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Chuck Seiler

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About Chuck Seiler

  • Rank
    Grande Knave of Pizmire

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  • Location
    : San Diego area
  • Interests
    Shipmodeling, eh

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  1. What you saw were plugs, not treenails. The deck plank is countersunk then nailed into place. Next, a plug is inserted into the hole to protect the nail. Looking at treenails you see end grain. Plugs you see side grain.
  2. The smallest SYREN has is 18MM. Four for $9. If you can spot a MM difference on 2 objects not directly next to each other, you have better eyes than I.
  3. I agree. My experience with the Dremel drill press is it is wobbly...not good for fine accurate work. Vanda-Lay Industries used to make one (Dremel based drill press/mill) that was quite a bit more accurate. I'm not sure if they are still around. You are faced with a decision; stay with Plan A and it's issues or write it off as a learning experience and go with Plan B, the alternate keel. I recommend going with Plan B. Errors tend to compound as you go along. See what others suggest.
  4. I use the 7700. It is a little bulky than the 8050, but I have no problem with it. The 7300 looks to be a little less bulky. Both are 2 speed. The 7700 runs faster than the 7300 on both speeds, but I have no issue. I would also get the micro chuck.
  5. Cricket, That appears to be a Dremel drill press with some sort of X-Y table attached. If so, where did the X-Y come from?
  6. I am a big fan of Dremel cordless. I have several although not this particular model. It SAYS it gets 3.5 hours on a charge but I have found that these claims are always high. That is why I always get at least one spare battery so when battery 1 goes flat during a project, I can switch out to battery 2 without having to wait for recharge. It appears the battery for this tool is integral to the tool and it is charged as a whole unit. That would be my primary concern. Love the 'headlight'.
  7. Ryland, I see that you applied tape to the frames to help strengthen. It appears that the tape overlaps the frame edges. Am I seeing this correctly? If so, how will that affect your ability to fair the frames?
  8. I am no gun expert, but I play one on TV.... For what it's worth, attached is a shot of a swivel gun on the San Diego Maritime Museum HMS SURPRISE. It pencils out from muzzle to end of ball as 30 inches. If my math is correct, that would be .46875 inches or 11.90625 MM (roughly half inch or 12 MM). Whatever you decide, check out Syren Ship Model Company for options. I don't recall what sizes Chuck has an his 'store' is closed over the Holidays, so sizes are unavailable. Check back after the New Year.
  9. Take a look at Dubz log, page 4. He talks about an issue of plans versus templates (I think) and how following one screws up plank location. You can't miss it....he exhibits alot of ffrustration and there are pics of the planking being removed. I think this qualifies as a major 'if only'.
  10. I had thought about nailing as I go, as you are doing, but I suspect I will need to sand the hull when complete. I am concerned the 'nails' will pull out.
  11. Tree-nailing or nailing? Chuck uses simulated iron nails (or some sort of nails).
  12. Using the procedures outlined above, I proceeded to cut the lap joints for the keel. It was a little more difficult because we are dealing with angles that are not 90 degrees. I marked each piece opposite the cut so I could align the edge of the cut with the blade. Since the blade is pre-set to the proper height, I had to use the slot forward of the blade to align each piece. For 3 of the 4 cuts I set the mitre to assist with the cut. AS you can imagine, there are alot of places small errors can creep in. I decided to make my cuts a little short of the end line. That way I could correct for any errors in angle or location by cleaning it up with scalpel/sand paper/file. I was glad I did this. After a little cosmetic sanding....I am pretty happy with the resulting joints. Whadya think?
  13. JCF, Agreed, to some degree, but it would work well on a model in that you could make a bunch of these off model and just attached them to the eyebolts once the gun is installed.
  14. I don't think the gun would be stowed in that manner with the gunports open and the barrel extending beyond the bulwark. On a model it might be okay. I like it!

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