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realworkingsailor

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About realworkingsailor

  • Birthday 06/04/1978

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  1. You may wish to try rubber cement. First paint the wood with whatever weathering effects you want to show underneath (faded older paint, weathered board, dry rot etc.). Wherever you wish to show chipped paint, brush on a dab of rubber cement. Apply your top coat when the rubber cement has properly set. Finally, when the paint is dry, rub off the cement with your finger. You can finish the area off with a distressing tool (like a paint brush, but with metal bristles). Hairspray or chipping fluid won’t work as they are likely to be absorbed by the wood, where rubber cement will just clu
  2. Check who the actual seller is. I’d bet it’s a third party scammer. From the same family of clowns who scoop up concert tickets and resell them at 1000% markups. Andy
  3. How does the kit bow compare to the actual draft? (I have a framed copy, the photo was taken at a slightly oblique angle to avoid reflection in the glass) It’s a shame that the kit is such an obvious struggle (or at least requiring of extraordinary measures for just the basic construction). Maris Stella seems to have decent offerings, but I wonder if it is due to a lack of experience with designing/manufacturing/building period ship kits. I have a few other thoughts regarding the accuracy of the kit too (like the capstan shown in the “prototype” renderings. Ontario didn’t
  4. While the Niagara is considered to be a “snow-brig”, this refers more to the fact that she sets both a square main course and a trysail at the same time as a snow would. Traditionally brigs set either one sail or the other (if equipped with a crossjack), depending on the point of sail, until the early 19th century. Looking at photos of the replica Niagara, the remains of the snow mast (If any) is almost fully integrated into the main mast. By contrast in a true snow, the snow mast is set at some distance aft of the main mast. If you look at the video footage of the wreck of HMS Ontario (
  5. That’s definitely a challenge to overcome! Is it possible to make some sort of actual outer stern frame that would run from the aft bulkhead to the transom? Something similar to what Chuck has done on his Confederacy and Winchelsea models. Andy
  6. Wow... summer is... well.... over... I have been picking away at my build over the last few months. Progress has been slow, too much nice outdoor weather to be stuck inside, but on the odd rainy day there has been some advancement. The interior is now largely finished, or at least done to a point where I no longer feel the need to dive any deeper down this particular rabbit hole! The remainder of the seats went together smoothly, but painting has been a tedious process. I ended up painting the seats a neutral light green, I felt contrasted nicely with the brown "wooden" interior. I
  7. Looks pretty good. I wonder if using thin card stock to simulate caulking between the planks would have alleviated some of the error? Andy
  8. Seems to me like an excuse to find/build an appropriately scaled model (1:72?) of a Halifax and hang it with monofilament line in the correct orientation in front of the painting at the appropriate position (if only to maintain one’s sanity). Andy
  9. From my understanding, a snow would set both the trysail and main course sails under most points of sail, whereas a brig (of this period) would set the only the trysail when sailing closer to the wind and set the crossjack (If fitted) when running with the wind. (Strictly speaking of these two sails and not the remainder). The book “Legend of the Lake” by Arthur Britton Smith, includes some drawings by John McKay that may help with your rigging questions. It’s also worth checking out some of the video footage of the wreck: https://www.shipwreckworld.com/articles/shipw
  10. This is definitely a kit on my wish list. I’ve been wanting to make a model of the Ontario for a long time. For rigging, I’d be inclined to look to the TFFM series of books (specifically volume 4). Although the Ontario looks like a brig, she is, in fact, a snow. She has (had) and extra mast stepped immediately behind the main mast, as well she would have been rigged with a proper main course sail (as opposed to a cross jack sail). Looking forward to following your build! Andy
  11. I’m suddenly getting the mental image of an upset admiral and a paper shredder..... Andy
  12. Looks like you've really stepped in it this time! I'm sure you'll manage just fine, and have a good time with it too! Andy
  13. Hi Sjors! Glad to see you’re back. Good luck with the new build, you look like you’re off to a great start! Andy
  14. Thanks Kevin! (And all the “likes” too!) Yes the wait was definitely worth it! Andy
  15. The last couple of days have seen some slightly cooler (albeit no less sunny) weather. I've begun work on the seating... although... some assembly required. The Grandt Line seats are great, and although they are a D&RGW prototype (that's Denver and Rio Grande Western Railway for the non-railway types), they are about the only proper walk-over type seats out there. Most of the other available seats are the "sleepy hollow" streamliner seats of a much later era. For those unfamiliar, walkover seats could be set up to face forwards or backwards by moving (walking over) the seat back.
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