RMC

I have now finished most of the deck planking on the rear deck. My concern has been to make sure the planking from the front deck along the sides over the lower deck matched up with the planks on the rear. In the process I found my centre plank over the rear deck is a little less than 0.5 mm off centre so that adjustments had to be made.  Moreover the planks varied in width from about 2.9mm (only a few) to 3.3mm (again only a few). Most were about 3.1 +/- mm. On balance these differences  are an advantage as it is possible to adjust the overall width of planking on either side of centre by choosing planks of the appropriate width.  I used a four butt shift as my pattern of planking. After each four planks on either side of centre I checked the gap between the planking I laid from the centre of the rear deck to the planks extended from the front deck.  If there was a difference in the gaps on the two sides I adjusted the total width of the next 4 planks laid on either side of the centre.
 
The first photo shows the gap to be filled on either side.

 
Now the completed decking.  The planks on both sides fit nicely - to my profound relief.




 
Towards the rear, provision has been made for the screen bulkhead assembly.  The planking behind the screen has yet to be completed.
 

 

 

 
 
 

Well I guess it's a full stop then.

A full stop? Really?

I have finally finished the coppering to the waterline on one side. The other is within a couple of rows of being finished.  At the moment I am sick of the sight of copper plates. It has so far turned out acceptably. I have certainly learned a few things in the process.
 
Applying the plates in complete strips to the waterline worked well - enabling accurate matching of the coppering on both sides.  Once the waterline was reached, fewer and fewer could be applied at once, but the accurate placing of the strips to the waterline made it easy to accurately place the remaining plates.  In effect, they fell into place as earlier I hoped they would.
 
I used "repositionable" CA. In general it worked well.  However I would better describe it as "unpredictably repositionable". If I positioned a plate poorly, it was certain to stick instantly.  On odd occasions when pressure was applied at an angle (to close up a gap) the plate leapt off the boat landing on the floor with the inevitable result that those who have dropped buttered toast know all too well.  With experience I did get better at it - but then you would want to.
 
Here are some pictures of progress.  The plates have been roughly cleaned with lemon juice alone.
 
I found that when a plate needed to be shaped to fit the waterline,particularly when the required part of the plate was very small,  it was best to shape that last plate so that it fitted snuggly between the waterline and the lower plate but not worrying about its length.  I would test-fit the penultimate plate so that it would overlap the last plate, so providing the required length of the last plate.  I then cut off the last plate to the required length, glued it and then applied the penultimate plate.  On the odd occasions this was required cutting off the end of the plate was not noticeable (I hope).
 
 








 
Here are shots of the the coppering (finally ) to the waterline.  Aside from completing the other side, I still have to take to copper to the bottom of the keel (about 2mm). I haven't yet decided how to do it. Starting where I did - just hitting the garboard strake - seemed like a good idea at the time.










 

Rather than start coppering, I have decided to work on the masts in the time before I go away. Here is my method of 'squaring' the 12mm dowel for the main mast.
 
1. Determine the lengths of the sides of the square (in this case 8.5mm).
 
2. For the relevant part of the mast, run 2 pieces of masking tape parallel to each other and 8.5mm apart (this is a 'straight' distance (ie, a chord of the circle), not a measurement around the circumference of the circle (I use a compass to mark the distance).
 
3. Make cuts with a small saw across the curved part of the mast berween the two pieces of masking tape.

 
4. Cut out the the small 'rectangular' pieces of wood created by the saw cuts.

 
5. File the resulting rough surface smooth - the edges of which just touch  the masking tape - creating a smooth surface 8.5 mm wide.




 
 
 
6. Repeat for the other 3 sides and (surprise - at least to me) it results in a nice square section.
 



 
I have tried to show that it IS square in the following picture but it may not be all that obvious.
 

 
It came out surprisingly well, but I still lust after BE's milling machine (maybe after a new set of golf clubs).

Nothing seems to have gone smoothly on this build, though most of the wounds have been self-inflicted, though not this one.
 
The white paint for below the water line is causing problems.  The admiralty paint dries far too quickly to get a smooth result, and in taking off a piece of masking tape, the paint (four coats!) came with it.  When (if) I have a reasonably acceptable result in brushing on the paint, I will use an acrylic spray to finish.
 
I have bought some acrylic thinner and may mix it with the paint it to help prevent the drying problem.  Advice on this would be appreciated.

I have finally got around the starting a Granado log for anyone interested.  I have just finished painting my small unhappy sailor and will seat him where he belongs - photo to come.

Alan: here are a couple of photos that may help you with the 'seat of ease' issue.  My small, rather unhappy sailor needs a bit more work, but that will have to wait a little.  He does, however look better in the flesh (as it were) than the photos suggest. This week is rather busy and his final paint job will have to wait for the new year.  I hope it gives you the idea though - and what a great idea. 
 
For every one who has looked at this log, or may in the future, a happy Christmas and a happy and healthy new year.
 
In the new year I will start a Granado log for those who may be interested.
 

 

 
 
 
 
 

I have messaged Jason about the free end of the shrouds. I am getting mixed messages from different sources regarding the direction to the free end, though this may simply be a result of my confusion.
 
Below are some photos of p2 of Petersson and a snap of plan 8.  Petersson seems to show the free end of the shrouds towards the stem on both sides.  The plan shows the free end towards aft on the starboard side, while Jason suggests this is so on the port side.
 
Aaagh. I just noticed I cut off the top of the first and third pictures.
 
The inboard view (port) shows the free end of the shroud towards the stem (ie, the right side), and the outboard view (port) again towards the stem (ie, the left side).
 

 
This shows the starboard side with the free end towards the stem.
 

 

 
This is the plan.
 

 
At my age I'm confused enough.
 
 
 
 

The channels and chain plates on the right side are now almost complete.  The fore and mid channels are finished, while the stern-most will have the chain plates applied in the next day or so.
 
The lower gun port lids have been dry-fitted.
 

 

 

 
Here are  some views of the fore channel.  There is still a bit of touching up to do .

 

 

 
Here is the mid channel.

 

 

 

 
The result so far has been acceptable enough and has not been as formidable a job as I anticipated. - though there have been a couple of thrills along the way.  Perhaps I shouldn't get too far ahead of myself as the stern chain plates are still to be completed.
 
 

The lanyards are now on the potentially troublesome gun port lids and those lids are now installed.  I came across a god way of 'splicing the lanyards to the lids (I think Gil Middleton's log). Take a very fine needle and thread the line through the eyelets.  Once through thread the line through itself once, then again through the other side of the line. Then pull the needle and thread tight and the lanyards attached to the eyelet on the lid. The line is very fine indeed.  Good short vision helps, so this may not be for everybody.
 


 
Now that the lids are complete I have installed the channel brackets on the forward channel and dry fitted the channel to the model.  The brackets come perilously close to the molding, though I think they will just - only just - fit.  If the molding was 1/2mm higher it would make things a lot more comfortable.  I do have a cunning fallback plan if, when the channel is properly installed, the brackets are too close the the molding but at this stage I'll assume things will turn out well.
 
Here are the forward gun port with lanyards.

 
With the channel dry-fitted.


 

 

I have begun putting the hinges on the gun port lids. I have made a jig similar to  Arthur's to enable their consistent positioning. As well, I added a piece of strip (seen nailed below) to assist spacing of the scuttles. When they are placed in a pair of tweezers, the tweezers held against the strip provides consistent spacing for the scuttle from the top of the lid. (I hope this all makes sense.)
 

 

 
In attaching the hinges, I fitted an eyelet through the hole in the hinge (see photo above). Applied gel CA to the hinge; placed the eyelet into the hole I had drilled in the lid, then slid the hinge down onto the lid. To my pleasant surprise, it resulted in perfect positioning of the hinge, without spreading glue everywhere.
 

 
 
Here are some  of the finished articles.
 

 
 
 

 
Since taking these photos I have done some minor touching up.
 
Over a miserable, rainy and windy weekend some progress was made on the carronades. They have proved to be a little more demanding than I expected. The quality is very good, but with one disappointment. There is no eye on the barrel through which to put the breaching rope. I have glued small eyes onto the barrels in the same way as I did for the cannons.  Once the rope is passed through them, I hope it will disguise any shortcomings and the result will be acceptable.
 
 

The hammock nettings and the other bits and pieces are now finished. Here is how it all turned out.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I have dry-fitted the ship's boats, and it is a very tight fit indeed. At this stage I am not sure just how to attach them permanently.

 

 
As you can see there is very little space.  The largest boat is a little higher than the other two which just gives enough room for the two smaller boats to fit under its sides.
 

 

 

 
 
Aside from putting together the carronades - I'll do that next weekend - I'm not sure what the next step will be.
 
 

The quarter deck is finally finished. Here is a solution to what turned out to be a problem in cutting the netting material so that the holes are all in line. My first attempts at needle and thread here suggests that sewing is a much overrated hobby.  The netting was simply trimmed above the thread.
 

 
Here are the quarter deck hammock nettings complete.

 

 

 

 
The two hammock nettings still to do on the sides promise to be far more difficult.

I have received most of the replacement rope from Syren. Some of the sizes were in short supply and I will order the balance when they are available.
 
The quality looks to be excellent and it was delivered promptly. Below are some photos of some of the different sizes - light and dark brown, rather than the black and light tan of the kit.
 
When I first bought the kit about 3 years ago, for some obscure reason I hung some of the black thread over the top of a door and then forgot about it. It was in a light room, but not in direct sunlight.  It has not aged well. It is now an uneven dark tan and extremely furry.  Perhaps beeswax would solve the problem.
 
Here are the different sizes of the brown. Unfortunately the packaging tends to obscure the thread inside.

 
I hope this gives a better idea of the quality. It was taken in sunlight.

 
Here is the light tan.

 

I have finally glued the fittings to the foredeck. The cannonballs have yet to be put in to their shot garlands, but that's about it.
 

 

 

 
The middle rail has now been attached as well as the supports for the stanchions. I've assumed these to be 1x2mm strip. I can't see a measurement in the plans, so I've assumed it is the same thickness as the side railings. The quarter deck capping rails have also been glued.  Finishing the curved part at the end of the capping was a bit of a problem. I eventually used some 5 x 0.5mm scrap, put it in a mug with some water and microwaved it for a couple of minutes.  I then wrapped the softened strip around some old PVC pipe of about the right diameter and left it overnight. It turned out quite well. I also tidyed (sp?) up the vertical part under the front of the capping with the 5 x 0.5mm strip.
 

 

 

 
The wheel etc. are only dry fitted.-  just to see what they look like.
 

 

The forward and middle rails are now glued.  Before doing so I have finally glued on the cat heads - something I have been delaying as long as possible. Sticking out as they do, is a sure invitation to disaster, to which I am quite prone.
 

 
I found it is best to make the cuts in the forward railings (to provide for the guns) before they are glued to the model. Doing so makes them a bit more pliable, so that if you need to put a little more bend in the rail to fit, there is no great problem.
 
Since the following photos were taken, some minor touching up has been done.
 

 

 
.
 

 
The bowsprrit is dry-fitted here - just to see what it will look like.
 

 

 

 
 

I have been working on the forward railings and the gunports on the upper deck. I have just realised that the rear end of the side railings require an angled piece of timber to join the upper and lower parts of the rails. As well there seems to be a curved bit of timber required that butts onto the end of the lower part of the railing that covers the curved decorative molding. I can't see a part like this listed, so I guess it needs to be fabricated.
 
The forward railng is dry-fitted here and I'm not looking forward to gluing it over the curved timber to which it must be attached. It will be under a fair amount of stress.  The side railings must then be fitted to the front railing and in doing this, the corners with the protruding decoration will be an intereresting exercise .
 

 

 
 
The lower sills of the gunports required filling - I used Intergrain water-based woodfiller. (The Intergrain is far superior to others I have used.) The openings then need to be painted. As all the rest of the hull is already painted, each opening needs to be carefully masked.  For this  I used Humbrol Maskol again. It's effective but a bit fiddly to work with. So far I have only completed one side. Once both sides are painted, a couple of coats of polyurethane should finish the job.
 
The next two photos show the gap between the exterior of the hull and the inside wall. Here, for the filling, the exterior was masked by Tamiya tape.
 

 

 
The gaps filled.
 

 
The gunport openings painted awaiting two coats of poly.



 

The rudder is finished and painted. I'm not all that happy with it.  Even after spraying wiith the PS 55 it still looks too bright and obtrusive.  At least in the process I was able to repair the slight damage to the clear coat over the copper bottom. I guess all the decoration near the rudder will tend to draw the eye away from it - at least that's what I'm hoping. As I was typing this I realised  that I have some copper strip that would have been ideal.
 



 
In the meantime I have started the decoration of the side galleries.  Here there are a few mildly annoying problems.
 
1.The layout of my brass assembly differs from the plans.  As a consequence I went close to carelessly putting one of the pillars in the wrong spot. Moral: dry fit them all before gluing.
2.According to the specifications there should be 4 of Part 377. There are 3.  It doesn't matter as the length each each one is more than sufficient for the purpose with quite a lot left over (you have to cut them off) - unless there is another application that I have overlooked. 
3.There is not enough room to fit decoration 434.  If 436 is to be applied in front of the forward pillar, if it is painted yellow (as I have) it will more or less disappear from sight.  I'll think about painting it black or leaving it off altogether.
 
Here are a couple of progress photos.

 

I have now painted the area below the facia, though does not yet have a coat of polyyurethane.
 
The decorative wooden strips have been painted and attached.  These were pre-bent using my little bending machine (I don't know what else to call it) a photo of which appears earlier in this log.  The 2x1mm strip was quite splintery, and it is a good idea to coat the strip with a little thin CA first to prevent breakage.
 

Here is the facia dry-fitted

 
The following give some idea of what the facia and the decorative molding look like. I am very tempted to attach the molding to the facia as well as some of the cast decorations before putting the facia on the model.  It would make things far easier.  A potential problem is that the facia will have a slight curve when attached.  Gluing all the bits and pieces onto it without any 'give' in the glue may result in trouble.
 
Comments/suggestions welcome.
 



 
The two bits of ply poking over the top of the facia will have to be filed down flush.This, and the need to lower the facia so that the windows are obscured (others have had the same problem) suggest  the plans need revision.

I have finally finished the coppering to the waterline on one side. The other is within a couple of rows of being finished.  At the moment I am sick of the sight of copper plates. It has so far turned out acceptably. I have certainly learned a few things in the process.
 
Applying the plates in complete strips to the waterline worked well - enabling accurate matching of the coppering on both sides.  Once the waterline was reached, fewer and fewer could be applied at once, but the accurate placing of the strips to the waterline made it easy to accurately place the remaining plates.  In effect, they fell into place as earlier I hoped they would.
 
I used "repositionable" CA. In general it worked well.  However I would better describe it as "unpredictably repositionable". If I positioned a plate poorly, it was certain to stick instantly.  On odd occasions when pressure was applied at an angle (to close up a gap) the plate leapt off the boat landing on the floor with the inevitable result that those who have dropped buttered toast know all too well.  With experience I did get better at it - but then you would want to.
 
Here are some pictures of progress.  The plates have been roughly cleaned with lemon juice alone.
 
I found that when a plate needed to be shaped to fit the waterline,particularly when the required part of the plate was very small,  it was best to shape that last plate so that it fitted snuggly between the waterline and the lower plate but not worrying about its length.  I would test-fit the penultimate plate so that it would overlap the last plate, so providing the required length of the last plate.  I then cut off the last plate to the required length, glued it and then applied the penultimate plate.  On the odd occasions this was required cutting off the end of the plate was not noticeable (I hope).
 
 








 
Here are shots of the the coppering (finally ) to the waterline.  Aside from completing the other side, I still have to take to copper to the bottom of the keel (about 2mm). I haven't yet decided how to do it. Starting where I did - just hitting the garboard strake - seemed like a good idea at the time.










 

I have been painting the yellow 'stripes' for what seems like weeks.  The Humrol paints need 4 to 5 coats, sanding between coats, to give a good finish.  Each coat needs at least 24 hours to dry properly for sanding (800 - 1200 grit). I have used Humbrol maskol for the first time.  Once you get the knack (put it on quite thickly), it's very effective, though I missed some bits, so there are a few minor paint marks on the gunports. The stuff must be taken off after 3 days  - I cheated and left it on for 4 without ill effect - but given the number of coats required and the time needed, the time limit is a bit of  pain.  The following pictures I hope will give you some idea of how the stuff looks when you take it off. The painting has not yet been touched up.
 




 
I have now finished the roudhouses, painted (there's still some masking tape shown in the picture) and attached the decoration.


 
I made a mess of the gundeck stairs - put them at too steep an angle and I have one 'half' of the stairs bigger than the other. For some inexplicable reason I left them as they were when I glued them to the hatch.  Moreover I didn't make provision on the lower deck for the stanchions (I know I am not alone in that). But I did come up with a solution to all but the problem of the badly divided stairs  As you will see I tacked on two pieces of previously drilled wood to the bottom of the stairs. Fitted all the stanchions  and the rope - and so the whole assembly is complete and ready to fit whenever it is least likely to be damaged.  The picture showing it on the ship shows it dry-fitted.
 





 
Finally, for those who may be interested, here are the ship's boats that I completed some time ago.



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I have just lost  a post in the ether. I accidentally hit the right mouse button and that was that.
 
So here I go again.  I have completed putting on the waterline battens.  I used lime wood as it is flexible and, as it is light coloured, shows up any mistakes. With a few adjustments here or there it has come out quite well. As some of the curves are quite tight it was easiest to put the battens up in pieces making the joins wedge-shaped to make them unobtrusive.  The battens will be painted black later so that any minor blemishes should (I hope) disappear.
 
I have put four coats of yellow over the upper gundeck ports, sanding between each coat. It took a week as the Humbrol takes about 36 hours to dry sufficiently to sand.
 





 


 
 

I have finally completed and fitted the screen bulkhead assembly. The 'glass' turned out well.  The two pillars closest to the sides need to be trimmed a little (about 1/2mm ech ) to fit which was a bit awkward.
 
Incidentally I have found Super Glue Gel (CA) is ideal for positioning pieces of decoration. It doesn't run, and a few small drops applied by a pin gives you time to position the piece. In Australia you can get it at Bunnings (Selleys Quick Fix in a small green tube) or ZAP Gel at hobby shops.  For most other things I now use slow setting (it's still fairly quick) CA (either ZAP or Delta with the yellow labels).
 
I have now decided to paint the hull before coppering the bottom.  I will follow Arthur's method in layng the plates with the vertical nail impressions towards the stern and the horizontal impression towards the bottom.
 

 

I have finally got around to finishing the second layer of planking, the wales and the decorative strips.The next few pictures show the steps and the decorative strips. I am not all that happy with the steps.  Looking at the plan (too late) I realised the steps are superimposed on the decorative strips.  With hindsight I should have cut the strips leaving space for the steps.Here are the quarter galleries.  They need a couple more coats of matt paint.I have decided to try Kristal Klear for the windows.  The windows pictured show some in the process of drying (showing white).  Once dry, they become completely clear. It takes a bit of time to get the knack, but the results seem to be really good (so far).