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RMC

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About RMC

  • Birthday 05/27/1946

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    Sydney Australia

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  1. The main shrouds are finally finished. The process did not go smoothly and a couple had to be redone. Here are the results. I'm not especially happy with the port side, but it's OK, and later, with all sorts of other things going on, any inadequacies will be obscured. .
  2. No. I've used Syren thread. It's better quality than that supplied in the kit. Incidentally, it is easier to work with if you wet it when tying knots. The thread you see tied around the shrouds, for example, was wet - it 'behaves' (stays in place) far more easily than when dry.
  3. A start has been made in installing the deadeyes. It's a rather fiddly job. A shown, I use a piece of copper wire of the appropriate length as a jig, with a small piece of insulating off the wire to prevent the top deadeye from falling off. The two sides of the 'rope' are held by a small alligator clip. Partly finished - and finished.
  4. The lower shrouds are now attached to the main mast. I made things more difficult than I should have, but tying the shrouds on proved easier than anticipated and they turned out quite acceptably.. The photos give an idea how they were done. Once the shrouds are attached to the deadeyes and made taut, the respective loops should line up quite nicely.
  5. Unfortunately I'm thinking the same thing. As I said in my last post putting on the shrouds is going to be 'interesting'. It's a fundamental mistake, and will be difficult rectify, though I have a couple of ideas. Pity I didn't have them earlier.
  6. All of the blocks have now been attached to the main masts. I have latterly substituted Syren blocks for those in the kit, and the 'ropes' are also from Syren. Most of it has come out acceptably, though in assembling and gluing the masts before doing all of this, I have made things difficult for myself. Doing the shrouds is going to be especially interesting. I notice in the following photo one of the blocks is upside down. I have since replaced it. Before the shrouds go on, the pendants need to be attached. The instructions make no sense to me, and in any event, seem to be at odds with one of the the plans, though another plan (shown second, below) is at least partly consistent with Petersson's shown in the last photo. I shall use Petersson's method.
  7. The mizzen masts are finally assembled and glued. Aside from some very minor touching-up and the mast truck on the topgallant it's finished. Tomorrow it's the mainmasts turn. Getting the three masts straight and square is not easy and perhaps the following photos will help others. Of course it helps if there is a spare quilting mat in the house.
  8. The masts have proved to be quite difficult. Getting everything square is vital. There may be an easy way to do it, but I certainly haven't found it. Here is the main mast with wooldings. Hoops added. The yellow gizmo is a cutter used in quilting. With a straight edge it may be used to cut the cartridge paper for the woolding very finely indeed. Here is a better photo. Finally, here are the various mizzen masts dry fitted. Everything goes together well at the expense of some angst and the use of a wider-than-usual vocabulary.
  9. Slow progress I'm afraid. The masts are more or less done. The various different cross-sections are rather fiddly. In some cases (the octagonal sections for example ) it's a mystery to me just what functions they performed. Here are the masts after turning the various shapes, though the photos don't show much detail unfortunately. The octagonal cone shapes were first turned to be conical and slightly larger than the required octagon, then the cone filed down to the required shape. The top for the lower main mast is now fixed as are the bibs. There is still work to be done on it, but here is progress. The following photo shows the bibs, but more, the current chaos of my work table. I have replaced the kit's plywood mizzen driver boom saddle and the pin rail. Here is the mast, dry-fitted. It scrubs up pretty well. Whoops. I'll leave the duplicate below, just in case I screw things up further.
  10. Actually, I have just discovered that I made a rather silly mistake. Vane was trying to draw my attention to it (thanks Vane), but I didn't twig. It was only on checking before I finally glued the top on the mast that I discovered I had the trestletree the wrong way around. I had, of course, stuck everything together all too well. Getting all the bits and pieces apart was rather fraught. I shed blood in the process, and at my age every drop matters. Anyway, not too much damage was done - I'm in the process of fixing it - but it's all a bit of a pain.
  11. Yes, it is. I've shown the (er...) top and the bottom of the tops. I suggest putting the various blocks on the tops before stepping the masts. The hole you have circled is for another block that has now been mounted. I stuffed up the first attempt. Your top circle is around a bit of dust - now blown away 🙂.
  12. The various tops are now done. One thing to note: here are no rigging holes provided as there should be for the mizzen topmast top. Drilling them once the masts are stepped would be difficult. The following photo shows up every fault. In the flesh it's not too bad. I presume the parts are laser-cut, but the cuts are not really clean and it's hard to get rid of the rough centre of the ply. It shows most on the smallest of the tops and I see I will have do some touching up. The jibboom is shown dry-fitted below.
  13. After gluing the completed square section to the mast it then became obvious that this was a rather large mistake. Belatedly I realized that the only way the main top would fit was to slide it up from the bottom of the square section. The crosstrees and the trestletrees are a very snug fit around the 7x7mm square. The round section at the bottom of the mast is 8mm in diameter so no go there; the top of the square section has cleats and other bits and pieces on it so no go there either. I then discovered that I had done a really good job of gluing the damn' thing on, but it eventually it came off. Fortunately my 7x7mm was pretty accurate, but I suggest before doing anything make sure the cross- and trestletrees fit. I suggest only after the top is dry-fitted should the bibbs be fitted, then the top glued in place. Here is the completed square section. The colour shown is an artifact of the light. In the flesh it looks quite good. The second photo does not show much detail, but the colour is fairly accurate.
  14. Work has begun on the main mast. The Proxxon lathe made the tapering straightforward. The square section at the top of the mast is supposed to be a piece of 7x7mm walnut. Unfortunately it was missing from the kit. This did not make my day. Having said 'Gosh, what a nuisance' or words to that effect, I found some 8x8mm boxwood and sanded it down to the correct dimensions. Dry-fitted: The bibbs supplied in the kit are plywood of very indifferent quality. Aside from this, as I will not be staining the masts walnut, the light-coloured mast and the walnut bibbs will, I think, make a poor match. I have made up replacements which I hope will not look out of place. The top part of these will eventually be painted black.
  15. Having done most of the household things that need to be done after being away for a while, it's time to get serious again. Here are a couple of little jobs that needed to be done. First, the belaying pins did not fit in the holes provided. Here is an easy and obvious way of solving that small problem. Positioning the gammoning cleats is quite fiddly. I used narrow masking tape as a guide. The instructions suggest the bowsprit be stained walnut. I tested it on a similar piece of timber and was not happy with the result. The timber supplied for the cleats is walnut and as I didn't have any light-coloured timber of the right size I have gone with the walnut. Having seen the result I'm not too happy about that either. You can't win. I hope that with all the other things that will eventually be going on the bowsprit, the mismatch in timber colours will be overlooked.

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