 ... or 24:1:2. ...or as close as you can get. I had alot of thoughts on painting, but too boring. If interested, let me know.
  10. Not so obvious. Cardboard, when painted properly, can look like wood.
  11. What material are you working with? It appears wood. If so, I agree with above...use wood glue. If cardboard, contact cement is recommended because wood glue might soak in and cause it to expand. For my hanseatic cog cardboard model, I am using contact cement for planks but Elmer's white glue for structural.
  12. It would be a sad thing, on this Memorial Day weekend, to lose that WW2 veteran. The Liberty ships and Victory ships were not combat ships,but they played just as important part in winning the war.
  13. Chris, Looking good!!! Are you using wood glue or contact cement? I had the same problem with clamping bow and stern. I ended up just using the five fingered clamps. I had problems in subsequent planking (strake 4 thru 7) with the butt joints. Even when fit flush, I had to press down on the joint long after the contact glue set to ensure the ends stayed flat. Early on I get slight raises. Nothing big, but you can see if you look.

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