Meredith
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Pat, I made a few ropes tonight - using DMC perle - size 5, 8 and 12 - they are already LH threads - so first spin on the ropewalk makes them RH - and very nice too. Too late tonight to take photos - I will do some after work tomorrow. I will also measure and work out their finished sizes. Cordonet and crochet threads appear to be RH - but I will check properly tomorrow - I just looked at one and I have a few different brands. Usually any threads meant for domestic sewing machines are going to be RH - as LH thread is not suitable for sewing machines (will most likely unravel or weaken and break). So the most likely source for LH threads would be something designed to be used by hand. Out of my little stash shown in earlier posts - I will work out which is RH and which is LH threads straight from the spool.
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Great idea Larry - I might get some of those
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How to harden scale rope
Meredith replied to Geoff Matson's topic in Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
I have been tying a s-hook both ends of the rope - hand one end from a rack attached to the ceiling and then hooking the bottom s- hook through a rubber band around a weight of any sort - I have used all sorts of stuff. But in my recent clean up I came across my ingot/weights for my scuba dive belt - they are over kill for weight - but as they are a nice oblong shape - I just put a rubberband around them and slip the s-hook through. They have not proved too heavy (eg - no breaks in the ropes). For longer ropes - I do the same - but hang both ends with s-hooks through the rack at the ceiling and slip a s-hook on the half way mark near the floor and add the weight there. Its not ideal and convenient yet - but I will work on it so its easy and I dont have to set anything up to do it. If its too much fuss and I only have a few minutes spare - I wont make a rope - but if its all ready to go - I can just make a rope at a whim in the odd few minutes between other tasks/responsibilities. So other experienced rope makers - tell me... I know I read it somewhere... that if when you take your newly formed rope off the rope walk and it wants to twist back on its self and make a doubled up rope - does this mean you havent made it right? Either too tight or twisted the wrong way? -
Dave I would suspect Silk #100 should be good for what you need - used straight off the spool. You could make single strands into rope and I think it will still be narrow/fine enough. I made some rope out of silk #100 and it was too fine for me to photograph YSL sell silk #100 as do other suppliers - comes in a vast array of colours too if you dont want to mess with dyeing. I am hoping to get back to rope making in the next day or so. I have learnt so much from reading here and other peoples problems and solutions and the last few ropes I made - I am feeling confident I am now on the right track to get some lovely ropes. I just need more time in my days now... simple!!!! But I have finally got my dirty/messy building area all sorted out and I am very happy with it - not like the great workshops I have seen on here - but great for me as I have very limited places I can utilise. My "clean" room is almost done too.. just another shelving/storage unit I need to put together tonight (easy option Ikea furniture). Then is just painting a room or two and I can dedicate my "spare" time to my ships. It feels like it has been way too long since I made any sawdust.
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I just had a search a size #50 silk thread Such as Tire Silk from Superior threads is about .008 inches. The size #100 silk for YSL is much finer. Do you need anything finer than that?
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You can get very fine silk in a wide variety of colours. Even some of the hand sewing cottons can be very fine - sorry I talk in either metric or thread size - so I am not sure what it is in inches without looking it up and converting! I would imagine you couldnt require anything much finer than some heirloom sewing threads (cotton and dyes well) of about size 100... and silk would be available in a similar size.... maybe less than human hair diameter. Of course if you need something even finer - we can talk microns..silk tops, superfine merino, pashimina, alpaca, angora - both goat and rabbit (the list goes on) and is all natural and will dye very well. For instance - human hair is around 60-80 microns. Super fine merino and angora etc can be sourced at 10-20 microns (the smaller the number the finer it is).... How fine do you want :)
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Mark, A list of threads/numbers of strands etc and finished rope diameter sounds like a really good project. I might start a spreadsheet and maybe if others do one with their experiments - collated it could be a really good resource.
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All looking really good - there is hope for me yet. Still building furniture and re-arranging house/rooms and helping my son with all his furniture builds (he finally moved into his permanent apartment yesterday after the removalist brought all his new gear). As soon as the above is finished, I will get back to ships and rope making!!!!
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I think everyone is certainly coming along nicely now - it was bound to happen! Sure helps having this forum to discuss it - otherwise it could take ages on your own. Being able to benefit from other peoples trials sure is helpful. There is no stopping you now Ulises!!!
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Hi Geoff, Thanks for the photos - I am actually keeping my twist closer to the die (most of the time!) I also like the crochet threads - for really thin lines used as is is pretty good too I would think. It will dye very nicely. The Gutterman 12 cotton comes out really nicely too (no fuzzy stuff) and pretty sure the other long staple cottons will be just as good - and they have the benefit of coming in a vast array of colours - no need to dye. I will try and schedule in some ttime to make some more rope this week from some different sample threads - but I am back to work after having a month off and I am inundated with work to catch up on.!! Jim: Re holding the tension wheel - I found the last few ropes I experimented with - I held the wheel all the time - and the results were probably the best/most consistent. So if this is the correct way to do it - this could be an adition to the instructions.
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I will think of a few things for the instructions Jim...as with all things we do - we get so wrapped up in it - we forget some people (like me ) will need the kindergarten version of "how to do"... To some people something will seem dead obvious - to others - too easy to miss. For instance - the tension wheel - I think I really need to add photos - which I will do later. Instructions say to hold it till the threads engage. For me - I think this needs to be more specific - I ended up holding it so it didnt move at all - and found that to work (but this was after many failed atempts at rope making). But its not real clear - how long do you hold it - do you let it move at all?.. do you control it throughout the rope making process.. or let it go as soon as the threads engage. I think something a little bit more specific here would help people like me.
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US Brig Syren by roger
Meredith replied to roger's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I am so glad this is back - I put my Syren on hold till this returned -
Yes Pat - thought I would try some RH lay soon
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I am not admiting to my "other" or past hobbies and pastimes yet :)
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I havent tried them all yet - but if anyone would like a sample made up of anything in particular - let me know and I will try it.....
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Some more cotton ones:
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I knew we would all get there eventually Here are some photos of the threads I have... The crochet threads: They range in size from "5" to "100" (100 being finest) Bit of a mess This Rasant - a corespun polyester cotton - its not too bad as poly goes... Now onto the silks: The Gutterman is nice - thicker than the YSL and Daruma Some Gutterman cotton - 2 sizes - a 12 and a 30 (30 is smaller) King Tut Egyptian cotton - very nice:
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That about what I have been doing Geoff - so I think I am finally on the right track
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I am just making some shevles for my partners camera cupboard - as soon as I am done I will photograph the threads I have.... I am more than happy with most of them. Re Rayon - I have about 500 spools of Rayon - and no - it keeps breaking - I tried it as soon as I got the machine. Good silk will give you a stronger/better effect and doesnt break. I have about 5 different types of silk on spools (many others in hanks - but I wont bother with those) - so far no problems with the silk.
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Geoff - do you find turning it faster or slower the best - so far I have really only turned slow.
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Instead of just one strand wound on the feeder spools - I used 3 on each spool - 2 strands of silk and one strand of cotton on each spool - x 3 spools. The three strands on each spool acually twist together before they hit the die and then twist with the other spool feeds... So in fact on some types of threads - I have had better sucess with more than one strand on each feeder spool.
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I am a sewer from way back... threads is my stuff I will take some photos tomorrow (bit late now) of the different types of threads I have tried - and those yet to try.
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I think this is right... Starting from the left side .39mm rope made from silk 1.0mm rope - cotton Gutterman 12 .92mm - cotton - crochet/perle .93 - 6 strands of silk and 3 strands of cotton 1.87 - 6 strands of size 10 perle cotton 1.56 - 6 strands of size 40 perle cotton .82 - 3 strands of size 40 cotton I can get the exact brands etc - this is just a rough list - I have a whole lot more to try out. Although in person the 3 strands of cotton and 6 strands of silk is very nice.
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Forgot to add the sizes:
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Ok I have some photos....
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