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About RMC

  • Birthday 05/27/1946

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    Sydney Australia

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  1. The knightheads and the timberheads are now complete. The holes provided were, of course, too small, so out came the dentist's drill bits again. For those who in futuremay build the model, I strongly advise checking to see that all the holes can accommodate all the timberheads before all the associated bits and pieces are put on the model. Doing it in situ is not a good idea. I have also been looking at the cheeks and head rails supplied. Their quality is quite poor. I have looked at Joe's excellent work in replacing them. I certainly can't duplicate that, but have a couple of ideas that may improve on the kit. If all else fails, there is always the kit to fall back on. Here are the beginnings of the replacement lower cheeks.
  2. Here are the rough tree rails finished. The first photo shows a rail with the supports fitted (but not glued) to the holes on the capping. The supports had been fitted to the shallow holes provided in the rails. Fortunately those holes were too small. This enabled me to enlarge them using the dental drill bits so that the supports fitted into them very snugly, but allowing a little movement. They were taken out and drop of PVA was then put in the hole, and the supports reinserted. Before it sets, the PVA allows any slight adjustment necessary for the supports to fit the capping holes. The rail in the foreground is awaiting the PVA to finally dry. The rail in the background has dried and removed for painting. Incidentally it is an idea to soak the rails briefly before doing any of this so that you may easily bend it to conform with the curvature of the capping. Here both rails are complete. At this stage I will leave the barricade simply pinned rather than glued to the deck. Removing it may make for better access for rigging and it's easy to replace it.
  3. Peter: I have all of Patrick O'Brien's books and the audio books of the Aubrey/Maturin series. They're one of the great joys of reading. Progress has been a little slow of late. However the rough tree rail has now been finished and is now awaiting polyurethane to dry before finally gluing (photos to come). I have not followed the instructions. Gluing the timberheads in place first and then fitting them to the holes provided in the rail the rail is, I think, not the best way to go about it. Rather, the reverse works well, as it is far easier to glue (with PVA which allows some movement before setting) the timberheads into the small holes (in fact they were too small) provided in the rail, and then adjust and fit the timberheads into the larger holes (again, not large enough) in the capping. (More on this with the photos.) The forecastle timberheads have been painted and dry-fitted. The holed provided for them in the capping were far too small and had to be enlarged significantly. My dentist's drill bits came to the rescue again. With hindsight this could have been done far easier had the timberheads been dry-fitted before the capping had been fitted.
  4. Perhaps it was your wet feet that inspired you. Your configuration certainly works, though as you say, 3 and 4 are probably a bit tight. I don't suppose there is any record of this sort of rearrangement. It sounds a bit too sensible. On another subject: here is the delayed quarterdeck barricade construction. First, both cross-members were bent to the curvature of the deck well before construction by clamping them to the bulkhead pattern. The square supports were drilled top to bottom and copper wire inserted through the holes to locate the supports on the deck and the pillars. Similarly holes were drilled in the tops of the pillars to receive wire supports. The whole structure could then be removed and painted off the model.
  5. Euralex: I agree. The decals are terrible. They make the model look more a toy. I had thought to try painting, but given the problems I had with the Tamiya blue paint (see earlier in my log), I decided on prudence. I am quite happy with the result as it is. I have read somewhere (?) that there is an alternative treatment where timber planks are laid across the deck to make up the bulkhead rather than the painted panels. I think Rafine has done this. In any event, evidently no one really knows what the colour scheme was, so perhaps there weren't any painted pictures anyway. Peter. Good to hear from you. I agree with you too. There just isn't room for the guns as specified to properly operate. Oddly enough, I had the same thought as you regarding the pumps and wet feet. Moreover one of them impedes access to the doors in the bulkhead. But aside from that .....
  6. The quarterdeck barricade is quite a difficult little project. I was going to go through the steps to put it all together but the speed of of the file uploads was so glacial that I would be here until Christmas - so another time.
  7. Uralex. Thanks for the comment. I have been quite unhappy about the rope coils. Unfortunately it's too late to duplicate your excellent work I have no desire to rig guns again any time soon - perhaps ever. However I have redone my coils and am happier with the result. They are now far smaller and less intrusive. Photos to come.
  8. The guns are now finished. The belfry and the windlass are fitted and glued. I have dry-fitted the remaining deck furniture shown in the photos just to see how things will look. With ropes and other bits and pieces it is very crowded indeed. To me, the ship seems to be more dangerous to the crew than the enemy.
  9. The traversing tackle is now complete on one side and the other will be finished tomorrow. The result is adequate. I hope the shortcomings will be overshadowed by the various bits of deck furniture (most or all of which is finished).
  10. The traversing tackle has continued to cause problems. I hoped to rig it consistent with the AOAS depiction. That doesn't work at this scale, and my experiments with alternatives have proven underwhelming. I have now settled on a least worst solution and with luck, will finish the guns next week. I the meantime the pumps are now done, though they will not be installed until most of the other deck furniture is complete. This gives the idea - it and the other three pumps have since been touched up and look quite civilized.. In the process of touching up ....
  11. The guns are now rigged with the exception of the traversing tackle which is causing problems. Essentially the blocks supplied are too large. My intention was to hook the blocks onto the guns and to the rings mounted on eyelets on the deck - consistent with that shown in the Anatomy of a Ship. This turns out to leave very little distance between the blocks. The whole thing looks rather odd and out of scale. Fortunately the eyelets shown in the photos are dry-fitted, so I may ditch the rings and lash the blocks directly to the eyelets. I will leave the blocks on the guns attached by hooks. All of this should provide a slightly larger and more acceptable gap between the blocks, and I hope, look a little more realistic. Comments are welcome.
  12. The rigging of the guns has proven rather drawn-out. Four of the remaining eight guns have been rigged and installed, and the last four are rigged and should be installed in the next day or so. Here is progress. Rope coils are not my favorite part of the process. The thread is about as cooperative as the golf balls I hit today. The coil at the far right of the photo is positioned to avoid the stairs to the poop deck. It seemed to least impractical spot to put it. I suspect these days OH and S would have something to say about it.
  13. Things are proceeding very slowly. The stairs are finally finished and have come up well. The rigging of the guns is going very slowly indeed. The 2.5mm blocks are of variable quality, are probably a little large and I may not have enough of them. Aside from that .... Here is the first of the guns with the rigging in progress (quoin has not yet been fitted). I'm not all that pleased with it but I should be able to hide most of its faults behind other deck furniture. At least I have learnt a few things that I can apply to the remaining guns.
  14. Thanks Joe. I have found the ladders to be a bit of a pain - getting each pair to match has taken quite some time. I have used a slightly different method to yours. Once the slots for the steps were completed (slightly wider than the steps themselves), I slotted in, and glued the top and bottom steps making sure they were parallel. Once these were dry, the two intermediate steps were slotted in. They could then be easily adjusted, if necessary, to make them parallel to the top and bottom, then glued in situ. Here are the results: dry-fitted and poly urethane to come.

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