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RMC

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About RMC

  • Birthday 05/27/1946

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    Sydney Australia

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  1. Thanks Thomas. I have friends in South/North Carolina and hope you are doing well too.
  2. A delayed thank you Sam for the encouragement. Other things have intruded recently. I have now completed the wingsail gaff. I would not care to do it again. The fundamental difficulty is the lack of access, as it is surrounded by so much other rigging. I think there is a case for installing it, certainly before putting up the back stays, and even before the shrouds. Replacing the kit-supplied bibbs which are made of rather unattractive coarse grained 1.5mm ply, with 2mm timber turned out to be a lurking problem. The gaff jaws no longer fitted and then had to be adjusted. Access to the rear of the block on the top trestle tree for the 0.5mm thread proved to be very difficult indeed. I ended up threading some 0.1 mm thread through the front of the block, down to the the end of the 0.5mm thread, joining it with CA, then pulling the whole lot back through the block. As well, and VERY important, when installing the block earlier in the build, there is no indication that the thread initially leads down from the **** of the block. It therefore had to taken out of the trestletree (I found I had installed it all too well), the thread installed, and the block replaced. If you have to do all of this - good luck. Here are the results.
  3. After a few setbacks (some self-inflicted) the standing rigging is finally finished. Next time I'll build a motor boat. Here is how it looks.
  4. Thanks Captain and Thomas. We can all do with a little encouragement now.
  5. The crows feet on the main preventer stay is (are?) done. It's easy to damage things in the process and I'm relieved that it has come out quite well. I adjusted the tension of lashing as the rigging process progressed. The thread was kept taught by hanging a small alligator clip part way down the line while the end of the line was threaded through the euphroe or the top. It worked well. By the time all the lines were threaded, virtually no further adjustment to tension was needed here is how it turned out.
  6. Hi Peter Unfortunately you were right. First I replaced the 0.1mm with 0.2mm thread - didn't really make much difference - still not happy. I then went the whole hog; replaced the blocks and used 0.3mm thread. There is still the problem with the 1.14mm thread (rather than the specified 0.1mm) for the topmast stay. It looks bulky on the block, but the next thinner thread is just too thin. I'll just have to settle for happier.🙂
  7. My head's not too flash either Joe. Now if I could only remember what day it is ...🙄
  8. Hi Peter I misinterpreted your comment on the 'tackle'. The instructions specify 0.1mm thread for the 3mm blocks. I too thought that looked a bit thin once I had rigged them. I had originally thought I would go with 0.2mm, but then I looked at the instructions. That'll teach me. It still may be possible to replace the 0.1mm. I will see what can reasonably be done.
  9. Hi Peter The origins of the problem are the American dimensions of the Syren thread. The plans specify 0.75mm thread for the main top stay. In effect the Syren choices for 0.75mm thread are 0.63 or 0.88mm threads. I chose the 0.88mm. The 0.63mm is simply too thin. So if anything I have overspecified the rope. 🙂 The 0.88mm looks a bit bulky on the 3mm blocks ... but there you are.
  10. Other things have intruded on boat building recently. However here is some progress. All of the various main stays are complete and tied off, as are the mizzen, and mizzen topmast stays. They have come out reasonably well. The bowsprit shrouds and bobstays are complete and tied off. I have had some problems with some of the backstays. For a few, the Syren thread has twisted which results in the top deadeyes being at a noticeable angle to the bottom deadeyes. I can find no reason for it. All of the stays have been treated in exactly the same way. I have experimented by giving one or two the opposite twist, clamping it, then running very dilute PVA down their length. I then left them to dry overnight and the problem seems to be solved. Now for the rest. Best of luck and good health to all. In the following photo the main topmast stay has been caught underneath the collar. This has been fixed. The rigging for bowsprit shrouds and bobstays is all rather crowded.
  11. The stays, but for the main to gallant stay, are complete, but not finally tied off. If the stays are tied off as you go, it's likely that one or more will adversely affect the tautness of the stays that have already been finished. I suggest leaving them until all are complete but for the tying, then each one may be adjusted so that they do not have any effect on the others. Then all are finally tied off at the same time. I hope all of this makes sense.😊 Good luck and good health to all. The hearts turned out to be difficult. I have done it in a way that is not strictly accurate. The lashing here will be tied off to the stay. Evidently the last strand of the lashing should be seized to the penultimate one. The way I have done it prevents an outbreak of bad temper, and I hope it will not be noticed.
  12. The ratlines are finally finished. They came out quite well, but it's certainly not the most interesting thing I've ever done. The following photos shown the port main mast shrouds. Fortunately the other side looks much the same. I hope everyone remains safe and healthy at this difficult time. Best wishes, Bob
  13. Thanks mugje. The starboard side ratlines are now finally complete.

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